MrGi11

Hey boss and crew,Hope everyone is doing well!

The 34 code went away right after I installed a brand new Map Sensor. Before starting it, I checked the codes and it was only 21 and 47, after I cranked it a few times, I noticed code 14 came up as well. So, the current codes are only 14,21 and 47.



However, the glimmer of hope here today is, I felt it stutter just for a second when I pushed the gas pedal a few times like it wants to turn over, but didn't. At the same time, after every non start I kept going to the engine bay to play with the dizzyt base. I will try tomorrow in daylight so I can see everything in living color.

what should I start trouble shooting with? This are some things I'm thinking...

-igniter? The wires still are in the connectors, need to solder still
-adjust the tps?
-im still using the old spark plugs, because I didn't want the new ones fouling. Also coil packs were OEM used. Wires are new.
- I still got 1/4 tank of gas.
-battery might be weak? It was disconnected the whole time, from Jan 11 till about last week. I leave it disconnected after I'm done messing with trying to start it. Dunno if that is advisable.
-i made sure I heard solid clicks when I put in the new pins in the ECU
-correct me if I'm wrong, maybe it was on YouTube, but I heard someone having a no start or hard start, doing this mod, and then the fuel pump ecu bypass and were successful. -dunno what else to think. Help me , I miss driving her.

Have a good night, and sorry for disturbing.

Very respectfully,
Rishi

scsexy

iTrader: (1)

Dude, its really not as hard as your making it out to be. YOU CLEARLY WIRED SOMETHING WRONG

Double and triple check all the pins are where they are suppose to be and the grounds and powers are good... I think your new ds62 ignitor is wired incorrectly.

****ing with the distributor is not a way to trouble shoot. You should have left it where it was when the car ran. The new ECU controls your ignition timing now and the distributor moving doesn't do much because the ECU auto corrects it and pulls timing or adds it. I've had my timing turned up trying to get extra power at the track and there was no difference.

If you dont hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on then u may need to do the 12volt fuel pump mod. Theres an ECU PIN in the engine bay where u can just connected FP with B12 with a paperclip and make sure the fuel pump is getting full power for your tests.

Check out a picture of somones TPS installed correctly and put yours there. Its alittle bit to one side but i have to run to work and dont have time to grab a picture for you.

All these cars have code 47 because we dont have the traction control throttle body the ECU wants it doesnt affect anything though.
Code 14 is ignitor circuit. you have it wired wrong or its bad.
Code 21 is O2 sensor wired wrong or bad O2 . Wont affect start up....

FOCUS ON CODE 14

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You can try jumping the FP and B+ in the diagnostic connector which will give power (B+) to the fuel pump (FP). You should hear fuel running through the rail when you do this and going back to the tank.
This is also how I check for leaks before trying to start the engine if I have cracked any of the fuel rail fitting open etc.. better to check it without the engine running for safety reasons and not starting a fire if there is a leak.
You said you felt it stutter and try and turn over, so it may be powering the fuel pump just fine but it is hard to say with all the different combos and yours is a JDM model, worth a try to see maybe the signals changed at some point.

I would check over the ignitor wiring again, and the order of the coilpacks on the engine, check the connectors on the coils. Make sure you didn't mix up the tach wire as a ground wire etc, the new ignitor needs a ground and the old ignitor does not have one.
I would also reset the ecu since you replaced the map sensor, it might have had bad learned values from when it wasn't working properly before.
Code 14 means there was no confirmed IGF signal, which means the coils aren't all firing off right, but that doesn't mean the ignitor is 100% the problem, just anything that could keep the plug from firing correctly.
sometimes people have gotten bad sets of coils, the sets I have used worked fine but it can vary with used parts so that is another possibility... but all 3 would have to be bad to not have it turn over at least to try and start.

I wouldn't mess with the distributor too much, better to leave it where it was if you marked it before put it back close to the same spot.
I wouldn't mess with the tps either until it is running. you probably want to invest in a charger, it wouldn't hurt to have it fully charged up before attempting a first start as not everything is dialed in yet with the timing and learning etc..

MrGi11

Bro, thanks. I will look into it and let yall know. I appreciate it.

@ali - thanks for the info again my man. Will try everything out this weekend. I appreciate you.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

No worries, just keep at it and you'll get it working like everyone else and become an expert at it. Always tricky doing it the first time!
All the tt ecu needs to start and run other than what is there is the ignitor/coil stuff to be wired correctly and a map signal.
Everything else just affects how it runs.
So definitely check over the ignitor wiring again, and the stock coil should be unplugged, but there is a 2 wire connector usually mounted near it with a little grey box, that is a noise filter and should be left plugged in, do not remove the noise filter.

MrGi11

Yessssss!!! It's alive!!


Thank you, all of you, you especially, @Ali SC3

Cheers!!!

🤙🏾🍾🍻❤️🙏

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Sounds pretty good to me!!

MrGi11

I have to tell you, brother... It pulls way hard. Like, it's at least 3x more powerful pick up when you hit the gas even at half or slowly depressing it.

Does feel kinda loose, I dunno because of me driving my other car, I feel that way or what.. 🤷🏽‍♂️ but, it's definitely louder than before.

Thanks again, man.

Cheers!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That's good news even without the turbo yet!! just wait till you strap the snail on there.
The map sensor tends to run a little richer than the maf setup does especially on tip in and whenever you hit open loop, which makes for good torque
It may quiet down a hair after the ecu starts to learn, but it is a Supra so I would sit back and enjoy the music

MrGi11

I couldn't find this on google regarding the code 55 on a tt ecu mod but it's popping up after a few minutes of driving?

What can I do to remedy this, for TT cars it's a shielded wire on the block or something? What can I do for this code?

