I made a few videos describing the setup and how it all played out. They are boring! but it shows what to expect when cold starting on the injectors and how the ecu learns and adjusts.


1st start with 330cc injectors (wiring was incorrect):




1st start, 2nd attempt with stock 330cc injectors:





2nd start, cold start w/ 550cc injectors & new BKR7EIX spark plugs:

The ECU adjusted the idle up by itself. I did recheck my TPS setting, and it was off, set the TPS voltage to .65, and then reset timing to 8ish deg base with the timing jumped. Once the ECU started pulling fuel at idle the idle RPM started setting properly.




2nd start, 550cc injectors, idling video shows the ecu slowly pulling / leaning fuel out at idle;






After driving for 10 miles, shows the idle A/F when the ECU pulls out enough fuel for the 550's:

 

The first video shows all the wiring really well but I did notice the tach and the B+ were switched on your ignitor that's why it didn't start. the diagram isn't wrong the tach is the solid black wire on the stock harness goes on pin 3, the B+ will be orange/black wire goes on pin 2, you had them swapped in the video (I have it memorized).
But really good job with the video showing all the different parts like the ignitor and the map/iat and the jumper that was pretty much exactly how i described doing it. Have much better video skills than me.. lol keep it up.

yeah the video shows the 330's are too lean I wouldn't run them really you did the right thing by moving to 440-550cc.
I like the videos showing it learning, it does take a drive or 2 but it really does learn to adjust. eventually we will see how it is in boost but looks like you are 90% there with the mod for now, probably one of the quickest tt ecu mods ever due to the stock distributor and coil.

how do you feel it drives in comparison to the stock ecu since you are n/a you would be in the best position to let us know.

 

Ya I switched out the Coil 1 wire, and the IGT red and yellow wire and I also has the tach and B+ wire backwards. After that was corrected it fired instantly.

The entire process was very straight forward and easy, especially with having extra Ecu pins to use. It was a simple un-pin and re-pin to the correct connector process.

The 330's drove ok just felt underpowered due to being so lean. I think it would work great to test if the ECU conversion is wired correctly just leaving the injectors stock but I wouldn't drive for long like that.

This Ecu drives very smooth considering the injectors are larger than they should be. It's not irrattic or jumpy. It doesn't buck or hesitate. The only part I've noticed is cruising down to a stop or letting rpms fall it tends to swing rich like 11-12 A/F and then it leans back out to 14.7-15.3.

Next is seeing how it handles WOT and I boost conditions.

 

Time to strap a turbo to it I guess and report back.
I swapped out my Aristo ecu for a JDM 6 speed supra ecu over the weekend, and I can confirm also that the a/c fix is not needed with the supra ecu. I had to undo my relay and just wired it back up like stock and the supra ecu controls the a/c perfect, so that is super confirmed by both me and HiPSI.

didn't get a chance to drive it around because oddly enough it snowing here in colorado in May, and the SC and snow don't play well together when boost is involved so maybe next week when it lets up some. anyone needs an aristo ecu let me know mine is now sitting on my desk, its the one in the first video good for automatic cars.

 

UGHH!! Can I just delete all this EGR crap? I cant get the friggin bracket off that holds the egr temp sensor and some hard lines. I trace the hard lines down and it feels like they go into the head. As in, you cant slide the bracket off the manifold stud near cylinder 6. I am out of light for now, but tomorrow, unless I hear of an easy way to get this thing off, I am cutting it off. The Y and throttle body are off, but the upper runner is stuck on there because of this stupid bracket that seems like it doesnt even need to be held in place due to it being welded to the hard lines.

I would rather just plug most of the vacuum ports and not have to worry about what goes where. Everyone on here complains about the EGR tube and the nut closest to the firewall that holds the Y pipe on. Those were cake. Maybe I am an idiot, but I cant get this bracket off. The dremel shall come forth and slay the evil bracket come tomorrow.

 

There is an EGR delete on here but IRC it is for OBDI You're not an idiot...your car is just OBDII lol

 

I know what you're talking about with those metal lines. That stupid nut is invisible. It's a 12mm head and once I removed it, I never put it back on. Sorry I can't help more.

 

You pretty much have to bend it a little bit when taking off to get it over the stud and bend it back when installing again, and tightening the nut will flatten it out mostly to its original shape. I know exactly the one you are talking about.

 

I have eliminated all my EGR stuff long time ago. I am OBD1 and it simplifies the vacuum routing significantly.

