MrGi11

Hey Ali, it's been a while... Soooo, I sold my Supra last year with the NA TT ECU mod. The current owner loves the way it runs, he said when it was running, it was cherry, he had no problems whatsoever, AFRs we're perfect...except he's blown 2 turbos so far. How? I dunno. Lol.

Anyways, after a year+ not having a 2jz vehicle, i came upon and got an auto NA Sup now, and i want to do the TT mod to this as well. Collecting the parts and i will be doing the manual trans swap, drilling the drain, TT HG, etc etc in a few months. Cheers.

Thanks for your help and knowledge brother.

Love and respect,Rishi.

Edited.09/14



​​​​​​
​​​

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Lol, that's a bit odd with the turbo's. Glad it's still running well, always a good choice when you need that oem reliability.

sc3hundo

Hey everyone, i recently finished putting the last touches on this ecu mod, and got the car started up. I have a couple of problems I wanted to pick your brains for answers to. As a side note, I have read through (nearly) all pages of this thread for answers, but wanted to see if my symptoms have any other possible solutions than previous posts. For reference, here is my setup:
-2jzge block and head
-1.3mm MLS head gasket, ARP studs
-FFIM with RMR 90mm throttle body, TT Supra TPS
-BW S300SX turbo
-TT MAP sensor, SC400 IACV
-DS62 igniter (replacement ordered)
-Aristo non-vvti ecu
-Heated O2 sensor
-GM style IAT sensor
-Racetronix wastegate
-many more smaller goodies....

As the title mentions, my ecu is throwing a code 14 when the diagnostic pins are jumped. I have done the following diagnostic steps:
-Checked for IGF continuity from the ICM to the ECU -- OK
-Rewired the igniter ground to the battery ground
-Swapped out the coils
-Checked for spark on all 6 cylinders -- OK

That's all the ignition diagnostics I have done. I realize that the code 14 can be triggered by a number of factors, so I also checked the following:
- MAP sensor power voltage (5V with ignition on, engine off)
- MAP signal voltage ( 2.3V at idle)
- O2 ground resistance to battery ground (0.5 ohms-- OK)
- MAP sensor signal continuity to pin B62
- Checked that new ecu pins are pressed in all the way -- OK
- Sprayed brake clean near vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks
- Set timing at 8 degrees at idle
- Checked continuity between O2 signal wire and ecu pin
- Checked gap on spark plugs (0.28)
- Taken the cover off the ecu and inspected the capacitors and resistors for browning or leakage -- OK

The symptoms I'm having are:
1) the engine won't rev past ~2800rpm
2) opening the throttle past 1/10 throttle hits fuel cut or something similar which causes the engine to stall
3) rough and high idle. Idle when warm is around 1100rpm with the idle adjustment screw all the way loose. The engine lopes at idle.
4) Running very rich. Black plugs, gas smell out the exhaust.

I am a little new at car modding as I have only been working on cars for 2 years, so I have a couple of basic questions.
1) I have the B+ and the IGT1,2,3 wired in the same configuration, with the B+ wire going to the top wire on the coil and the IGT wire to the bottom. To my understanding, these wires are interchangeable (i.e. it doesn't matter which wire goes to the top or bottom). Is this correct?
2) Would any of the VSV's I bypassed but still have plugged in cause this problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. My first thought was the ecu but like I said previously, I opened it up and didn't see any leaking caps or browning. The ecu I bought said it was from a working Aristo. I have a new igniter in the mail which I'm hoping will fix the problem ,but I'm worried that my symptoms indicate something else besides just the IGF code. Thanks for any help in advance.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

For the most part is sounds like everything is right.
My guess would be the TT supra TPS is causing the issue if you didn't rewire the plug, it didn't say next to it..
The 4 pins on the GE tps and the TT tps are reversed due to being opposite rotation, so if you are using the GE harness still you need to rewire that plug.
If not then it is reading incorrectly which explains the revving issues, tps is probably reading maxed out at idle and idle pin is not engaged properly.
It's odd as toyota normally uses different keyed connectors so you can't plug the wrong one in, but this case they didn't bother.

Those ignitors don't go bad too often, if it is something else I would check the grounding from the head to the firewall, that cable tends to fall apart when you remove it and put it back on enough times, or just the ignitor wiring in general first.

This picture shows the pinout on the 2 tps's

MrGi11

This might sound stupid- but i kinda like having an auto driving in LA traffic.

Now, my question is,

1)anyone here has run this mod on the stock GE auto? How long did it last? Was it fun? Or better get a manual? Would you do (auto) again? Besides it being a ticking time bomb....

