2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
08-08-12, 12:06 AM
#271
Yeah still using the distributor, left the cap on just to protect it. If new wires doesnt solve it then im clueless... but that has to be it. There is no more variables left in the equation, i replaced map and ecu and only code is for a map and the map signal wire reads way too high, new wires it is.
08-08-12, 10:29 AM
#273
Ill try the IAT as well if that doesnt work, will also tie both grounds together like you did.
Im so bummed on this, i was really counting on it being the ecu
08-08-12, 02:34 PM
#274
you have to leave the old power and ground wires in place. \you tap into them if you want to run new power and grounds to the map sensor.
you may just want to try running a new signal wire first and see if that solves it before worrying about the other 2 but if you want to you tap into those.
you may just want to try running a new signal wire first and see if that solves it before worrying about the other 2 but if you want to you tap into those.
08-08-12, 05:28 PM
#275
you have to leave the old power and ground wires in place. \you tap into them if you want to run new power and grounds to the map sensor.
you may just want to try running a new signal wire first and see if that solves it before worrying about the other 2 but if you want to you tap into those.
you may just want to try running a new signal wire first and see if that solves it before worrying about the other 2 but if you want to you tap into those.
08-08-12, 07:15 PM
#276
08-08-12, 08:32 PM
#277
Just started a thread, what pics do you suggest i post?? will take any vids and pics you need. Im at the point where ill fly one of you out here to fix it LOL. This is my daily too. 
on another note i pulled the vacuum line at my FPR and it had no vacuum, even with large increase in throttle i felt nothing. Could this be related? though i doubt it figured id mention it.
on another note i pulled the vacuum line at my FPR and it had no vacuum, even with large increase in throttle i felt nothing. Could this be related? though i doubt it figured id mention it.
08-09-12, 08:50 AM
#278
sometimes you don't get a whole lot of vac when the car is not running well.
I am thinking that other ground doesn't go to the right spot E2 on the ecu.
so the map sensor output is displaying full voltage without a proper ground for it to make the proper signal.
If you notice the ground wire on pin 5 goes off to the side of the diagram entirely instead of going to E2 at the ecu.
the map needs to be wired very specifically, not just any ground will do the trick, it has to be the right sensor ground.
I would strongly suggest changing that ground on the map and IAT, they both should go to the old pin 1.
especially if you have the map sensor connected to the pin 5 ground, swap it back exactly like the diagram.
thats the only thing I can think of. and you are positive you got the right spot B62 to plug the map wire into the ecu.
it is not there stock you have to move it. This should work, I have had it wired this way for a long time.
and if you can't get the map sensor to read properly, a standalone is not going to be of much help.
I am thinking that other ground doesn't go to the right spot E2 on the ecu.
so the map sensor output is displaying full voltage without a proper ground for it to make the proper signal.
If you notice the ground wire on pin 5 goes off to the side of the diagram entirely instead of going to E2 at the ecu.
the map needs to be wired very specifically, not just any ground will do the trick, it has to be the right sensor ground.
I would strongly suggest changing that ground on the map and IAT, they both should go to the old pin 1.
especially if you have the map sensor connected to the pin 5 ground, swap it back exactly like the diagram.
thats the only thing I can think of. and you are positive you got the right spot B62 to plug the map wire into the ecu.
it is not there stock you have to move it. This should work, I have had it wired this way for a long time.
and if you can't get the map sensor to read properly, a standalone is not going to be of much help.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-09-12 at 09:00 AM.
08-09-12, 09:54 AM
#279
sometimes you don't get a whole lot of vac when the car is not running well.
I am thinking that other ground doesn't go to the right spot E2 on the ecu.
so the map sensor output is displaying full voltage without a proper ground for it to make the proper signal.
If you notice the ground wire on pin 5 goes off to the side of the diagram entirely instead of going to E2 at the ecu.
the map needs to be wired very specifically, not just any ground will do the trick, it has to be the right sensor ground.