 

Hey guys, so I'm still having the same sort of troubles with my car. It no longer dies out (it was the fuel pressure regulator), and I had the major boost leaks fixed, OBDI lower runners installed, etc, but the car still hesitates going into boost, still goes full rich at WOT, idles at 1200rpm and then about 20 minutes after picking up the car from the shop where I spent thousands on making this thing perfect (they claimed it runs perfect), my check engine light came on (code P0510 according to Pep Boys). I'm at a loss for words with this car. I have no idea what is wrong with it...

 

Sounds like your close, i think that's just a tps issue. Pretty sure that code is tps but someone else will chime in.

 

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0510
code shows something is wrong with the TPS. If they pushed in the idle screw too much to try and raise the idle that way then it can keep the tps from closing all the way, there is only so much adjustment. at 1200rpm's that sounds like the problem. mine idles at like 650rpm's when warmed up with a/c off and with a/c on its more like 800 after its warmed up. ecu won't fully learn until it goes into idle I want to say.

Don't know why you are having so much trouble, but likely that shop did something wrong and they aren't going to find it if they think it runs perfect. might have to find someone who knows these cars better to look at it. maybe you are down a coil or something, or maybe you need to drive it a little longer and let it learn after you fix the tps. its not going to run right when it has a tps issue, its probably guessing at the fueling and cannot coast properly.
can you post a video of the startup and the symptoms if possible.

maybe we need to double check the 2 pinouts to make sure there are no o2 sensors or something in the wrong spot but I would think you would get a code for that. maybe fix tps and drive around some would do it if nothing else is off and no boost leaks.

 

Thank you Ali. There are no boost leaks. The TPS screw is all the way down. Is it possible there are some wiring problems maybe? Also, what is the A/F ratio supposted to be at WOT? Also, the car is supposed to pretty much run like factory with this mod, right?

 

The set idle screw should pretty much be backed out 99% of the way. if you are idling at 1200rpm's when warmed up then something is wrong there, and the code reflects that. it should start and idle around 1200 when cold and then go to about 650-700 when warm. with the a/c on it should bump up to 800-900. when I said before adjust it to raise the idle, I mean like a 1/4 to half turn its very sensitive, all the way in would not let the car think its idling ever, as pushing in the screw lifts up on the throttle and the tps at the same time. alot of times when you do push it in 1/4 turn, you rotate the tps some to make up for it, except there is only a very little bit of tps adjustment while the IDL circuit stays closed, and if you are idling without that IDL circuit reading closed for more than 2 runs of the motor, it will trip the code, so back off the screw all the way out for now, and then turn it in till you start to feel resistance and lock the nut down that holds it in place. Then set your tps to the side that HiPSI showed on the previous page.

fix that first and then lets figure it out. I had heard you do need to drive around on the odb2 ecu a bit more it does do more learning than the older ones.
you have the turbo installed? in boost you should be at 10:0 - 11:0 on the stock ecu. It is supposed to go rich but not enough to wash out the spark. alot of time when there are tps issues the ecu will overfuel. it is a safety feature. how does it feel just driving around and not boosting?

once you enter closed loop it should run better, at 1200rpm's it hasn't decided to idle down and go into closed loop, and it wont do that if the screw is set in too far either.

you could have other issues, but I just can't see how the gte ecu wouldn't run the na-t with a turbo on it, and its not the same issue as a map car where the turbo size will matter, cause the maf is before the turbo on your car it should pretty much be right on the perfect afr for whatever amount of air you want to pass through there. timing will be a different story though so make sure the timing is set right.

maybe those guys set the base timing without it actually being in the mode to set the base timing where the engine sound changes. remember its happened twice now, you cannot even set the base timing unless the tps is in the right position, otherwise you are setting the actual timing and not the base timing. this would drastically throw off the AFR's.

Unforunately you will have to double check everything. there are not a lot of things to the mod, but if you do one of them wrong and move on you can cause huge pains, especially with odb2 since no ones confirmed it yet but they are essentially the same ecu as the odb1 gte ecu.

can you post up or send me some pictures of some different shots of the bay and the sensors you wired in etc... I just can't seem to believe that it won't work. maybe its a matter of a missed ground or something on odb2.

 

Okay so I pulled the fuel rail off. These injectors I got from Osidetiger came with these edged grommets. They look like they are a perfect fit for the bowl shaped seat the injectors go in to. On top of that, they have the large grommet to seal it in the larger part of the hole. Idk how well the large grommets are sealing, but I couldn't find any signs of them leaking. These injectors look like they even insert the tip of the injector the exact same distance as the stock ones. I am gonna stop here for tonight and wait to see what you guys think.