Cheapest Working Turbo Setups ?
12-27-09, 02:42 PM
#31
I have been running a copper feed line on my daily driven boosted SC300 for well over a year now. Copper has no trouble handling the heat and pressure and will not rot. It just takes a little more time to bend and route, but still easy. Also nice to be able to go to your local hardware store for the parts.
12-27-09, 04:29 PM
#32
were all entitled to our opinions, but still does not give you the right to tell me that I have not accomplished what I already have..and where is my "claim" lacking? 13's is fast for an auto SC IMO especially considering the long block itself is pure stock, full interior with a full system, spare tire and a 100lb box in the trunk..oh but thats right, were abiding to your opinions on whats fast..
So I take it your daily driven na-t sc300 is running 10's and has zero issues, even when driven during the winter? and cost you less than $2k to build?
so according to your opinion for a car to be fast, cheap and reliable it has to do the following:
Run atleast 15psi(which your not doing) and be in the 10sec 1/4 bracket and have absolutely zero issues with sustained driving in hard conditions, but yet cost less than oh lets say $5k worth of work/parts? I think you POV on this matter is far fetched, thats why you dont think anyone can have all 3.
but saying peoples opinions will vary on whats fast/cheap/reliable, then telling someone their car isnt fast cause it only runs 13's and not 10's is pretty hick..if your sc was bone stock, and you got your *** handed to you by another sc that runs 13's, I'm sure you would think differently..especially if they told you it only cost $2k to accomplish.
now quit ruining the mans thread, and the forums with your single sided democratic opinions.
to the OP, sorry for the BS in your thread, just trying to make a point, but seems 13's arent "fast" around here.
So I take it your daily driven na-t sc300 is running 10's and has zero issues, even when driven during the winter? and cost you less than $2k to build?
so according to your opinion for a car to be fast, cheap and reliable it has to do the following:
Run atleast 15psi(which your not doing) and be in the 10sec 1/4 bracket and have absolutely zero issues with sustained driving in hard conditions, but yet cost less than oh lets say $5k worth of work/parts? I think you POV on this matter is far fetched, thats why you dont think anyone can have all 3.
but saying peoples opinions will vary on whats fast/cheap/reliable, then telling someone their car isnt fast cause it only runs 13's and not 10's is pretty hick..if your sc was bone stock, and you got your *** handed to you by another sc that runs 13's, I'm sure you would think differently..especially if they told you it only cost $2k to accomplish.
now quit ruining the mans thread, and the forums with your single sided democratic opinions.
to the OP, sorry for the BS in your thread, just trying to make a point, but seems 13's arent "fast" around here.
I am entitled to my own opinion, thus i'm gonna tell it as i see it. If your car a slow POS, i'm going to tell it loud and clear. Sorry if that's something you wouldn't like to hear, but it is what it is. 13 second is far from fast in 2009, maybe fast in the late 80's/early 90's. Hell, a 4 door family sedan can do 13's all motor
My car isn't pushing more than 12 psi at the moment, but that's only because the wastegate diaphram blew on the dyno, so we only tuned it to 12 psi. But, all i need now is to go back to the dyno and push 600+ whp, and i don't have to change a thing. can you say the same thing? NO, because you dont have injectors / fuel control / fuel supply / ignition control or even a transmission to support the power level 
By the way, on 12 psi i'm pushing 367 whp, so by your standards it's super fast 
but i admit it wasn't cheap, a quick look at my sig will give you an idea. But that's because everything was thought through. If you have more comments or questions, feel free to PM me 
.To the OP, i apologize for having to argue an obvious point here. But, the only advice i have is to stay away from cheap if you are going to take the time to build a car fast enough not to be beaten by family sedans and crossovers. Wait longer if you have to, save more money, then buy proven parts which give some headroom. That way, when you decide to change ur setup, you dont have to take your whole engine apart, and paying for stuff that you could have bought from the beginning. at the very least, buy an engine management device that actually controls ignition. You have the FIC, Emanage ultimate and few others. Try going on Clubnat.com, they are more boost oriented than the average joe here, and trust you'll hear the samethings i've been saying here. GL.
