Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like maybe a map sensor issue or an air leak at the FFIM. Really could be lots of things, so hard to say without doing some more diagnosis.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Does the ignitor need to be externally grounded? I know there's ground through the harness but does the ignitor itself need a clean connection to the bracket and the car or can it be hidden/tucked away?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Depends on which ignitor, the older generation ones like the stock one I think should be on a grounded bracket, but might work without it haven't tried.
The newer ignitors like the one for the vvti coils or gte coils have a ground wire, so those don't need to be grounded to the bracket.

The most important thing to remember when tucking the ignitors away is they can get really hot, especially that gte ignitor.
Make sure you have it in an area where it wont melt anything and can get some airflow if in the engine bay or on like a heatsink type setup if it has to be inside the car.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Exactly what I needed to know, thanks Ali. I'll mount it in the stock location for now but I'm doing a minor wire tuck when the FFIM goes in so figured I'd check.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Well I'm at a cross road and need some insight on this mod. The supra is bone stock and I have a "crank but no start" condition, I believe I've narrowed it down to the ECU. I'm getting fuel out of the injectors, getting spark on all 6 but the CEL doesn't light up when I turn the key and when I jump TE1 and E1, nothing lights up. I can either go ahead with the GTE ECU mod that I have everything for and hope it starts or, should I get a replacement (expensive) Supra GE/NA/Manual ECU to get the car running and ensure its not something else before tackling the GTE ECU mod. Suggestions?

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Hate to ask such a noob question but, I'm having trouble depinning the MAF, igniter and ECU wires, can someone post instructions or better yet, a video that pertains to these types of pins?

scsexy

iTrader: (1)

most of the time theres a little plastic retainer piece in the clip u want to remove the pins on.

remove the retainer with a small pick prying outwards.

Then each pin will have a little tab holding them in. i find it works bestt to pull on the wire a bit while pushing up on the little tab and it should slide right out the back

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

When was the last time it was working? sounds like it could be ecu related but hard to say for sure, if it isn't then you will have a hard time getting the tt ecu running without knowing what the issue is.
Maybe try and find a GE ecu to use to rule it out before you start. Some people have no problems doing the mod, some people have a tough time with the wiring or something random going wrong so you will have to make that call.

for most connectors there is usually a plastic lock like Scsexy said, you can usually pop it out with a small screwdriver, and once you do that you will see the tabs on the pins and the little plastic locks.
lift up on the tabs ever so slightly, and the pin will slide out pretty easy, no need to hulk it or you can break the tab and the connector is ruined.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Lots changed since I posted last but long story short, it's running on a GE ECU I borrowed and I now have a GTE block with a GTE oil pump with crank sensor installed. I've got the plug for the crank sensor just tucked away and loose, is there any benefit to try and use it's signal along with the distributor or is it more hassles than its worth? Now that I think about it, I'm not sure if its the 12 tooth gear or the newer GTE/VVTi gear installed at the crank but I can just check.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Probably not an advantage with the stock ecu, I would just secure it out of the way for now but if you go standalone the sensor on the crank is more accurate for tuning and has less potential for timing drift versus a distributor setup going off the timing belt. Standalones usually have an easier time reading the crank mounted sensor versus the one in the distributor, as the 2jzge distributors don't have the best signal in the world, but the stock ecus have no issue picking up the signals cleanly as long as you have all the engine grounds in place.

Also to note for future readers with regards to quality of the crank signal, this is just for the crank sensor in the distributor that has 24 very small teeth flying past a very small magnet. the cam sensor in the distributor just has 1 (or was it 2) large tooth flying past another magnet and is much easier for all the ecu's to read. So you don't have to go and get a seperate external cam trigger kit, you can run the crank off the crank mounted sensor and use the distributor for cam signals if you like. On a GE harness, all of these sensors share a common sensor ground that is not the same as the chassis ground. Another good one to note is the 2 wires for the crank sensor are signal and ground and you cannot mix them up or get them backwards or it won't start at all. You have to look up the polarity and get it correct.

Best build right now is a vvti head with the factory cam sensor which is basically a gte sensor and put a vvti trigger wheel on the crank, gets you all the best of the factory setup and more power from vvti, but that is something you would want to do after going standalone or deal with the picky vvti ecus.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

I've searched through and closest I could get were these pictures. I have a few options in my cart on Amazon and Ballenger Motorsports but I cant seem to get a definitive part number or name for the ECU pins. I also need to redo the pin for the MAF to MAP relocation in pin 66 to 62, its pretty junked up from when I was learning to de-pin them properly lol. AKA, I need maybe a dozen pins to be safe, where can I order them?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

few vendors sell them they call them the 040 terminal for the ecu plug, check out driftmotion
https://www.google.com/search?q=supra+ecu+pins

I think it is a .040 multilock AMP terminal, quick search and found https://www.supraforums.com/threads/...u-pins.694730/.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

This is perfect, thank you!

Aetcsc300

***Update***
I am still having an issue with popping code 21. To give some context, the car start and idle's (it idles a lil rough). AFR on the wideband read around 10 (running 550's without piggyback). Now, when it comes to code 21, I have wired in a 4 wire heated 02. I have a wire spliced into wire coming out of pin 71 and I am using pin 48 for my signal wires, pin 71 wire going into one of the black wires on the o2 and the signal wire going into the blue wire on the o2. I a chassis ground wire going into the white wire on the o2 and a power wire from the ecu going into the last black wire in the o2. Now, when I disconnect the battery and hook it back up and start the car I get a flashing CEL when the diagnostic connector in jumper to read the codes. If I disconnect the o2, it will then flash the code 21 and it flash it from that point on even if I hook the o2 back up. Could this be a issue with the ECU? I am stuck with this code, I have tried hooking up the single hire o2 back to the signal wire but I still get that code. Im assuming that the lack of o2 reading is causing the rough idle and break when revving. The diagram below is accurate representation of the pin in the harness in my 92 sc3.

sc3hundo

Hi all,
I'm pretty new to the car modding scene and I wanted to clarify this before buying anything else. I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but I feel like the answer is simple and I'm just ignorant as I've never dealt with coils/ignitors before. For reference, I have a JDM non-vvti aristo ecu, ds62 ignitor, vvti coil packs, and pretty much everything else needed to go na-t except the wastegate, injectors, and wiring. The wiring is what I'm confused about.
In the diagram in post #1, I can see that the B+ from the ignitor is connected to each of the coils. My question is, does this 12v wire come directly off the ignitor and is spliced 6 ways to all six coils? And if so, how would I go about splicing those? Do I just cut and splice all six spark plug wires to the same B+ wire? (They seem a little thick to do all that...)
Secondly, I'm wondering if all of the ground wires on the coil pigtails can be connected to the same ground. It looks like on my coils that there is a positive (which is connected to the respective pin on the ignitor and the shared coil like 1 and 3), and a ground. I'm wondering if I can run a single ground wire to all of these pigtails and splice it to the ground on the ignitor.
Again I'm sorry if this has already been asked, but I spent a good three hours scouring the thread and I couldn't find someone with the same question. I appreciate any help.