2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
04-28-21, 11:34 AM
#4261
Good afternoon guys, Ali sir,
So, after buying another ECU, new plugs BKR7EIX-11(since I'm still NA), new coils, and wires, re soldered my connection, changed my oil to ROTELLA T5 10-30, and filter, my car runs significantly better, no hitting the wall at 4000rpm... but it does hesitate slightly going up there. 🤷🏽♂️
My o2 was working all along, I did not check a box on the logger, and it shows significantly frequent RICH most of the time. so I don't know whether the issues that I outline below are causes to worry. I haven't put on a wideband yet but I should.
Now, a few issues:-
1) after a few drives which accumulated less than 200 miles, I took out the #1 plug, and holy **** the plug is dry carboned like a ****, I mean black. (I am running 440cc inj) I changed the plugs one more time and like I said above it drives and starts beautifully but after putting a few miles, the plugs are dry carboned again.
2) My oil smells like gas after driving (so do my plugs) but oil smells like normal when sitting down.
3)Dunno if this is an issue but when I pulled my dipstick while running right after a few minutes of starting, a whoosh of air came out. I just put a new PCV valve and it's routed to a sealed catch can. (both intake and exhaust go to the catch can with the outlet from the CC NOT going to the air intake as it's capped off.
4)it has tiny misfires every now and then at idle.
I have the car at the shop now, I just started a new job so I don't have the time to mess with her anymore, as I am afraid I messed up something and my rings are ****ed.... I told them to swap over the injectors to stock to see if that makes a difference, just wondering what would you do in this situation?
I do have a MAPECU 3 if I need to scale down the 440cc or scale up the 300cc while NA, if that's a viable option. or if I should just go Turbo to lean it out. I also bought another GE engine, meantime... but at this point I dunno what direction I should go. Lost.
Rishi
So, after buying another ECU, new plugs BKR7EIX-11(since I'm still NA), new coils, and wires, re soldered my connection, changed my oil to ROTELLA T5 10-30, and filter, my car runs significantly better, no hitting the wall at 4000rpm... but it does hesitate slightly going up there. 🤷🏽♂️
My o2 was working all along, I did not check a box on the logger, and it shows significantly frequent RICH most of the time. so I don't know whether the issues that I outline below are causes to worry. I haven't put on a wideband yet but I should.
Now, a few issues:-
1) after a few drives which accumulated less than 200 miles, I took out the #1 plug, and holy **** the plug is dry carboned like a ****, I mean black. (I am running 440cc inj) I changed the plugs one more time and like I said above it drives and starts beautifully but after putting a few miles, the plugs are dry carboned again.
2) My oil smells like gas after driving (so do my plugs) but oil smells like normal when sitting down.
3)Dunno if this is an issue but when I pulled my dipstick while running right after a few minutes of starting, a whoosh of air came out. I just put a new PCV valve and it's routed to a sealed catch can. (both intake and exhaust go to the catch can with the outlet from the CC NOT going to the air intake as it's capped off.
4)it has tiny misfires every now and then at idle.
I have the car at the shop now, I just started a new job so I don't have the time to mess with her anymore, as I am afraid I messed up something and my rings are ****ed.... I told them to swap over the injectors to stock to see if that makes a difference, just wondering what would you do in this situation?
I do have a MAPECU 3 if I need to scale down the 440cc or scale up the 300cc while NA, if that's a viable option. or if I should just go Turbo to lean it out. I also bought another GE engine, meantime... but at this point I dunno what direction I should go. Lost.
Rishi
04-28-21, 12:38 PM
#4262
Yeah I'm pretty stumped. I might not be as experienced with the TT mod as you but I'm also not a novice when it comes to turning a wrench. I got lucky this weekend and a JDM TT 6-speed ECU popped up at an importer so I snagged it. It should be here by the end of the week and I'm that will either a) just work or b) at least rule out the ECU as the source of the problem.
I know this is an old thread, but I am attempting an NA-T ecu mod on my 1992 SC3 and Ive ran into the same issue as this member above. Im only getting spark to coil 1 and not the other ones. I verified all leads, coils, wiring, pinning, and ecu were correct but fail to get power to the other two coils. If someone could point me in the right direction, id greatly appreciate it.
