snook

iTrader: (5)

I won't need much made since I have the supra tt IC and piping, it almost goes to where the turbo will be. I know all about the cutting/welding etc...That still sounds expensive. I have a friend that would take about a day on it and charge half that at very most. It is a pain with all the bends, thats why I decided to go with stock IC which is made to fit on the car and engine bay and not a FMIC


Can you guys help me with buying the oil feed/return stuff?
Will I need the same parts no matter what turbo I go with?

I'd like to buy that now, the rest seems really simple after that's done.
Then I'd install the safc II before hand too.
I could see installing the kit in just a few hours, driving over to have the downpipe completed and being ready to go.

snook

iTrader: (5)

turbodremz any help with the above? or your list and prices?

Thank you!!

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

you will have a PM shortly

madmax98

...............

madmax98

No you don't, and most don't, especially when working on a lexus.
To help you realize that, answer a few questions:
Are you running 10's in the 1/4 mile NOW?
Do you have full control over your engine NOW?
Can you run more than 15 psi without screwing your engine NOW?
How reliable is your setup NOW? If yes, how long will it last "speculation"?
Will the car endure extreme conditions for relatively extended periods, say on a road course, for 30 minutes maybe?
Are you max'ing out your drivetrain ?
Can you put power to the ground reliably and consistently?

Please, i'm not trying to **** on your parade here so dont take it personally but if you answer yes to all these question, then your setup is far from cheap. I expect you to answer no to most of these questions.
Now, figure out what it takes to answer yes instead, and add the costs, while making sure your repairs are not going to change the answer to the other questions.
Really, it all comes down to how everyone defines fast/cheap/reliable.

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

wow, I think out of all the ignorant posts here on CL, this one tops the cake..again like a couple other members here, your judging a book by its cover by telling me that I'm wrong..and its rude


#1, you have never been in my car, nor have you seen it running and driving..is it running 10's? no, mid 13's, plenty fast enough. full control over the engine? no, partial but what does that have to do with fast, cheap and reliable?? 15 psi? no, it was never in my plan to run more than 10psi with this engine so that is completely off subject. can the car/engine/drivetrain sustain extreme conditions? yes, cause I pay attention to what the car does have done to it and I give proper attention to every aspect of the engine, and it has sustained several auto-x events. Maxing out the drivetrain? no, and dont plan on it at this point in time, but when at auto-x, yes I shift the auto trans, and I push it very hard and it has more than lived up to the abuse with zero ill effects.

BUT, and this is the POINT AT HAND since you obviously missed it the first 3 times I posted it..

Am I running boost that has shown gains of over 80+rwhp? Yes

Have I shaved atleast 2 seconds in the quarter mile and spent less than $3k? Yes

Is the car DD, with enough power to brake traction with the stock auto trans in first and second gear, and sustain constant driving at 70-80mph with no overheating, transmission slips, or engine failures? yes, oh and I'm still getting 19c/24h mpg.

are you hating on me personally because I contradicted your post that you cant have cheap, reliable and fast in 1 vehicle? Even a Lexus? I most certainly think so. My car has been na-t for over 1k miles now, and TOTAL cost of the kit was less than $2k that includes the turbo, electronics, gauges, nuts and bolts, gaskets ect..even 2 manifolds cause the first one purchased was not the correct one, but I used it for something else.

and as you stated, everyones point of view on cheap, reliable and fast is different, so you already contradicted yourself...so that there gives you no right to tell me I dont have all 3..have you seen or ridden in my SC? no. did you pay for the parts that went into it? no. do you do my oil changes or other maintinance? no, and I wouldnt let you.

going from a high 15 sec 1/4 to low 13's is fast for most of us.
turbocharged for less than $2k is cheap to most of us
Reliable in the fact that it hasnt blow a HG, broke down, overheated, or any other problems or issues and is used on a DAILY basis, and has see some track time.

so if your not trying to offend or **** on anybody, dont think you know something about their car or what has been accomplished with it by judging it where you have obviously failed...you can have fast, cheap and reliable, its called building with common sense and a purpose..

find a way to prove me wrong about having all 3..or better yet, go ask any member if they think spending less than $2k for 300rwhp including fuel control and gauges to run mid to low 13's in the quarter and still beable to use the car on a daily basis with nothing to worry about, if that would fit in the fast, cheap and reliable category?

snook

iTrader: (5)

my post asked for cheap, so it's not going to be a greddy kit and beefed up engine and drivetrain. I want a proven cheap setup I can pick up some power from, any decent reliable gains are fine, lets not argue here. If you dont like it, you dont have to do it to your car

tuterz

iTrader: (11)

i would be very happy to have a build like turbodremz.. to me.. that is fast.. enough.. and very cheap to cut over 2 seconds off the quarter.. and drive it daily is reliable..

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

Thank you tuterz.


not trying to ruin your thread, just dont like it when people try to contradict what I have already accomplished..

so stick to my advise..take your time and shop around until you find the best possible deal, but dont cut yourself short on quality..even if you decide not to rebuild and source another low mileage GE, piece your won kit together.

Manifold- $200 shipped
WG- $200-250
Bov-$200
fmic with pipes-$200
oil lines-$70-100
Wideband-$200 shipped
boost gauge-$30
safc2-$150-200
fuel pump-$100
various nuts and bolts-$30-50

done....@9psi with stock compression in theory you should be making High 290-low300 rwhp and be mid 13's..with whats listed above thats about $1600, and thats average prices of the parts NEW..find some of the less vital parts (fmic, pipes, safc, gauges, manifold, etc) used and you save a ton of money..but dont skimp on the turbo, WG or BOV, or the wideband.

