2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#3856
that is pretty strange never heard of it going between 1 and 16v. make sure you got the probe to touch the wire really well.
the ecu sounds like its doing what it is supposed to, it should have 5v on the 5v wire and also the signal wire until the map sensor is plugged in.
so if that middle wire from the map sensor goes all the way to pin b62 and the pin is seated right at the ecu, I would guess the map sensor is bad and get another map sensor that you can confirm works.
you can also test the map sensor off the car then to confirm if you want, give it 5v and ground and see what the middle pin puts out without being connected to anything. it should be 2.3V-2.6V or similar.
if it reads 0 or is doing that 1v to 16v thing, then it is fried. usually they read 0 so the swinging is a new one although I haven't encounetered too many personally (I have one good 2jz map sensor in my parts drawer and its not going anywhere lol).
also make sure the 3 pin connector on the map sensor, the pins are solid in the connector and making snug contact. any looseness there can also cause these issues, only mention it cause a swinging voltage like that almost sounds like a bad connection if it isn't a short inside the map sensor.
the ecu sounds like its doing what it is supposed to, it should have 5v on the 5v wire and also the signal wire until the map sensor is plugged in.
so if that middle wire from the map sensor goes all the way to pin b62 and the pin is seated right at the ecu, I would guess the map sensor is bad and get another map sensor that you can confirm works.
you can also test the map sensor off the car then to confirm if you want, give it 5v and ground and see what the middle pin puts out without being connected to anything. it should be 2.3V-2.6V or similar.
if it reads 0 or is doing that 1v to 16v thing, then it is fried. usually they read 0 so the swinging is a new one although I haven't encounetered too many personally (I have one good 2jz map sensor in my parts drawer and its not going anywhere lol).
also make sure the 3 pin connector on the map sensor, the pins are solid in the connector and making snug contact. any looseness there can also cause these issues, only mention it cause a swinging voltage like that almost sounds like a bad connection if it isn't a short inside the map sensor.
#3861
1zz coil pack install question. I'm looking at taking the IS300 coils out and putting in the 1zz coils. Let me know if I'm understanding the process correctly. So I wire the 6 IGT signal wires directly to the ECU and I bundle the 6 IGF signal wires into 1 and wire directly to ECU. Then simply supply 12v and ground to all 6 coils. So effectively this gets rid of the ignitor all together correct?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3863
#3864
No, the tach is the one thing that isn't super straight forward. I am assuming you are using this with the gte ecu?
Stock the tach signal normally goes from the ignitor, to I think the body plug by the ecu (part of engine harness/ignitor wiring) where it then goes to the cluster (on some cars it may go straight to the cluster separate from the engine harness wiring).
Now the 1ZZ coils bypass the ignitor, so there is no ignitor to provide the tach output anymore. on a standalone you would just use a spare output on the ecu to drive the tach.
With a stock ecu, I am not positive but I think you can use the combined IGF signal from the coils to also drive the tach. so you would find that tach wire at the body plug where it goes to the cluster, and tap it into the combined IGF line.
I would try this after getting the 1ZZ coils to work, just in case it doesn't work out for some reason. so once you get the 1zz coils working, then try connecting the tach wire to the IGF and see what happens.
If it drives the tach, then great. if not then will have to come up with another fix but I want to say there isn't much of a difference between the IGF signal and the tach signal waveform wise.
I am pretty sure that is why all the piggybacks like safc, map ecu, emanage, etc... all tap into the IGF signal for rpm. Just haven't done it with the 1zz coils myself so let me know how it works if you try it.
Stock the tach signal normally goes from the ignitor, to I think the body plug by the ecu (part of engine harness/ignitor wiring) where it then goes to the cluster (on some cars it may go straight to the cluster separate from the engine harness wiring).
Now the 1ZZ coils bypass the ignitor, so there is no ignitor to provide the tach output anymore. on a standalone you would just use a spare output on the ecu to drive the tach.
With a stock ecu, I am not positive but I think you can use the combined IGF signal from the coils to also drive the tach. so you would find that tach wire at the body plug where it goes to the cluster, and tap it into the combined IGF line.
I would try this after getting the 1ZZ coils to work, just in case it doesn't work out for some reason. so once you get the 1zz coils working, then try connecting the tach wire to the IGF and see what happens.
If it drives the tach, then great. if not then will have to come up with another fix but I want to say there isn't much of a difference between the IGF signal and the tach signal waveform wise.
I am pretty sure that is why all the piggybacks like safc, map ecu, emanage, etc... all tap into the IGF signal for rpm. Just haven't done it with the 1zz coils myself so let me know how it works if you try it.
#3867
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
Just so everyone knows how well this TT ecu thing works i'm running 20 psi in Denver at elevation and made 525, I do have a greddy Boost cut defender but its all the Ecu otherwise. It does go super rich right when the ecu detects boost but at 20 psi it starts getting back to 11.5 12.0/1 A/F ratios
#3868
Pole Position
^ Absolutely stellar numbers on a stock ECU! Great work. Nice to see some Denver guys reppin! I don't live too far down the street from Finish Line.