2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#211
I just dropped my coils in, they can hardly move around with all the wiring also.
Someone on club na-t fashioned a little metal bracket for each one, check out my sticky for the distributor delete over there.
Rc engineering was known for making 440's top feed high impedance. they look like the oldschool bosch kind.
you are going to be re-wiring either the clips or the resistor pack in most cases, like the rc ones i got I had to rewire the clips.
If you get 7m ones you will be doing the resistor pack but the clips are plug and play.
so i wouldnt be concerned that much with the adapters, just make sure you get the clips with the injectors if they are not the 7mgte kind.
If you use a mk3 resistor pack, there are only 3 leads so you pair 1 and 6 together, 2 and 5 together, and 3 and 4 together (sound familiar?).
If you use a mk4 resistor pack, there are 6 leads you wire each injector to its own lead.
Did you guys touch the wiring for the distributor at all other than the grounds at the ecu.
I still am trying to understand why both of you are getting a map code, for me i had 2 of the wired swapped. on the map sensor.
For code 52 does that happen when you hit the wall. knock code should go away if you reset the ecu. if it comes right away could be a bad wire.
BTW I wouldn't keep trying to rev it past where it doesn't want to go with the map code lit up. your timing will be all over the place.
you need to get it sorted out and then it will work 100%.
I am gonna go check my map sensor and IAT wiring again tonight to verify.
do you guys have different colors at your maf plug? if so list them here and I will tell you what each on is.
Someone on club na-t fashioned a little metal bracket for each one, check out my sticky for the distributor delete over there.
Rc engineering was known for making 440's top feed high impedance. they look like the oldschool bosch kind.
you are going to be re-wiring either the clips or the resistor pack in most cases, like the rc ones i got I had to rewire the clips.
If you get 7m ones you will be doing the resistor pack but the clips are plug and play.
so i wouldnt be concerned that much with the adapters, just make sure you get the clips with the injectors if they are not the 7mgte kind.
If you use a mk3 resistor pack, there are only 3 leads so you pair 1 and 6 together, 2 and 5 together, and 3 and 4 together (sound familiar?).
If you use a mk4 resistor pack, there are 6 leads you wire each injector to its own lead.
Did you guys touch the wiring for the distributor at all other than the grounds at the ecu.
I still am trying to understand why both of you are getting a map code, for me i had 2 of the wired swapped. on the map sensor.
For code 52 does that happen when you hit the wall. knock code should go away if you reset the ecu. if it comes right away could be a bad wire.
BTW I wouldn't keep trying to rev it past where it doesn't want to go with the map code lit up. your timing will be all over the place.
you need to get it sorted out and then it will work 100%.
I am gonna go check my map sensor and IAT wiring again tonight to verify.
do you guys have different colors at your maf plug? if so list them here and I will tell you what each on is.
hey ali, i wired my map identical to the pic you posted.... Either the map is bad, or somehow i messed up, The check engine light comes on within 5 seconds of starting the car, that makes me believe it has zero signal to the map. Im gonna test this theory by unplugging the signal wire and it should run exactly the same if im right.
also i remember you said with the car off it should be around 2v at that wire right?
My wires are identical from the maf plug, Also in addition to hitting the wall at 4k ish if you try and hold a constant RPM is breaks up hard in neutral. other than that it seems to run great under throttle until 4k. Its gotta be the map for some reason i just cant figure it out. ill report back after i test a couple things
Last edited by sj408; 08-01-12 at 10:50 AM.
#213
Here ya'll go hopefully that will fix your issue, the fact that you can rev past 3k rpm and you have code 31 is all the same issue once you fix that issue you will be good to go!
check out this link
check out this link
#214
It seems that one refers to code 35, it still applies to my issue though right? after work ill try and go through said procedures and see. Since mine is just a GE will the test results be the same though?
#217
hey ali, i wired my map identical to the pic you posted.... Either the map is bad, or somehow i messed up, The check engine light comes on within 5 seconds of starting the car, that makes me believe it has zero signal to the map. Im gonna test this theory by unplugging the signal wire and it should run exactly the same if im right.
also i remember you said with the car off it should be around 2v at that wire right?
My wires are identical from the maf plug, Also in addition to hitting the wall at 4k ish if you try and hold a constant RPM is breaks up hard in neutral. other than that it seems to run great under throttle until 4k. Its gotta be the map for some reason i just cant figure it out. ill report back after i test a couple things
also i remember you said with the car off it should be around 2v at that wire right?
My wires are identical from the maf plug, Also in addition to hitting the wall at 4k ish if you try and hold a constant RPM is breaks up hard in neutral. other than that it seems to run great under throttle until 4k. Its gotta be the map for some reason i just cant figure it out. ill report back after i test a couple things
I just had a thought, since both of you have the same problem, maybe its part of the stock setup I had taken out of my car.
Like I don't have the second o2 sensor connected on my car just one o2 connected to pin 48. try unplugging the second o2 sensor on pin 47 and see if that helps.
I do not think the jdm ecu's use a second sensor, only the main one. usdm ecu's use both from what I can tell online.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-01-12 at 01:50 PM.
#219
The middle wire should be like ~2.3 volts.
My diagram says to use the far left ground for both sensors. the other ground wire may not work the same, not really sure on that one.
I just had a thought, since both of you have the same problem, maybe its part of the stock setup I had taken out of my car.
Like I don't have the second o2 sensor connected on my car just one o2 connected to pin 48. try unplugging the second o2 sensor on pin 47 and see if that helps.
I do not think the jdm ecu's use a second sensor, only the main one. usdm ecu's use both from what I can tell online.
My diagram says to use the far left ground for both sensors. the other ground wire may not work the same, not really sure on that one.
I just had a thought, since both of you have the same problem, maybe its part of the stock setup I had taken out of my car.
Like I don't have the second o2 sensor connected on my car just one o2 connected to pin 48. try unplugging the second o2 sensor on pin 47 and see if that helps.
I do not think the jdm ecu's use a second sensor, only the main one. usdm ecu's use both from what I can tell online.
#220
yeah i connected both wires to my left brown wire.
so 1 wire from the IAT and the ground wire from the MAP to the left Brown wire from the maf plug.
didnt know they both went to the intake, i figured there was a reason they put both sensors on 1 wire.
so 1 wire from the IAT and the ground wire from the MAP to the left Brown wire from the maf plug.
didnt know they both went to the intake, i figured there was a reason they put both sensors on 1 wire.
#221
also i guess i cant perform the tests quick posted cause it seems it requires some "check harness" or something. guess im gonna test the map first and replace and then if it doesnt work ecu time
#222
Ground is ground all the brown wires are ground it doesn't matter which one you use as long as it's ground.
You guys still messing with this stuff? come on guys it's a 30min job!
You guys still messing with this stuff? come on guys it's a 30min job!
#223
yep.... the initial stuff was easy... but now im troubleshooting wether or not my map sensor or my ecu is bad. probably will just get both and call it a day lol. my car drives great in boost but misfires like **** during cruising and dumps smoke. only code is for a map 31.