Right off the bat, I wanna apologize for the vertical camera. I'm an idiot. Lol first time driving while recording. Her is a video of my sc driving. It's only getting up to 5psi and I already replaced the missing egr gasket so I am thinking there is an issue with the wastegate or BOV. I remember being confused as to how all the gaskets 'n such went together when I first started all this a year ago. Maybe I fudged it. Idk. Any ideas?

Watch "Obd2 tt ecu mod running and driving" on YouTube
Obd2 tt ecu mod running and driving:

 

For me, I removed the throttlebody and the ypipe as one piece and worked my way down from there. Once you do it, the next time is so easy. I didn't take pictures of anything and easily got it all back together (minus the gasket I lost).

Tip: Only remove 1 bolt from the bottom of the egr pipe flange. This allows you to rotate the pipe back and remove the ypipe without risking dropping the gasket. Also, pay close attention to the fuel rail when you remove it. There are 2 very thin washers on both the feed and return ends. Those are also easy to drop and lose if you don't know there is a washer on both sides of the banjo bolt.


Also, I can't find the post where Dave H. Says the stock runner would be fine for low boost. I forgot what key words I used in my search. It's all up to you on if you want to risk it. My turned out great, and it's not leaking. However I can't in good faith recommend this to someone else. I am aware of the risk, and I have made precautions. But I am confident I won't have an issue.

Also the only difference I could spot in the lower runners was indeed the injector seats. The holes are shaped differently.

 

Its easier to remove the Y pipe from the upper, then the upper, then the lower.
Its tough to remove it all at once with all the little brackets and the egr stuff holds it together.

did you do the bypass vsv's t get rid of some of the trans codes alreay, or was that myLex...
I will take a look at them, basically your trans doesn't need all that stuff because its the older version, so it will drive normally it has everything it needs to work with maybe the exception of the lock up converter but if you don't do cross country high way driving it wont be a big deal.

Camera is kinda funny like that. SC looks and sounds like its running great, there is nothing wrong that I can tell at this point. please take the rotor off your distributor that is spinning around, then you just have the 2 little round gears that is what you want.
It seems like you are just set to boost at 6 psi, It doesn't sound like the ecu is causing that problem. what spring and waste gate do you have. might just need to turn up the boost with a boost controller, or you got your wastegate flange on backwards but then you would probably have no boost or too much boost cant remember but going to 6 and holding to redline almost seems like you have a 6 psi spring and its working right to me. hard to tell in the video.

Thats all good advice, its easier when you do it in steps at least the first few times until you delete the coolant pipes and remove all the unecessary brackets, then you could maybe pull it together.
The runners might be fine for you guys even if they are different shapes they could seal but I would double check each injector is a little different shape so make sure it seals good there. with all the issues I figured it was the next likely thing assuming no boost leaks and no installation errors, but if it doesn't need to be done then that is great. I would still try IS300 injectors on a 96+ if I wasn't pulling the whole intake, its just easier. I will order one online and test it out for you guys since I didn't sell the 96 motor.

 

I'm pretty confident I have the same weird style injectors so I really hope this can get resolved by next month. As of right now im planning on ordering parts at the beginning of next month. My plan is to just run 8-10 psi with the stock hg, and dist for a good while and obviously move up later. I'm also hoping having a manual will make it a smooth install.


edit* also the best of luck to you guys trying to solve these obd2 problems

 

How is your wastegate vacuum tubing plumbed? Do you have a boost controller or is the vacuum line just hooked straight to the side of the wastegate? It sounds like it's connected straight to the wastegate because you can hear it gradually opening at the spring pressure which is probably 5-6psi. If you switch to an electronic boost controller you can use both wastegate ports and only pop the wastegate open to control boost at the set PSI you want which will dramatically improve spool and torque.

Venting using the Tial Q on a maf car will probably cause weird driveability issues as metered air is escaping and not being returned back to the intake stream. I know Tial now offers a nice recirculating BOV option which would help this. You definitely don't want the valve to be open at idle as the car will bog and idle rough. If an intercooler pipe pops off or anything in the intake path comes loose you will immediately know it as the car will not run well. I experienced all of this back with my 2g DSM that I had which was a maf driven ecu.

 

I can't wait to see the end product.....you did an excellent job cutting that thing.

 

So I just got this in the mail. Pleeeaaseee tell me it's an OBDI lower runner lolv

 

Close up of the injector seat

 

That looks like the correct one to me.

 

Yes I am just on wastegate spring with no controller. I was told the wastegate would have a 10psi spring, but I guess not. It refuses to go any higher than 5 so..I will get a manual controller asap.

 

So I have been reading the last few pages to get caught up with the changes and updates and I think I'm on the same page, or at least chapter lol.

To sum things up and keep it cut and dry; OBD1 cars are pretty straight forward by following the OP and have been running reliably on the mod for awhile now..

OBD2 cars are running more or less but a work in progress, yeah?

I just don't want to get confused with the OBD1 / 2 lowers, possible blown engines with wrong fitting runners etc etc..

 

All the lower runners bolt up the same. The difference, and this is key, is the injector seats. For OBDI lower runners you can utilize rx7 injectors, RC injectors, basically a wider array of injectors. The OBDII lower runners need IS300 "style" injectors. If you don't want to hassle with swapping lower runners then you can keep yours and run obdI style injectors but only at a lower boost setting. To be safe at high boost or horsepower settings you would want to swap runners OR get the correct injectors for the runners you are going to use, in this case OBDII. You are correct for the rest though. And apparently OBDII is now up and running as reliable as OBDI. The ONLY exception is the decision of swapping lower runners or not and/or getting the correct style injectors to match. I hope this made sense lol

 

Sweet thank you!

 

For the OBD1 guys with just the MAP and IAT sensor, what BOV do you recommend? Does it need to be one that stays fully shut at idle like the HKS SSQV to let the ECU properly adjust idle rpm ? Or will the Tial Q work fine? The last Tial Q that was previously on my car had an 11 psi spring and it still would slightly crack open at idle allowing air in (This is when I was on AEM). Would this mess with the idle rpm setting? I know the Tial's are solid bov's that flow well but the HKS is great for staying shut at idle due to it's design.

 

So what I am understanding is that if your car was built before 10/97 you have the OBDI style lower runners and OBDI style injectors..

So since Mine was built in 01/97 what injectors do I need? (not IS300 even tho I'm 97) and does anyone have leads as to where I could get a set of 550's as they are hard to find apparently