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***Update***
I am still having an issue with popping code 21. To give some context, the car start and idle's (it idles a lil rough). AFR on the wideband read around 10 (running 550's without piggyback). Now, when it comes to code 21, I have wired in a 4 wire heated 02. I have a wire spliced into wire coming out of pin 71 and I am using pin 48 for my signal wires, pin 71 wire going into one of the black wires on the o2 and the signal wire going into the blue wire on the o2. I a chassis ground wire going into the white wire on the o2 and a power wire from the ecu going into the last black wire in the o2. Now, when I disconnect the battery and hook it back up and start the car I get a flashing CEL when the diagnostic connector in jumper to read the codes. If I disconnect the o2, it will then flash the code 21 and it flash it from that point on even if I hook the o2 back up. Could this be a issue with the ECU? I am stuck with this code, I have tried hooking up the single hire o2 back to the signal wire but I still get that code. Im assuming that the lack of o2 reading is causing the rough idle and break when revving. The diagram below is accurate representation of the pin in the harness in my 92 sc3.
You shouldn't be running 550s without a piggyback, itwill run too rich even with the o2 sensor working.
code 21 just means the o2 heater is not working, so either that pin 71 is not grounding it or your 12v on the other black wire is not on.
you can have code 21 and the o2 sensor still work which is why the single wire has the same code.
you may need to remove the other pins from 71 if there are some there already, you said you spliced into it? that could be part of the issue.
I would strongly recommend going to 440s or getting a piggyback on there, you will run so rich you will get carbon deposits in no time, which even happens sometimes with the 440s on these ecus as they just run rich most of the time anyways.
Originally Posted by sc3hundo
Hi all,
I'm pretty new to the car modding scene and I wanted to clarify this before buying anything else. I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but I feel like the answer is simple and I'm just ignorant as I've never dealt with coils/ignitors before. For reference, I have a JDM non-vvti aristo ecu, ds62 ignitor, vvti coil packs, and pretty much everything else needed to go na-t except the wastegate, injectors, and wiring. The wiring is what I'm confused about.
In the diagram in post #1, I can see that the B+ from the ignitor is connected to each of the coils. My question is, does this 12v wire come directly off the ignitor and is spliced 6 ways to all six coils? And if so, how would I go about splicing those? Do I just cut and splice all six spark plug wires to the same B+ wire? (They seem a little thick to do all that...)
Secondly, I'm wondering if all of the ground wires on the coil pigtails can be connected to the same ground. It looks like on my coils that there is a positive (which is connected to the respective pin on the ignitor and the shared coil like 1 and 3), and a ground. I'm wondering if I can run a single ground wire to all of these pigtails and splice it to the ground on the ignitor.
Again I'm sorry if this has already been asked, but I spent a good three hours scouring the thread and I couldn't find someone with the same question. I appreciate any help.
So the ignitor and coils always have 12v power, so yes they are spliced into the same line. you don't do all the splices at the same spot.
I usually get a thick gauge wire and splice that one wire in by the ignitor, and then run that to the last coil. then splice off that wire near each coilpack that needs 12v along the way.
Each of the coils also has a ground wire, but the ground wire being activated by the ecu is how the coil is actually controlled by the ecu so you cannot just ground these wires together, they have to go to the appropriate place on the ignitor, and then from ignitor to ecu which is most of the wiring in this modification for the coils.
For those with an aftermarket FFIM and a GTE IACV, how well does it start and idle on this mod? Or if I source the SC/LS400 IACV, do I need to source a check valve too? Has anyone just plain deleted the IACV or does starting and drivability become a major issue?
For those with an aftermarket FFIM and a GTE IACV, how well does it start and idle on this mod? Or if I source the SC/LS400 IACV, do I need to source a check valve too? Has anyone just plain deleted the IACV or does starting and drivability become a major issue?
Anybody? I may just grab a SC400 IACV, add a check valve and see what happens.
I have run it pretty much every possible way. I would never do without a iacv again unless you have super mild winters, even then it just becomes old after a while.
2jzgte iacv functions the same as the sc400/ls400 iacv, same connector and same flange.
I usually use a 400 one, the only different thing is the coolant nipples that come off the iacv are different angles and an extra one on the v8. you can pull them out (press fitted factory) or just cut them off or ignore them.
Reuse the 2jzgte check valve and gasket with the 400 iacv, and you can get a weld on gte flange and it all works like factory.
With the tt ecu mod it will idle like stock with the gte or 400 iacv as long as you dont have any vacuum leaks.
fun fact the 7mgte one is also a bolt on to a 2jzgte flange, but they are generally in much worse shape and tend to stick etc.. if they have not been maintained.
