House style Diagnosis- SC400 random stalling
05-16-10, 02:11 PM
#16
Updated with new information for today. I have a spare fuel pump that I'm debating if I should install as I'm not really convinced that's the problem with getting the car to run today. BTW after the car idled for only 60 seconds nothing was warm except for the Main EFI relay, likely on its way to getting smoking hot
06-08-10, 10:15 PM
#19
Threw a new MAF in it over the weekend just in case- no change. Interesting new symptom I've noted- if I hold the throttle to where it should stay around 1800 RPM the engine will cycle between 1000-2000RPM while keeping the pedal in the exact same position.
07-26-10, 09:05 PM
#20
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Did you ever figure this out? Same thing for me. Only symptom prior was a somewhat random hesitation while cruising. It went away, then last Saturday the car died and I coasted to the side of the road.
Same as OP it will start, go to about 500 RPM, then die immediately. Always starts, but always dies immediately. Did the 12V fuel pump bypass--no change.
Same as OP it will start, go to about 500 RPM, then die immediately. Always starts, but always dies immediately. Did the 12V fuel pump bypass--no change.
08-19-10, 10:26 AM
#21
Knowing that this thread will come up for anybody searching "SC400 stalling" I wanted to update the solution.
First thing is first- PULL YOUR CODES. The only way you're going to figure this is out is to pull your codes. Now, a couple things to know
If your car runs great then suddenly cuts it is not a MAF issue. MAFs can cause it to run like **** an eventually stall but it is not an on-off switch. Try running your car with the MAF unplugged and you'll see. But a dead MAF will not cause this problem
Also is just the ENGINE stalling or everything else in the car?
If it's is just the engine stalling, check if you have ignition codes
I had code 15, which is for the passenger side ignition components and the top igniter in your igniter pack. I finally replaced my coil packs and car is now running perfectly. Although the coil tested fine when I tested it, at some point it was shorting and killing the car throwing a code. The previous owner put some bull**** "made in china" coil packs on and one of them failed after only 6000 miles. I put on a denso one and it's good to go. I didn't bother replacing the coils because I knew they were recently replaced and tested okay. But this was wrong. If you have this problem, first replace your coils with working coils from a yard. If this doesn't fix it, return the coils. Then try your igniters. One of those will likely have failed.
Good luck to anybody else trying this.
First thing is first- PULL YOUR CODES. The only way you're going to figure this is out is to pull your codes. Now, a couple things to know
If your car runs great then suddenly cuts it is not a MAF issue. MAFs can cause it to run like **** an eventually stall but it is not an on-off switch. Try running your car with the MAF unplugged and you'll see. But a dead MAF will not cause this problem
Also is just the ENGINE stalling or everything else in the car?
If it's is just the engine stalling, check if you have ignition codes
I had code 15, which is for the passenger side ignition components and the top igniter in your igniter pack. I finally replaced my coil packs and car is now running perfectly. Although the coil tested fine when I tested it, at some point it was shorting and killing the car throwing a code. The previous owner put some bull**** "made in china" coil packs on and one of them failed after only 6000 miles. I put on a denso one and it's good to go. I didn't bother replacing the coils because I knew they were recently replaced and tested okay. But this was wrong. If you have this problem, first replace your coils with working coils from a yard. If this doesn't fix it, return the coils. Then try your igniters. One of those will likely have failed.
Good luck to anybody else trying this.
. Appreciate it though!
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