2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-07-12, 06:30 AM
#406
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I have the oEM screw on with 4 wires just pay for shipping USPS flat rate box. Hopefully that's your Issue.
did you replace the boot on the bottom of the coils? if you didn't please do, and then try a 7 psi spring to see if you get any break up.
Turn the boost down till you get everything worked out.
did you replace the boot on the bottom of the coils? if you didn't please do, and then try a 7 psi spring to see if you get any break up.
Turn the boost down till you get everything worked out.
09-07-12, 11:31 AM
#407
how are you boosting 16 when your spring is 7?
you hook up the line from the turbo or intake to the side port on the wastegate.
If thats not working then you may have a bad wastegate or related issue.
the 4 wire o2's need to be wired in, i posted the info somewhere in this thread, i will try and see if I can find it.
the 4 wire ones will work best, but the stock one should work.
mine idles at perfect 14.8 with the stock o2 sensor, except for the first few drives after resetting the ecu it will want to idle at like 11.0-12.0
@ 14 psi of boost my AFR is 10.0 which is solid rich. This just reinforces what I thought about the TT ecu, it was designed to be so conservative, that you can turn up the boost alot and be just fine. They really seem to have designed it knowing that everyone would slap a boost controller on it with a BCC, cause from what I am seeing the fuel at 14 psi can easily support more than 14 psi... this is just with the 440's.
I am pretty sure the timing in boost is just as conservative. which is why you can get away running it on higher compression motors to a certain point. the timing when just regular driving though seems to be less conservative, i think to help make the lower compression motor feel stronger out of boost, but at the end of the day you aren't going to blow anything out of boost, and can pull a few degrees via the dizzy if needed.
you hook up the line from the turbo or intake to the side port on the wastegate.
If thats not working then you may have a bad wastegate or related issue.
the 4 wire o2's need to be wired in, i posted the info somewhere in this thread, i will try and see if I can find it.
the 4 wire ones will work best, but the stock one should work.
mine idles at perfect 14.8 with the stock o2 sensor, except for the first few drives after resetting the ecu it will want to idle at like 11.0-12.0
@ 14 psi of boost my AFR is 10.0 which is solid rich. This just reinforces what I thought about the TT ecu, it was designed to be so conservative, that you can turn up the boost alot and be just fine. They really seem to have designed it knowing that everyone would slap a boost controller on it with a BCC, cause from what I am seeing the fuel at 14 psi can easily support more than 14 psi... this is just with the 440's.
I am pretty sure the timing in boost is just as conservative. which is why you can get away running it on higher compression motors to a certain point. the timing when just regular driving though seems to be less conservative, i think to help make the lower compression motor feel stronger out of boost, but at the end of the day you aren't going to blow anything out of boost, and can pull a few degrees via the dizzy if needed.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-07-12 at 11:36 AM.
09-07-12, 12:40 PM
#408
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[QUOTE=Ali SC3;7470738]how are you boosting 16 when your spring is 7?
you hook up the line from the turbo or intake to the side port on the wastegate.
If thats not working then you may have a bad wastegate or related issue.
the 4 wire o2's need to be wired in, i posted the info somewhere in this thread, i will try and see if I can find it.
the 4 wire ones will work best, but the stock one should work.
mine idles at perfect 14.8 with the stock o2 sensor, except for the first few drives after resetting the ecu it will want to idle at like 11.0-12.0
@ 14 psi of boost my AFR is 10.0 which is solid rich. This just reinforces what I thought about the TT ecu, it was designed to be so conservative, that you can turn up the boost alot and be just fine. They really seem to have designed it knowing that everyone would slap a boost controller on it with a BCC, cause from what I am seeing the fuel at 14 psi can easily support more than 14 psi... this is just with the 440's.
I am pretty sure the timing in boost is just as conservative. which is why you can get away running it on higher compression motors to a certain point. the timing when just regular driving though seems to be less conservative, i think to help make the lower compression motor feel stronger out of boost, but at the end of the day you aren't going to blow anything out of boost, and can pull a few degrees via the dizzy if needed.[/QUOTE
Yea mine never got that high it was always at around 12 ish yea I think either the boost controller (ebay) or the wasgate (tial) is bad I'm leaning towards the boost controller tho as rich as the car is running I should see smoke coming out of the wg when boost hits but there is barely any sign of exhaust in the dump tube I'm gonna unhook the fleabay crap when I get off work and I will have a whole 4 days of lab work yea maybe I should just wire up the 4 wire o2 quicksc4 check pm bro
you hook up the line from the turbo or intake to the side port on the wastegate.
If thats not working then you may have a bad wastegate or related issue.
the 4 wire o2's need to be wired in, i posted the info somewhere in this thread, i will try and see if I can find it.
the 4 wire ones will work best, but the stock one should work.
mine idles at perfect 14.8 with the stock o2 sensor, except for the first few drives after resetting the ecu it will want to idle at like 11.0-12.0
@ 14 psi of boost my AFR is 10.0 which is solid rich. This just reinforces what I thought about the TT ecu, it was designed to be so conservative, that you can turn up the boost alot and be just fine. They really seem to have designed it knowing that everyone would slap a boost controller on it with a BCC, cause from what I am seeing the fuel at 14 psi can easily support more than 14 psi... this is just with the 440's.
