kevcoupe

Is it possible to do this modification to a UK spec TT ECU?

Looking to go NA-T on my 93 JDM N/A 5 speed supra and have just picked up a set of non vvti coil packs and a UK supra ECU (6MT). I'm running an FFIM so not worried about clearance on the non vvti coils. Will be running 550cc rx7 injectors so the UK ecu seemed to be a good option as UK's came with 550's but I'm struggling to fill in the gaps..

Do the UK spec supra's have a MAF sensor like the USDM ones? How will this work with my car not having a MAF? What ignitor should I use? Will the wiring diagram on page 1 still apply?

Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

So I didn't read every single post and page but I have been browsing for some time now and haven't found an answer so figured I would just ask.

I was wondring what all I needed for the TT-ECU MOD .. I am currently in a 97' non-VVTi Auto. I have everything I need to swap for forced induction however correct me if I am wrong here.. I need :

Parts:
USDM 2JZGTE ECU for an A/T ( out of a 96-98 non vvti TT supra)
DS62 Ignotor
TT MAF

Wala!! little bit of wiring following the original diagram minus the two extra wires to the ecu from the ignotor and I'm good??? Right?? That's what I have gathered there.

My main question is will the stock A/T still work fine with GTE A/T ECU or is there some sort of patch I need to do?

Just trying to eliminate all complications before ripping into the car .. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I just found all this info out days before starting my NA-T swap and has caused quite a headache lol

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Just got a deal on a lower runner from a pre 97 so I figureill just keep the RC injectors and swap out the runners. Less questions and what ifs and more certainty that these injectors will for sure work.

Lexussc92

anyone have a wiring diagram for a ecu for a 1992 lexus sc300 automatic 2jz-ge na to a 2jz-gte non-vvti, i would greatly appreciate it, im in NEED OF IT

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Just buy the right injectors and you won't have to worry about it...it's not a big deal.

And for the last time, You guys need to search stop coming over here cluttering this thread with the same questions,Read this thread from page one.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I dont know what the right injectors are. That's why I picked the route I did.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You forgot to say the most important thing does your car have a maf right now or not?
UK is the same spec as JDM as far as I know.

There are only 2 versions.
USDM = maf sensor and a map sensor which uses 550cc stock.
JDM = Only a map sensor and 440cc stock.
The rest of the countries are just a copy of one of the 2 above.

If your has a maf sensor on the intake, then its similar to USDM, so see the info in post #1.
If your does not have a maf sensor on the intake, then its similar to JDM.

If its similar to JDM, then you should already have a map sensor and IAT installed on your n/a since the n/a does not use a maf either on JDM vehicles. just swap out the n/a map sensor for the TT map sensor (different ranges), IAT you can re-use your stock one. install all the rest of the ignition and injectors the same as USDM. basically the map sensor and IAT are already wired when doing the mod on a JDM n/a vehicle.

Yes, but odb2 versions of the mod are not going so great for 2 members right now.
If you don't need to do emissions, just do the odb1 version of the mod but the map sensor wiring will be a little different from whats on page 1, as the power wire for the map sensor cannot come from the old maf power wire and must come from the tps 5v blue red wire, as the newer maf's are 12v not 5v like the old maf's where we can reuse all the wires including the power wire.
for the auto trans, odb1 only thing that isnt working is the torque converter lockup solenoid, which we were working on a relay for but its not confirmed working. Trans will shift through all the gears just fine though, just the lockup not functioning. You can either plan on figuring it out or swapping to 5 spd or a gte auto trans but then remember some additional wiring for the new trans will need to be run as those wires arent on your harness already.

sounds good that should remove the doubt about the injectors but I think the IS ones should work.

you want a swap harness diagram or something.
you can search online for both diagrams individually but from on to the other might be difficult. there was a spreadsheet in the aristo nightmare wiring thread I suggest you do a search first.

Haha, so true alot of you new guys are asking questions that make me doubt whether you have read page 1 and absorbed any of it.

start with what you have (US or JDM GE, odb1 or odb2), what you need (have to be emissions friendly or not, map sensor based or doesn't matter.. etc), what you want (stock coil or multi-coils.. etc..), and then the choices are easy.

I don't think he was talking about you bud

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I'd rather just swap out lower manifolds for cheap than spend a ton on injectors that will still have a question mark

edit: Even then...I think I'm just gonna sell everything and keep the car stock. Even with the correct lower runners to match the injectors it wont run right...at least thats according to buffnstuff's experience.

I dont care about staying OBDII so what all is involved in going the OBDI route and will that actually make a difference?

dawhorl21

i make then. if anyone needs a dizzy cover let me know

myLEXsc400

I did the same thing, kept my injectors and changed out the lower runners. Now I'm just waiting on the new BOV to arrive so that I can eliminate the boost leak and theoretically the car should run great. Whats going on with Buff's car?

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Not sure. I pm'd him but he never replied. What is a sure fire way of knowing that the lower runner is a pre-97 OBDI?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

its just the tune I think on the odb2 and the maf that must be acting up. I Think you have to drive it around a bunch and cannot have a single boost leak, but I am not sure where these guys are currently at with their issue. I posted up all the grounds to double check on the harness but havent heard back from buff and I don't think mylexsc400 is having any more luck right now.

you can always do the obd1 version on an obd2 car and run off a map sensor JDM ecu, which id less picky about boost leaks.. etc... just your obd2 port will not work. so its like using a standalone that won't pass emissions by itself.

Yes thanks for the info on that, I really like my new shiny cap =)

Hopefully so, I always thought you guys might have an air leak issue or a recirculate issue or a pvc issue or something the maf cars are very sensitive to small leaks. even then it may take several pulls to learn what timing the motor likes and everything, its not as simple as obd1 it appears.

I wonder if throwing a map ecu ar vpc on there would help, it would eliminate the maf and run everything off a pressure sensor, but that more wiring to possibly mess up.

In for more updates though lets try and get this odb2 stuff working, I am sort of bummed its not working for you guys, but it could totally be something simple, its the nature of this kind of diy.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I reaaalllyyy think that its a matter of driving the car and letting the ecu do all the work. That is my gut feeling on the issues that buff is having. Once myLEX gets his leaks fixed I figure he should do the same.

edit: In vacuum of course. I wouldn't try seeing positive manifold pressure until it drove in vacuum like a stock car THEN try to boost.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That really good advice, but once you get it running the excitement kicks in. usually it will either boost good or not at all, but yeah getting it perfect in vacuum is always recommended first especially with maf cars.

I hope you guys are using T bolt clamps on those couplers and real couplers. If you use those worm gear clamps from the store you are asking for leaks. if its not 3-ply coupler do not try and put it on the stock throttle body you will melt it right away. 3-4 ply will last maybe a year or so and get a small hole in it from turbo heat. with a turbo blanket and 3-4 ply with the stock intake it will last a long time (my stock intake setup).

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

For the guys still on the stock intake manifold and throttle body. Are you using block off plates to eliminate the EGR? Does the EGR create a boost leak in positive boost conditions? Does anyone sell an inexpensive block off plate? Powerhouse Racing's kit is $90!