2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
10-17-20, 09:24 AM
#4156
Excuse me if I ask some weird questions, I am not a mechanic or not capable of doing the work myself, i want to do this but just want to be lead in the write direction before committing to someone to get the work done.
So if drop vvti gte, emissions won't be an issue as well?
The engine only has 83k
So if drop vvti gte, emissions won't be an issue as well?
The engine only has 83k
To Pass emissions you need OBD2 to work on your 98 car. Your OBD2 wont work with a japanese ecu.
IF your car was 95 or older and OBD1 you could pass emissions with this mod just fine and your engine would be stronger.
11-08-20, 11:42 PM
#4157
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Hey Ali I’m running the tt ecu thank you for all your help. I have an extra gte lower timing wheel, gte crank angle sensor, and I’m running a gte pump. I’m thinking of getting the golebys 2jzge distributor delete and trigger kit. If I wire the crank angle sensor and the golebys cam trigger sensor to the respected locations on the gte ecu, would it work as far as allowing me to run without the distributor completely or am I still missing a second cam angle sensor input to the ecu? Thanks !
11-09-20, 10:49 AM
#4158
Thanks Scsexy sometimes I think I gloss over the obvious parts, if you are vvti the only way you will pass emissions 100% of the time is to leave your vehicle completely stock, this mod will not help at all.
Tripas, the stock non vvti ecu is expecting 2 cam trigger sensors, tdc 1 and tdc6. I have not tried running it with only one cam sensor, so that is a good question.
Normally to keep full sequential injection, you run the non vvti 12 tooth wheel and 2 cam sensors, so it can tell tdc6 and tdc1 apart (the crank is just constant teeth with no break in the pattern for ecu to pick up).
on the vvti, you can do the same with a 36-2 crank wheel (2 missing teeth at tdc) and 1 cam trigger, so the ecu can tell where tdc 1 is from cam trigger aligning with missing teeth, and where 6 is when there is only missing tooth on crank without cam trigger aligning.
So if you take a non vvti ecu 12 tooth crank and 2 cam sensor inputs, and take away tdc6... the ecu will not be able to tell where td6 is until the first cam input which could be almost 2 revolutions.
some standalone like aemv1 deals with this by using batch fire during startup, and waiting till it gets sync'd etc.. and they usually don't start well.
I don't know how the stock ecu deals with it missing, but maybe toyota programmed in some sort of backup or limp mode, hard to say it will work 100% in that way without trying it.
So you may be able to unplug one of them and the stock gte ecu might figure it out, but it wont run as good or precise without the second cam input is my guess, I have honestly never tried it.
That is alot of work to get rid of the distributor completely and is out of the scope of the tt ecu mod.
You are not gaining any accuracy on your cam trigger its just aesthetics but instead you have a cam trigger hanging off the front of the engine so I am not sure its the way to go.
Really what you need I think is a standalone and a 36-2 vvti trigger wheel with a single cam trigger, and a tune, or swap on a clean ge vvti head and you will have your cam trigger.
Tripas, the stock non vvti ecu is expecting 2 cam trigger sensors, tdc 1 and tdc6. I have not tried running it with only one cam sensor, so that is a good question.
Normally to keep full sequential injection, you run the non vvti 12 tooth wheel and 2 cam sensors, so it can tell tdc6 and tdc1 apart (the crank is just constant teeth with no break in the pattern for ecu to pick up).
on the vvti, you can do the same with a 36-2 crank wheel (2 missing teeth at tdc) and 1 cam trigger, so the ecu can tell where tdc 1 is from cam trigger aligning with missing teeth, and where 6 is when there is only missing tooth on crank without cam trigger aligning.
So if you take a non vvti ecu 12 tooth crank and 2 cam sensor inputs, and take away tdc6... the ecu will not be able to tell where td6 is until the first cam input which could be almost 2 revolutions.
some standalone like aemv1 deals with this by using batch fire during startup, and waiting till it gets sync'd etc.. and they usually don't start well.
I don't know how the stock ecu deals with it missing, but maybe toyota programmed in some sort of backup or limp mode, hard to say it will work 100% in that way without trying it.
So you may be able to unplug one of them and the stock gte ecu might figure it out, but it wont run as good or precise without the second cam input is my guess, I have honestly never tried it.
That is alot of work to get rid of the distributor completely and is out of the scope of the tt ecu mod.
You are not gaining any accuracy on your cam trigger its just aesthetics but instead you have a cam trigger hanging off the front of the engine so I am not sure its the way to go.
Really what you need I think is a standalone and a 36-2 vvti trigger wheel with a single cam trigger, and a tune, or swap on a clean ge vvti head and you will have your cam trigger.
11-09-20, 06:11 PM
#4159
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Thanks Scsexy sometimes I think I gloss over the obvious parts, if you are vvti the only way you will pass emissions 100% of the time is to leave your vehicle completely stock, this mod will not help at all.
Tripas, the stock non vvti ecu is expecting 2 cam trigger sensors, tdc 1 and tdc6. I have not tried running it with only one cam sensor, so that is a good question.