​​​​​​2) i have also read somewhere here or on SF, that the 1JZGTE auto will fit right in with the 1JZ TC and flex plate. Is that true? Please enlighten me on this, because i can't find a definitive answer. And if it does, will the 1jzgte vvti auto trans work? One of my buddies said i can have his 1jzgte auto trans that's sitting in his backyard....

sc3hundo

Thanks for the reply, Ali! It turned out to be a bad ignitor (strange), but I plugged the new one in and it started right up!
I've just got a vacuum leak I have to find somewhere, and deal with my brake booster vacuum line. I think I lost the in-line check valve in that line so the brakes don't work very well if I press them right after I let off from boost. I really appreciate the many replies in this thread, and Ali you are really a genius. The car pulls hard and I've never been happier with her!
Also as a side note: since I swapped my transmission to an R150, the final drive ratio is much higher, making my spedometer read around 70% high. I have an Aristo ecu, and I did experience the fuel cut when the speedometer read ~115mph (around 75mph actually). I saw a post previously wondering if these ecu's actually had a fuel cut with this mod.
Now to figure out this vacuum leak and get this puppy in tip top shape. Thanks again for all your help, everyone.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I have seen it done on the 2jzge auto, the torque converter lockup doesn't work so highway driving can become an issue etc.. I don't think it is really worth it once you get a lsd and sticky tires it wont last long in stock form anyways.
If one had to have an auto I would put in a 2jzgte auto and add the wiring, or get a harness done and put it in at the same time.
The 1jzgte non vvti I think uses a similar older type of auto as the 2jzge non vvti with the kick down cable from the throttle body or some type of hybrid, I haven't really messed with the autos much but so I can't say for sure on that topic but I think this is why some say to use this one as it may be more electronically compatible with the 2jzge but not sure about the 2jzgte ecu. all the autos should physically bolt up though.
The vvti will most definitely not work with a non vvti ecu as the vvti use a newer setup that is wired differently from both the gte non vvti and ge non vvti. good news is the vvti gte can be swapped in place of a vvti ge so for a vvti setup you can use a 2jzgte vvti auto plug and play with the vvti harness.
Also getting harder to find 1jz non vvti transmissions.

I would personally go straight to a t56, but a R series setup is always a good manual option too.

Guess they do go bad every once in a while then, good find. The jdm ecu in a usdm chassis will speed cut around 115mph if your speedometer was reading right. There is also boost cut at just over a bar of boost, both I think also flash the CEl at you.
If you have a manual setup you can disconnect the speed signal going into the ecu and it wont cut but you may get a cel. They make speed cut defender and boost cut add ons also, but if you fix the ratio issue maybe with the right speedometer gear or a converter box it should raise it back to normal also.

sc3hundo

That's what I ended up doing, just taking off the speed sensor. I'll just ride around with a GPS speedo until I can get a speed cut defender.
Thanks again for your help Ali, here's a video of my car running.

MrGi11

Thanks for the information, brother. You are a wealth of knowledge! Cheers.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You can leave the speed sensor connected so the cluster works, just pull the pin at the ecu on a manual so the ecu doesn't know what the speed is.
Some used to put a switch on it so you can disable it for going to the track etc.. and have it normal for normal use.
If you are auto then it gets alot more complicated very quickly.
Boost cut can be annoying so its not a bad idea to raise it or get the boost cut controller thing.

No problem, I'd like to be more helpful with automatics but I generally avoid them at all costs unless they are solid and just work like the GM stuff.
At the end of the day its a fair amount of work to swap in a 1jzgte or 2jzgte auto and wire it up properly, that being said it can be done but most wouldn't want to mess with the wiring.
Then it will only hold bpu power and if you go past that building a gte auto is pricey and you need coolers, standalone to control it well so it gets complicated and expensive fast.

At a certain point a manual swap starts to look like less of a headache to me, and you only need to wire the speed sensor, reverse and if it is a T56 then the reverse lockout is always a good idea
Have I said T56 enough times

sc3hundo

Little update...had my car dyno'd and I made 359whp and 311 TQ with this mod. Thanks again everyone for the help!

RudysSC

^^ Looks and sounds awesome!

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

Nice numbers! Can you share any further info on your setup? I.e., CR, turbo, full exhaust?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Nice run, sounds great! I know it's off topic but I love that color combo

Do you have a manual boost controller in? If you add a mbc on there you can gain some spool.
And I am not sure I heard the bov kick in (check placement or vac source)... small stuff but some pointers to help get it dialed in.

Z30PT

hello, any wiring diagram for a 2JZ GE Automatic? What are the additional connections that must be made to make it work with the GTE Automatic control unit?