So I grabbed a GE flanged, MCC Loyalty FFIM which is flanged for the GE IACV and an extra hose nipple. It appears I'll have to run a vacuum hose from it into the IC pipe before the throttle body to eliminate a boost leak. But either way, thats a solution using parts I already have so I'm cool with it, just gotta drill a hole and run another vacuum line to the IC pipe.
Also, next speed bump. While moving down to just one o2 sensor, which pin at the ECU plug is the JDM ecu looking for? Aka, do I keep the up or down stream o2 sensor? My wideband is going in the up stream bung and just need to know which signal the ECU will be looking for on this single wire o2.
yeah with the GE iacv you will need to run it to the IC piping as it doesnt have a check valve. will still work fine as long as the barbs are a decent size for enough idle air.
I forget if its the plug closer to the firewall or the one closer to the front. I want to say the one closer to the front but just do a continuity check or resistance check on the pin in the bay and the pin at the ecu. the o2 sensor pin number is on the first page I think B48. Your wideband should not be connected to the ecu at all.
Yep thanks, B48 is correct, don't know how I missed that on the first page. Got it all wired in now and yeah, the wideband has nothing to do with the ECU, I was just saying which bung its going in.
First off, id like to say thanks for such a comprehensive wealth of knowledge that i have referred back to many, many times.
Could anyone offer some information please, i have done all the other steps (GTE MAP sensor / ignitor / coils etc) and ive started to wire them back to my ecu.
owever when removing my ecu (JDM 1994 Soarer 2jz ge- non vvti) , i found the connectors to be completely different to the JZS174 (non vvti) ecu i purchased....
i know silly me for not checking first.
My ecu has a 34/22/16/28 plug (part number 89661 24340)
Is there a patch harness available? or perhaps a wiring diagram for this particular engine loom that i may use tore-pin it?
i promise i have used the search function but only found soarers with the same ecu connectors as below.
thanks in advance
/Dan
The JSZ147 ecu is the same type as pictured below.
Originally Posted by Kris9884
I've been searching around and trying to find out what ECU I have, I was given this ECU as a package deal with some other parts and cant seem to confirm if this is the USDM or JDM version? Can someone point out how to tell from the label? If it's USDM, I assume I need to find the JDM one to avoid wiring a MAF in, right?
thinking about it, if i could source a JZA80 Supra wiring loom for the 2JZ GE (non vvti) - would it be possible to swap the loom into my Soarer and use the new supra loom with the TT ecu i have?
or are there differences?
rather than re-pinning 80+ connections to the e9/e10 style connector
So that is a new one for me, but it looks like the early JDM soarer 2jzge ecu shares the same plug as the 1jz non vvti ecu.
I am guessing it is RHD?
easiest would be a soarer harness if they made a later year one with the newer plug, I am not familiar so you would have to find out.
Next would be getting a swap harness made for your application, just tell them you have a soarer body plug wise and you want the engine stuff for a na-t setup and choose the igintor, coils, etc..
After that it would be a sc300 harness which are LHD, but you could maybe modify it to work as it is longer by removing the plastics and rewrapping it.
I am not sure what auto trans your setup has on it but if it is the kind with the cable running to the throttle body you may get lucky if they are close to the same. You may want to see what trans connectors you have as toyota did use different stuff on the 2jzgte than the 2jzge, not sure which plugs are on the 1jz auto but you get my idea compare what you have.
I think the supra loom would be last as the it would have different body plugs than a soarer/sc300 harness, so you would have to rewire that part but it has been done before. They do have RHD versions at least.
Another option could be to try and use the 1jzgte non vvti stuff, if the ecu plugs in you may just have to add more or less the same coil and map sensor stuff in the tt ecu mod, just to different ecu pins. The map sensor for a 1JZ is the same as a 2jz, but finding 1jzgte non vvti ecu's in good shape is a whole different story but might be an easier option.
So that is a new one for me, but it looks like the early JDM soarer 2jzge ecu shares the same plug as the 1jz non vvti ecu.
I am guessing it is RHD?
easiest would be a soarer harness if they made a later year one with the newer plug, I am not familiar so you would have to find out.
Next would be getting a swap harness made for your application, just tell them you have a soarer body plug wise and you want the engine stuff for a na-t setup and choose the igintor, coils, etc..
After that it would be a sc300 harness which are LHD, but you could maybe modify it to work as it is longer by removing the plastics and rewrapping it.
