Its a 93 harness. The voltage on the map signal wire is 2.x with key on engine off and when running its 1.x. i also made shure that pin 66 was moved to 62. The only think i can think of is maybe were i soldered the old maf wire to the new map signal wire, it isnt making a good connection and the ecu is not getting the signal

 

So the problem was the hks fcd i installed. Does it not work with a map sensor and only maf? From what i read online it should work fine but for whatever reason it was blocking the signal to the ecu. I had it set on #9 as is recommended.

 

The various fuel cut defenders are for the map sensor, you must have had something up with the wiring or the FCD itself or settings.
I haven't used one much, most of the time if on the stock ecu I use 550s and a piggyback which raises boost cut a little anyways.
If I am running more than that I just put in the standalone.

Using the FCD means you will have no protection in an overboost situation.
Make sure your vac line going to the wastegate doesn't melt, if that happens all it takes is one good pull/overboost to blow the HG at the least.
Happens alot more often than you would think.

 

Alright guys I'm back. I'm running a jzs147 tt ecu on a 94usdm 2jzge. Is300 coils, 440 injectors, tt headgasket, ffim, q45tb, 2jzge tps sensor. I had this engine running on the stock manifold but now I'm ffim. Just rebuilt a new engine harness from oem mk4 supra engine harness. Although I'm having the same exact issue as my old harness. I have it wired up just like the previous 2 builds I had done. For some reason its super rich and black smoke falls the spark plugs and won't barely rev up and when it does its not peppy. I have 2 ecus and 2 map sensors they all do the same... ill take some pictures in the morning. Engine is in a 240sx and I have all the powered stuff coming off and external fusebox. I'm thinking that things acting up. I did change it a while ago around the time the car started to act up on the stock ge mani. Mind you guys I ran the oem intake for about 5rys on tt ecu daily driving and drifting the car so I know its something stupid. Anybody here on ffim and q45tb tt ecu? Chime in please. I'm gonna run codes tomorrow

 

What ffim setup? You could have an air leak. Next guess would be fried map sensor. Was it already is300 coils before it was acting up? if so then that's not it.
make sure the harness is for a ge or if it is a gte harness you have to flip the pins for the tps sensor. ge sensor and ge harness is ok, ge sensor and gte harness or gte sensor and ge harness need a flip.

 

It's a plenum style manifold welded to some runners that I had laying around for an itb setup. There short runners with velocity stacks inside. It's like a 3 inch runners. I had the flange milled flat by a machinist and when I had it running I sprayed carb cleaner and it seams really tight seal. Using OEM gasket. I think the manifolds pretty solid. I'll take somsome pics. I sent the ecu out and had it rebuilt by relentless motorsports. Bassically back when I had the na intake it started to have these symptoms. I think its stuck in open loop mode. I got brand new injectors high impedance and made no difference. Bassically of I clean the spark plugs it will fire up and run kinda crammed out till it warms up. I dont have the iacv bolted on yet. I dident use back when it ran and I drove it alot so i know it's not really necessary to get it running. The ecu is defiantly in open loop at idle. I'm assuming it's the tps adjustment. My harness never came with a o2 sensor wiring. I'm wondering if anybody can check a spare harness for their 4 wire o2 sensor wiring. I'm trying to double check my pins. I always had is300 coils when it ran good and in sticking with them. I'm not sure if I have a gte harness. It defiantly came off a mk4 ge. I'm pretty sure the harness is solid. I'll double check the wiring once again though. So to set the q45tb and ge sensor. How do I go about? Also someone please check there spare harness for o2 sensor wiring please. I got a schematic but I think I'm reading it wrong.

 

I realized that I left the distributor plug wiring the way it came from OEM and specifically pin #7 on the dizzy ge ecu calls for shared ground. I had that wire going into NE on the jzs147 ecu. Hopefully I dident fry anything. Does this sound normal? I forgot how I wired when I originally had running 6yrs ago. So Pin G on the distributor plug needs to be grounded to either e11 or e1? Right? Ohh and I have map and tps T'ed together going into e2. Not sure if they have to be completely separate or they merge in the harness which is I think what happens. I'm going to try it tomorro. Bassically the engine fired up and ran like doodoo rich for 5 min. I let it sit over night and now there a no start. I'm redoing my bussman fusebox which powers all the stuff for the engine. Everything seams to check out continuity wise and power/ground. I think this G wire situation could be the cause of my issues. Also the map sensor wasent changing when I would unplug as it ran for that 5 min. I got 2 sensors they look fine and did work

 

I'm redoing the power/grounds/trigger on a pre wired bussman 5 wire 15amp fuse output along with 5 wire 30amp fuse and relay box mounted in the back of the car next to the battery. It gives power to my ecu 4 power wires on the amp ecu plug. Then I got 5 more wires that's powered up going to the engine harness which is coils,ignitor,o2,iacv,injectors. I got the starter/alertaor/fuel pump on it's own circuit and I dont have to add. Previously I was trying to get it to run with some the wires bunched together on a small amp fuses. It was hacked without the fusebox. I'm hoping to have success. I do have a ecumaster classic with jumper if anybody happened to have a tune using the distributor and vvti coils. I couldent get it to fire but in willing to try again of the tt ecu acts up

