Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

check the base timing, make sure you hear the engine change sound/drop a few degrees in timing when you put the jumper in. if it doesn't you also need to adjust the tps.

tuner79

Random question, but would the knock off injectors cause the IAC valve not to work? After checking everything electrical I have no trouble codes. I randomly disconnected the IACV & the motor ran the same. Fresh plugs, cleaned the IACV, O2 sensor & wideband. Car has a very light misfire & no IACV signal. I checked all wires & found no issues. Anyone have this issue before?

Crevasse

Thanks for the replies. All this stuff about fuel pressure, fuel pump/fuel pump ECU are real possibilities, but here's the thing: the old OEM fuel pump had the exact same behavior. Pre-turbo, no fuel issues. After the turbo was in and everything was back together (everything except new fuel pump), I drove the car around the block with the OEM fuel pump still in and it was doing this exact same thing, cutting at ~3K RPMS. Honestly at first I though the fuel cut problem was because I needed the new Walrbro fuel pump. Obviously the stock pump cant fully support bigger injectors so I thought fuel was cutting for that reason. I read in some older forum posts that having your neutral safety switch permanently connected (which is what I did, I did my manual swap a year ago) doesnt work with the Aristo ECU so I wired in a neutral safety switch today to see if that did the trick but there was no change. I thought I set base timing right but I will try that again, maybe TPS needed to be adjusted? I will try that again see if that's the issue. If thats not it, I'm pretty much out of ideas.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

The knock off injectors usually won't idle well, which explains your misfires. The iacv really only goes to one or two positions, the cold start and the warmed up position, and then it will idle down a touch more from the warm position when it is in closed loop.
disconnecting it when it is warmed up won't show any change really until the next cold start, or disconnecting when cold won't show until it is warm where idle will keep going up then as it warms.

You can't expect to have a turbocharged car with injectors that do not flow consistently, when you do try and boost you will probably fry a piston from going lean on one of the cylinders.
Risking a good 2jzge block is not worth the money you save on injectors, the block is many times more valuable especially recently the prices have gone up.

you should hear the change in sound, if not you are looking at real timing and not base timing.
some swaps used to have an issue with hitting a rev wall around 4k or so, I forget what the issue was I think people had different reasons for it happening but maybe do some searching around.
Also the stock fuel pump is really not that bad I have run up to 10 psi on a smaller turbo with the stock fuel pump just fine. it won't last forever though like that so it is always a good idea to upgrade so you don't have issues.
Do some troubleshooting and see if you can spot anything else out of place, make sure all your vac lines are good etc.. if it all checks out we can start looking at the more complicated stuff like maybe even the tt ecu itself is having issues.

Crevasse

As soon as I'm done with work I'm gonna check TPS and real timing, try and set base timing. I have searched every iteration of "rev wall, fuel cut, rpm cut" etc, read through all 284 pages of this thread, and so far the things I've found have been:

1) Wires/ECU pins not seated correctly (IGF, etc)
2) MAP sensor wired backwards
3) using the wrong ground for MAP/IAT

I have already checked all of these things and they are all correct.

I have gone over every possible vacuum location and all wiring probably 10x now in frustration trying to find whats wrong, but I will go over everything again. What sort of tests can be done to see if the ECU itself is bad?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Gotcha, yeah just verify the timing thing like written on the first page, timing being off can seem like a rev wall.

You would just have to open it up and look at the capacitors and the board. one of the more common issues is overfueling but really it can mess up all sorts of stuff when they start to leak.
At lower loads the engine can usually manage but it will show up at higher loads when the fuel dumping gets too much for the spark to handle.
I would also double check the injector clips and wires are not crushed by something, an issue with an injector can do the similar also. make sure none of the ignition wires are crushed by the intake etc..

