Drivers Seat Broken
07-21-09, 02:45 AM
#25
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Mine too + jammed passenger seat
Drivers side left rear, about a 1" lift.
I don't think its the 2 12mm nuts though - I believe its the 12mm bolt holding the upper seat frame to the bracket attached to the floor rail with 2 12mm nuts.
Last weekend, I repaired my jamming passenger seat - motor was working but seat jammed up after only an inch of travel. Unfortunately, it was stuck in the middle position, preventing access to the bolts holding the seat to the floor. I had to disassemble the seat in place and discovered that the 12mm bolts holding the upper seat frame to the floor rails are accessible after removing the trim and lower seat cushion.
The problem with the passenger seat was a missing plastic cap on the lateral worm gear, left side. When the motor drives the worm shaft in one direction (clockwise I believe), it draws the shaft against the housing stop. When the motor direction is reversed, the shaft tries to move outward, out of its housing. The plastic cap keeps it in place.
Hope this helps someone...
Steps to remove a seat when you can't access the floor bolts (or to disassemble a seat in place):
1. Use a short phillips with a fat handle to remove the 3 screws holding the wraparound trim valance to the front underside of the seat chassis. Simply run your fingers behind the trim along the front of the seat and you will feel one on the left corner, one in the middle, and one on the right corner.
2. Use a thin slotted screwdriver to pop off the seat controls. The passenger side has two; one to move the seat forward and back, and one to tilt the upper cushion.
3. Remove the 3 screws holding the trim valance to the seat control bodies.
4. Use the handle to tilt the upper cushion back, carefully tilt the trim outward to reveal the handle shaft and pop the retaining clip off. Pull the handle off.
5. The middle trim valance will now slide right off, revealing the screws to the lower side trim valance.
6. Starting at the front and moving back, remove the 3 screws attaching the lower side trim valance to the right rail. After each screw, carefully pull back the trim to reveal the next one.
7. Slide the lower side trim valance backward out of the snapin guide that is inserted into the rear right rail.
8. Remove the two bolts holding the lower seat cushion to the right rail. (12mm)
9. Remove the front bolt holding the lower seat cushion to the left rail.
10. There is a knockout cut into the rail at the rear left position, the final lower seat bolt is inside the knockout. It is right next to the seat belt clip, tilt it back to access the hole. Since a ratchet and socket will *just* slip in between the seat and the console, you'll need to lift the right side of the seat cushion up in the air, and pull outward as you loosen the bolt. When the cushion comes free, use your fingers to pull the bolt up against the rail so that it is in the same position as when you put the wrench to it. This will allow you to remove the wrench. Pop the bolt out backwards.
11. Unclip all electrical connectors.
12. 4 12mm bolts attach the upper seat frame to the lower rail strap brackets. Remove them, then lift the upper seat out of the vehicle.
13. All that remains in the vehicle now are the left and right rails, the motor
and crossmember.
14. Remove the plastic caps that cover the white plastic worm gear housings.
15. Use a socket to manually rotate the gears. Alternate sides so that the motor shaft remains perpendicular to the rails until the floor bolts are accessible.
If there is anything blocking the rail, and you can't clear it with a pick, I couldnt see any other way to get it out other than to destroy it. Take a sawsall and slice the rail into three sections. Make one cut in front of the rear floor mount position, and one behind the front mount. Take out the middle section, then slide the remaining rail pieces apart. This will expose the 5 14mm floor bolts.
I don't think its the 2 12mm nuts though - I believe its the 12mm bolt holding the upper seat frame to the bracket attached to the floor rail with 2 12mm nuts.
Last weekend, I repaired my jamming passenger seat - motor was working but seat jammed up after only an inch of travel. Unfortunately, it was stuck in the middle position, preventing access to the bolts holding the seat to the floor. I had to disassemble the seat in place and discovered that the 12mm bolts holding the upper seat frame to the floor rails are accessible after removing the trim and lower seat cushion.
The problem with the passenger seat was a missing plastic cap on the lateral worm gear, left side. When the motor drives the worm shaft in one direction (clockwise I believe), it draws the shaft against the housing stop. When the motor direction is reversed, the shaft tries to move outward, out of its housing. The plastic cap keeps it in place.
Hope this helps someone...
Steps to remove a seat when you can't access the floor bolts (or to disassemble a seat in place):
1. Use a short phillips with a fat handle to remove the 3 screws holding the wraparound trim valance to the front underside of the seat chassis. Simply run your fingers behind the trim along the front of the seat and you will feel one on the left corner, one in the middle, and one on the right corner.
