Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

well this definitley puts a hold on my project as it is my daily and takes more then 20 mins. to get to work, and I make frequent HWY trips to visit family about 50 Miles away.. Can't afford to smoke my trans..

So just wondering if this TCC Relay mod has worked for anyone?

It is just converting the 12v signal (SC-Ecu) to ground signal (TT-Ecu) to keep the TT-ECU happy right? I couldn't imagine the Relay not working then.

WE NEED A BREAK-THROUGH FOR OBDII AUTO GUYS!!!!!!!!!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If you have a manual trans car grab the JDM 6spd ecu if you can, it works a little bit smoother and has a little more rev limit. I am manual and I used the aristo ecu for quite a while and while it was great, the 6spd ecu is slightly better for a manual car if we are getting picky about the small stuff. either will work.

Thats what I thought it was as simple as changing the type of signal like with the a/c relay, but something must be happening different. maybe I got the wiring on the relay wrong or did any of you guys look over/double check it? maybe a different relay is needed? In theory it should have worked only other solution is that one could try the actual GTE sensor on the GE auto but not sure if its a straight swap out sort of thing, I know the trans are very similar in overall design so it could be *crosses fingers*.

the lockup converter seems to be the only real function that doesn't work right away. the line pressure is still being controlled by the throttle body, so I will have to ask one of you guys with an auto car to step up and do some of my sort of pioneering in relays and swapping stuff, as I cannot really do it myself looking at diagrams, 50% of my aha moments come from playing around with the things physically. maybe when you do start Aswilley I can take a look at it.

when I started this mod I really didn't even think about auto transmissions at all or if they would work. honestly the stock auto wont last any good amount of time boosted. I suggest you guys factor the cost of gte trans upgrade or manual swap into the price of na-t, as even with the lockup working you will be on borrowed time with that trans anyways.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

on another note, I have torn down the motor again to do a new FFIM install and rework some stuff I needed to wiring wise etc..

a problem I had previously is that after hard runs I could smell the oil cooking, which didn't bother me that much cause I change it frequently, but then it hit me that I don't have to use an aftermarket oil cooler.

So I bought a 2jz-gte factory oil cooler with the whole oil filter mount, and I am pretty sure its a bolt on type of deal except it has 2 extra coolant lines to cool the oil. well what I figure is that I have the 2 hoses from my throttle body that are capped off, so I will put them to use and run those throttle body coolant hoses to the oil cooler. that way the lines are used up nicely and I get a factory gte oil cooler.

I know the big front mount oil coolers are like better or whatever, but I just want the basic keep oil from completely cooking oil cooler and I am pretty sure the factory one will do just that pretty well. If I have to upgrade the radiator I rather do that then have oil lines going everywhere. will update once I get it on the car.

It looks like this and this is a picture of a gte I think. I am wondering if that hard pipe from a gte would fit the one that goes around the back of the block, or I will just get some good quality hose and wrap it in heat shield stuff.

187

Interesting, I didn't think you guys would ever have a problem with that since theres so much oil moving at such a high pressure.

any updates on the obd2 injector thing ali?

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Whenever I login to clubna-t it says I have restricted access and cant click on anything, I guess it's not totally back up.

Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

Ali, so i'm not completely sure but check this theroy out

I just relized that TCC for our cars are on a duity cycle.. meaning that a relay cannot control signal at all and will never work, because you cannot put a percentage charge on an relay and it work.. it is either on or off.. The ECU is looking for "slippage" achieved by cycling the solenoid on and off in a duity cycle inorded to have smooth transision between "free-spin" and "lock-up" .. if it didn't cycle it the relay would turn on and it would be an extremely harsh engagment and probably do harm to the trans.

Since this is the case the only plauseable way to achieve TCC is to reverse the polarity to the selenoid and hope that it would work... ONLY PROBLEM !! - the GE TCC selenoid body constrution is 1 wire 12v signal and grounded through the selenoid body.. so you wouldn't be able to revers polarity cause it wouldn't work unless it was a two wire.. in theroy you would actually need a whole new selenoid and hope it matches/ values same/ fitment/ all sorts of other problems to encounter lol..

Form what I can tell so far is the JDM ECU sends 12v to the selenoid via duity cycle from ecu inputs.. some cool stuff happens inside lol.. the ground is sent back to the ECU via a second wire, where at that point the ECU finishes the curicut inside the control unit

I hate wiring lol.. this took a while to come up with so let me know if this makes sence..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you don't need one but it helps I bet.
the injector thing, well they showed that you can use the obd1 injector on the obd2 rail, it will seal still even though its not the perfect o-ring. they said up to a certain amount of boost though generally speaking though if it seals it seals so I would think its fine then.
getting an older lower runner or newer style injectors is not a bad idea but for simplicity sake it turns out you can use the older injectors on the obd2 runner originally I was unsure and I had only suggested changing it out because the 2 people trying it were both having similar trouble getting it working and i figured it was a possibility. turns out it was something else though.

just went there I can open the links and everything. be cautions there is also good info and bad info on there. I wonder if my link in the first page is working again.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

ecu connector and ecu pin

myLEXsc400

Hey guys, I really think I'm either going to give on on this car completely and sell it, or save up some money and go stand-alone, because I'm just completely fed up with this car.