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Oh man, I remember reading through this thread when it was only like 10 pages lol. I just picked up a '93 NA Supra and will likely be going this route. Thanks @Ali SC3 for getting this together and continuing to keep things updated over the years.

bernwuzher

Hi everyone, I just completed the na-t on my 95 sc300. I am having some issues getting it to run on the jdm aristo ecu. It idles pretty rough and it dumps a lot of fuel out of the exhaust. I have triple checked my wiring on the map sensor and on the coils/igniter. The only check engine code I get is code 47. Does anyone have any idea what this issue could be? Maybe bad ecu? Here is a list of what is on the car:
XS Power Turbo Kit
GTE head gasket
ARP head studs
Ds62 igniter
vvti coils
ngk BKR7EIX plugs
Oem 2jz map sensor
Gm iat sensor
4 wire heated o2
440cc oside tiger injectors

Any help would be very appreciated as i've been stumped for a while on this

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

most of the time on a fresh install it is a wiring issue or a bad map sensor, but the ecus have been going bad alot more often the last few years so if everything checks out and your GTE ecu is new to you, open it up and make sure the capacitors aren't leaking on the board.
sounds like you are dumping fuel, so you could be misfiring due to an ignition issue which could be from the install, make sure you have the coilpacks arranged right and none of the plug wires are pinched etc..
you could have a bad ecu as a common symptom of those is dumping fuel when they are really bad. you could have an injector clip issue a wire being shorted out or pinched etc...
Assuming you set the base timing with a light, if all else checks out then check the inside of the ecu.

code 47 is for the trac control tps which all gte's have. alot of 2jzge's wont have trac control so you can ignore the code or there is a way to get it to go away but it is not the cause of your issue and doesn't affect anything really.

Crevasse

I completely re-set base timing today, so I am 100% sure it is correct. Jumped the pins, used a timing light, heard the motor change, everything was textbook. Set to 10 degrees like the manual calls for. Double checked all of the injector clips, none of them are even remotely close to being crushed by anything. They are all plugged in, free from obstruction. No wires are being pinched or crushed by the intake, no vacuum leaks anywhere. Opened the ECU, I don't see any crazy looking melted spots, burn marks, no swollen capacitors, brown crusty residue from leaks, nothing. I'm pretty stumped at this point, I've followed the build guide by the book, really don't know what to do at this point.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Where are you running the vacuum line for the map sensor? do you have a bov like a tial? make sure that it is not open at idle (use a tighter spring or shim it).
I saw in the other thread you had plugged in the power steering connector, not sure what pins on the ecu that goes to but it probably isn't the same on the gte ecu, so unplug it from the rack it is not actually needed.
My '95 manual didn't even have the connector on the harness, most SCs I have had did not have the connector so try unplugging that just to be safe.

Running out of ideas, you did plug in the ecu connector all the way right, you have to use a philips screw driver to get it that last bit, only asking cause it happened to someone recently.

Crevasse

I will try and unplug the progressive power steering. MAP vac line is T'd in to the intake manifold with the FPR. I have the generic BOV that comes with the CXRacing intercooler kit, the vac line nipple is tight and so is the screw in the top. The BOV is just venting to atmosphere tho, didn't think I needed to recirculate it since I went the JDM route. I did indeed use a phillips head screwdriver to get the ECU connector down all the way, I thought of that too.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If it is a tial style you need to make sure that the piston you can see through the openings is actually all the way down. even though it is a map car and can adjust, it is like having a leak in your piping at idle which can throw off the ecu some.
I don't think that is your rev cut issue but just things to look into, especially if it is just more than cracked open at idle. Not sure what to advise at this point, something has to be going on in the setup as it should be working.

Crevasse

Yeah I'm pretty stumped. I might not be as experienced with the TT mod as you but I'm also not a novice when it comes to turning a wrench. I got lucky this weekend and a JDM TT 6-speed ECU popped up at an importer so I snagged it. It should be here by the end of the week and I'm that will either a) just work or b) at least rule out the ECU as the source of the problem.

Aetcsc300

I know this is an old thread, but I am attempting an NA-T ecu mod on my 1992 SC3 and Ive ran into the same issue as this member above. Im only getting spark to coil 1 and not the other ones. I verified all leads, coils, wiring, pinning, and ecu were correct but fail to get power to the other two coils. If someone could point me in the right direction, id greatly appreciate it.