PERRYinLA

The original window regulator on my 92 finally gave out, and in the same place that most others have experienced- the small metal block on the cable tears through cracks in the white plastic guide assembly.

After removing it using Merxus' directions (found here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...p-by-step.html ) I took a good look at the broken plastic piece and decided to try repairing it rather than buying a new one.

Of course I boned up on the topic by reading Brian's popular fix-it thread (found here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...sc-models.html ) but I decided to go a different way.

For background on the problem, why it occurs, how it's removed from the window, what a new one costs, etc. please refer to the above two threads, which pretty much exhaust the entire subject. I'm only gonna dive into what I did that's different and why.

Here's the access hole I drilled right through the middle of the guide rail. It doesn't weaken the rail significantly, and allows you to access the rear of the assembly, where it meets the cable. This way, the guide rail does not have to be bent since the assembly need not be removed:

PERRYinLA

I bend a piece of coat-hanger wire as shown, like a long staple:

PERRYinLA

Now I drill two holes through the plastic assembly, one on either side of the cable that runs through the middle of the rail. The coat-hanger wire is passed through the access hole, surrounding the cable and into the holes drilled through the rear of the assembly:

PERRYinLA

When it protrudes out the front, I bend it in a way that locks in the cable, and clip off any excess hanger wire that might get in the way. It's important to get a good, tight bend on the wire so there's no chance of the block embedded in the cable slipping through:

PERRYinLA

For a photo of the block I am referring to, see here: https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/da...879window2.jpg

To lock in the cable securely, two wire staples are used- one above and one below the small block embedded in the cable. You can see the lower wire in the pic below. You can just barely see the rear of the wire locked around the cable. Notice I cut grooves in the plastic to allow the wire to be recessed. I also used a grinder to make sure the wire was flush with the plastic. This is needed since a slider bracket goes over the plastic in this area:

PERRYinLA

While I had the regulator out, I noticed one of the "ears" on the assembly has broken off, so I drilled a hole and inserted a sheet metal screw to better lock the assembly on the guide rail. The red plastic was from a coffee stirrer, and there's an even smaller stirrer under that one:

PERRYinLA

That's about all I did that's different. Again, refer to the other threads for more details on other aspects of this job.

I'd only recommend this to those that have time to spare and want to keep their cars a long time- I recall one post from someone that said he is on his third regulator.
I would not have done all this if I didn't think this was going to last- every one of the five holes I drilled encountered resistance, because under that white plastic is metal.
So the coat-hanger wire and sheet metal screw is now part of the metal clip.
A good deal of the remaining plastic would have to disintegrate before the cable would loosen, and we're not seeing that on most regulators.

jrtalbot

I'm new to this club, so please excuse any errors. I'd like to offer an alternative fix to the SC300 window regulator breakage problem. Is is based on the solution offered by PERRYinLA which I find to be the best so far. I have tried the JBWeld solution but found that it didnt last beyond 6 or 7 window ups and downs. In my case, the nylon carrier had two ears broken off as well as the usual breakage of the piece that holds the steel block on the wire that moves the carrier up and down. See attached picture. Because the ears were broken, it was easy to remove the carrier from the window guide. But you can get the guide off by cutting one or two ears off anyway (they will break eventually) and using the repair procedure offered here. Just cut the minimum amount off the ears to allow removal of the carrier from the guide. This will save having to bend the sides of the guide as suggested in another fix.

jrtalbot

Once the carrier is off, drill one hole either side of the place where the steel block usually resides. The size of the holes is determined by the cotter pins you will use to lock in the wire and steel block. See attached pictures. Make sure you have a small recess either side of each hole so the cotter pins can seat down in the hole and not drag on the window guide

jrtalbot

Turn the carrier over and cut some recesses in the back side for the cotter pin split sides to lay in. Dremel tools are really useful for this job.
When the holes are drilled and recesses made, you will need to drill and tap the ears for their fix. But more on later BUT DO IT NOW before putting the carrier back on the window guide.

jrtalbot

Choose two cotter pins that are long enough to go through the carrier. I sues pins about 1/8" diameter by about 1 1/2" long. Lay them on the guide with the wire between the halves of the pins and the block between the pins.

jrtalbot

Ease the carrier onto the pins, then onto one side of the guide and push it into place as shown. Its a bit tricky but perservere and it will go in nicely.

jrtalbot

Open up the halves of the cotter pine and squeeze tightly with groove joint or slip joint pliers. I didn't want to risk using a hammer here to flatten the open halves of the pins, but something is needed to squeeze them open.

jrtalbot

Then cut off the excess material from the cotter pin side. Again, Dremel is very useful. Be careful here not to cut off any of the nylon guide that slides in the steel window carrier. You can see I have marked it up a little on the upper right hand side of the diamond shaped piece.

jrtalbot

Now back to my earlier point about repairing the ears on the carrier. You will find the the carrier is basically made of steel with nylon molded onto it. The steel is quite sturdy and can be drilled and tapped for screws. I drilled two holes in the single ear side and one hole in the double ear side. Then tap each hole for #6-32 x 1/2 inch socket head cap screws. You need to make sure that the holes are drilled near enough to the top of the ears that the screws do not bind on the sides of the window guide. You will also be adding a plastic sleeve on the screw to slide on the guide. Give yourself enough clearance for this. If you mess this up (I did!) you will end up having to grind down the diameter of the part of the screw that rides on the guide. The picture shows the drilled and tapped holes in the large ear. One other thing, space the holes far enough apart that the screw heads do not interfere with each other. Its tricky and you only get one shot at it so "measure twice and drill once".