Cost to make is run like new
03-26-10, 10:13 PM
#2
That would probably depend on the mileage and condition of the car in it's current state. How many parts are in good shape, and what is worn and needs replacing?
Suspension, such as all new bushings and shocks are likely. Your steering rack bushings could be mushy as well. Any squeaks and rattles? Good solid brakes and a well tuned engine plus proper shifting transmission are all part of a "new car" driving experience.
As well for many drivers the lights, all the dash and console lights have to be working, or you just know you're in a car that's seen a few years. Same for worn carpets and a scuffed steering wheel and stains everywhere. If you see those, it won't matter how tight the undercarriage is...you won't feel like you're in a new car.
So, what condition are you starting with?
-=Photon=-
Suspension, such as all new bushings and shocks are likely. Your steering rack bushings could be mushy as well. Any squeaks and rattles? Good solid brakes and a well tuned engine plus proper shifting transmission are all part of a "new car" driving experience.
As well for many drivers the lights, all the dash and console lights have to be working, or you just know you're in a car that's seen a few years. Same for worn carpets and a scuffed steering wheel and stains everywhere. If you see those, it won't matter how tight the undercarriage is...you won't feel like you're in a new car.
So, what condition are you starting with?
-=Photon=-
03-26-10, 10:20 PM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Well the interior is perfect, for having 190k the interior does not show at all. Everything works perfectly. All interior and exterior lights are fine, tires r new both front and rear suspension would be replaced with the exception of struts...........they are only a few months old and have 200 miles on them. Engine and tranny would be replaced and or refreshed. I already have all brand new components such as water pump,alternator, starter, pullies, ps pump, radiator
Right now I'm not concerned about the look of the car but more so the functionality of it.
Right now I'm not concerned about the look of the car but more so the functionality of it.
Last edited by Sup2jzgte; 03-26-10 at 10:25 PM.
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03-27-10, 07:54 AM
#9
Mortgage Slave
Now that my Soarer trubo isn't a daily I'm pulling the car apart and having anything that is worn out replaced with new parts (exterior, interior and mechanically). Although Toyota engines are considered near bulletproof I'm considering to get the factory 1JZ VVTi donk freshened up with new seals etc with a rebuilt R154 with all the manual running gear (it's an auto at the moment) and turn it into a tough street car.
If you can do all the work yourself you'll save a hell of a lot of money, but at the moment I don't have time to DIY on my cars so I have to fork out for labour as well. Depending what engine you're running/plan to run I'd factor that in parts availability/price wise. Also be mindful that OEM parts are generally more expensive than replacements but OEM is the way to go to make her feel brand new.
I just had a super major 150k (~90k mls) service done on my 01 GS300 which set me back a hair over $1800 but many things were replaced just for longevity's sake (it is my daily afterall). That's including all seals, belts, plugs and pumps replaced (even if they didn't need to be done, I wanted them replaced for peace of mind).
I'd say if you're looking to stick with the stock engine/driveline ~$5000 should cover you if you can look after everything yourself. If you're modding/upgrading bits and pieces then there's no real budget to stick to, just go nuts
If you can do all the work yourself you'll save a hell of a lot of money, but at the moment I don't have time to DIY on my cars so I have to fork out for labour as well. Depending what engine you're running/plan to run I'd factor that in parts availability/price wise. Also be mindful that OEM parts are generally more expensive than replacements but OEM is the way to go to make her feel brand new.
I just had a super major 150k (~90k mls) service done on my 01 GS300 which set me back a hair over $1800 but many things were replaced just for longevity's sake (it is my daily afterall). That's including all seals, belts, plugs and pumps replaced (even if they didn't need to be done, I wanted them replaced for peace of mind).
I'd say if you're looking to stick with the stock engine/driveline ~$5000 should cover you if you can look after everything yourself. If you're modding/upgrading bits and pieces then there's no real budget to stick to, just go nuts
03-27-10, 11:12 AM
#10
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I have a 97 as well that was in great shape when i got it.I also have about 65000 less miles than you,i think you need more money even if you are doing the work yourself.For example i'm doing brake job right now,4Dba rotors,ebc redstuff pads all around 754.97 shipped,4stop tech brake lines 154.90 shipped and 2cans of ate brake fluid 33.94shipped,cost for job including brake fluid flush 200-250. round up 1,200 depending on what brand parts you plan on putting on.Take your time i found that out the hard way.
03-27-10, 06:18 PM
#11
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Honestly, if you are willing to put $4500 into your current kouki, wouldn't it be easier to just sell your car and buy a low mileage one?
What is actually wrong with your car to make you feel the need for such expensive improvements?
What is actually wrong with your car to make you feel the need for such expensive improvements?
03-27-10, 07:02 PM
#12
Mortgage Slave
Some people like what they have now and don't want to sell. Some people prefer the shape of vehicles from the early 90's to early 00's. Going by these forums there doesn't seem to be a hell of a lot of them on the ground anymore. People already know the history of their own vehicle, any small issues with it etc. Selling and buying a new one could open up a new can of worms.
Last edited by BLK13X; 03-27-10 at 07:06 PM.
03-27-10, 07:34 PM
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While I can concur with that, if he is buying a lower mileage one that is truly in bad shape, that is more of a personal problem; IMO.
But if he is talking about spending forty-five hundred in maintanance to get the car to new OEM condition, then I suggest getting a better platform.