2. Use a thin slotted screwdriver to pop off the seat controls. The passenger side has two; one to move the seat forward and back, and one to tilt the upper cushion.
3. Remove the 3 screws holding the trim valance to the seat control bodies.
4. Use the handle to tilt the upper cushion back, carefully tilt the trim outward to reveal the handle shaft and pop the retaining clip off. Pull the handle off.
5. The middle trim valance will now slide right off, revealing the screws to the lower side trim valance.
6. Starting at the front and moving back, remove the 3 screws attaching the lower side trim valance to the right rail. After each screw, carefully pull back the trim to reveal the next one.
7. Slide the lower side trim valance backward out of the snapin guide that is inserted into the rear right rail.
8. Remove the two bolts holding the lower seat cushion to the right rail. (12mm)
9. Remove the front bolt holding the lower seat cushion to the left rail.
10. There is a knockout cut into the rail at the rear left position, the final lower seat bolt is inside the knockout. It is right next to the seat belt clip, tilt it back to access the hole. Since a ratchet and socket will *just* slip in between the seat and the console, you'll need to lift the right side of the seat cushion up in the air, and pull outward as you loosen the bolt. When the cushion comes free, use your fingers to pull the bolt up against the rail so that it is in the same position as when you put the wrench to it. This will allow you to remove the wrench. Pop the bolt out backwards.
11. Unclip all electrical connectors.
12. 4 12mm bolts attach the upper seat frame to the lower rail strap brackets. Remove them, then lift the upper seat out of the vehicle.
13. All that remains in the vehicle now are the left and right rails, the motor
and crossmember.
14. Remove the plastic caps that cover the white plastic worm gear housings.
15. Use a socket to manually rotate the gears. Alternate sides so that the motor shaft remains perpendicular to the rails until the floor bolts are accessible.
If there is anything blocking the rail, and you can't clear it with a pick, I couldnt see any other way to get it out other than to destroy it. Take a sawsall and slice the rail into three sections. Make one cut in front of the rear floor mount position, and one behind the front mount. Take out the middle section, then slide the remaining rail pieces apart. This will expose the 5 14mm floor bolts.
07-26-09, 10:05 AM
#28
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07-26-09, 11:16 PM
#30
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
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DIY - Drivers seat rear corner loose repair with pics
The short story - there is a swiveling bracket that bolts to underside of the seat frame on both rear corners. Most likely, the bolt has become very loose or has fallen out completely. The seat isn't "lifting up" when you push on it - it's sagging when you don't!
Notes - You *may* be able to sneak one back in without removing the seat (see image 18), I had mine disassembled so I could inspect the entire seat guts, plus, I didn't know any better at the time.
Also, the drivers side seat has some similarities to the passenger side, but its not a duplicate, and that goes beyond the added lumbar adjuster.
Step by step (pics at end of post, see later post for big versions of the pics) -
1. Move seat as far back as it will go. Remove the front floor bolt caps by inserting a thin slotted screwdriver into the little slits - give them a gentle twist. Slide them forward and off to expose the floor bolts. Remove with a 14mm.
2. Move the seat as just far enough forward to expose the rear floor bolt trim covers. One will look like the front cap - remove it the same way. The inboard cover has a snap clip on its underside. Slide your slotted screwdriver under the trim, about center and lift upward gently to pop it off. Remove all 3 bolts with the 14mm socket.
3. GENTLY pry off the seat control caps using your slotted screwdriver.
4. Use the recliner lever to allow the seat back to spring forward. Adjust the steering column as high as it will go. Lift the seat and move it backward about 6", far enough so that you can tilt the seat backward and clear the steering wheel.
5. Disconnect the electrical harness from the underside of the seat, then carefully lift the seat out of the car.
6. Access the front screw attaching the inner hinge trim piece (door side) to the wraparound trim by pushing down kinda hard on the seat cushion - it's a phillips in there - remove it.
7. Remove the rear screw attached the rear inner hinge trim piece to the wraparound trim. Also phillips.
8. Remove the 3 front wraparound trim screws. Be careful, the plastic may be brittle.
9. Remove the 2 screws holding the wraparound trim to the forward/back control body, and the 1 screw holding the trim to the recline control body.
