most cost effective way to get 375rwhp out of 92 SC300 w/ 4 speed A430E?
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most cost effective way to get 375rwhp out of 92 SC300 w/ 4 speed A430E?
So I have a 92 SC300 with 125k miles on it and wanted to go NA-T with a hp goal around 350-380. Car needs work but the engine and tranny are tip top. Looking at a kit from xspower since it is inexpensive and I have heard good reviews. Also want to keep the stock tranny but do the Raybestos IPT tranny build kit and Precision of N.H. torque converter performance upgrade as well as a L.S.D. of some kind.
I am very new to all this and I am doing a LOT of research before I start as I will be doing the work myself.
My question is what is the most cost effective way to get 375 hp reliably out of my SC300? this will be a d.d. and will not be abused on a regular basis. Top end power is not important and neither is 1/4 mile time.
I am very new to all this and I am doing a LOT of research before I start as I will be doing the work myself.
My question is what is the most cost effective way to get 375 hp reliably out of my SC300? this will be a d.d. and will not be abused on a regular basis. Top end power is not important and neither is 1/4 mile time.
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low 300's with a trans cooler is all thats recommended on the stock trans, but who knows....
a cheap option to having a slightly better trans is getting a used 1jz trans, you need to take a few things from your a430e to plug it up, but the 1jz trans has more clutch packs.. so should hold a little more power, maybe 350-400ish?
a cheap option to having a slightly better trans is getting a used 1jz trans, you need to take a few things from your a430e to plug it up, but the 1jz trans has more clutch packs.. so should hold a little more power, maybe 350-400ish?
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XSpower is a good option. Scrap the oil feed and return lines that come with the kit and just run copper solid lines. As for the auto, you can make it hold your HP goal by shimming the accumulators and increasing line pressure which is almost free - just fluid, RTV, and some 1/2" pipe to cut for shims.
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XSpower is a good option. Scrap the oil feed and return lines that come with the kit and just run copper solid lines. As for the auto, you can make it hold your HP goal by shimming the accumulators and increasing line pressure which is almost free - just fluid, RTV, and some 1/2" pipe to cut for shims.
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Ok thanks I appreciate the info
You mentioned swapping in a tranny off a 1JZ because it has more clutch packs
and I was wondering if the raybestos blue plate rebuild kit would suffice since it is around $600 and I am guessing a tranny swap off a 1J would be a bit more. The raybestos kit comes with clutch packs that are supposed to be really good. Anyways thanks for the info and looking forward to posting my project later on down the road.
and I was wondering if the raybestos blue plate rebuild kit would suffice since it is around $600 and I am guessing a tranny swap off a 1J would be a bit more. The raybestos kit comes with clutch packs that are supposed to be really good. Anyways thanks for the info and looking forward to posting my project later on down the road.
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Anything is better than the factory one in the radiator.
Here you go... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-4120/
Here you go... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-4120/
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Ok so I will be ok with a big f#$king tranny cooler shimmed accumulators and increase
and thank you but no thank you on the nitrous this is my d.d. and that is not the direction I am going.
So the raybestos clutch packs are not necessary then?
Also, should I leave my stock t.c. alone or move up the stall and have it welded, brazed and balanced? My hp goal is up to 390 max now 390 whp that is.
So the raybestos clutch packs are not necessary then?
Also, should I leave my stock t.c. alone or move up the stall and have it welded, brazed and balanced? My hp goal is up to 390 max now 390 whp that is.
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and thank you but no thank you on the nitrous this is my d.d. and that is not the direction I am going.
So the raybestos clutch packs are not necessary then?
Also, should I leave my stock t.c. alone or move up the stall and have it welded, brazed and balanced? My hp goal is up to 390 max now 390 whp that is.
So the raybestos clutch packs are not necessary then?
Also, should I leave my stock t.c. alone or move up the stall and have it welded, brazed and balanced? My hp goal is up to 390 max now 390 whp that is.
My shimmed auto was holding fine at 11 PSI on stock fuel, so that should be around 330 ponies. I still have it if you wanna buy it.