If you need help sourcing parts let me know. I have several accounts on atleast 10 different car related forums, and am always browsing classifieds, so finding deals on parts isnt hard for me at all.

madmax98

Sir, what's rude is how you responded to simple discussion as a total hick

#1, you have never been in my car, nor have you seen it running and driving..is it running 10's? no, mid 13's, plenty fast enough. full control over the engine? no, partial but what does that have to do with fast, cheap and reliable?? 15 psi? no, it was never in my plan to run more than 10psi with this engine so that is completely off subject. can the car/engine/drivetrain sustain extreme conditions? yes, cause I pay attention to what the car does have done to it and I give proper attention to every aspect of the engine, and it has sustained several auto-x events. Maxing out the drivetrain? no, and dont plan on it at this point in time, but when at auto-x, yes I shift the auto trans, and I push it very hard and it has more than lived up to the abuse with zero ill effects.


I never claimed i know your car nor have i judged a book from a cover. I simply asked you a few question and predicted your answers too. 13's isn't fast to me or many people, especially in a turbo sports car, but then again i stated that it comes down to what somebody like you considers fast. like i thought, you're only running 10 psi, no wonder it's cheap. things get expensive really quick when you actually boost a 2J over 1 bar. Of course you're not max'ing out your drivetrain with 10 psi! Oh, i can't find #2, did you miss that?

BUT, and this is the POINT AT HAND since you obviously missed it the first 3 times I posted it..
Am I running boost that has shown gains of over 80+rwhp? Yes
Have I shaved atleast 2 seconds in the quarter mile and spent less than $3k? Yes

I didn't miss any point, i simply argued your claim of being fast, cheap and reliable. Granted it's cheap, maybe reliable, but certainly not fast.



are you hating on me personally because I contradicted your post that you cant have cheap, reliable and fast in 1 vehicle? Even a Lexus? I most certainly think so.

Are you dilusional for thinking i'm "hating on you"? BTW, i wasn't the one who had the fast-cheap-reliable post! Still, you didn't "contradict" it because you're lacking in at least one category! And i didn't say "even a lexus" i used the word "especially", they're different but i'm sure you knew that!!!

and as you stated, everyones point of view on cheap, reliable and fast is different, so you already contradicted yourself...so that there gives you no right to tell me I dont have all 3..have you seen or ridden in my SC? no. did you pay for the parts that went into it? no. do you do my oil changes or other maintinance? no, and I wouldnt let you.

I didn't contradict myself, i was trying to be diplomatic about saying you think you're car is fast. What does maintenance, buying parts and oil changes have to do with me arguing your misleading claim????


find a way to prove me wrong about having all 3..or better yet, go ask any member if they think spending less than $2k for 300rwhp including fuel control and gauges to run mid to low 13's in the quarter and still beable to use the car on a daily basis with nothing to worry about, if that would fit in the fast, cheap and reliable category?:sad
:
It's cool that you spent only 2 grand on the project man, seriously. It's just that your claim is lacking in one category at the least

madmax98

That's cool, would you be even happier if you drive a 10-11second street car instead?

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

were all entitled to our opinions, but still does not give you the right to tell me that I have not accomplished what I already have..and where is my "claim" lacking? 13's is fast for an auto SC IMO especially considering the long block itself is pure stock, full interior with a full system, spare tire and a 100lb box in the trunk..oh but thats right, were abiding to your opinions on whats fast..

So I take it your daily driven na-t sc300 is running 10's and has zero issues, even when driven during the winter? and cost you less than $2k to build?

so according to your opinion for a car to be fast, cheap and reliable it has to do the following:

Run atleast 15psi(which your not doing) and be in the 10sec 1/4 bracket and have absolutely zero issues with sustained driving in hard conditions, but yet cost less than oh lets say $5k worth of work/parts? I think you POV on this matter is far fetched, thats why you dont think anyone can have all 3.

but saying peoples opinions will vary on whats fast/cheap/reliable, then telling someone their car isnt fast cause it only runs 13's and not 10's is pretty hick..if your sc was bone stock, and you got your *** handed to you by another sc that runs 13's, I'm sure you would think differently..especially if they told you it only cost $2k to accomplish.

now quit ruining the mans thread, and the forums with your single sided democratic opinions.

to the OP, sorry for the BS in your thread, just trying to make a point, but seems 13's arent "fast" around here.

CP_Ree

iTrader: (1)

"Fast" is such a broad word. What I like to use is "quick".

See, for me, I've owned quick-er cars(4-600whp 2800lb cars), but never a really fast car. I've gone 0-160mph before in about 14? seconds but I don't consider that "fast".

I don't think there should be a debate on what 'fast' really means. Everyone has their own opinion. If 13 sec 1/4 miles are fast to you, that's cool. 9 sec quarter miles are pretty 'fast' to me, ya know?

Everyone needs to chill, the OP just wanted advice on what he could do for a setup. I've PMd him with what I'm personally doing and it's gonna be slow as ***** to me on 10 psi.

ishootstuf

iTrader: (1)

Here's a quick tip for saving money. For feed and return lines, just use copper. With fittings and tube, should be $20 for both and they will never rot, collapse, or blow.

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't be cheap on the oil feed line; but I can be cheap on the return line by using high temp braided silicone hose that's rated for 300 degree. You can also use high temp industrial hose.

From my stand point, an economic way to boost the SC is to stay below 9 psi and it can be done for under $2K, given that you don't use brand name parts or expensive parts. An example would be the exhaust flange. A generic triangle flange can be priced at $3 while the V-band can be priced at $30.