One more thing how is the resistor mod done?

 

just popped the ecu open and found two leaky capacitors do you think this may be the cause of the misfire issue??

 

Its a good bet ive heard of similar issue on 1jz ecus, I got another ecu hit me up if you need

 

OK, just read through all this and I'm definitely going to do it - eventually. One question though, and I apologize if I missed the answer...

Instead of replacing my single wire o2 with a heated 4 wire, or doing a resistor, can I just tap in to my 4 wire WBo2 - and split the signal?

Right now I have the GE ECU running with just one single wire o2 splitting to where the other one use to be.

 

yeah leaky caps usually show up as an injector issue so there is a good chance thats it.

when I tried to use the other signal off the wideband, It did not work for me.
i would recommend just using the stock o2 sensor in addition to the wideband.
mine is running good with the 1 wire o2, and its an aftermarket replacement.
I didnt bother installing a heated o2 sensor because i didn't get a cel for o2 sensors at all.

 

Thank you! I'm extremely excited about this. Thanks for all the effort you and the others have put into it!

 

you take out the cluster and jump a resistor on the back of the tach board.
pre-95 jump r109 resistor. 95-97 jump r73 resistor.
98+ VVTI years already have coilpacks so you are good to go.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-a-2jzgte.html

Hopefully the more people we can get to do it and input on what parts needed to be clearer, we can get it to a point where its easy and straight forward to do.
your setup looks alot like what I used to run, that t61 going to feel a whole lot better on the gte ecu.

I am really hoping the 2.5 bar motorolla map sensor will work, if it does it can make things simpler and should allow running either 440's or 550's with increased boost cut, as long as you are using an o2 sensor, which is a good thing on the GTE ecu.
with an Na-t on the Ge ecu, i wouldnt even try and run an o2 sensor.

Mine should be in the mail here tomorrow or day after I will keep you guys posted.

 

I got the caps replaced today and nothing it still sounds like a subaru lol so im just gonna go over my wiring again tomorrow and see if there is something i missed hopefully its a simple fix my car just seems like a elephant sits on the trunk at a certain rpm seems like its mostly when it starts to see boost wonder if there is any fuel cut issue or somthing of the sort and i dont have a 02 code either ali o yea the cars runs lean with a low idle if i let it sit and warm up to op temp

 

make sure the map sensor is plugged into a place that sees boost.
It would take 14 psi of boost for fuel cut to happen, and it would set the CEL.
I doubt that is happening in your case if its when it starts to see boost.

If you have no CEL codes, and its not the ecu thats fried, then maybe you have a decent sized vacuum leak.

 

I want your ECU. Sent you a PM.

 

is there a write up for the gte swap using the sc300 harness?

 

I believe that thread is called the aristo wiring nightmare or something like that.

If you are going single turbo, or TTC on the twins, its basically the same wiring you see in here because you don't have to worry about the stuff for controlling the twins, the sc300 harness does not have those wires. some wiring for the throttle body and tps are in the wrong place, but if you unwrap the tape on that part of the harness, you can actually pull those connectors back to the intake side for a GTE and hide the extra slack, no cutting involved but pins need to be flipped on the TPS. QuickSC knows what I am talking about.

If you want to control the factory twins like stock, you would have to add the handfull of wires for the vsv's from the GTE harness to the sc300 harness, or run new wires and connectors. if you take them from the GTE harness, you would have to extend these extra wires and run them alongside the main harness, or you can unwrap it and wrap them together. it should only be like 3-6 wires.
you can do the same thing for the ignition, instead of wiring it up manually, you can rip out the wires from the gte harness, extend them and use those in the GE harness.

I always find it easier to move stuff around in the bay, adding/extending a few wires than extending the entire GTE harness (if its JDM) and then dealing with wiring up the body plugs. If you get a USDM 2JZGTE harness (big $$) you wouldn't have to extend but it would still be a pain cause the body plugs dont match up.

 

Ali with aem how did you setup your ignition with the IS300 coils? rising edge or falling edge? and do you switch from rising to falling? do have to open the box?

 

all toyota's are falling edge. you just change it in the aem settings and you will have to resync the timing, it will go out of timing as soon as you change it from rising to falling.
don't forget to change coil 1 ignition phasing to 21.53 if you are talking about the V1, also requires you to reset the timing.

if you set the spark teeth to 12, you only need coils 1-3 turned on.
IF you set it to 24 which is what most have it at, you need to have both 1-3 and 6-8 turned on in the software.

btw the sensitivity settings in here are for the 7M CPS.
you can leave the stock sensitivity settings when running the dizzy, or check out my other thread for more info.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-settings.html

 

Not the crank input edge, I am talking about the Coil output Edge they are 2 different things.