SOS
so i have a drift event on saturday and my engine will not spark. tested continituitt of all of my wiring snd it seams that the coils plugs have +b going to them and the other wires which go to the vvti ignitor arnt doing anything on my test light. when u tutn over the car none of the spark plugs are sparking. i downed my car for 2 months and it was running flawlessly. added a bunch of loom thst i never had when i orignal went na-t. now it wont spark. any ideas? anyway i can test signak coming from ecu?

 

The coils have 12v and the other wire gets grounded by the ignitor. are you sure they are not sparking?
it could be lots of things but its probably the wiring. a bad ecu or map sensor will spark still but fuel will be way off.
make sure the distributor connector is plugged in? also make sure the ground wire you add to the vvti ignitor has a good ground and dont mix up the wire for the tach with ground even though its black on some cars, it is not a ground.

 

Hey Ali, do you know what size studs are used for the oil return flange? I have a m8 drill bit and tap but the holes in my oil pan are definitely smaller than a m8, more on the m6 side. Should I drill the holes bigger to m8 or just use m6?

 

Its been a long time but I want to say its M8. Same size as alot of the studs on the intake manifold side (exhaust side the studs are usually M10 I want to say)
Drill it out a little larger if you can't get the tap started as it is. I wouldn't go down to M6 as the threads might not end up deep enough and it could strip out and that becomes a huge pain.

 

Any word on what fuel pump relay to use? Just need to order that, the power steering and fuel dampener bypass hoses and I'll have everything on hand for the swap! My buddy is building a 4 car garage as we speak and we'll be christening it with this project this winter!

 

I'm guess a smaller turbo would be the best, but can someone tell me what size turbo would work well with the aristo ECU without using a piggy back/EM?

 

what fuel pump are you using? If you want to put a denso or anything more than a walboro, then run regular automotive 12v relay that is triggered by the stock fuel ecu (drivers side B pillar thing behind seat).
if you are running a walboro you can probably just use the stock wiring and just change the pump.

anything in the 58mm to 64mm range would be a good match for the tt ecu mod, but it depends on how fast you want it to spool and how much power you want to make, along with quality 440cc injectors.

 

So i've got my fuel pump wired just jumped from the b+ to the fuel pump wire at the Fuel pump ECU. After a few hours of driving the pump is hot and my A/F ratio's go up. I soldered it and its a good connection so i just figured the pumps overheating, It is more drastic with less gas in the tank, with a full tank it never even happens until about half tank the numbers start going up.

Anyone else having this issue? Should i put a relay in? the pump will still be getting 12-14 volts all the time no?

 

 

What did you do with the gas tank vent in the engine bay? It goes to the charcoal canister stock which alot of people remove and do random stuff with the lines.

If it is at all plugged or not allowed to vent properly then it will create vacuum in the gas tank as the pump works, and the pump will over work itself and get hot since it has to fight the vacuum to push the fuel, and the air fuel ratios will lean out the more vacuum there is. Seen it quite a few times when people plug the vent line or do not route it into the engine right. It also gets worse the lower the tank level is because when you park it anywhere that gets hot or is in direct sunlight, the fuel starts to evap in the tank and pressurize some, which is why I mention that.

what type of pump is it? I doubt an in tank pump is overheating just from the wiring going to it, if it was that wiring alone then it would get super hot and/or the fuel ecu would pop pretty fast.
the pump itself being hot means its working too hard, or has some type of restriction. I would check the vent line.

Also the 12v relay the way mrmj2u said is the right way to run the relay triggered off the fuel ecu. it is not necessary with a walboro most of the time, but if you are running a denso I would do it so you don't pop the stock fuel ecu.

 

I do think i have it plugged off because i didnt want to send the charcoal canister boost from my intake... lol i need to get a one way check valve and put it inline so it can only suck.
I've got 2 oem supra tt denso fuel pumps because one started leaning out really bad after driving for a few hours and trying to do hard pulls in boost. They are not both in the car i just kept the old one incase it wasnt the problem. I bet your right i'm going to fix it and report back lol

 

That is 100% it, took me a while to figure it out when I had it routed wrong and it leans the afr out worse and worse as you run it. You should never plug that line, alot of people seem to do that and its dangerous for you and your engine.
it has nothing to do with the pump, it is leaning out cause there is no vent line. with the denso, do the 12v mod off triggered by the fuel ecu. don't bypass it completely not a great idea.

The canister actually has a one way check valve built into it, and one of the 2 vac lines going to it also has a check line. if you are using the stock or JDM ecu you can leave it more or less like stock and it'll be fine.

if you ever run an aftermarket ecu or just temporarily for now just take the tank vent line coming off the firewall (the big hose that went to the charcoal canister), and then add an extension bit of hose and run it to the line that was connected to the bottom of the charcoal canister, this line goes into the passnger fender and vents there. I would use one of those clear fuel filters you can get at the parts store, and use that as part of the extension piece, just to keep down on gas smells.

 

Well I got some good news and some bad news I guess. I got the car running and idling nice. Timing looks good engine revs good. It would idle at 14.6 now it idles at 12.5 but when i get on it, it starts off 14.5 and slowly goes down to where it should be. My issue i'm having now is that when i get to 0 on my boost gauge where it should be going into boost i just get a hard cut. If i slowly ease onto it then it goes into boost. My map sensor connector is broken. I ordered a new one, meanwhile i taped it nice and tight and it still cuts. Also after it cuts the car turns off when i come to a stop. Any thoughts on what the issue may be from? New connector is coming in next week.
If it changes anything i'm on open downpipe. I have a 8.70 psi spring in my wastegate, when i turn up the boost controller it seems to build boost faster and go into boost a little before it cuts.I was able to get up to 7psi while being super easy on throttle. Is my problem not enough air going in? Should I turn up the boost controller more? I'm not trying to go full throttle yet, I just want to be able to go into boost without issues, break in a few things then full throttle. You guys have been a big help. Its been a few years and i'm almost ready to go full throttle!

 

So i did have the canister already vented to atmosphere... i guess i must have seen it before and just forgot. The pumps just must be over heating in the tank a bit lol. OR i have a clogged line because when i go to fill my tank i do get a vacuum or pressurized air sound unscrewing the cap. Or is that normal?

 

davv, might be an intake piping leak or something with the map sensor.

SC, it can be normal but a fuel filter might not be a bad idea if you don't know when it was done.
I would do the 12v relay triggered off the fuel ecu, the denso might be a bit much for the stock fuel ecu also.