Normally to keep full sequential injection, you run the non vvti 12 tooth wheel and 2 cam sensors, so it can tell tdc6 and tdc1 apart (the crank is just constant teeth with no break in the pattern for ecu to pick up).
on the vvti, you can do the same with a 36-2 crank wheel (2 missing teeth at tdc) and 1 cam trigger, so the ecu can tell where tdc 1 is from cam trigger aligning with missing teeth, and where 6 is when there is only missing tooth on crank without cam trigger aligning.
So if you take a non vvti ecu 12 tooth crank and 2 cam sensor inputs, and take away tdc6... the ecu will not be able to tell where td6 is until the first cam input which could be almost 2 revolutions.
some standalone like aemv1 deals with this by using batch fire during startup, and waiting till it gets sync'd etc.. and they usually don't start well.
I don't know how the stock ecu deals with it missing, but maybe toyota programmed in some sort of backup or limp mode, hard to say it will work 100% in that way without trying it.
So you may be able to unplug one of them and the stock gte ecu might figure it out, but it wont run as good or precise without the second cam input is my guess, I have honestly never tried it.
That is alot of work to get rid of the distributor completely and is out of the scope of the tt ecu mod.
You are not gaining any accuracy on your cam trigger its just aesthetics but instead you have a cam trigger hanging off the front of the engine so I am not sure its the way to go.
Really what you need I think is a standalone and a 36-2 vvti trigger wheel with a single cam trigger, and a tune, or swap on a clean ge vvti head and you will have your cam trigger.
Tripas, the stock non vvti ecu is expecting 2 cam trigger sensors, tdc 1 and tdc6. I have not tried running it with only one cam sensor, so that is a good question.
Normally to keep full sequential injection, you run the non vvti 12 tooth wheel and 2 cam sensors, so it can tell tdc6 and tdc1 apart (the crank is just constant teeth with no break in the pattern for ecu to pick up).
on the vvti, you can do the same with a 36-2 crank wheel (2 missing teeth at tdc) and 1 cam trigger, so the ecu can tell where tdc 1 is from cam trigger aligning with missing teeth, and where 6 is when there is only missing tooth on crank without cam trigger aligning.
So if you take a non vvti ecu 12 tooth crank and 2 cam sensor inputs, and take away tdc6... the ecu will not be able to tell where td6 is until the first cam input which could be almost 2 revolutions.
some standalone like aemv1 deals with this by using batch fire during startup, and waiting till it gets sync'd etc.. and they usually don't start well.
I don't know how the stock ecu deals with it missing, but maybe toyota programmed in some sort of backup or limp mode, hard to say it will work 100% in that way without trying it.
So you may be able to unplug one of them and the stock gte ecu might figure it out, but it wont run as good or precise without the second cam input is my guess, I have honestly never tried it.
That is alot of work to get rid of the distributor completely and is out of the scope of the tt ecu mod.
You are not gaining any accuracy on your cam trigger its just aesthetics but instead you have a cam trigger hanging off the front of the engine so I am not sure its the way to go.
Really what you need I think is a standalone and a 36-2 vvti trigger wheel with a single cam trigger, and a tune, or swap on a clean ge vvti head and you will have your cam trigger.
11-10-20, 10:33 AM
#4160
Yeah this mod isn't really made for having a 2jzgte clone that is super aesthetically pleasing without a whole bunch of work (a ffim, dizzy cap and gte valvecovers gets pretty close though).
You could always pull the wire to one of the cam sensor triggers on the distributor plug and see what happens, but I think it will revert to a batch setup like a 1jz and it won't perform as good.
You can still run the crank off the oil pump with the 12 tooth gte crank wheel as it is more reliable if you are having pickup issues with the dizzy (mostly on standalones, toyota ecus seem to pick them up pretty well).
The cam sensor is a single tooth per 2 revolutions and the standalones don't usually have a problem picking that up, its the crank that gets harder to pickup with lots of teeth and speed etc.. where standalones aren't always fine tuned to the correct sensitivity.
You could always pull the wire to one of the cam sensor triggers on the distributor plug and see what happens, but I think it will revert to a batch setup like a 1jz and it won't perform as good.
You can still run the crank off the oil pump with the 12 tooth gte crank wheel as it is more reliable if you are having pickup issues with the dizzy (mostly on standalones, toyota ecus seem to pick them up pretty well).
The cam sensor is a single tooth per 2 revolutions and the standalones don't usually have a problem picking that up, its the crank that gets harder to pickup with lots of teeth and speed etc.. where standalones aren't always fine tuned to the correct sensitivity.
11-12-20, 04:48 PM
#4161
Yeah this mod isn't really made for having a 2jzgte clone that is super aesthetically pleasing without a whole bunch of work (a ffim, dizzy cap and gte valvecovers gets pretty close though).
You could always pull the wire to one of the cam sensor triggers on the distributor plug and see what happens, but I think it will revert to a batch setup like a 1jz and it won't perform as good.