12-27-09, 05:55 PM
#33
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Seriously,
If it was a fact based argument then yea, but all these opinions flying everywhere is just ridiculous.
You are being butt hurt as well because someone else has a different opinion. I hope turbodreamz doesn't respond to your vent so this baseless argument can die in a fire.
To the op about oil lines. Ill just state what I did.
I bought a stainless steel inner teflon lined brake line by aeroquip. -4 AN for me, but they also have -3 AN as well as various elbows if you need them.
Here is an example of a -3 AN 26" straight for about 20 bucks total.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/26-3a...Q5fCarQ5fParts
For the return line I just copped out the 30 some odd dollars for a custom braided steel teflon lined hose from my local ...uh custom hose store.
BUT there were headaches on the way such as the oil return line being too long and, with the line being a -10AN, was hesitant to bend.
In total I saved about 80 bucks compared to the 180 it cost from boostlogic to purchase their line kit, and that's the cheapest "quality" kit I could find.
Trying to have a cheap kit without skimping is very hard and will take quite a while to piece together. Just keep at it.
If it was a fact based argument then yea, but all these opinions flying everywhere is just ridiculous.
You are being butt hurt as well because someone else has a different opinion. I hope turbodreamz doesn't respond to your vent so this baseless argument can die in a fire.
To the op about oil lines. Ill just state what I did.
I bought a stainless steel inner teflon lined brake line by aeroquip. -4 AN for me, but they also have -3 AN as well as various elbows if you need them.
Here is an example of a -3 AN 26" straight for about 20 bucks total.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/26-3a...Q5fCarQ5fParts
For the return line I just copped out the 30 some odd dollars for a custom braided steel teflon lined hose from my local ...uh custom hose store.
BUT there were headaches on the way such as the oil return line being too long and, with the line being a -10AN, was hesitant to bend.
In total I saved about 80 bucks compared to the 180 it cost from boostlogic to purchase their line kit, and that's the cheapest "quality" kit I could find.
Trying to have a cheap kit without skimping is very hard and will take quite a while to piece together. Just keep at it.
12-27-09, 09:55 PM
#34
Seriously,
If it was a fact based argument then yea, but all these opinions flying everywhere is just ridiculous.
You are being butt hurt as well because someone else has a different opinion. I hope turbodreamz doesn't respond to your vent so this baseless argument can die in a fire.
To the op about oil lines. Ill just state what I did.
I bought a stainless steel inner teflon lined brake line by aeroquip. -4 AN for me, but they also have -3 AN as well as various elbows if you need them.
Here is an example of a -3 AN 26" straight for about 20 bucks total.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/26-3a...Q5fCarQ5fParts
For the return line I just copped out the 30 some odd dollars for a custom braided steel teflon lined hose from my local ...uh custom hose store.
BUT there were headaches on the way such as the oil return line being too long and, with the line being a -10AN, was hesitant to bend.
In total I saved about 80 bucks compared to the 180 it cost from boostlogic to purchase their line kit, and that's the cheapest "quality" kit I could find.
Trying to have a cheap kit without skimping is very hard and will take quite a while to piece together. Just keep at it.
If it was a fact based argument then yea, but all these opinions flying everywhere is just ridiculous.
You are being butt hurt as well because someone else has a different opinion. I hope turbodreamz doesn't respond to your vent so this baseless argument can die in a fire.
To the op about oil lines. Ill just state what I did.
I bought a stainless steel inner teflon lined brake line by aeroquip. -4 AN for me, but they also have -3 AN as well as various elbows if you need them.
Here is an example of a -3 AN 26" straight for about 20 bucks total.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/26-3a...Q5fCarQ5fParts
For the return line I just copped out the 30 some odd dollars for a custom braided steel teflon lined hose from my local ...uh custom hose store.
BUT there were headaches on the way such as the oil return line being too long and, with the line being a -10AN, was hesitant to bend.
