Thats correct its the total effect or dynamic compression, retarding the timing is a good tool if you don't raise the boost to compensate. If you raise the boost you are back to the same dynamic compression, except with more lag and heat. I like to run as much timing as safe, and use other methods to reduce the compression.
If you can live with under 400hp, then you can walk the fine line on pump gas and stock compression, and it makes quite a street machine, low end performance from higher comp and the stock intake is very noticeable.

For those who don't think that will be enough I would say just go ahead and do the TT headgasket right away or at least before you turn it up all the way.

Six sense good luck at the track, I don't know the hp of my car, when I was stock compression it made 330rwhp at 9 psi.
Now I have a TT gasket and am at 14 psi, but I have a FFIM and a much better ignition system so I would guess close to 400.

apparently these ecu's need a boost cut controller normally, has anyone hit boost cut yet?
Im wondering if it even works before I bite the bullet so I can turn it up some more.

 

thx for all info fir i will be using it for my project

 

I know this info is out there, but I made a super easy diagram of how to fix the A/C when using an Aristo ECU.

Relay is from Radio Shack. It was less than $4. Click here to see the relay at Radio Shack's website

The silver color in the pic below represents solder points/exposed wire. Both of the pin numbers are for the smaller 40 pin connector w/o a bolt.

 

Srry guys just got back from miami...
Thanks ali gonna need it bro haha yea im good with 400whp for now how many degrees would you think i should retard?

 

looks good, yeah that 1 day without a/c until I wired it up was a pain.

maybe try 6 or 8 degrees base timing instead of 10, that should get you started.

 

Got my car started and running with jdm ecu, walbro, gm iat, jdm map, 550cc injectors, and vvti coils + ds62 ignitor. And got tach working. No down pipe, fuel control, or o2 sensors connected. Drove it about 3 blocks before a flame came out of the turbo. I know I'm running crazy rich and actually have to burn the left over fuel for a while before getting it started after shutting it off.

Now my question is, I couldn't get the car the accelerate much and it would sputter horribly at about 2300 rpm. I'm assuming it's because to much fuel but want to get some outside input. Also my brakes went out while I was driving. I think I broke a brake line while I was lifting the engine to take oil pan out but my buddy doesn't think so since there is still fluid in the reservoir. Is there a vacuum line that if left open would mess up braking? I know for a fact I broke power steering lines but I could give less or a **** about that but i can't tell if there is brake fluid on the floor or all power steering fluid.

 

don't drive the car without a downpipe... will potentially burn up the turbine wheel...

if a vacuum line was left off, the brakes would still work, just be very hard to push...

no offense man, but you should get the basics sorted out before everything else...

 

Never heard of turbine wheel burning up for lack of downpipe. Melting some **** in the engine bay was expected and I was already prepared for that after having a similar problem with our 1st gen rx7. The basics were learned a few engine swaps and builds ago. Was just curious about braking issue since it seems to make no sense atm

 

yeah If you have no check lights on the dash, I would think the sputtering is because of how rich you are running.
Im surprised it started honestly you are running severely rich, if you had a wideband it would be richer than 10.
I wouldn't run it like that for very long without the o2 sensor at the least, you can use the stock one temporarily but you will need the downpipe.
I have heard claims that the GTE o2 sensor can adjust enough for 550's to be manageable, but there were not much more details than that or data to back it up. most likely you will still be running rich but it should run clean. Either that or you need an afc.

for the brakes, make sure the brake booster hose is on good and the check valve is like stock. I can't think of anything else unless you pinched one of those hard brake lines, anything else should show up as a leak somewhere, a visual check is really the only way to start diagnosing brake issues .

 

Never seen it or heard of it happening because most won't do it long enough to matter, but, its the same theory as melting exhaust valves - having fresh air in the immediate area of the outlet increases temps so much that it could cause serious issues...

just fix it right...

seriously, clean up your mess, inspect brake lines for leaks, fix the downpipe issue, and go from there...

it is hard to fix the weird stuff if the normal stuff isn't even working right...

 

Yeah and it would cool faster after getting hotter since it's open to cool air.

Only reason for no downpipe is nearest exhaust shop is 30 miles and I have no truck or trailer.

 

you do realize that quick temperature swings are bad for metal... each heat cycle that metal takes weakens it a small amount... kinda the same reason if you run without an exhaust manifold of some sorts that exhaust valves get burnt up...

do what you want, just trying to save you some headaches...

perhaps you should be better planned... chances are an ebay 3" downpipe will fit at least enough to get it drivable and can either be modified, or work 100% to go to the rest of your exhaust...

 

Yeah I was saying that in support of what you said since it warps the metal

 

you don't need to go to an exhaust shop, just order one and slap it on. You will pay way more to have one fabricated, and chances are it won't fit as good or look as good. the universals fit fine and you can find them online everywhere.

 

I will look. I did already a little bit and was going to just make my own and just have the flange welded. The first bend from the turbo is pretty tight