Sorry for the constant questions man. Didn't know if it was safe or not to drive like that.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think that is the knock sensor code. probably had the wire going to it break if you pulled the connector to help remove the intake manifold.
I would check over the connector, and the wire right where it goes into the connector as it usually splits around there.

It is a shielded wire, so if it is a broken wire you will need to peel back the shielding, and inside you will see a very small insulated wire.
remove that inner insulation with like a loose blade, repair the wire, shrink wrap or tape it very well, and then pull the insulation back over it again.
The shielded insulation is grounded, so it cannot touch the inside wire. chances are it is either disconnected, broken, or cut and touching now which is why the code is popping up.

It would be fine to drive around like that without a turbo, I doubt you are going to get serious knock on the stock ecu with good gas in the tank, assuming you got the base timing set to around 8-10 (with the jumper in the diagnostic port).
If it starts sputtering or running badly, or jerking in cruise then you may want to stop until you fix it.
I bet once you look down there you will see the issue, likely a cracked connector or the wire is coming apart or crimped/crushed etc..
It happens, I have yet to take off a whole 20 year old harness without breaking a connector lol.

If you car has been sitting for a while, get some good gas in it also, never hurts

trancuongv

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,

I just finished up the tt ecu mod and I'm currently getting no spark. Definitely have fuel pressure. I checked my wiring at the ecu and did a continuity test on pin 52 & 57, 53 & 56 and 54 & 55 with two wires combined for 53 and 56 and 54 and 55. Using the current wiring for pins 52 and 57, which in my case is white with green stripe. 1997 SC300. Checked for power at the coils and the igniter and it checked out at 12 volts. Checked the IGF and am getting 5 volts. Also I ran the negative wire from the DS62 igniter to negative side of battery. Even removed spark plug wire 1 and put a screwdriver in it and still no spark. Did the same thing to coil number 2 as well. Same results. I did move pin B66 to B62 at the ecu. Also, I did screw in the bolt that attaches the ecu plug back into the ecu. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

CT

Crevasse

*apologies for posting this again, accidentally replied to the wrong thread*

Ali,

I have been working on installing the NA-T ECU mod with an Aristo ECU over the past couple weeks and this afternoon I finally got the car to turn over. However, the idle is extremely rough to the point there it stalls and dies unless I give it gas. While it's idling, I can hear the IACV sucking in air and if I put my hand over the IACV intake I can feel suction and the car will stall, so it seems like that is working. My first thought was obviously to check for vacuum leaks, but I haven't seen anything obvious. Every single port on the intake manifold either has a vacuum line or is capped, the manifold and runners are tight and the throttle body is tight. I did not, however, plug in the brown connector for the vacuum canister nor the blue VSV connector + vac lines in step #8 of the guide. I assumed that since I was not using the stock GE crossover manifold and I completely removed the EGR system, that I would not need to mess with all those VSVs/vac hardlines, but I've never done this before so I could be wrong. I thought that as long as air wasn't getting into the intake manifold somehow through a vacuum leak, I would be good.

My build info for reference:
JZS147 Aristo GTE ECU (automatic ECU)
R150 manual swapped
OsideTiger 440CC injectors
OEM GTE Map Sensor (vac line is connected)
OEM GTE IAT Sensor
OEM non-VVTi GTE Intake manifold (using adapter flange)
EGR Delete (JDM GTE FFIM doesn't have EGR, removed the entire EGR system and used a block off plate on the 2JZGE block side)
2JZGE VVTi coil setup w/DS62 Igniter/using distributor as my CPS
OEM LS400 IACV

The engine idles so poorly that I can't even shift into 1st or reverse--it just kills the engine because it can't handle the load. Unfortunately I ran out of gas as well (tank was almost empty on purpose when I started the project) so I can't go out and test anything until tomorrow. Let me know if there is any other info I can provide.

Thanks!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That is an interesting one, probably a wiring issue somewhere if you are getting no spark at all. it should have spark until the motor fires off and if no IGF then it will shut down, but you should get spark at first.
Looks like some of those pins aren't seated in the ignitor connector all the way, you have to really wiggle them in there, and be sure to replace the locking tab plastic piece on the connector before plugging it back in.
If you don't do all the steps it is possible for the pins to push out enough to not work properly.
Some have had bad coils bot most have some work at least, check the coil connectors those are known to give issues if the lock tab is broken which is easy to break when removing them, sliding the connector on is not enough it needs to lock in.

Do you have the check engine light showing anything? Sounds to me like a bad map sensor, I would check it with key on engine off and see what the output wire is reading. if it is 1.5-2.5v range it is probably ok, if it is 5V on the signal line then its bad.
What happens is the ones that are bad when you start it the ecu sees 5v which is basically like full boost, so it dumps fuel and pulls timing and the engine will hardly run and sound like a boat etc.. will need throttle just to keep it chugging.
That is the first thing that comes to mind and is pretty common with the age of these map sensors. also check around the map sensor on the side where the nipple comes out that the glue/adhesive all around the edges hasn't come off, apparently that can happen and cause a leak giving weird readings, just happened to someone last week which I had never heard of before. the bad map sensor is pretty common though, but check the codes it should blink out a 32 or 34 at you even though you have a obd2 car the light should still blink out the Jobd codes.

Crevasse

Hey Ali, thanks for the reply. A bad map sensor would make sense given what you just explained. I will check for codes and check the voltage on the map sensor, although the car is a '95 so it's OBD1. While the car was idling, the check engine light was not on, but the car wasn't idling for very long before it would eventually die, not sure if a bad map sensor will cause a CEL to come on immediately or if it needs to run for some time first.