In total I saved about 80 bucks compared to the 180 it cost from boostlogic to purchase their line kit, and that's the cheapest "quality" kit I could find.
Trying to have a cheap kit without skimping is very hard and will take quite a while to piece together. Just keep at it.
Nope no reply, cause I laugh in the face of ignorance..especially when someone is preaching about reliability then admits to their wg failing.
to the OP, hope all goes well..
12-29-09, 01:11 AM
#37
Lexus Champion
I just finished reading this whole thread cuz I to wanna boost my SC300.just listen to yourself.what makes you happy?and what you want to build?a 1/4 mile setup.mile run setup.street car setup.highway setup.do you homework.you can go cheap if you want.but don't go cheap on the turbo,wastegate,and enigne management.those three thing are very important to keep you from blowing up.and don't forget our cars are heavy.so low psi,hp is not good for us.cuz and Honda on low boost will smoke us.I know you not trying to run 9's or after 1000hp.I'm not either.you just wanna an extra kick.but build so you can have room to upgrade later.
12-29-09, 08:10 AM
#38
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Do what makes u think is Fast/Cheap/Reliable=P
I dont think 13s are fast cars either.. but i do think $2k for a 13s car is worth it.
just watch your drivetrain thats the only thing that may be a problem "IF" it fails, but at low boost you might not have any issues.
12-29-09, 09:10 AM
#39
Lol look what i started... sorry to the OP
Do what makes u think is Fast/Cheap/Reliable=P
I dont think 13s are fast cars either.. but i do think $2k for a 13s car is worth it.
just watch your drivetrain thats the only thing that may be a problem "IF" it fails, but at low boost you might not have any issues.
Do what makes u think is Fast/Cheap/Reliable=P
I dont think 13s are fast cars either.. but i do think $2k for a 13s car is worth it.
just watch your drivetrain thats the only thing that may be a problem "IF" it fails, but at low boost you might not have any issues.
j/kI know 13's arent FAST, but compared to stock, especially with a 4400lb car, its not bad..but I know there is more, thats why my car is down till mid 2010..waiting for new parts/trans/and other goodies..and at that time, cheap is going right out the window..
12-29-09, 10:03 AM
#40
In response to the little feud here.
I spent under $2000 on my Escort ZX2 build. The car itself cost me $2000.
Is it fast? I ran in the 13's. Untuned mind you so it wasn't at peak performance.
Is it reliable? I drove it daily and the engine was stock with close to 200k on it. It drove fine
Cost... As said, Under 2000.
Having my little escort run in the 13's I'd like to see my lexus make it to the 11's or low 12's. my turbo build wasn't anything pretty, but it got the job done. Turbodremz, Do you have any pictures of your engine bay? I'd love to see your setup.
To the OP. Ebay isn't always bad. As long as you get a good turbo, wastegate, and BOV, you're set. By good I mean, the turbo isn't going to have shaft play. The wastegate will open fast and reliably. Lastly, the BOV will get the pressure out well enough to avoid compressor surge.
Piping is Piping and you will be good with a generic ebay kit and couplers. No real need to weld them if you are running minimum boost. Also, an ebay manifold will work just fine.
I spent under $2000 on my Escort ZX2 build. The car itself cost me $2000.
Is it fast? I ran in the 13's. Untuned mind you so it wasn't at peak performance.
Is it reliable? I drove it daily and the engine was stock with close to 200k on it. It drove fine
Cost... As said, Under 2000.
Having my little escort run in the 13's I'd like to see my lexus make it to the 11's or low 12's. my turbo build wasn't anything pretty, but it got the job done. Turbodremz, Do you have any pictures of your engine bay? I'd love to see your setup.
To the OP. Ebay isn't always bad. As long as you get a good turbo, wastegate, and BOV, you're set. By good I mean, the turbo isn't going to have shaft play. The wastegate will open fast and reliably. Lastly, the BOV will get the pressure out well enough to avoid compressor surge.
Piping is Piping and you will be good with a generic ebay kit and couplers. No real need to weld them if you are running minimum boost. Also, an ebay manifold will work just fine.
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