SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

some quick help please....

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Old 04-29-02, 04:53 PM
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hellasboy
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Default some quick help please....

Ok, i'm putting in new rear rotors and i have 1 problem.. I can't get the ******* center bolt off. I'm using a torque wrench and WD-40 and so far no go. I can't believe how hard it is to remove these bolts!!! Any help (before it gets dark )?

Thanks
Nick
Old 04-29-02, 04:53 PM
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hellasboy
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maybe it might help if i added a pic
Attached Thumbnails some quick help please....-rotor.jpg  
Old 04-29-02, 05:22 PM
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ForNgoods
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damn man... i'm bout to replace my rotors too and ur not making me feel any better.
Old 04-29-02, 05:28 PM
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London Bill
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Hellasboy;

There is no need to remove the centre hub nut, the rotor will only be held by the rust around the hub, give it (rotor) a few taps with a copper mallet to loosen it up.



If there are any threaded holes in the rotor you could use a couple of bolts to force the rotor off the hub (I cant see from the photo if this is possible).

Last edited by London Bill; 04-29-02 at 05:39 PM.
Old 04-29-02, 05:47 PM
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hellasboy
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Thanks Bill,
I've given the rotor a few dozen "taps" with a rubber mallet and a regular hammer (i dont have a copper mallet) and still no go... the rust is incredibly strong. I'll keep on working on it... hopefully soon....

Nick
Old 04-29-02, 06:41 PM
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gadgetSC
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Arrow brakes

Use the threaded holes near the center with a couple bolts. It works best as bill suggested. Sounds dumb but make sure the hand brake isnt set.


gadgetSC
Old 04-29-02, 06:53 PM
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London Bill
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Hellasboy;

Although the park brake may be OFF, the wear ring on the internal drum can catch on the brake shoes, might be worth slacking off the shoe adjustment a few notches if the rotor sticks when you try to extract it from the hub.
Old 04-29-02, 08:01 PM
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hellasboy
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I'm stuck on finding a screw/nut that will fit the holes to "push" out the rusted rotor. I had enough time to check out 1 place and they only sold standard, not metric...

BUT a guy there told me that I should look around the car for a nut and just borrow that one

So I've been looking for the last 20 minutes and have not seemed to find one yet, any suggestions on where I can find a nut that would fill in these holes? (I'm guessing that the threaded section would need to be 8mm, the nut section at least 10+ mm"

Thanks again!

Last edited by hellasboy; 04-29-02 at 08:02 PM.
Old 04-29-02, 09:16 PM
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hellasboy
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Ok, i found 2 screws...
that loud metallic pop sound is great!
right now i'm at reinstalling the calipers. I've taken a lot of pics so maybe me or someone else can write an official FAQ with pics.
Old 04-29-02, 09:54 PM
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If anyone has a problem with rust in the future, buy a can of PB penetrating catalyst. It works wonders on rusty stuff, far better than WD40. When all else fails, use direct force.
Old 04-29-02, 10:25 PM
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hellasboy
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Ok, im done for the day, i might get a chance tommorow to work on it.

I got the caliper put back on and everything but now my brakes pads are always in contact with the rotor. definitely not good. any ideas on what went wrong and what i can do to fix it? (besides going somewhere to get it fixed... which i just might do but don't want to drive and jack up my new pads and rotors)
Old 04-30-02, 02:45 AM
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London Bill
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Hellasboy;

Are you sure it is the disc pads and not the park brake shoes that are holding the brake on?

It is quite common for the single rear piston to "seize" in the caliper, I guess when you push the piston in a bit it picks up crud and then sticks after applying the foot brake, these can be stripped out and re-sealed, the piston can be replaced or polished up with 1200 grade wet&dry rubbing paper using brake fluid as a lubricant as long as it does not have heavy pitting.
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