ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I would say it is a direct fit if you buy the ones advertised for the IS300 as they only ran the 2jz with the OBDII style runners. BUT, if you want to go this route then I hope it too works out for you.

BuffNStuff

Well if you look up part numbers for stock injectors, the is300 injectors are not the same part number as non-vvti obdII injectors. That's why I don't wanna risk it.

I already have a set of injectors. For someone who hasn't bought injectors yet, this might be a good option. I'll let someone else be the guinie pig. I am already far enough into uncharted waters lol.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

UGHGHGHGH the damn frustrations of OBDII never end.

edit: So basically if I want to NA-T my car...not only do I need all the GTE ecu mod stuff on top of the turbo stuff...now I need a "new" intake manifold from an older SC??? Are there really no injectors that can work? Not even mad just really surprised at how difficult it is to turbo a 1997 SC. I am thinking of selling everything I've purchased now.

BuffNStuff

Is your sc your only car? If you have another car, you can find an insurance company that will put your sc into collector car insurance. Most states do not require emissions on cars in this insurance category. There are some milage restrictions like 5000 miles a year, and you have to have an enclosed garage, plus another car you drive daily. This is my back up plan since I have a beater Toyota pick up. If this all doesn't work out I will switched to using standalone which many people do on 1997s.

However, If I get this working, I will help you and ALI has been a huge help. You have the technical support here. How long until your car goes under the knife?


I hear ya on the obd2 stuff. This all makes me miss my 1996 Pontiac trans am ws6. The ecus in GM cars are much easier to work with and are easily programable. In my ws6 I could just program the light to not come on for certain codes that come up as a result of putting in a bigger cam, full length headers, cat delete...whatever. It was so easy to get around emissions.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

It is not going under the knife until I know for CERTAIN that everything I have is drop in ready. I know all my GTE ecu mod stuff is good to go MINUS the damn injectors now...and as for all the heavy turbo component stuff I still a few odds and ends. It is my only ride so thats why I will not attempt this until I know that it's all gonna work. No rush really but I'm pulling for next summer. It's just a downer to see this new thing I have to do to make it all work.

edit: By next summer though...I will probably have saved up enough and could probably sell everything I have now and just swap in a GTE. It's funny of all the 5spd SC's I could have got, I end up with 1 of 120 that you just cannot turbo any which way you want LOL

BuffNStuff

Well, that should give me plenty of time to get all the bugs figured out so you will have plenty of guidence. Once you get used to the layout of the wiring diagrams, the wiring is cake. If I had to do it all over I could probably get it all done in just a couple hours. Working out the bugs is really the only time consuming/annoying part. Otherwise I have enjoyed it lol. Don't fret by the time I am done, you should be able to go from stock to boosted in just a few days work since you will have all the parts ready to go.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Lets hope! PSHHHHHHHHH tssssss!!!!!

BuffNStuff

Would like to add that my vacuum according to my scanner is at 29.9 , and my coolant temp is always at 88.0* C. Isn't 29.9in hg too much vacuum? On supra forums, guys are saying they are at around 18-20. I scanned for codes again and it finally showed a lean code and all the misfires I had as a result of being lean. There is also a new code for the transmission temp sensor, P0710. And also a code for the tps p0120. I am starting to think my tps is busted.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Are you gonna try to just swap that out first?

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

You can test the TPS with a voltmeter. It should swing between 0V and 8V according to the manual. I thought it was just shy of 1 and 5 but book says 0-8.

Edit: I think i see the reason for the confusion. The book as you measure it from the round diag connector in the cabin across Tt and E1 and then press the pedal. I think if you measure the TPS directly its 1 to 5.

BuffNStuff

I am getting a throttlebody with the tps still on it included with the intake manifold so when I get that in we will see how it works out. I reset my scanner and now it says I am at 24 in/hg which I would assume means I don't have any vacuum leaks. I am so over fiddling with the tps that I am just gonna wait for the new throttlebody since that should already be in manufacturer spec.

Just a tip, do NOT mess with your idle screw unless you know exactly what you're doing. I think this is a big part of my troubles. Getting the throttle screw, tps, and IACV to work in sync together is a huge pita.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

those injectors for the IS look like they should fit better than the ones you are using. I would have to think those would fit as they are the same type of air assist injector and thats generally standard across toyota's of similar features but you never know. they would be different part numbers because the odb2 ones are metal body and the vvti is300 ones are a plastic body of the newer style injector but they share the same air assist system and have the same funky shape for the lower small oring and the larger top oring.
another difference on odb2 the air hose comes off the IACV, on vvti it comes off the top of the throttle body there is a vac nipple for it they got all fancy on vvti but its the same thing.

idle screw stock is basically just backed off all the way. so turn it out most of the way and then turn it in till it starts to tighten, set it right around where it begins to tighten and open the throttle body, but not really open. this lets the IAC do mostly all the work but sometimes it will want to idle way too low but thats a diff issue.

BuffNStuff

I just tried backing the throttle screw all the way out and then back in until it barely starts to move the throttle and it tries to idle at like 350 rpm. Strangely it will idle higher if I put the AC on. The only way I can get it to not be lean at idle is if I adjust the idle screw to where it idles at like 1200rpm. Basically the higher the rpm the better it behaves. But driving an automatic car that idles that high would be really annoying, especially during deceleration and at stoplights.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Higher idle with ac on is normal. Cold idle should be about 1200-1500 rpm and then it'll step down in increments to 750ish give or take. But if yours at 1200 never steps down, then obviously that's an issue.

BuffNStuff

Well I should get my obd1 throttlebody and intake in a week or so. We will see if I have a bad tps or IACV, or bad injector seals when I put it on. If that doesn't work, I'll set it on fire.