Buying a car with say 50k miles that looks like it is in good shape will more than likely be in better mechanical and physical shape than one with 200k miles and looks the same. No?
But if he is talking about spending forty-five hundred in maintanance to get the car to new OEM condition, then I suggest getting a better platform.
Buying a car with say 50k miles that looks like it is in good shape will more than likely be in better mechanical and physical shape than one with 200k miles and looks the same. No?
03-28-10, 05:22 AM
#14
Mortgage Slave
I know where you're coming from, only the insane go the opposite route, aka the long way 'round 
I guess in some ways it all comes down to budget at the time of purchase as well (such is my case lol).
Mileage = condition? In many situations yes... in my experience not always the case. I'm referring to Japanese imports though, since most of my old cars are personal imports from Japan. I've seen too many supposedly low km cars with hella wear on the seats, steering wheel etc... obviously you'd stay away from these one as you'd know that the km shown doesn't share the same correlation with the condition.
While I was looking for a daily last year, some looked near mint but the undercarriage need quite a bit of work, e.g. a 94 UZZ31/~80000kms that I was looking at had all the fruit and looked super clean except for the non-responsive CD player and rooted suspension (air struts were leaky as hell and front end knocking). With new air struts costing over $900 a pop over here and only front end bushes close to $1600 fitted, I waited it out and picked up a 91 UZZ31 with 145k on it. All struts replaced with new bushes, replaced fuel pump ECU, CD player alignment fix, working EMV with no dead pixels.
Unfortunately I don't have my 31 anymore (still in the family though!) but it was one of the tightest, freshest cars I have driven... along with my 97 '30 turbo (when I first picked it up, needs a small freshen up).
Same deal when I picked up my 01 GS300 a few months ago. Sure it had quite a bit of distance travelled, however it was serviced at the same dealership since new with the km/time being nearly in exact increments the same on each page of the log book. I could've gone for a GS with less km but none of the ones I was looking at were in the same colour combo (I tried my best to stay away from grey... yech) or were serviced consistently.
From my experience I'd say to buy a vehicle pending condition, not off the km on the dash
Back on track now... OP, what are the plans to make it run like new? Search up on the forums, there's a few threads of people restoring these gorgeous cars and I'm in awe of every single one of them
I guess in some ways it all comes down to budget at the time of purchase as well (such is my case lol).Mileage = condition? In many situations yes... in my experience not always the case. I'm referring to Japanese imports though, since most of my old cars are personal imports from Japan. I've seen too many supposedly low km cars with hella wear on the seats, steering wheel etc... obviously you'd stay away from these one as you'd know that the km shown doesn't share the same correlation with the condition.
While I was looking for a daily last year, some looked near mint but the undercarriage need quite a bit of work, e.g. a 94 UZZ31/~80000kms that I was looking at had all the fruit and looked super clean except for the non-responsive CD player and rooted suspension (air struts were leaky as hell and front end knocking). With new air struts costing over $900 a pop over here and only front end bushes close to $1600 fitted, I waited it out and picked up a 91 UZZ31 with 145k on it. All struts replaced with new bushes, replaced fuel pump ECU, CD player alignment fix, working EMV with no dead pixels.
Unfortunately I don't have my 31 anymore (still in the family though!) but it was one of the tightest, freshest cars I have driven... along with my 97 '30 turbo (when I first picked it up, needs a small freshen up).
Same deal when I picked up my 01 GS300 a few months ago. Sure it had quite a bit of distance travelled, however it was serviced at the same dealership since new with the km/time being nearly in exact increments the same on each page of the log book. I could've gone for a GS with less km but none of the ones I was looking at were in the same colour combo (I tried my best to stay away from grey... yech) or were serviced consistently.
From my experience I'd say to buy a vehicle pending condition, not off the km on the dash
Back on track now... OP, what are the plans to make it run like new? Search up on the forums, there's a few threads of people restoring these gorgeous cars and I'm in awe of every single one of them
Last edited by BLK13X; 03-28-10 at 05:25 AM. Reason: My speeeling
03-28-10, 11:10 AM
#15
When I bought my car it was in great condition compared to any previous SC I looked at (and I looked at a lot of them), but I planned to make the car as close to new condition as I could before modding it. I've spent a bit north of 4500 already, but if you ask any other so cal member that has driven my car they'll say its a lot nicer to drive.
When I got the car the engine was seafoamed, fuel injector were all cleaned, all fluids drained and replaced with oem or better, oil seals, spark plugs, all filters, and belts were replaced. The transmission mount, shocks, and bushings were changed out. I'm looking to replace the engine mounts and control arms in the future to get new rubber bushings and ball joints.
My interior is pretty mint condition besides the drivers seat (1 tear). I'm planning to sound deaden the whole interior to prevent rattling and tone down most if not all road noise. I'm waiting for summer so it heats up and the adhesive on the sound deadening works better.
When I got the car the engine was seafoamed, fuel injector were all cleaned, all fluids drained and replaced with oem or better, oil seals, spark plugs, all filters, and belts were replaced. The transmission mount, shocks, and bushings were changed out. I'm looking to replace the engine mounts and control arms in the future to get new rubber bushings and ball joints.
My interior is pretty mint condition besides the drivers seat (1 tear). I'm planning to sound deaden the whole interior to prevent rattling and tone down most if not all road noise. I'm waiting for summer so it heats up and the adhesive on the sound deadening works better.