Good afternoon guys, Ali sir,
So, after buying another ECU, new plugs BKR7EIX-11(since I'm still NA), new coils, and wires, re soldered my connection, changed my oil to ROTELLA T5 10-30, and filter, my car runs significantly better, no hitting the wall at 4000rpm... but it does hesitate slightly going up there. 🤷🏽♂️
My o2 was working all along, I did not check a box on the logger, and it shows significantly frequent RICH most of the time. so I don't know whether the issues that I outline below are causes to worry. I haven't put on a wideband yet but I should.
Now, a few issues:-
1) after a few drives which accumulated less than 200 miles, I took out the #1 plug, and holy **** the plug is dry carboned like a ****, I mean black. (I am running 440cc inj) I changed the plugs one more time and like I said above it drives and starts beautifully but after putting a few miles, the plugs are dry carboned again.
2) My oil smells like gas after driving (so do my plugs) but oil smells like normal when sitting down.
3)Dunno if this is an issue but when I pulled my dipstick while running right after a few minutes of starting, a whoosh of air came out. I just put a new PCV valve and it's routed to a sealed catch can. (both intake and exhaust go to the catch can with the outlet from the CC NOT going to the air intake as it's capped off.
4)it has tiny misfires every now and then at idle.
I have the car at the shop now, I just started a new job so I don't have the time to mess with her anymore, as I am afraid I messed up something and my rings are ****ed.... I told them to swap over the injectors to stock to see if that makes a difference, just wondering what would you do in this situation?
I do have a MAPECU 3 if I need to scale down the 440cc or scale up the 300cc while NA, if that's a viable option. or if I should just go Turbo to lean it out. I also bought another GE engine, meantime... but at this point I dunno what direction I should go. Lost.
Rishi
So, after buying another ECU, new plugs BKR7EIX-11(since I'm still NA), new coils, and wires, re soldered my connection, changed my oil to ROTELLA T5 10-30, and filter, my car runs significantly better, no hitting the wall at 4000rpm... but it does hesitate slightly going up there. 🤷🏽♂️
My o2 was working all along, I did not check a box on the logger, and it shows significantly frequent RICH most of the time. so I don't know whether the issues that I outline below are causes to worry. I haven't put on a wideband yet but I should.
Now, a few issues:-
1) after a few drives which accumulated less than 200 miles, I took out the #1 plug, and holy **** the plug is dry carboned like a ****, I mean black. (I am running 440cc inj) I changed the plugs one more time and like I said above it drives and starts beautifully but after putting a few miles, the plugs are dry carboned again.
2) My oil smells like gas after driving (so do my plugs) but oil smells like normal when sitting down.
3)Dunno if this is an issue but when I pulled my dipstick while running right after a few minutes of starting, a whoosh of air came out. I just put a new PCV valve and it's routed to a sealed catch can. (both intake and exhaust go to the catch can with the outlet from the CC NOT going to the air intake as it's capped off.
4)it has tiny misfires every now and then at idle.
I have the car at the shop now, I just started a new job so I don't have the time to mess with her anymore, as I am afraid I messed up something and my rings are ****ed.... I told them to swap over the injectors to stock to see if that makes a difference, just wondering what would you do in this situation?
I do have a MAPECU 3 if I need to scale down the 440cc or scale up the 300cc while NA, if that's a viable option. or if I should just go Turbo to lean it out. I also bought another GE engine, meantime... but at this point I dunno what direction I should go. Lost.
Rishi
grab a set of bkr5e coppers as a test and see if it improves. I wouldn't put on the stock injectors they wont work, scaling up is a bad idea you only want to scale down.
You won't fry the rings unless you drive extended periods of time with a rich mixture, which you haven't come close to at all, a couple of oil changes till you get it all sorted will be fine.
It is not that easy to destroy a 2jzge. the tiny misfires are probably from carbon sitting on the piston and accumulating on the plug, it is important to get a heated o2 sensor and make sure it is correcting properly with like a wideband.
How do you know the o2 is working? do you have a wideband?
Also I am looking at the link for your 440cc injectors, it says denso style and new. those are usually knockoff injectors in my experience when they have the word style in it and new is also a give away.
That could be the root of your issue, you really want to try and find remanufactured denso units, which basically means an original denso that is cleaned up and flow tested.
I doubt the sheet they gave you are actually for those injectors there are no new denso style injectors that are ev1 that are not actually knockoffs.
