just got my 92 sc400, it has the check engine light on, the guy said he took it in to get the light checked and it was the 02 sensor (right ive heard that one before) my main question is the check engine light turns on with the trac light, is that normal?
also the light turns on most of the time, but also doesnt turn on once in a while.
So if the Check engine light is on along with the Trac light, does that mean it has something to do with trac system?

i guess ill figure out how to read the ECU on the 92 SC400 and use my 94 LS400 book to figure out the codes, the codes and the way to check the code will be the same, right?

some tips on how to read the ECU that would be great, thanx.

 

I believe Toyota cars have the same trouble code.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=43565

 

i checked the ECU, and its sub o2 sensor left bank, so ill swap it out, and hope thats it.

 

I have a 93 SC400 and had the exact same problem. The intermittent traction control light is what threw me off. Had two garages verify that the O2 sensor was the culprit. Put a new one in and everything is back to normal.

 

Are you sure it's the Sub O2 sensor? Ususally sub O2 don't fail, Main O2 is the one that fail.

I paid Main O2 OEM for $114 + tax each. I have two main on my SC400. Total ~$250
I was quote More than $350 for OEM sub O2


Recommend looking for after market O2. I believed Borsch made them. Should be ~$45 each

 

DIAG. TROUBLE CODE 25/26 FOR 93 SC400

There is a DLC1 under the hood. It’s a small black box with a cap covered located at the front left of the engine.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature
2. Connect terminal TE1 and E1 with a paper clip.
3. With a voltmeter, connect positive probe to terminal VF1, VF2 and negative probe to terminal E1 of the DLC1. Probe VF1 and E1 then VF2 and E1.
4. Warm up the oxygen sensor by running engine at 2,500 rpm for about 2 minutes.
5. Then, maintain engine at 2,500 rpm, count how many times needle of volt meter fluctuates between 0 and 5 V.
Results
Needle fluctuates 8 times OK
Continue at 0 V NG type I
Continue at 5V NG type II

Check Voltage between terminals OX1, OX2 and E1 of DLC1.

NG type I
1. Engine still at normal operating temperature.
2. Measure voltage between terminal OX1, OX2 and E1 of DLC1 when engine suddenly race to full throttle.
3. The voltage should be 0.5 V or higher at least once----OK
Need to perform this inspection within 1 sec.

NG type II

There are too much in formation to type in here. Need the whole repair manual.

There is another check for oxygen sensor

1. Start engine and warm up
2. After engine is warm up, let it idle for 3 min.
3. With A/C ON and trans. In D position (O/D ON) perform gradual acceleration within the range 1,300-1,700 rpm (centered around 1,500 rpm)
(Take care that the engine speed does not fall below 1,200 rpm when shifting. Gradually depress the accelerator pedal and kept it steady so that engine breaking does not occur.)
4. Maintain the vehicle speed at 40-50 mph (64-80 km/h)
5. keep the vehicle running for 1-2 min. after starting acceration.

HINT: If a malfunction exists, the malfunction indicator lamp will light up after approximately 60 sec. from start of acceleration.

NOTICE: If the conditions in this test are not strictly follow. Detection of malfunction will not be possible

 

Chairmnofthbord,

How much did you paid for it? Where in CA? LA, San Diego...?
How many miles on your 92 SC400?
What options do you have? Traction control, heated seats, Nakamichi...
How's the body?
Any other problems? mileage/RPM gauges lights, A/C control LCD, Door hinges, side power mirrors...

 

well i paid off the loan on a car, the guy owed $6430, so i paid it off,

it has 156K (but my LS has 135k and had NO prob, figure cant go wrong)

the body is fine,

the interior is fine

things that are wrong, power antena (havent checked it yet)
check engine light (sub 02) low coolant sensor was loose, but i accidently broke it, lower control arm bushing, ac needs to be charged, and the tach light is off. oh and the damn door handel broke on me yesterday. the car has every option, trac, leather, heated seats, nakamichi, memorie seats, auto tilt away.

im in So Cal, ontario/riverside area, thats near LA

Im doing the Tbelt, WP, pulleys, tesnioner etc. this weekend.
im good with mechanical, body, paint, so all the lil stuff isnt a
problem for me. if you want to see my last car i painted
http://www.pbase.com/xavier,
that was my last toy, i painted it, swap the engine, trans, and rearend. it ran a 13.9 @ 96.66 mph, at 14.5 psi of boost, the only mods i had done was filter, clutch and a MBC not bad for $3500. (that includes the car, engine, trans, paint, tax, lic, etc, every single penny)

i also had a 12 sec integra, so im very familiar with NOS, turbo, engine building, except trannies, never done a trans.

wooooops off topic, sorry for rambling on, just giving you guys some insite into my past, next week well talk about my family problems ha ha ha.

 

Chairmnofthbord,

I used to live near the intersection of 57/10/60. About 5 miles from Cal Poly. . Looking to move back soon. Heard that housing price went to the roof

Do you have a shop to paint the car or use your back yard?

So you can tell us what the difference between SC400 and LS400 engine. I assume the SC400 and LS400 timing belt are the same since it is the same engine? What kind of tool are you using to pull the pulley off? Is it the chain type that wrap around the pulley?

 

hey VQT, yea the homes are pretty high around here now.
as for the paint job. i used my friends paint booth, and took apart the car drove it there in peices, and shot it.. sofar the LS and SC engine is the same thing, other than the fan, my LS uses a clutch type fan, and the SC has a hydro type fan i guess you call it. to remove the crank pulley i use my impack gun. and for you that dont have an impack gun, you can put a prybar to hold the flywheel and use a breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt, pretty easy, but will take 2 people.

 

To remove the crank pulley, you can use harmonic balancer, 3-prongs puller, or heavy duty steering wheel puller. I prefer the latter.

 

I was refering to how do you hold the pulley while loosen the nut. I believed after you take the nut out, the pulley came out very easy. No need to use the three prongs puller...

 

there is a SST (special service tool) for the timming belt change, its just a wrench that has 2 rods that slide into the pulley and then you lossen the center bolt, thats the way to do it, but air tools work great. =)

 

Yes, I seen that tool shown in my repair manual. Haven't check out the price yet. As for the air tool (impact gun), you don't use anything at all to hold the pulley? Also, it is very tight space in there for the air tool. Let me know how you do it next week. I assume you'll finish the timing belt job this weekend.

 

Chairmnofthbord,

Call Steve Ganz for Lexus parts, if you don't know Steve already. Its Carson Toyota 800-908-6968 ask for Steve or Gordon.