I would strongly suggest changing that ground on the map and IAT, they both should go to the old pin 1.
especially if you have the map sensor connected to the pin 5 ground, swap it back exactly like the diagram.
thats the only thing I can think of. and you are positive you got the right spot B62 to plug the map wire into the ecu.
it is not there stock you have to move it. This should work, I have had it wired this way for a long time.
and if you can't get the map sensor to read properly, a standalone is not going to be of much help.
I am thinking that other ground doesn't go to the right spot E2 on the ecu.
so the map sensor output is displaying full voltage without a proper ground for it to make the proper signal.
If you notice the ground wire on pin 5 goes off to the side of the diagram entirely instead of going to E2 at the ecu.
the map needs to be wired very specifically, not just any ground will do the trick, it has to be the right sensor ground.
I would strongly suggest changing that ground on the map and IAT, they both should go to the old pin 1.
especially if you have the map sensor connected to the pin 5 ground, swap it back exactly like the diagram.
thats the only thing I can think of. and you are positive you got the right spot B62 to plug the map wire into the ecu.
it is not there stock you have to move it. This should work, I have had it wired this way for a long time.
and if you can't get the map sensor to read properly, a standalone is not going to be of much help.
As well Since pin 5 just goes off the diagram somewhere i just leave that in place right???
08-09-12, 01:14 PM
#280
I have pin 5 hanging not connected to anything, I just peeled some of the tape off the stock harness, bent it backwards and shoved it back down the sheathing so it isn't hanging out there to touch stuff.
you can use 2 quick splices on that line to get it running, but I dont normally trust those on something important like a map sensor long term, dont want that getting loose while you are boosting or loosing contact. with those you are only touching a small percentage of the actual wire with the splice.
When I say splice or tap into a wire without cutting the end off, I usually take a razor blade and cut off the insulation about an inch long around the wire, without actually cutting the wire itself. you can then wrap your new wire around it as much as you possibly can, and then for extra insurance you can solder before taping.
you can even get heatshrink on it if you can disconnect the pin during the process.
In this case though you can just cut off the pins, do your wiring, and reatatch the pins right before the 2 sensors. I hope that makes sense.
the MAP and IAT wiring does not require any splicing, unless you have to retain your maf plug for going back to stock, and then I would splice like i described above.
so you could get a good amount of bare wire at the end without the pin, do the same to the other 2 ground wires you want to connect to it, and twist all of them together firmly. once you are positive thats the right way, you can just tape it up securely (lazy way) or solder them together (best) because you can always disconnect at the map sensor plug now and at the IAT. no need to have a connecter where the old one was.
On mine I used a 4 pin weatherpack connector there, and the one side is the stock wires, the other side the map and IAT where 2 of the wires I crimped and soldered to 1 pin. But I sort of have a redundant connector now that doesnt do much but take up space.
just make sure to solder connections in the engine bay later on or make sure the connection is really solid. at the ecu it is less important to solder if you make good connections (less heat and vibration).
you can use 2 quick splices on that line to get it running, but I dont normally trust those on something important like a map sensor long term, dont want that getting loose while you are boosting or loosing contact. with those you are only touching a small percentage of the actual wire with the splice.
When I say splice or tap into a wire without cutting the end off, I usually take a razor blade and cut off the insulation about an inch long around the wire, without actually cutting the wire itself. you can then wrap your new wire around it as much as you possibly can, and then for extra insurance you can solder before taping.
you can even get heatshrink on it if you can disconnect the pin during the process.
In this case though you can just cut off the pins, do your wiring, and reatatch the pins right before the 2 sensors. I hope that makes sense.
the MAP and IAT wiring does not require any splicing, unless you have to retain your maf plug for going back to stock, and then I would splice like i described above.
so you could get a good amount of bare wire at the end without the pin, do the same to the other 2 ground wires you want to connect to it, and twist all of them together firmly. once you are positive thats the right way, you can just tape it up securely (lazy way) or solder them together (best) because you can always disconnect at the map sensor plug now and at the IAT. no need to have a connecter where the old one was.