After my misfire codes came back a couple weeks ago, I took it to another shop where they replaced all the vaccum lines, replaced my copper plugs with low-gapped laser cut irridiums, checked the coils, cleaned up the wiring for the COP conversion, and cleaned my IAC (it was filthy and making squeaking noises). I picked up the car the other day, put 70 miles on it and the codes are back.
-random misfire
-misfire on cylinders 2,3,5,6

The car makes a loud whooshing air sound between 3000-4500 rpm and just does not accelerate during that time. Then it pulls past that from 4500-6000 at which point whats the point? I lost in a stop-light drag race with my dad's stock Chevy Colorado Xtreme. Thats embarrasing. Oh, and the boost spikes at 12psi for some reason even though my MBC is supposed to peg it at 10psi. IDK whats wrong with this car...... Im so broke because of it.

Literally everything in this car has been checked through by 3 shops and everyone is stumped why this doesnt work and everyone says just go stand-alone. I spent ridiculous amounts of money on labor, and the car still runs like crap. What am i missing???

Or am I too much of a perfectionist? I mean the car is drieveable and doest die out. Is it supposed to run like stock and boost linearly? Is the idle supposed to be around 700? (mine idles at 950 only when fully warmed up and boosted).

BuffNStuff

Sounds like your BOV is leaking. Mine does the same thing. I ordered a 12psi spring for my tial BOV because my vacuum does not match my spring. My bov opens and flutters causing a very loud whoosh sound and dramatic power loss.

Your issue sounds mechanical. Going standalone will not resolve the issue. Did you match you BOV spring pressure to your vacuum levels?

This would also explain why you are fouling your plugs and getting missfires. You're loosing all that metered air and running too rich in boost.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I missed this post earlier. you are def right in that its not easy as reversing the polarity because the GE sensor is grounded through the sensor body, which is why I tried the relay method as the only way that ge sensor is going to trigger is via a power signal as you would have to seperate the sensor body fromt he transmission to apply power to it and its just a really bad idea.

I was not aware it was a duty cycle type of signal. I thought it was a regular on or off signal since the online guide says the GE puts out a power and the gte puts out a ground.
It could be that the ge one is simpler and the gte one is duty cycle so I will try and look into it.
If its duty cycle then the relay would likely not work.

Not sure you would want to even bother making a circuit to take the duty cycle and output a signal, it really seems like the ecu should do this but if that is the case then what I would do first is just get the gte solenoid and see if its a direct swap out as these trans do share the same trans code there is a chance it may fit.
you probably need to drop the pan on the trans, but then if it is just a matter of swapping it out and jumping a standard power wire from an adjacent sensor that would be a good result.

It shouldn't be doing that, but its probably not the ecu's fault unless its a bad ecu. If its not ecu related the standalone probably won't help alot but maybe the car will run a little better when fully tuned cause it will run off map and wont need the tps in the right position which can alleviate the simpler problems with the stock ecu. It still sounds like a leak to me or incorrect ignition timing, maybe post up some photos of different angles on the bay so we can spot something.

Did you yourself make sure the timing was set right with the tps in the right position where you heard the engine change sound when you put the jumper in?
if you are idling at 900 without the a/c on then it sounds like its not entering the idl part right, a gte ecu entering closed loop on the stock intake will idle down to 650 with the a/c off with the tps in the right position, and usually around 900 or so with it in the wrong position. remember you also cannot set timing with the tps in the right position. If when warm you don't see the rpm meter going from 900 down to lower after you come to a stop (usually takes 3-5 seconds) your tps is in the wrong position.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Turns out you were right on the GTE ecu it is labeled SLU- which is a newer type of duty controlled signal probably used on the gte and then later on most obd2 vehicles.

The GE uses S3 signal for this (S1 and S2 are the shift solenoids) so that tells us along with them moving the pin over that the old signal was likely the simple on off and the new one is duty cycle controlled (will double check on the GE setup).

you can see the description on this from the FJ cruiser I found online except this one is wired differently
http://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/20...em/0170033.pdf

http://www.bluegrasstoday.com/wp-con...0e_shudder.pdf

It also says the ecu uses the speed sensor NCO which is present on the GTE pinout as the overdrive speed sensor, but is not present on the GE pinout, I am not sure if this is needed for the ecu to drive the torque converter lockup.

Plug 21 NCO+ Over Drive Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Input This pin is used to detect the speed of the automatic transmission O/D input shaft. The fuel injectors are electronically controlled by the engine ECU. This pin connects to the OD speed sensor located on the left, front side of the automatic transmission and outputs ? pulses (reluctor pulses) per revolution of the OD direct clutch drum.

if the overdrive is working though there may be some sort of bacup or failsafe for this such as one of the other 2 speed sensors, so I would just try swapping out the solenoids and hope it works without it or it may be entirely possible that you cannot use the variable lockup on the older trans or whatever, I have a very basic understanding of the auto trans's but I have a good understanding of electronics.

still trying to find a waveform diagram for the 2jzge transmission S3 lock up solenoid.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

2jzge lock up solenoid (1 diagram) followed by 2jzgte lock up solenoid (2 diagrams)
pretty clear now the GE is on/off it says it opens when power is applied that is it.
The GTE is variable as it says it moves in and out as variable power is applied.

you could in theory reduce the GTE one to simple on/off by having a circuit ouput battery voltage when the duty cycle is above a certain amount.
I guess that is the circuit that is really needed to use the old one...

or if the GTE one fits since its variable might be better although I also see the GTE has a 4th solenoid called back pressure accumulation also which the GE is missing... not sure if they are related or not.

BuffNStuff

All the more reason for me to swap to tt auto and not fiddle with it Lol. if I had the money, I would swap to 5 speed but it seems that can't be done for less than 2k. I'll roll around on a tt auto for awhile until I can afford an r154 swap.

myLEXsc400

here are some pics of my engine bay. anyone see anything off?