Originally Posted by FisforFast

Well, this winter I'll be storing two cars at my uncle's company's warehouse: the IS F and the new addition, the R8. While I've bought a set of winter tires for the R8, I'll only be taking it when weather permits and during those truly frigid months such as January and February, it will be in storage. Here is what you'll need:

- A can of fuel stabilizer. My personal favorite is Sta-Bil, but some use a combination of 100LL and Sta-Bil - never tried it myself.
- A full tank of gas.
- A large blue tarp.
- A good, breathable car cover.
- Some mineral wool if you're really ****.


1. You'll want to get a full tank of gas of the highest octane fuel possible. Fill it right to the top and add in your can of fuel stabilizer. I typically choose a gas station that is closest to where I am storing the car, as 5 minutes is basically all you need to get the stabilizer in all of the nooks and cranies of the fuel tank and the fuel lines. Adding fuel stabilizer will prevent condensation from forming inside the fuel tank and spoiling the fuel. Low-octane fuel typically deteriorates after 3 weeks, so this is why it is very important to add the stabilizer to a fresh tank of gas, or else it won't work.

2. Lay the tarp down flat wherever you're storing the car. The tarp will seperate your car from the pavement, as concrete is notorious for sucking up moisture. This will prevent your tires from drying out and your underbelly from rusting. It is imperative to combine the tarp with a good, breathable car cover.

3. Prior to covering your car you will want to change the oil. Moisture is your enemy when storing the car and old oil typically traps moisture inside the block and will over time cause internal components to rust. You want fresh oil in your car when it goes into storage and when it comes out of it. Some people add an additive such as Z-Max to keep the block thoroughly lubricated during the winter... but such methods are relatively unproven. Also, inflate your tires to the maximum pressure recommended by the tire's manufacturer (typically 51-60 psi).

4. Now you don't have to do this as some consider it more of a hassle than anything else, but you will want to cover any openings large enough to harbor vermins such as rodents. I typically stuff my intake and exhaust with mineral wool, which can be found at any hardware store basically. Rodents will not be able to eat through the mineral wool, as opposed to if you stuff the holes with rags like some people do. Take note of where you put the wool (I take pictures) so that you don't forget any when you start the car up every other week.

5. For those of you who are very ****, here'S a neat little trick. When I took delivery of the car I requested to keep all of the plastic that covers the interior of the car such as the seats and the dash. Every time I winterize the car I put the plastics back on in order to prevent dust from getting on the seats over the winter. The warehouse it is stored in is a partically dusty environment and I was afraid some dust could get in through the ducts.

6. Cover the car with a high quality car cover made from a material that breathes. This will prevent moisture from getting trapped between the cover and the car, preventing premature corrosion. Make sure that it is not too snug and not too loose. Give the car a wash before you cover it... it will prevent you from scratching the finish when you remove and put back on the cover when you start it.

7. You may use a battery tender or trickle charger. I personally do not. Instead, I start the car once every two weeks and allow it to come to operating temperature whilst varying the revs, never going above 3500 rpm. This typically takes 5-10 minutes at most. I typically do this with the hood open so that moisture does not get trapped inside the engine bay. I let the engine cool back down to room temp before closing the hood. If weather permits, it is best to drive the car in order to further prevents flat spots. Make sure to inflate the tires back to the recommended pressure before driving it around, though. Also, make sure to remove any mineral wool you might've stuffed in any intakes or ducts. The 5-10 minutes of running at idle typically takes care of any parasitic losses the battery might've suffered whilst the car was left unoperated. Driving the car around will also prevent the suspension from bottoming out... but today's systems are less prone to that. What you can do is rock the car back and forth a bit... this will both put the suspension system to work and keep the fuel thoroughly homogeneus.

8. When summer comes around, simply change the oil and put the pressure back to the recommended psi, and you're good to go. I typically have a full inspection done at the dealership to make sure nothing was broken or anything over the winter. It costs about $200 and is well worth it, I think.


That's pretty much it.

If you think I've forgotten something or I'm doing something wrong, feel free to comment. I've been doing this for years, with no problems whatsoever.

Originally Posted by durtysc300

I was planning on cleaning the entire underside of the car, and if I take the wheels off, I wouldn't wanna hassle with putting them back on because they salt the roads in NE, so that would deter me from driving it and risking rust