On mine I used a 4 pin weatherpack connector there, and the one side is the stock wires, the other side the map and IAT where 2 of the wires I crimped and soldered to 1 pin. But I sort of have a redundant connector now that doesnt do much but take up space.
just make sure to solder connections in the engine bay later on or make sure the connection is really solid. at the ecu it is less important to solder if you make good connections (less heat and vibration).
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-09-12 at 01:25 PM.
08-09-12, 04:24 PM
#281
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Looks like all my stuff might be in friday so we will see how this goes.... Excuse the wiring in my bay but you know whats up wit that!
On a side note how hard do you think it will be to mount this monster i wear a size 9 shoe HAHA (GTA4502V)
"SERIOUSLY THO" and sorry for the crappy pics my phone is a dinosuar POS!
On a side note how hard do you think it will be to mount this monster i wear a size 9 shoe HAHA (GTA4502V)
"SERIOUSLY THO" and sorry for the crappy pics my phone is a dinosuar POS!
Last edited by SixSense; 08-09-12 at 04:29 PM.
08-09-12, 10:11 PM
#282
Looks like all my stuff might be in friday so we will see how this goes.... Excuse the wiring in my bay but you know whats up wit that!
On a side note how hard do you think it will be to mount this monster i wear a size 9 shoe HAHA (GTA4502V)
"SERIOUSLY THO" and sorry for the crappy pics my phone is a dinosuar POS!
On a side note how hard do you think it will be to mount this monster i wear a size 9 shoe HAHA (GTA4502V)
"SERIOUSLY THO" and sorry for the crappy pics my phone is a dinosuar POS!
on another note i bridged the grounds and still no difference!
08-09-12, 10:21 PM
#283
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Nope havnt switched over yet i switch back and forth for testing but have not fully committed because of the injectors and coils but they should be here tomorrow so if everything goes smooth it will be in the trash receptacle haha...
Damn man if i was still 22 i would do stand by and help u lol man its makin me frustrated just hearing the problems you have!!!
Damn man if i was still 22 i would do stand by and help u lol man its makin me frustrated just hearing the problems you have!!!
08-10-12, 12:00 AM
#284
Nope havnt switched over yet i switch back and forth for testing but have not fully committed because of the injectors and coils but they should be here tomorrow so if everything goes smooth it will be in the trash receptacle haha...
Damn man if i was still 22 i would do stand by and help u lol man its makin me frustrated just hearing the problems you have!!!
Damn man if i was still 22 i would do stand by and help u lol man its makin me frustrated just hearing the problems you have!!!
08-10-12, 09:59 AM
#285
Sixsense are you still getting the map code or is the injectors and ignition only thing left for you?
Sj408, Ive been trying to think of all the things it could be, so you have both connected to pin 1 now, and nothing connected to pin 5 right?
you gotta get that 2.4v on the middle wire of the map sensor. maybe try swapping the outer 2 pins, the ground and power just in case they got mixed up. that happened to me when I used the same color for 2 of the wires, cause I ran out of my third color of wire by the time I wired that up.. lol.
here is a pic I took of my connector the last time I rewired it to fix the above issue, the colors are different cause I borrowed this connector/wires off my spare gs300 harness, and it is not a map sensor connector (but fits the same when you trim 1 tab), but the middle is signal and the blue red should be the same as everyone elses.
and here is the troubleshooting for your code straight from the manual.
Sj408, Ive been trying to think of all the things it could be, so you have both connected to pin 1 now, and nothing connected to pin 5 right?
you gotta get that 2.4v on the middle wire of the map sensor. maybe try swapping the outer 2 pins, the ground and power just in case they got mixed up. that happened to me when I used the same color for 2 of the wires, cause I ran out of my third color of wire by the time I wired that up.. lol.
here is a pic I took of my connector the last time I rewired it to fix the above issue, the colors are different cause I borrowed this connector/wires off my spare gs300 harness, and it is not a map sensor connector (but fits the same when you trim 1 tab), but the middle is signal and the blue red should be the same as everyone elses.
and here is the troubleshooting for your code straight from the manual.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-10-12 at 10:05 AM.