I am pretty sure the timing in boost is just as conservative. which is why you can get away running it on higher compression motors to a certain point. the timing when just regular driving though seems to be less conservative, i think to help make the lower compression motor feel stronger out of boost, but at the end of the day you aren't going to blow anything out of boost, and can pull a few degrees via the dizzy if needed.[/QUOTE
Yea mine never got that high it was always at around 12 ish yea I think either the boost controller (ebay) or the wasgate (tial) is bad I'm leaning towards the boost controller tho as rich as the car is running I should see smoke coming out of the wg when boost hits but there is barely any sign of exhaust in the dump tube I'm gonna unhook the fleabay crap when I get off work and I will have a whole 4 days of lab work yea maybe I should just wire up the 4 wire o2 quicksc4 check pm bro
09-07-12, 05:06 PM
#411
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This is a vid of how the car is running feel free to chime in!!!
*******Problem Solved o2 Sensor was grounding out replaced with another universal runs better than before********
Last edited by SixSense; 09-08-12 at 10:41 AM.
09-08-12, 01:15 PM
#412
Well... I can't even get my car to start. Occasionally it pops once, but that's it.
I verified that I'm getting spark when I'm supposed to by painting different colored spots 8 teeth apart on the cam sprocket, then shooting them with a timing light with the clamp on the appropriate plug wire. That tells me my igniter and wiring are correct.
I validated that the signal wire from the MAP goes to pin 62 on the big plug.
I have validated that I'm getting injector pulse on every injector by hooking LED's to the wire the ECU grounds. I have to assume the injector timing is correct, since the pins are the same between the GE and GTE.
I know I'm getting fuel pressure because I hot wired the fuel pump at the diag connector and grounded an injector and saw it spray fuel into the cylinder.
I did initially get a bad MAP sensor. The voltage didn't change on the center pin when changing the pressure via syringe. I now have another one that bench tests good. I drilled and tapped a new port on the intake so it doesn't have to share the pressure signal with BOV's or FPR or anything.
I then discovered that 2 of my 6 "re-manufactured" fuel injectors were crap. I hooked them to a fuel pump and manually powered them. 4 sprayed and 2 wouldn't even click. I have now replaced them with 6 that tested good.
I replaced my HG long ago, so I know my valve timing and compression are OK.
I don't know if my IAT is good, but it should start fine w/o one at all. It's throwing a code 47 for sub throttle position sensor, but I don't think that should keep it from starting either.
What am I missing? I have fuel, air, spark, compression and it's properly timed. It's got to be injector pulse width, right?
I verified that I'm getting spark when I'm supposed to by painting different colored spots 8 teeth apart on the cam sprocket, then shooting them with a timing light with the clamp on the appropriate plug wire. That tells me my igniter and wiring are correct.
I validated that the signal wire from the MAP goes to pin 62 on the big plug.
I have validated that I'm getting injector pulse on every injector by hooking LED's to the wire the ECU grounds. I have to assume the injector timing is correct, since the pins are the same between the GE and GTE.
I know I'm getting fuel pressure because I hot wired the fuel pump at the diag connector and grounded an injector and saw it spray fuel into the cylinder.
I did initially get a bad MAP sensor. The voltage didn't change on the center pin when changing the pressure via syringe. I now have another one that bench tests good. I drilled and tapped a new port on the intake so it doesn't have to share the pressure signal with BOV's or FPR or anything.
I then discovered that 2 of my 6 "re-manufactured" fuel injectors were crap. I hooked them to a fuel pump and manually powered them. 4 sprayed and 2 wouldn't even click. I have now replaced them with 6 that tested good.
I replaced my HG long ago, so I know my valve timing and compression are OK.
I don't know if my IAT is good, but it should start fine w/o one at all. It's throwing a code 47 for sub throttle position sensor, but I don't think that should keep it from starting either.
What am I missing? I have fuel, air, spark, compression and it's properly timed. It's got to be injector pulse width, right?
09-08-12, 04:02 PM
#413
Lexus Test Driver
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I don't think the Ford Setup wil work with the stock ecu i am not sure though, but i remember in the aem when you select the coils you are running you select all coils except ford CDI or something like that. I am picking up my laptop that i use for my car tomorrow , so i'll check it and let you know.
I think it's your coils and ignitor setup , you have too many mismatch parts on that stock ecu but i maybe wrong.
I think it's your coils and ignitor setup , you have too many mismatch parts on that stock ecu but i maybe wrong.
09-08-12, 11:33 PM
#416
you are running 440cc high impedance injectors right?
also did you have to bypass the pump or just to make sure?
no one has used a 7m cps yet, not even sure if the TT ecu can pick it up properly.
also G1 and G2 may be swapped, not really sure which is why I always tell everyone to use the distributor base for first start. it creates too many variables to be honest, cause not all of them work right.
also did you have to bypass the pump or just to make sure?
no one has used a 7m cps yet, not even sure if the TT ecu can pick it up properly.
also G1 and G2 may be swapped, not really sure which is why I always tell everyone to use the distributor base for first start. it creates too many variables to be honest, cause not all of them work right.
09-09-12, 05:43 AM
#417
you are running 440cc high impedance injectors right?
also did you have to bypass the pump or just to make sure?
no one has used a 7m cps yet, not even sure if the TT ecu can pick it up properly.
also G1 and G2 may be swapped, not really sure which is why I always tell everyone to use the distributor base for first start. it creates too many variables to be honest, cause not all of them work right.
also did you have to bypass the pump or just to make sure?
no one has used a 7m cps yet, not even sure if the TT ecu can pick it up properly.
also G1 and G2 may be swapped, not really sure which is why I always tell everyone to use the distributor base for first start. it creates too many variables to be honest, cause not all of them work right.
I'm using 7MGTE 440's with a 10 OHM resistor pack.
The fuel pump runs on its own, I just hot wired it for testing.