Edit* after searching for reviews online, seems like lots of forums have negative things to say about those injectors including running poorly and being knockoffs.
I wouldn't run them on mine, and quite a few members have had similar issues using the knock off units.
I had to add a whole extra disclaimer under the injector section years ago on the first post because it was such a big issue, everyone started trying to use the knock offs and their engines would hardly idle or if they did they would run very poorly.
In fact, I haven't actually heard of a case where they run properly and I have helped many many people get the mod working right.
Having quality injectors is the most important part of a turbocharged vehicle, it is just a matter of time before you burn up a piston if you don't have quality injectors.
You probably just need to get a real set of 440's and I would imagine your car would run fine after that, while you are n/a get some bkr5e or bkr5eix until you get to install the turbo and you should be good.
The car won't run on the 330cc injectors with the tt ecu mod, so don't waste time and shop money doing that, order real 440's like from osidetiger or somewhere reputable and get those installed.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-28-21 at 01:02 PM.
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MrGi11 (04-29-21)
04-28-21, 06:28 PM
#4263
Driver School Candidate
Thanks for the response, I pulled the codes and Im flashing code 14 "No IGF signal to ECM for 6 consecutive IGT signal". I know some of the other members in the pass have dealt with the same code. I have I verified the wires coming from the ecu to the ignitor, verified for continuity and resistance. I do have power to the vvti coils, coil 1being the only one that I am physically seeing a spark, I made sure that the signal for coils 2 and 3 were in the correct spot in the igniter and continuity checks good. IGF signal from igniter to ecu is good, verified continuity. Checked that the distributor was line up properly since I did a refresh on the internals of the engine. I verified that the coils were good by swapping the coils to the one that was firing (in cylinder 6) and each of them worked in that spot. Initially, I thought that I must of had a GE ecu instead of a GTE but I do have an Aristo ECU part number: 89661-30870. I will have another igniter to throw at it this weekend but if the problem still persist, the general consensus that Ive gather is that there must be a problem with that were added and bridge leading to the ecu?
04-28-21, 06:51 PM
#4264
Try the new ecu and see how it goes, you may also want to check the coilpacks are all working sometimes the IS guys have issues with bad coilpacks.
It is usually wiring or something could be faulty like the coilpacks, ecu or even the map sensor. start by trying to pull codes first, if you can't pull codes then that is a sign for the ecu being bad.
Bkr7eix is too cold of a plug to run n/a, since you are still n/a you should be running a 5 range which is stock or a 6 which is for a TT. a 7 range is for a single turbo setup which you have not added yet, so your plugs will carbon foul in short time as they won't heat up enough to burn off the carbon deposits.
grab a set of bkr5e coppers as a test and see if it improves. I wouldn't put on the stock injectors they wont work, scaling up is a bad idea you only want to scale down.
You won't fry the rings unless you drive extended periods of time with a rich mixture, which you haven't come close to at all, a couple of oil changes till you get it all sorted will be fine.
It is not that easy to destroy a 2jzge. the tiny misfires are probably from carbon sitting on the piston and accumulating on the plug, it is important to get a heated o2 sensor and make sure it is correcting properly with like a wideband.
How do you know the o2 is working? do you have a wideband?
Also I am looking at the link for your 440cc injectors, it says denso style and new. those are usually knockoff injectors in my experience when they have the word style in it and new is also a give away.
That could be the root of your issue, you really want to try and find remanufactured denso units, which basically means an original denso that is cleaned up and flow tested.
I doubt the sheet they gave you are actually for those injectors there are no new denso style injectors that are ev1 that are not actually knockoffs.
Edit* after searching for reviews online, seems like lots of forums have negative things to say about those injectors including running poorly and being knockoffs.
I wouldn't run them on mine, and quite a few members have had similar issues using the knock off units.
I had to add a whole extra disclaimer under the injector section years ago on the first post because it was such a big issue, everyone started trying to use the knock offs and their engines would hardly idle or if they did they would run very poorly.
In fact, I haven't actually heard of a case where they run properly and I have helped many many people get the mod working right.
Having quality injectors is the most important part of a turbocharged vehicle, it is just a matter of time before you burn up a piston if you don't have quality injectors.
You probably just need to get a real set of 440's and I would imagine your car would run fine after that, while you are n/a get some bkr5e or bkr5eix until you get to install the turbo and you should be good.
