2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#3151
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with the o2 it will just be correcting all the time so it will be ok as long as you dont make big throttle changes.
I think the b chip might be what you need to cure the issue. the maf tunes are sensitive, the fact that they have a A B and C chip tells me that you cant get away with a single turbo on a twin turbo tune with the usdm ecu.
on the JDM ecu it is able to correct, not that it is perfect or anything but it doesn't seem to get confused.
I think the b chip might be what you need to cure the issue. the maf tunes are sensitive, the fact that they have a A B and C chip tells me that you cant get away with a single turbo on a twin turbo tune with the usdm ecu.
on the JDM ecu it is able to correct, not that it is perfect or anything but it doesn't seem to get confused.
#3154
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yeah finding a b chip might be tricky. probably a wtb is the best way to go or search through vpc sale threads.
I think you also need bigger injectors with that B chip, like 680cc.
its so many variables to do all that work though I dunno how well it works or if you will like it, but the B chip sounds like it should be a whole lot closer in general.
I guess none of us really had a whole lot of usdm 2jzgte experience to know you might need a different chip.
I think you will need that and hope that works or just switch to something programmable seems to be the way to go for the usdm ecu. the map ecu would be better maybe keep an eye on ebay the mitsubishi and honda guys sell them from time to time and there is only one kind with a universal harness so it works on all the cars.
I can see on the map ecu that when I load a JDM map, for any pressure the output is the same for all the rpm cells, which makes tuning it rather easy which is why some can get away with just a safc.
For the USDM map the rpm values horizontally are different also, so that tells me that the whole map needs to be on so its not something you can do well with like an safc or anything.
so having the wrong chip is like running it with the wrong map, and even small changes can make a big difference. It seems trying the B chip might be worth a shot.
I am not positive about the vvti map sensors but I think they are the same as the non vvti. you can even use a 1jz non vvti one but they are usually pretty old by now so I say stick to the newer map sensors of a 2jz.
I think you also need bigger injectors with that B chip, like 680cc.
its so many variables to do all that work though I dunno how well it works or if you will like it, but the B chip sounds like it should be a whole lot closer in general.
I guess none of us really had a whole lot of usdm 2jzgte experience to know you might need a different chip.
I think you will need that and hope that works or just switch to something programmable seems to be the way to go for the usdm ecu. the map ecu would be better maybe keep an eye on ebay the mitsubishi and honda guys sell them from time to time and there is only one kind with a universal harness so it works on all the cars.
I can see on the map ecu that when I load a JDM map, for any pressure the output is the same for all the rpm cells, which makes tuning it rather easy which is why some can get away with just a safc.
For the USDM map the rpm values horizontally are different also, so that tells me that the whole map needs to be on so its not something you can do well with like an safc or anything.
so having the wrong chip is like running it with the wrong map, and even small changes can make a big difference. It seems trying the B chip might be worth a shot.
I am not positive about the vvti map sensors but I think they are the same as the non vvti. you can even use a 1jz non vvti one but they are usually pretty old by now so I say stick to the newer map sensors of a 2jz.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-03-16 at 04:35 PM.
#3155
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Honestly I think I can get away with my current injectors, the ecu is pulling 10% long term and I have an additional ± 10% at the vpc. I really don't want to get into another ecu unless its standalone. I'm going to post up a wtb now, I was pm'ing a couple before but no luck.
On that though, can you maintain obd2 with standalone or does that go out the window?
On that though, can you maintain obd2 with standalone or does that go out the window?
#3156
Driver
iTrader: (2)
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Alright. Got about 70 miles on the car after correcting the bad maf connection and I have one oddity left.
Car seems like waste gate opens at 5 to 7psi and I believe the spring is 7psi. It have an electronic boost solenoid off my bosst/afr gauge with a controller built it. It's set the same as before my issue (16-17psi). When the wg opens, the afr is 9.8 and it feels like the clutch is slipping although I think it's the motor bogging out. Any thoughts? The fix I put in for the map sensor was a whole new wire map to ecu. Could the boost controller be interrupted by no longer having a connection to the map? It has its own sensor and vacuum line...
Car seems like waste gate opens at 5 to 7psi and I believe the spring is 7psi. It have an electronic boost solenoid off my bosst/afr gauge with a controller built it. It's set the same as before my issue (16-17psi). When the wg opens, the afr is 9.8 and it feels like the clutch is slipping although I think it's the motor bogging out. Any thoughts? The fix I put in for the map sensor was a whole new wire map to ecu. Could the boost controller be interrupted by no longer having a connection to the map? It has its own sensor and vacuum line...
#3158
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
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Hey Pete,
Sounds like maybe there was a bad connection between the Apexi SAFC NEO and the map sensor wire. The SAFC intercepts the Map sensor voltage to adjust for the larger injectors. The new wire that you added now doesn't have the Apexi SAFC in line on it and is now not adjusting at all so it's way rich.
Here is Apexi's wiring diagram:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/ele...eo_diagram.pdf
Does the Innovate SCG-1 say " Boost controller off"? If so you may just have to toggle it back on, hold both the middle to buttons until it starts blinking and you can toggle through the settings to make sure its on.
The Boost controller starts oscillating wastegate duty cycle after the spring pressure is achieved which is why you hear it start opening at 8psi. The spring that is in the gate achieves 8psi which is why it slowly opens right around there.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...1%20Manual.pdf
Sounds like maybe there was a bad connection between the Apexi SAFC NEO and the map sensor wire. The SAFC intercepts the Map sensor voltage to adjust for the larger injectors. The new wire that you added now doesn't have the Apexi SAFC in line on it and is now not adjusting at all so it's way rich.
Here is Apexi's wiring diagram:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/ele...eo_diagram.pdf
Does the Innovate SCG-1 say " Boost controller off"? If so you may just have to toggle it back on, hold both the middle to buttons until it starts blinking and you can toggle through the settings to make sure its on.
The Boost controller starts oscillating wastegate duty cycle after the spring pressure is achieved which is why you hear it start opening at 8psi. The spring that is in the gate achieves 8psi which is why it slowly opens right around there.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...1%20Manual.pdf
Last edited by HiPSI; 05-03-16 at 05:06 PM.
#3160
Driver
iTrader: (2)
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Andrew- so when I thought I had a map sensor issue, there is a chance that this is still part of it. The map sensor goes to the safc, then out the safc to the ecu. Thus the continuity wouldn't ever exist on the map sensor wire from the sensor to the ecu.. is the SAFC connected in the passenger footwell?
#3162
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Honestly I think I can get away with my current injectors, the ecu is pulling 10% long term and I have an additional ± 10% at the vpc. I really don't want to get into another ecu unless its standalone. I'm going to post up a wtb now, I was pm'ing a couple before but no luck.
On that though, can you maintain obd2 with standalone or does that go out the window?
On that though, can you maintain obd2 with standalone or does that go out the window?
standalone does not support obd2 unless you wire it to keep the stock ecu also, which is well complicated.
Andrew- so when I thought I had a map sensor issue, there is a chance that this is still part of it. The map sensor goes to the safc, then out the safc to the ecu. Thus the continuity wouldn't ever exist on the map sensor wire from the sensor to the ecu.. is the SAFC connected in the passenger footwell?
#3163
Driver
iTrader: (2)
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yeah didn't realize you had a safc, then there wouldn't be continuity at the ecu you would have to check at the safc to map and safc to ecu. its possible then it was just the safc setting that needed adjusting and the wiring was ok then. if its running that rich put the safc back in the loop, put the right settings in for your ecu, and try and take out like 5% fuel or so until you get to a reasonable boost afr.