anhtuan904

I dont have updated pics on the two door panals but im sure you can picture what a fixed saggy panal and a new door handle looks like... but again... these two little things that only costed me about 35 bucks(the door handle was 35) would have gave the seller a better chance on the sale.

DILDOMATIC!! haha check it out...

All tore up!! BUT! for anyone on a small budget, and does not want to look like a scrub!... tear the leather off and it will look like this!...

anhtuan904

a few other interior shots of interior(mostly the either broke, cracked, or torn pieces...
Heard this was common... Middle vent is cracked... if anyone has one for sale or just wanna give me one haha PM me


backseat backrests... still good!


dirty panal carpet...

looks like that on both sides... but its an easy fix up.... havent got to it yet

steering wheel is still decent.... i have a cover on it now so you dont even notice the wear around the wheel... and the airbag cover is still pretty mint.

anhtuan904

The woodgrain is all faded and cracked... dont really have good pics of em but i plan to paint them...

Heres a gift from my girl... wasn't really trrying to get exhaust yet but hey... its a gift!


25 bucks a piece lol not bad and they dont sound bad at all!
INSTALLED:


Heres some shot of the weld job below...


Costed 50 buck a muffler... Seemed like a good deal but come to find out my boy welds mufflers and said he will hook me up free 99 next time.

THE CULPRIT!!! haha thats what the muffler tech guy told me about this cat...

Yes i do see the oil there and yes seals and gaskets are being replaced soon...

Heres the test pipe that replaced the cat...

anhtuan904

all together...
mufflers 50 bucks for two
total weld and cat delete was 150
total $200

anhtuan904

i currently have my exhaust off from the cats back because im replacing my driveshaft im going to take pics and post those soon... looks pretty kool off of the car...

BostonSC4

iTrader: (2)

This car is coming along beautifully!!! Great work!

anhtuan904

Thanks man! very much apprieciated

P.R.S.22

iTrader: (6)

Looking good there!!! Glad your doing alot of maintenance first then adding the mods as you go along. What part of florida are you in??? If your in Tampa or Orlando let me know and I can help you out with the interior alot since I've taken mine apart like a million times now. Also if your in tampa I know a guy who can redo your enterior in whatever color you want for a real good price or just pieces at a time. Let me know and keep it up.

anhtuan904

Thanks! Man! i use to live in tampa or actually a little outside of tampa in hillsborough county. i currently live in jacksonville which is a good couple hours even to orlando. I do have family members in tampa and orlando. Does this guy have a shop or something i could maybe drop in sometime? not plannin on going down anytime soon but i would really like to keep that in mind

anhtuan904

Heres a few shots of the old rack n pinion i had to replace... it leaked real bad one day coming home from work and this is what it looked like...



First thing i did was MEASURE or put placement marks on the tierods(where the inner and outter meet) and steering shaft(where it connects to the pinion) and then disconnect the tie rods(this is what i chose to start on first but i believe it can be tackled in a different order. I bought this certain tool but i cant remember what it was called... It helps ALOT when removing ball joints...


And you just connect it to your ratchet and it even pops the ball outta the joint with ease.


Now i took pics of the tie rods threads to remember where the bolts were. you should still get an allignment afterward but you should always remember to measure it some how.


No heres where i worked it around the ball joint which took me a couple minutes because a bought the bigger sized ball joint tool so i could also use it on a truck as well... but the had a smaller one for cheaper i believe.



Your rotor will swing loose so you may want to have a hand on it while popping out the ball

P.R.S.22

iTrader: (6)

Yea this guy does have a place where he works on customers cars. If your every back in the Tampa area just send me a pm and I will hook you up with the information to get in contact with him. And also if your every in the Orlando area just let me know and if I around I may be able to help you with any problem you may have if I can be of any help Good luck and can't wait to see the progress on your ride.

anhtuan904

Ok sorry took a few days off the forum although i am not finish. Now befor i continue i felt i should tell everyone... THESE WRITE UPS ARE NOT DIY!! although you could use this to assist you I WOULD RECOMMEND LOOKING UP A DIY BEFORE YOU USE MY WRITE UP. THIS WRITE UP IS EXACTLY WHAT MY TOPIC STATED... MY EXPERIENCE WITH MY SC. now back to the rack and pinion...

Here is a picture of the rack and pinion out to get a glimpse of what i am pulling out....


after disconnecting the ball joints i went ahead and disconnected everything except the brackets holding the rack. and there really isnt many things to disconnect but getting to them is the hard part and maybe the hardest. there were these two bolts to disconnect that holds the return and pressure lines....

These bolts have gaskets so make sure you replace the gaskets as they are not reusable

anhtuan904

Heres a shot of ONE! gasket... at first i thought hey these two gaskets still look good... wrong, it is one gasket which broke.


next i disconnected the steering shaft BUT befor i did this i made sure my steering wheel was secured and cannot move. There is a pretty hard bolt to get to to disconnect the steering shaft but if you look under you driverside wheel well you will see a hole made just so you can get to the bolt. and if your steering wheel is pointing straight ahead like its supposed to it will be real easy...
This is where you can get to the steering shaft...


this is a shot to show where the hole can be located...

anhtuan904

after that i pulled the brackets off bench pressed(i am 130lb 5.6 asian haha) the new rack and pinion in bolt it together. and then got a new allignment... Apparently, my steering wheel moved too much while i was doing the job and ended up upside down(not good but i know with our SCs theres an easy way to fix that and ill show you next... I remember going to firestone for the allignment. and them telling me my steering wheel cannot be straightened, they could allign it but the wheel would be set upside down, they have to pull my rack out... I looked at them like they were crazy! I told them to go ahead and allign it and i will get the wheel str8 myself... and this is how i did it...

I disconnected the battery and waited 90 sec(A MUST DO). then I removed two covers around the two left and right side of the steering wheel and removed 4 torx screws(2 on each side). slowly pulled the airbag cover SLIGHTLY off and unplugged the airbag. now you can fully pull the airbag/airbag cover off and you steering wheel will look like this...

Above my WHEELS are pointing straight but my STEERING WHEEL is upside down.

Next remove the bolt directly in the middle and pull the wheel off...


Next you will want to reallign the spiral cord which has the directions right next to it. wasnt hard at all... then! just flip your steering wheel right side up and then put it back on! like this lol...

now your steering wheel may not be perfect the first time... so what i did was marked the thread where the steering wheel connected and took it from there...

anhtuan904

Firestone wanted to remove my rack and pinion for that!??? prolly would have costed a few hundred for them to straighten out my steering wheel... I did it in 20 min with NO cash required!...