The car won't run on the 330cc injectors with the tt ecu mod, so don't waste time and shop money doing that, order real 440's like from osidetiger or somewhere reputable and get those installed.
It is usually wiring or something could be faulty like the coilpacks, ecu or even the map sensor. start by trying to pull codes first, if you can't pull codes then that is a sign for the ecu being bad.
Bkr7eix is too cold of a plug to run n/a, since you are still n/a you should be running a 5 range which is stock or a 6 which is for a TT. a 7 range is for a single turbo setup which you have not added yet, so your plugs will carbon foul in short time as they won't heat up enough to burn off the carbon deposits.
grab a set of bkr5e coppers as a test and see if it improves. I wouldn't put on the stock injectors they wont work, scaling up is a bad idea you only want to scale down.
You won't fry the rings unless you drive extended periods of time with a rich mixture, which you haven't come close to at all, a couple of oil changes till you get it all sorted will be fine.
It is not that easy to destroy a 2jzge. the tiny misfires are probably from carbon sitting on the piston and accumulating on the plug, it is important to get a heated o2 sensor and make sure it is correcting properly with like a wideband.
How do you know the o2 is working? do you have a wideband?
Also I am looking at the link for your 440cc injectors, it says denso style and new. those are usually knockoff injectors in my experience when they have the word style in it and new is also a give away.
That could be the root of your issue, you really want to try and find remanufactured denso units, which basically means an original denso that is cleaned up and flow tested.
I doubt the sheet they gave you are actually for those injectors there are no new denso style injectors that are ev1 that are not actually knockoffs.
Edit* after searching for reviews online, seems like lots of forums have negative things to say about those injectors including running poorly and being knockoffs.
I wouldn't run them on mine, and quite a few members have had similar issues using the knock off units.
I had to add a whole extra disclaimer under the injector section years ago on the first post because it was such a big issue, everyone started trying to use the knock offs and their engines would hardly idle or if they did they would run very poorly.
In fact, I haven't actually heard of a case where they run properly and I have helped many many people get the mod working right.
Having quality injectors is the most important part of a turbocharged vehicle, it is just a matter of time before you burn up a piston if you don't have quality injectors.
You probably just need to get a real set of 440's and I would imagine your car would run fine after that, while you are n/a get some bkr5e or bkr5eix until you get to install the turbo and you should be good.
The car won't run on the 330cc injectors with the tt ecu mod, so don't waste time and shop money doing that, order real 440's like from osidetiger or somewhere reputable and get those installed.
Rishi
04-29-21, 09:06 AM
#4265
Ok, I ordered new 440cc injectors from Osidetiger, I'll return the TRE ones ASAP. also, I want to add, I mistyped, it was a BKR6EIX-11 that I used, I know, still the wrong range anyways. I should have just waited and ordered from Osidetiger in the first place, (They were out of it when I ordered the other ones)
Ordered 2 sets of BKR5EIX-11, JIC. An oil change is ready to go when the car comes back from the shop, they didn't do anything anyways. Now just waiting on the parts to arrive, then I'll go to town with the fixes.
Hopefully, this is all I need for now. Thanks, sir, for your lightning-quick reply,. You are the mofoing MAN!!!
Very Respectfully,
Rishi
Ordered 2 sets of BKR5EIX-11, JIC. An oil change is ready to go when the car comes back from the shop, they didn't do anything anyways. Now just waiting on the parts to arrive, then I'll go to town with the fixes.
Hopefully, this is all I need for now. Thanks, sir, for your lightning-quick reply,. You are the mofoing MAN!!!
Very Respectfully,
Rishi
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Ali SC3 (04-29-21)
04-29-21, 09:30 AM
#4266
Thanks for the response, I pulled the codes and Im flashing code 14 "No IGF signal to ECM for 6 consecutive IGT signal". I know some of the other members in the pass have dealt with the same code. I have I verified the wires coming from the ecu to the ignitor, verified for continuity and resistance. I do have power to the vvti coils, coil 1being the only one that I am physically seeing a spark, I made sure that the signal for coils 2 and 3 were in the correct spot in the igniter and continuity checks good. IGF signal from igniter to ecu is good, verified continuity. Checked that the distributor was line up properly since I did a refresh on the internals of the engine. I verified that the coils were good by swapping the coils to the one that was firing (in cylinder 6) and each of them worked in that spot. Initially, I thought that I must of had a GE ecu instead of a GTE but I do have an Aristo ECU part number: 89661-30870. I will have another igniter to throw at it this weekend but if the problem still persist, the general consensus that Ive gather is that there must be a problem with that were added and bridge leading to the ecu?
