Hey!!!
I just bought myself a 92' Sc400!!!!!
I can see that there are a lot of intake mods for the car.
This is one of the first things that i want to replace/upgrade.
i wanted to ask for your opinions on this.
which air intake kit is the best? and where could i find it the cheapest?
i saw the weapon r intake with the heat sheild, also the one at import toys, and the injen air intake... are there any others that are better?
what other modifications can i get for my SC?
I am also lookin for a new original Lexus timing belt and water pump for my car. I need to change it. I was wondering if you guys knew where to find it cheap.

Thanks !
Greg
Please reply or email me at ax568@aol.com
or you can IM me at dumdumgreg on AIM.

 

Here's a link to the BFI (Big F***in' Intake) - according to the LSOC forums, this is the best bang for the buck, intake-wise. If you are into chrome piping, forget this one. It's strictly DIY, and the total cost is - - oh, I dunno - - 5 Bucks.

http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott...IHardware.html

 

hey...
so what am i basically doing?
cutting the airbox and what?
what other options do i have? how about the change of the filter or any pipe changings??
what else can i look into?

 

The easiest thing you can do is get the MAF adapter and a cone filter, which will replace the factory box entirely. As far as performance difference you wont really feel a whole lot but it sounds great when you open up the throtle. I think you can get the whole set up from importoys for $50 or $60.

 

I second what scream says. From my research (actually the research I read by others) on that uz motor - the resonator on the stock tubing before the throttle body is beneficial to it's performance throughout the rpm range. Unless of course, you like the look.

 

933005spd is selling heat shields for the SC also, and for a great price.

 

lex, does 933005spd have a website? thanks

 

He did have a website at: http://www.mycrobyte.com/lexus/ , but since he sold his SC300 it seems like he took it down. PM me if you want his email address. His name is Peter Marozsan.

 

Watch out for the power robbing heat in the engine bay. If possible try and get a cold air box. The airbox I am putting on supposedly made a 7 rwhp difference between having the lid on or off. I will dyno mine after I install it. One thing about the 1UZ though is that the engine stays kind of hot so the car gets slower as it approaches the regular driving temp. This will be an issue if I get a stroker kit.

 

The heatshield is only one small piece away from being a cold air box. I may start working on that backing piece, but it is tough. I've made them before, and the backing is such an oddly shaped piece. I'm going to line the edges with foam too, to ensure tight seals.


BTW Hermosa, which cold air box did you buy? WR?

 

Yes, it is a WR cold airbox with the hyper intake and ram air.

 

So you remove the factory airbox,add an adaptor,K&N cone,put on a heatshield...
Why the heck not just open up the front of the factory airbox,buy a K&N panel filter,and add a small,aluminum shroud to go between the airbox and the opening in the radiator core support?

 

Try it out. I did a cost calculator saying my free time is worth $75/hr to me and anything less would be a waste for me to do it. I would rather buy the WR kit with ram air for ~$400 than spend the time under the hood. If I was going to open up a shop or sell products I would of course do it myself. If I could afford a dyno I probably would open up a shop and make plenty of Lexus mods. BTW does anyone know how much one costs? (A dyno that is)

Also I did not want to break the stock intake since I would put it back just in case some guy smoggin the car whines about it. If I sold the car I would also make it stock.

Leo mentioned the filter they use is almost as free flowing as no filter so thats sounds good to me.

 

SCV8, I've done that. I believe it's called the Peter Scott BFI setup. It works about the same as my current rig (a little bit louder though). The reason I went the other way was because the aluminum shroud was flimsy and too temporary. It created problems whenever I removed the headlight assembly. Plus it was very unsightly whenever I popped the hood. And when I did the ram air, the stock air box caught a lot of crap including a lot of water. If you make ram air Peter Scott's method, you'd eliminate that issue, but I like my ram air method so I just kept the setup I have.

 

I just got tired of having to further modify aftermarket parts after paying the big bucks,waiting(both for the parts,and on the phone).
This has happened alot with my previous cars in the last twenty years or so,and I've developed a sense of judgement around cars/mechanical systems that helps me to save time,both at work and on other projects as well.