I am not sure what auto trans your setup has on it but if it is the kind with the cable running to the throttle body you may get lucky if they are close to the same. You may want to see what trans connectors you have as toyota did use different stuff on the 2jzgte than the 2jzge, not sure which plugs are on the 1jz auto but you get my idea compare what you have.
I think the supra loom would be last as the it would have different body plugs than a soarer/sc300 harness, so you would have to rewire that part but it has been done before. They do have RHD versions at least.
Another option could be to try and use the 1jzgte non vvti stuff, if the ecu plugs in you may just have to add more or less the same coil and map sensor stuff in the tt ecu mod, just to different ecu pins. The map sensor for a 1JZ is the same as a 2jz, but finding 1jzgte non vvti ecu's in good shape is a whole different story but might be an easier option.
Thanks for the prompt reply!
Yes she's a RHD.
OK so do you think it would be safe to assume the pinout for the 1jz ecu would be the same? As i have found a wiring diagram for a 1jz soarer and I'm confident I would be able to re pin the loom with the 2jz connectors if that was the case.
Similarly I have found on tweeked performance they offer a patch harness from a 1jz to 2jz!
thanks for the info on the body plugs I hadn't thought of that.
Oh ok so a 1jz gte ecu could work also? If it were wired correctly.
I wasn't sure if the igniter/signal etc would be the same and if it was sequential / batch fire. And work using the dizzy signal for cam position etc?
Edited to add that auto trans has been removed and manual swapped so shouldn't be an issue
The patch harness would be a good and easy option actually.
I think the 1jz was batch fire injection? so you would have to see what you have on your harness.
If you are wired for batch then you might have to do some additional wiring when swapping to the supra/aristo 2jzgte ecu as those are for sequential injection.
The ignitor would work with all the ecus the only one that uses the old kind is the 2jzge 1jzge with the one coil.
dizzy for crank/cam position doesn't matter either, all the ecu's read the same signal, the different sensors all put out a 12 tooth crank pattern and 2 cam signals TDC 1 and TDC 6. the gte's just tend to have a stronger signal without as much drift but these ecus are not tuned to the edge to matter enough and the dizzy can always be adjusted.
the 1jzgte ecu on what you have is still an option, you might not even have to mess with the injector wiring then cause I am guessing yours is the same kind of batch fire due to having the same ecu connector. I think the 1j uses smaller injectors though, so might be worth the extra effort to upgrade to the 2jzgte ecu via the patch harness. I would go with the patch harness and wire up any extra wiring to that honestly sounds like the best way to do it.
The patch harness would be a good and easy option actually.
I think the 1jz was batch fire injection? so you would have to see what you have on your harness.
If you are wired for batch then you might have to do some additional wiring when swapping to the supra/aristo 2jzgte ecu as those are for sequential injection.
The ignitor would work with all the ecus the only one that uses the old kind is the 2jzge 1jzge with the one coil.
dizzy for crank/cam position doesn't matter either, all the ecu's read the same signal, the different sensors all put out a 12 tooth crank pattern and 2 cam signals TDC 1 and TDC 6. the gte's just tend to have a stronger signal without as much drift but these ecus are not tuned to the edge to matter enough and the dizzy can always be adjusted.
the 1jzgte ecu on what you have is still an option, you might not even have to mess with the injector wiring then cause I am guessing yours is the same kind of batch fire due to having the same ecu connector. I think the 1j uses smaller injectors though, so might be worth the extra effort to upgrade to the 2jzgte ecu via the patch harness. I would go with the patch harness and wire up any extra wiring to that honestly sounds like the best way to do it.
Yes reading a pin out its banked fuel injection for a 1jz gte.
Im also assuming that my original harness is also batch... im going to pull it and wire everything on a bench over the next couple of weekends.
So i took the plunge and bought a 1jz GTE ecu... as it worked out a lot cheaper being perfectly honest. paying for a patch harness to a 2jz ontop of the original ECU cost came to that of a standalone (£750) which defeats the object.
and to be honest, i quite fancy the challenge of doing this...
in regards to injectors,im going to stick with 440s and check the AFR's , from what ive read through this post these JZ ecus are fairly versatile and adjust fuel well on the o2 sensor (which i will also need to wire as mine is a 1 wire sensor)
Ill update with some results, and if its all working ill add a pinout for wiring the coils / map / ignitor / o2 sens. etc for those in my situation.
wish me luck, and many thanks for your help so far!
Yeah, it is more like the tt ecu mod vs the other route, just using a 1jz ecu instead.
You should be fine with the 440s but if you start fouling out plugs worst case you would just add in a regular afc and you would be in good shape. It will help raise boost cut a little also.
04-27-22, 08:51 AM