You can still run the crank off the oil pump with the 12 tooth gte crank wheel as it is more reliable if you are having pickup issues with the dizzy (mostly on standalones, toyota ecus seem to pick them up pretty well).
The cam sensor is a single tooth per 2 revolutions and the standalones don't usually have a problem picking that up, its the crank that gets harder to pickup with lots of teeth and speed etc.. where standalones aren't always fine tuned to the correct sensitivity.
You could always pull the wire to one of the cam sensor triggers on the distributor plug and see what happens, but I think it will revert to a batch setup like a 1jz and it won't perform as good.
You can still run the crank off the oil pump with the 12 tooth gte crank wheel as it is more reliable if you are having pickup issues with the dizzy (mostly on standalones, toyota ecus seem to pick them up pretty well).
The cam sensor is a single tooth per 2 revolutions and the standalones don't usually have a problem picking that up, its the crank that gets harder to pickup with lots of teeth and speed etc.. where standalones aren't always fine tuned to the correct sensitivity.
I lost 4 psi of boost putting the cat on.... down to 16 vs 20 i was at. I even tried putting my manual boost controller on but it will only let it spike to 18 and it like surges between 16 and 18.
11-13-20, 09:41 PM
#4163
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Hey, Im in the process of wiring my 2jz ge vvti na-t into my 1993 sc300 and im wondering if you have the pinout for the factory '93 sc300 ecu. Im using an aristo ecu and i was going to use the stock harness and connect the aristo ecu to it then add the rest of the sensors i need like vvti, cam sensor ect. The harness that came with the aristo ecu was cut up so it seemed like it might be easier to do it this way. Thanks!
11-16-20, 09:12 AM
#4164
The vvti and non vvti have completely different connectors so you would have to rewire basically all of it and that is not a good way to do it.
If you plan on using the aristo VVTI ecu you probably want to find a vvti SC300 harness that would be more plug and play and sell your non vvti harness.
If you were running a standalone that plugs into a non vvti harness, and then adding couple extra things for vvti, that would be different as that could use the old non vvti plug and do what you want.
I have never heard of anyone rewiring a non vvti harness completely to use a vvti factory ecu (which is basically a stock 98+sc300 harness).
The factory vvti ecu is also picky and the drive by wire throttle body seems to have constant issues for those who run them, GE vvti and na-t or just regular GTE vvti all have random throttle body issues.
I would suggest getting a standalone that plugs into your non vvti ecu then and add what you need and tune for it
If you plan on using the aristo VVTI ecu you probably want to find a vvti SC300 harness that would be more plug and play and sell your non vvti harness.
If you were running a standalone that plugs into a non vvti harness, and then adding couple extra things for vvti, that would be different as that could use the old non vvti plug and do what you want.
I have never heard of anyone rewiring a non vvti harness completely to use a vvti factory ecu (which is basically a stock 98+sc300 harness).
The factory vvti ecu is also picky and the drive by wire throttle body seems to have constant issues for those who run them, GE vvti and na-t or just regular GTE vvti all have random throttle body issues.
I would suggest getting a standalone that plugs into your non vvti ecu then and add what you need and tune for it
11-23-20, 12:38 PM
#4165
Its a pleasure to report i passed the Colorado emissions test!!
They didn't even care about my egr??? its not on the list of equipment for them to test.
I failed the first time by .05 hydrocarbons. 1.50 required i had 1.55 I drove the car on the highway got it nice and hot(15mins), put 2 gallons of e85 in the tank
Second test i failed by .01 hyrocarbons.... 1.50 required i had 1.516 Drove the car across town to the other emissions place (30 mins) and put another 2 gallons of e85 in the tank
PASS 1.31 hydro carbons with 1.50 being the limit.
i passed everything else the CO CO2 and NOX everytime by like half the limit.
They didn't even care about my egr??? its not on the list of equipment for them to test.
I failed the first time by .05 hydrocarbons. 1.50 required i had 1.55 I drove the car on the highway got it nice and hot(15mins), put 2 gallons of e85 in the tank
Second test i failed by .01 hyrocarbons.... 1.50 required i had 1.516 Drove the car across town to the other emissions place (30 mins) and put another 2 gallons of e85 in the tank
PASS 1.31 hydro carbons with 1.50 being the limit.
i passed everything else the CO CO2 and NOX everytime by like half the limit.
12-07-20, 05:23 PM
#4166
Question. How are the vvti coil packs supposed to be secure if the 93-96 NA heads dont have screw holes inside to tie anything down? Wouldn't they pop out over time or just bounce around?
01-13-21, 06:54 PM
#4168
Alright boys and girls,
Just started doing this.
Hopefully, it goes by quickly and properly... Lol.
Tt ECU mod first and then booosttt.
Thanks for the guidance, mr. Ali.
Mr. Gill
Just started doing this.
Hopefully, it goes by quickly and properly... Lol.
Tt ECU mod first and then booosttt.
Thanks for the guidance, mr. Ali.
Mr. Gill
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Ali SC3 (01-14-21)