 

I got 50pounds of fuel pressure with the engine off. Verified map. Map sensor tested out with 2.6 signal, 5v and ecu ground. Checked coolant temp and got ground/ecu continuity. I'm gonna check the signal while cranking and mayby even oul the sensor and replace it. I noticed my rad fluid had some rust. Mayby that damaged the sensor. I pulled #1 plug and checked spark grounding on the head and the spark seams weak although it is sparking. I'm lost man. What sensors 100% keep this thing from starting? I got continuity all 4 dizzy wires. I'm gonna swap the distributor to see if that's it. Engine was running then out of nowhere nothing. I rechecked the vvti coils wiring. Power and ground is there. All the signals have continuity. Brand new coils, wires, plugs. My timing light thought is not flashing though. Hence why weak spark. I'm gonna try and pull the codes. I've never been too successful at that.

 

Not really sure how to tag ALISC3 but I just wanted to say thank you very much. I followed this thread to the T and after a few kinks my 2jz swapped 4runner runs awesome.

Here is my set up
SC300 2jz
jzs147 TT ecu
Is300 wasted spark coil packs and igniter
Holset HE351cw internally gated to 10psi
Supraworld log manifold
TRE 440cc injectors
Walbro 450 fuel pump
6an fuel lines
43psi fuel pressure on a cheap FPR
Deepmotor intake manifold & 90mm throttle body
1jzgte non vvti tps
1jz map sensor
GM delphi IAT
IS300 4wire 02 sensor

the only real issue I had was I swapped the sc300 tps on my intake manifold and it ran like crap and I was not able to set base timing. Then I realized the tps wires need to be flipped to read properly and it still ran bad. Then I realized quickly that a needed the gte tps to work properly with my throttle body lol. After all that I was immediately able to set base timing. The AFRs are perfect on my AEM gauge. I am just amazed on how good this thing runs.

Another cool addition was the Deep motor intake manifold has a revison for the sc300 idle air control valve. I bolted that on and my start up idle was perfect. The GE idle air control valve do not have check valves to stop boost leaks so I added a 1/8 npt ball check valve straight out out the side of the manifold so it works great in vacuum and closes in boost to prevent boost leaks.

Anyways, thats my experience with this mod. This will all be documented on my youtube channel including the wiring process. My channel name is Slightly Modified. Its the SAS 2jz 4runner build!

Instagram: @is300garza

Take care everybody!

 

crank and cam grounds are shared and go to ne- on the ecu, emphasis on the minus. not shared common ground.
look at the ecu pinout

 

Yo where did you get that coil pack cover? The engine bay looks so clean and it's a beautiful build!

Question for anyone- I heard that in order to push significant amounts of power i would need to install a gte oil pump with a crank position sensor. I'm wondering if this is necessary and if there is any drawbacks to getting timing just on the distributor, and if I would need a crank position sensor for timing with a standalone. Thanks in advance

 

Nice 4runner!! looks great and first intercooler grill I've ever seen. glad it worked out for you always enjoy seeing the good results!
you can also plumb the iacv into the ic piping to skip the check valve, but your way works if you can find the right sized check valve that won't leak

 

If you are on a stock ge bottom end and you run a gte oil pump you will have excess oil pressure.
You will in short time push out the front main seal, then after that the rear main seal. Both of those make messes and are not fun jobs to do twice.
Gte is not always better, remember it has 6 oil squirters which are basically 6 large oil leaks inside the engine that the GE does not have at all.

Some standalones can be touchy with the distributor but not all of them, more often than not it works just fine.
The distributor is rpm based, so it doesnt have a power limit really and usually if there are issues it shows up at lower rpms like starting not on the higher rpm range.
If you did want to get a more solid crank signal you would want to use a vvti 2jzge oil pump which also has the mount for a sensor.
I put one of those on all the ge blocks I refresh, usually with a vvti crank gear just in case I ever want to go vvti head in the future.. but most of the time I just end up running off the dizzy.

You do have to take the oil pan off to disconnect the oil pickup tube from the bottom of the oil pump in order to remove it, so its not something you can just do in the car with the timing belt, the motor is gonna need to come out unless you have magic hands or something.
So if I had a working ge pump and a working dizzy I wouldn't bother, but if I was pulling the motor anyways and having a look at the bearings etc.. then yeah your right there anyways.

 

Ali,

My SC has worked great on the TT ECU mod for years and I've moved it on to another owner. He is interested in going stand alone and I was wondering if you had any suggestions for a plug and play system for the early aristo or non vvti JDM supra so that he wouldn't have to undo all the wiring that was already done. Sorry if this is out of place but I'm coming up empty otherwise.
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