BuffNStuff

More pictures..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Really can't say for sure how well that bottom one will seal, normally the bottom one on odb1 sits on the beveled part on that it looks like it fits completely inside. Honestly I couldn't tell you how well it would work like that you can clearly see the injectors are 2 different shapes at the bottom. Might not solve the issue but its something worth looking into for odb2 generally speaking its not a great idea to use the wrong injectors.

BuffNStuff

I found a post from Dave H. On supra forums where he says the lower seal fits, but the upper seal fits "okay". He says for lower horsepower levels it would work fine but highly recommends swapping the lower runner for high horsepower/high boost applications. This seems to be consistent with what I was experiencing since it wasn't leaking.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I am not sure you would really notice the bottom one is leaking into the air assist chamber if the upper o-ring is sealing even at lower boost levels. at higher boost levels it would likely leak through both. I would think it would show lean if it was leaking or having a misfire, so if it swings full rich then it seems like the fuel is where it should be. It may work fine for lower boost levels, or it may not I really couldn't say for sure without boosting them myself. I would just eliminate it personally or just buy IS300 injectors and try those, they are similar price online to the odb1 injectors anyways.
If you think they are sealing which they could be sealing enough, then lets start troubleshooting different areas.

are you and Mylexsc400 both having the same issue just in boost still? I am a little confused exactly who has what symptoms now.

when I did this mod the first go around I tried about 3 different sets of different sized injectors, its really not bad to just sell whatever you got and buy another set of injectors, its actually quite easier than messing with swapping o-rings or wondering if it will work, and much easier than swapping lower runners which require the removal of the injectors anyways. I think you guys are overcomplicating this injector thing.

do you have the 97 2jzge pinout? I can't seem to find it again I have the manual pdf but its not in that one maybe its the wrong one, but I wanted to double check through the pinouts against the gte again maybe you guys are missing a ground or something silly on the 96-97 n/a harness that I didn't catch before.
still weird how it can drive right but not boost correctly. generally in the US supra community that is a bad coilpack or clip or a small boost leak. a big boost leak the car wont stay running.
but if both have the exact same issue then I would think its a harness thing going on.

Are both of you using GTE MAF sensors. The GE MAF will run too rich in boost.
The only other thing I can think of is that the GTE odb2 us ecu is more aggressive in its tune or timing. If that is the case it may take several pulls for it to learn to adjust right, or perhaps some more lowering of he base timing is in order.

Edit* I just read online that if the fuel pressure vsv isn't plugged in the car may not build any boost. need to double check the pin for this is right and that the fuel pressure vsv is operational or at least plugged in.

also have you guys built boost before at all yet? you don;t have the flange on the wastegate backwards or something mechanical like that right. which would keep the turbo from building boost..

BuffNStuff

Is this screw on the throttle body supposed to make contact with the plunger?

I just saw your post ali, and I will reply when I get home. Hate posting from my phone. Lol

myLEXsc400

The problem with my case is that I don't know anything about wiring, and I had a shop do it for me initially. The car was running terrible so i took it to another shop where they fixed a bunch of things, but the car still has a tps check engine code (CEL is on), and first and second gear it breaks up a lot and only boosts right before redline. the rest of the gears have a breakup going into boost around 3500rpm. the car idles at 1200 (because of the tps issue i assume), and the wideband reads full rich under WOT. On a positive note, the car no longer shuts off on me. I'm running OBDI lower runner

BuffNStuff

My car was breaking up under boost as well. It built boost fine on the stock ecu so I don't think it's a mechanical issue. I am running a gte maf and I am choosing to use the stock lower runner. I am gonna get the manifold put back on, fix the auto transmission codes, and let the ecu learn to see if that clears it up.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thats to let in a little extra air on rapid deceleration. I will check where it is on mine today but generally its close or just touching the plunger, so when you suddenly let off the throttle that vac line going to the plunger will cause the plunger to expand, and cushion and push against the screw letting in more air under high vac conditions. this is to burn any extra gas so you don't get pops on decel, its usually on all manual transmission throttle bodies. shouldn't affect things too much even if its disabled but if the plunger sticks out far enough you wont be able to lower your idle past where it is. generally they dont break or fail very often.

Yeah I would have said go ahead and try it even without knowing wiring, its really easy to pickup and everything is laid out in the diagrams. whats worse is letting someone move wires around that is not fully aware of how the mod works. you literally have no idea what all they did now and that is a worse scenario than learning how to wire.
If the car still has a tps code then that has to be fixed first. no point even paying attention to what its doing until the codes are gone.
double check tps wiring, check any wires tapped off of it if you tapped in there for the map sensor. check actual tps itself or try and adjust the tps left and right if its just a code for the tps closed function.

there is a difference among the tps codes. a main tps code will be more the wiring or the actual tps.
the closed tps code is usually an adjustment, and it likely what your issue is since its idling so high.

Yeah I think that should help letting it learn some once all the major codes are gone.. if all else fails you might as well also try setting the base timing a little lower also like 6-8 maybe those ecu's have too much timing in there or something.

does anyone have that 97 n/a pinout still can't find it again, must be on other computer.

BuffNStuff

I'll post one up when I get home.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

maybe a maf cleaning could also be in order if these mafs have been sitting around for a while. its ok to clean the hotwire style maf's with the store maf cleaner spray.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Low horsepower and low boost settings would be like anything around 275-375 rwhp and what maybe 6-11psi? This is a good find man.

edit: I also just ordered 1 IS300 injector to do some comparing.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

are any odb2 fully working yet. you guys still having those issues or did driving around let it learn.
I was also thinking sometimes those toyota maf's act funny when they get dirty dusty.
If they have been sitting on a shelf for a while it may be a good idea to clean those hotwire gte maf's.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

For ODB2 issues do you guys have a ground wire coming out of these pins?
these are regular chassis grounds that should be there on your harness for a gte ecu, if not use spare pin and jump to chassis ground.
80 pin connector pin 4 E11
80 pin connector pin 69 E1
80 pin connector pin 79 E02
80 pin connector pin 80 E01

Also verify your maf ground:
MAF ground must be in pin B28 on 80 pin connector, not B30 like it is stock on 96 sc300's, if its in B30 and B28 is blank move that pin in B30 to B28. 97 you should check to see also.

let me know if there are not any wires in any of these spots or they do not look like grounds.
This could explain some of the problems if for some reason they are not there already.

myLEXsc400

so, update on my car. Got the TPS issue fixed by replacing it with a new sensor. Now I'm getting the final small boost leak fixed by replacing my leaky Greddy BOV with a Tial QR one. I went with an 8lb spring (i'm running 10psi boost with a manual boost controller). Will this work, or is that too big of a spring?

Also, random question, my engine spins at 3500rpm in 5th gear doing 80mph. Is this normal? Seems a bit high to me....

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds like good progress. 8lb spring is good and using the manual boost controller to 10 will help it spool faster also, very similar to my setup I think I have around a 9 psi spring in there.

Those rpm's are about right, the stock gearing is very high/short and that is why alot of people swap to a lower ratio diff to improve that, and then also once you hit boost in the gear you get to ride it out for longer instead of the short gearing where you constantly shift.
Just different styles the stock is on purpose short geared 4.08, but if you had a supra or automatic originally it would be even shorter. the N/A 5 spd SC300 got a longer ratio than the N/A 5spd supra (same as the 2jzge auto's) to make the n/a supra feel more sportier than the lexus. good for us though but most still want lower like 3.76 ratio.