Make sure the pins are all the way seated, they need to click, if they go in all the way but don't click, they usually back out some when tightening the connector but you won't see it due to the rubber grommet around the pin.
It is rare for the ignitors to go bad but is still possible. it is more likely to have bad coils, and make sure the area around the coils are free of oil and water or the spark will just short to the head.
Also make sure you did not remove the cylinder head ground on the passenger side towards the firewall. that needs to be there or there is little to no ground path for the spark to light off.
sometimes it gets removed while working on the turbo stuff and not put back on, so just check over any changes that you may have also made in that area.
Ok, I ordered new 440cc injectors from Osidetiger, I'll return the TRE ones ASAP. also, I want to add, I mistyped, it was a BKR6EIX-11 that I used, I know, still the wrong range anyways. I should have just waited and ordered from Osidetiger in the first place, (They were out of it when I ordered the other ones)
Ordered 2 sets of BKR5EIX-11, JIC. An oil change is ready to go when the car comes back from the shop, they didn't do anything anyways. Now just waiting on the parts to arrive, then I'll go to town with the fixes.
Hopefully, this is all I need for now. Thanks, sir, for your lightning-quick reply,. You are the mofoing MAN!!!
Very Respectfully,
Rishi
Ordered 2 sets of BKR5EIX-11, JIC. An oil change is ready to go when the car comes back from the shop, they didn't do anything anyways. Now just waiting on the parts to arrive, then I'll go to town with the fixes.
Hopefully, this is all I need for now. Thanks, sir, for your lightning-quick reply,. You are the mofoing MAN!!!
Very Respectfully,
Rishi
I am pretty sure your issue is the injector, has happened to several members before especially when the good places sell out of injectors people start looking towards the "new" units but most of them are just repackaged knock offs in my experience.
I would change the oil for sure after using those injectors just to be safe, one or more of them was likely pouring in more fuel than needed.
An old trick to see if your carb was dumping fuel would be to pull the dipstick and smell it, if it smells like gas you could take a lighter to the end of it and see it ignite.
Now don't go lighting your oil on fire though lol, it takes a lot of fuel for it to happen anyways.
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MrGi11 (05-01-21)
05-01-21, 09:40 AM
#4267
Driver School Candidate
If you are getting the code 14, then the ecu might be fine. I would look at the wiring again, make sure the ecu connector is properly seated, you have to use a phillips screwdriver to get it the last bit.
Make sure the pins are all the way seated, they need to click, if they go in all the way but don't click, they usually back out some when tightening the connector but you won't see it due to the rubber grommet around the pin.
It is rare for the ignitors to go bad but is still possible. it is more likely to have bad coils, and make sure the area around the coils are free of oil and water or the spark will just short to the head.
Also make sure you did not remove the cylinder head ground on the passenger side towards the firewall. that needs to be there or there is little to no ground path for the spark to light off.
sometimes it gets removed while working on the turbo stuff and not put back on, so just check over any changes that you may have also made in that area.
Make sure the pins are all the way seated, they need to click, if they go in all the way but don't click, they usually back out some when tightening the connector but you won't see it due to the rubber grommet around the pin.
It is rare for the ignitors to go bad but is still possible. it is more likely to have bad coils, and make sure the area around the coils are free of oil and water or the spark will just short to the head.
Also make sure you did not remove the cylinder head ground on the passenger side towards the firewall. that needs to be there or there is little to no ground path for the spark to light off.
sometimes it gets removed while working on the turbo stuff and not put back on, so just check over any changes that you may have also made in that area.
05-01-21, 09:55 AM
#4268
Plugged in the 6-spd manual JDM GTE ECU, set base timing, fired right up. Drove around, no RPM/fuel cut! Didn't change anything else, seems like the ECU was the issue. Not sure if it's because the ECU was bad/going bad or just not liking something with my setup, but regardless I'm glad it's working. Thanks for all the replies.
