2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#3181
yeah the o2 sensors will help some if you get that right but if the "chip" or "tune" is that off then the o2 wont be fast enough to cure it. if the chip tune is close then yeah the o2's should do the rest of the job. I suspect there is something going on with the maf ecu and the twin turbo vs single turbo it does not like very much. the single turbo one might have worked but you need 680cc to test that properly.
you can mess around with the 550cc chip, but my gut is telling me its not going to work that much better than it was before cause its for the twins.
you can mess around with the 550cc chip, but my gut is telling me its not going to work that much better than it was before cause its for the twins.
#3182
I don't get why changing the vpc around in open loop changes the fuel mixture. Doesn't open loop just reference the ait and coolant for mixtures?
I think I have to put the maf back on to test this but the vpc is connected to pin 58 which could explain why it cuts fuel back and forth while trying to hold a steady rpm in open loop. I know the spark and fuel is there, not sure why it would stop ignition.
I think I have to put the maf back on to test this but the vpc is connected to pin 58 which could explain why it cuts fuel back and forth while trying to hold a steady rpm in open loop. I know the spark and fuel is there, not sure why it would stop ignition.
#3183
open loop just ignores the o2 sensors... it still uses the maf input, tps, iat and coolant sensors. so changing the vpc changes the maf input and that affects the fueling. unplugging the o2 sensors just lets you see what the afr is before correction, and that will give you an indication on if you have the right chip or not.
if the ecu has the wrong maf input for a given load, (like wrong vpc chip or dials set incorrectly) then it will not use the right timing for ignition or amount of fuel for spark, and you usually get misfires. if its generally close it will still run, but ideally when its running right there would be no misfires or cutting out etc...
you prolly wont get anywhere unless you run the 680cc chip with 680cc, or swap to a piggyback that you can fine tune without changing the chips or injectors.
if the ecu has the wrong maf input for a given load, (like wrong vpc chip or dials set incorrectly) then it will not use the right timing for ignition or amount of fuel for spark, and you usually get misfires. if its generally close it will still run, but ideally when its running right there would be no misfires or cutting out etc...
you prolly wont get anywhere unless you run the 680cc chip with 680cc, or swap to a piggyback that you can fine tune without changing the chips or injectors.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-24-16 at 01:44 PM.
#3184
So it really must be the chip tuning then.
I wonder if the stock ecu is cutting the fuel or the vpc is being that they are both hooked up to that pin 58, the car won't run without this connection at the vpc.
Also any chance there is a difference in signals between the stock 2jzgte igniter and the ds62?
I wonder if the stock ecu is cutting the fuel or the vpc is being that they are both hooked up to that pin 58, the car won't run without this connection at the vpc.
Also any chance there is a difference in signals between the stock 2jzgte igniter and the ds62?
Last edited by 187; 05-24-16 at 01:50 PM.
#3185
yeah its the tune or there is some kind of mechanical problem like not a good line to the map sensor or stuff like that. a boost leak would not help things either.
I think its the chip/tune though. I can tell you on my map ecu if I just change a few numbers by like 2% the whole car will drive differently and start cutting out when you tap the throttle etc... but put the right numbers in and it drives like a dream.
pin 58 is just the ignitor confirmation signal IGF, they are the same between those 2 ignitors, I have used both of them before.
The vpc uses it as an rpm signal. the ecu istelf will not run without a signal on 58 from the ignitor.
some diagrams show to connect b57 to the vpc, some are showing to connect b58.
I am not positive which is correct but I think its b58 when using more than one coil, I can only see b57 working on a one coil setup like stock n/a has.
I think its the chip/tune though. I can tell you on my map ecu if I just change a few numbers by like 2% the whole car will drive differently and start cutting out when you tap the throttle etc... but put the right numbers in and it drives like a dream.
pin 58 is just the ignitor confirmation signal IGF, they are the same between those 2 ignitors, I have used both of them before.
The vpc uses it as an rpm signal. the ecu istelf will not run without a signal on 58 from the ignitor.
some diagrams show to connect b57 to the vpc, some are showing to connect b58.