10. This is just able the only pain in the ****. The recliner lever is held on by a C ring. You need to sneak a long slotted screwdriver between the seat and the trim from the underside to pop it off. You MAY be able to get it by going under the lever through the hole in the trim with some kind of pick or awl. Once its off, you can pull the lever right off the shaft with no resistance. (TIP*** During re-assembly, put the lever through the trim before you re-attach the trim, and slide the C ring on partway. Then slide the lever onto the shaft and use a long slotted to push the C ring the rest of the way on.)
11. Disconnect the lumbar adjustment electrical clip.
12. Remove the wraparound trim and set aside. No picture.
13. Now you can see where the swiveling bracket is SUPPOSED to be bolted to the upper seat frame. Mine was completely missing, as you can see. How a bolt that size could fall out, and the previous owner not think it important enough to hang onto is beyond me.
14. Here is the bracket, swiveled up into position.
15. I "borrowed" the 12mm bolt I needed from the crossmember that holds the radiator in place. Perfect fit. Note to self - replace radiator bolt later.
16. Here it is, bolted in place.
17. Re-assembly is the reverse - except for the part about the recliner lever C ring. BELIEVE ME - follow my tip on that one if you do pull it all apart. No picture.
18. Here it is with the wraparound trim re-installed. See how you MAY be able to do this repair without pulling apart the seat? There may be just enough room to sneak a socket up in there.
Hope this helps. I've seen both seats torn down now and would be willing to try to answer any other questions that may come up.
Notes - You *may* be able to sneak one back in without removing the seat (see image 18), I had mine disassembled so I could inspect the entire seat guts, plus, I didn't know any better at the time.
Also, the drivers side seat has some similarities to the passenger side, but its not a duplicate, and that goes beyond the added lumbar adjuster.
Step by step (pics at end of post, see later post for big versions of the pics) -
1. Move seat as far back as it will go. Remove the front floor bolt caps by inserting a thin slotted screwdriver into the little slits - give them a gentle twist. Slide them forward and off to expose the floor bolts. Remove with a 14mm.
2. Move the seat as just far enough forward to expose the rear floor bolt trim covers. One will look like the front cap - remove it the same way. The inboard cover has a snap clip on its underside. Slide your slotted screwdriver under the trim, about center and lift upward gently to pop it off. Remove all 3 bolts with the 14mm socket.
3. GENTLY pry off the seat control caps using your slotted screwdriver.
4. Use the recliner lever to allow the seat back to spring forward. Adjust the steering column as high as it will go. Lift the seat and move it backward about 6", far enough so that you can tilt the seat backward and clear the steering wheel.
5. Disconnect the electrical harness from the underside of the seat, then carefully lift the seat out of the car.
6. Access the front screw attaching the inner hinge trim piece (door side) to the wraparound trim by pushing down kinda hard on the seat cushion - it's a phillips in there - remove it.
7. Remove the rear screw attached the rear inner hinge trim piece to the wraparound trim. Also phillips.
8. Remove the 3 front wraparound trim screws. Be careful, the plastic may be brittle.
9. Remove the 2 screws holding the wraparound trim to the forward/back control body, and the 1 screw holding the trim to the recline control body.
10. This is just able the only pain in the ****. The recliner lever is held on by a C ring. You need to sneak a long slotted screwdriver between the seat and the trim from the underside to pop it off. You MAY be able to get it by going under the lever through the hole in the trim with some kind of pick or awl. Once its off, you can pull the lever right off the shaft with no resistance. (TIP*** During re-assembly, put the lever through the trim before you re-attach the trim, and slide the C ring on partway. Then slide the lever onto the shaft and use a long slotted to push the C ring the rest of the way on.)
11. Disconnect the lumbar adjustment electrical clip.
12. Remove the wraparound trim and set aside. No picture.
13. Now you can see where the swiveling bracket is SUPPOSED to be bolted to the upper seat frame. Mine was completely missing, as you can see. How a bolt that size could fall out, and the previous owner not think it important enough to hang onto is beyond me.
14. Here is the bracket, swiveled up into position.
15. I "borrowed" the 12mm bolt I needed from the crossmember that holds the radiator in place. Perfect fit. Note to self - replace radiator bolt later.
16. Here it is, bolted in place.
17. Re-assembly is the reverse - except for the part about the recliner lever C ring. BELIEVE ME - follow my tip on that one if you do pull it all apart. No picture.
18. Here it is with the wraparound trim re-installed. See how you MAY be able to do this repair without pulling apart the seat? There may be just enough room to sneak a socket up in there.
Hope this helps. I've seen both seats torn down now and would be willing to try to answer any other questions that may come up.
Last edited by skappele; 07-28-09 at 01:41 AM. Reason: LARGER pics