05-01-21, 10:54 AM
#4269
Driver School Candidate
Well, after buttoning everything back together, I attempted to start the car and was met with another issue, this time is Code 78 Fuel pump control circuit fault. The pump was working fine before, the back seat is off and you could hear it kick on. I went and jump the red and black wire and green wire in the fuel control ECU and still nothing, I also switch the main EFI relay and nothing. Any thoughts? Bad ECU?
05-01-21, 11:44 AM
#4270
[QUOTE=Aetcsc300;11044317]Well, after buttoning everything back together, I attempted to start the car and was met with another issue, this time is Code 78 Fuel pump control circuit fault. The pump was working fine before, the back seat is off and you could hear it kick on. I went and jump the red and black wire and green wire in the fuel control ECU and still nothing, I also switch the main EFI relay and nothing. Any thoughts? Bad ECU? [/QUOTE
If your hearing the pump run and the ecu says its not then the ecu is probably bad.
If your not hearing the pump run try jumping FP and B+ diag connector under the hood. its right next to the fuel pressure regulator and its on the right side of the intake manifold.
You can do the 12 volt mod and bypass the fuel pump control ecu. ( i would recommend this and is what i have done.) then no fuel its the pump takes the ECU out of the equation
If your hearing the pump run and the ecu says its not then the ecu is probably bad.
If your not hearing the pump run try jumping FP and B+ diag connector under the hood. its right next to the fuel pressure regulator and its on the right side of the intake manifold.
You can do the 12 volt mod and bypass the fuel pump control ecu. ( i would recommend this and is what i have done.) then no fuel its the pump takes the ECU out of the equation
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Ali SC3 (05-03-21)
05-01-21, 03:19 PM
#4271
Driver School Candidate
[/QUOTE]
If your hearing the pump run and the ecu says its not then the ecu is probably bad.
If your not hearing the pump run try jumping FP and B+ diag connector under the hood. its right next to the fuel pressure regulator and its on the right side of the intake manifold.
You can do the 12 volt mod and bypass the fuel pump control ecu. ( i would recommend this and is what i have done.) then no fuel its the pump takes the ECU out of the equation[/QUOTE]
Found the issue to the problem! After following what you said, I decided to open up the tank to see what the pump was looking like, since its an aftermarket pump. One of the wire had came loose from the connector... oops. Went ahead and cranked the car up and its fired right up, its idling a bit rough right now but ill tackle that in at a later time. Thanks for all the help!
If your hearing the pump run and the ecu says its not then the ecu is probably bad.
If your not hearing the pump run try jumping FP and B+ diag connector under the hood. its right next to the fuel pressure regulator and its on the right side of the intake manifold.
You can do the 12 volt mod and bypass the fuel pump control ecu. ( i would recommend this and is what i have done.) then no fuel its the pump takes the ECU out of the equation[/QUOTE]
Found the issue to the problem! After following what you said, I decided to open up the tank to see what the pump was looking like, since its an aftermarket pump. One of the wire had came loose from the connector... oops. Went ahead and cranked the car up and its fired right up, its idling a bit rough right now but ill tackle that in at a later time. Thanks for all the help!
)
05-03-21, 09:59 AM
#4273
Update, I rechecked my wiring and verified that it was good.I was missing the ground on the head by the passenger side. After reinstalling it and attempting to again, I was having the same issue. However, after I installed the new igniter, which was a DH61 (previous being a DS62), there was spark to all cylinders and the code went away. Thank you for being putting this thread out there, much appreciate it, ill be buttoning everything up and attempting to start soon!
After replacing the ground and ignitor he hasn't burned up any more ignitors, so I have a feeling that is what happened to you as well. Make sure the ground is good and you should be good to go with the new ignitor!
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-03-21 at 10:10 AM.
05-06-21, 07:34 PM
#4274
Driver School Candidate
I think your ignitor shorted out because the cylinder head ground was missing. I only recently learned this can happen after reading Kahns thread on his gte swap, he kept having issues with his TT ignitor and he was missing the cylinder head ground.
After replacing the ground and ignitor he hasn't burned up any more ignitors, so I have a feeling that is what happened to you as well. Make sure the ground is good and you should be good to go with the new ignitor!
After replacing the ground and ignitor he hasn't burned up any more ignitors, so I have a feeling that is what happened to you as well. Make sure the ground is good and you should be good to go with the new ignitor!
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Ali SC3 (05-10-21)