I am not positive which is correct but I think its b58 when using more than one coil, I can only see b57 working on a one coil setup like stock n/a has.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-24-16 at 02:12 PM.
#3186
Thanks for help again Ali, looks like I got some work cut out for me.
Edit- attached is what I'm working on right now, looking at the differences in the 550 and 680 chips (hex).
Edit- attached is what I'm working on right now, looking at the differences in the 550 and 680 chips (hex).
Last edited by 187; 05-26-16 at 02:02 PM.
#3187
My idle jumps up and down repetitively. It is not random either, it has a steady beat to it.
Aristo ecu, FFIM, q45 TB with q45 TPS, and stock IACV with welded flange. I'm guess either an vaccuum leak or a bad IACV.
This happened the other day but it lasted 15 seconds. Happened again yesterday and now it won't stop.
Aristo ecu, FFIM, q45 TB with q45 TPS, and stock IACV with welded flange. I'm guess either an vaccuum leak or a bad IACV.
This happened the other day but it lasted 15 seconds. Happened again yesterday and now it won't stop.
#3188
its probably the tps. if it doesn't read IDL at idle then it can hunt up and down. the fact that it hunts up and down means the iacv is working. could be a vac leak I supposed but most of the time its the tps.
since you are using the q45 tps, there is a decent chance its wired wrong or needs to be adjusted to read lower if its wired correct. I use the toyota tps adapter generally on my q45 so I dont know the exact wiring for it although someone did post it a while ago, its not the same as the gte wiring.
since you are using the q45 tps, there is a decent chance its wired wrong or needs to be adjusted to read lower if its wired correct. I use the toyota tps adapter generally on my q45 so I dont know the exact wiring for it although someone did post it a while ago, its not the same as the gte wiring.
#3189
I wish I could get ahold of a TPS adapter but they are sold out everywhere. Is there an alternative to a TPS adapter?
I adjusted the TPS to lowest rpm possible (rotated all the way left)
I adjusted the TPS to lowest rpm possible (rotated all the way left)
#3190
supposedly there is a correct way to wire it up to make the stock toyota ecu happy, but I never messed with it.
not sure about any alternatives other than wiring it up right or using the adapter and toyota tps.
which diagram did you follow, supposedly someone figured it out on here a couple years ago and posted it but I can't remember which thread its in. its specific for replacing the 2jzge tps.
if you followed the one for a 2jzgte tps it wont be right, cause when you look at the diagrams of a 2jzge vs 2jzgte tps, all four pins are flipped.
not sure about any alternatives other than wiring it up right or using the adapter and toyota tps.
which diagram did you follow, supposedly someone figured it out on here a couple years ago and posted it but I can't remember which thread its in. its specific for replacing the 2jzge tps.
if you followed the one for a 2jzgte tps it wont be right, cause when you look at the diagrams of a 2jzge vs 2jzgte tps, all four pins are flipped.
#3192
that looks like the one I was talking about...
assuming its wired right... other thing that does it sometimes is if you turn up the idle screw too much it wont read "idl" on the tps.
OR if you haven't ripped all that cold start crap off the side of the q45 throttle body, it tends to crack the throttle blade open a bunch until it warms up and that can make it not read idle also.
I would take all that crap off, and then back down the idle screw all the way. the car should idle at 650 rpm's and stop bouncing. give it a try.
assuming its wired right... other thing that does it sometimes is if you turn up the idle screw too much it wont read "idl" on the tps.
OR if you haven't ripped all that cold start crap off the side of the q45 throttle body, it tends to crack the throttle blade open a bunch until it warms up and that can make it not read idle also.
I would take all that crap off, and then back down the idle screw all the way. the car should idle at 650 rpm's and stop bouncing. give it a try.
#3193
All the cold start crap is off and the idle screw is set all the way down, but idles at 1000 rpm when hot (when it ran okay) but now this happens...
Last edited by joe diego; 06-03-16 at 06:33 PM.
#3194
To assist, I suggest you use a multimeter and reference the wiring diagram to set the tps voltage, and not go by rpm.