2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-27-12, 08:25 AM
#496
maybe try taking out like 5% at a time, and see how it reacts. you should be able to get close with your a/f gauge, and then the ecu should be able to do the rest with the o2. a wideband is the best still but anyone can smell when its richer than 12:1
09-27-12, 02:38 PM
#497
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: tx
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I adjusted the fuel to all the way to -40 all across the low throttle. No change whatsoever. My vacuum pressure is good so I don't think there is a leak anywhere. We put in a new fuel pressure regulator in now just to make sure the stock one didn't break. Still no change. Adjusted timing with gun. No change. Now I'm kind of stuck trouble shooting on which part could be not working correctly or not wired in right
09-27-12, 03:03 PM
#498
I would have to go with the map sensor, because -40 should make a large difference.
does it read what the map sensor voltage is on the safc?
you should be getting just over 2V on the middle pin of the map sensor. if you see 4.8 or 5v you have it wired wrong.
either that or your in/out settings on the safc are not right, or both. probably an easy fix once you figure it out.
does it read what the map sensor voltage is on the safc?
you should be getting just over 2V on the middle pin of the map sensor. if you see 4.8 or 5v you have it wired wrong.
either that or your in/out settings on the safc are not right, or both. probably an easy fix once you figure it out.
09-27-12, 05:12 PM
#499
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: tx
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would have to go with the map sensor, because -40 should make a large difference.
does it read what the map sensor voltage is on the safc?
you should be getting just over 2V on the middle pin of the map sensor. if you see 4.8 or 5v you have it wired wrong.
either that or your in/out settings on the safc are not right, or both. probably an easy fix once you figure it out.
does it read what the map sensor voltage is on the safc?
you should be getting just over 2V on the middle pin of the map sensor. if you see 4.8 or 5v you have it wired wrong.
either that or your in/out settings on the safc are not right, or both. probably an easy fix once you figure it out.
edit:just checked with multimeter. now if im using it right. touching negative to ground positive to 5V it is showing 2.4V. the nnegative to ground positive to signal(middle) wire it is showing nothing. then negative to signal positive to 5V it shows 2.4V again. thought it was wierd that the signal would work as a ground so would that mean wiring problem. OR what i am begining to think is that the ECU i have is either not a JDM GTE ECU or just doesnt work. Even though the car does start and drive it is just super rich and idles way to high. and Map sensor does give me a pressure signal that i can read on my safc.
the sticker is completely removed from the ECU so i cant get any part numbers off of it. would a pin 62 that isnt connected to anything act like a ground? like if the ecu i have doesnt use the pin 62???
idk what im doing anymore haha
Last edited by briggs33; 09-27-12 at 06:45 PM.
09-28-12, 02:04 PM
#501
you probably have the right ecu, chances are you did not do the wiring correctly from the maf to map sensor.
you also have to remember to move the pin at the ecu to pin 62.
the outside wires on the map sensor, you should be getting 4.8-5v across the power and ground or you did the wiring from the maf plug incorrectly. you cannot expect it to output the right signal when the power and ground are not correct. you need to fix that first or the middle pin will be messed up, which is why I knew it was the map sensor wiring right away.
with the safc in the mix, middle pin on map sensor should go to input on safc, and output of safc should go to pin 62.
the reason your car runs is because the signal is on the low side, reading to the ecu that you are always in vac no matter what changes you make on the afc. it breaks up under load because the ecu still thinks you are in full vac, thats my guess at least.
you also have to remember to move the pin at the ecu to pin 62.
the outside wires on the map sensor, you should be getting 4.8-5v across the power and ground or you did the wiring from the maf plug incorrectly. you cannot expect it to output the right signal when the power and ground are not correct. you need to fix that first or the middle pin will be messed up, which is why I knew it was the map sensor wiring right away.
with the safc in the mix, middle pin on map sensor should go to input on safc, and output of safc should go to pin 62.
the reason your car runs is because the signal is on the low side, reading to the ecu that you are always in vac no matter what changes you make on the afc. it breaks up under load because the ecu still thinks you are in full vac, thats my guess at least.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-28-12 at 02:09 PM.
09-30-12, 07:07 PM
#502
Driver
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: tx
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok so I have mine all wired up, coils, tps, map the works
The issue is when i start it, it idles awesome, super smooth, but only for a few seconds, then it starts running like crap, not holding a constant idle and I have one code, which i expected, 21 for the o2 sensors. Also it dies if i try to give it any gas.
my questions are would running a code 21 cause the car to not idle?
I have a q45 throttlebody, which was on my car with the stock ecu and running fine. do i need to change the wiring on them?
thanks!
The issue is when i start it, it idles awesome, super smooth, but only for a few seconds, then it starts running like crap, not holding a constant idle and I have one code, which i expected, 21 for the o2 sensors. Also it dies if i try to give it any gas.
my questions are would running a code 21 cause the car to not idle?
I have a q45 throttlebody, which was on my car with the stock ecu and running fine. do i need to change the wiring on them?
thanks!
09-30-12, 08:13 PM
#503
That does sound like its TPS related, are you using the q45 tps or the adapter?
I think the wiring may need to be changed on the q45 tps if you are running that. GE and gte tps turn different directions. The Ge and the q45 turn the same way, which is why when you use the q45 tps adapter and a toyota tps you use the NA one.
When I was running the aem, the q45 tps worked fine for me. when I installed the GTE ecu I tried it as it was wired and I could get it to start but thats about it with the wiring thats posted online.. I may have had other issues at the time but im pretty sure that was one of them. I got one of those tps adapters to use the toyota tps, the n/a on from the sc300 and it seems to work well. Someone posted up some wiring for using the q45 tps for use with the GE, maybe that may work but the toyota tps adapter is nice cause you don't need to cut the wires. sounds like you already tried the ge wiring though so maybe the adapter if you have to keep the q45 throttle body.
I think the wiring may need to be changed on the q45 tps if you are running that. GE and gte tps turn different directions. The Ge and the q45 turn the same way, which is why when you use the q45 tps adapter and a toyota tps you use the NA one.
When I was running the aem, the q45 tps worked fine for me. when I installed the GTE ecu I tried it as it was wired and I could get it to start but thats about it with the wiring thats posted online.. I may have had other issues at the time but im pretty sure that was one of them. I got one of those tps adapters to use the toyota tps, the n/a on from the sc300 and it seems to work well. Someone posted up some wiring for using the q45 tps for use with the GE, maybe that may work but the toyota tps adapter is nice cause you don't need to cut the wires. sounds like you already tried the ge wiring though so maybe the adapter if you have to keep the q45 throttle body.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-30-12 at 08:20 PM.
09-30-12, 08:27 PM
#504
Driver
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: tx
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im using the q45 tps
ok, so what you are saying is that the ge and the q45 move the same direction, but the gte goes opposite?
i already have the wires cut and soldered, when i had the car boosted using the ge ecu and and AFC NEO.
Also I ran the tach wire from the ge igniter plug to the ecu, was that correct? and then to get the tach to work just jump the resistor?
thanks! i so close i can taste it
ok, so what you are saying is that the ge and the q45 move the same direction, but the gte goes opposite?
i already have the wires cut and soldered, when i had the car boosted using the ge ecu and and AFC NEO.
Also I ran the tach wire from the ge igniter plug to the ecu, was that correct? and then to get the tach to work just jump the resistor?
thanks! i so close i can taste it
Last edited by duhafnusa4; 09-30-12 at 11:05 PM.
09-30-12, 10:09 PM
#505
Driver
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: tx
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
update
So i have tested it with the signal reversed and still no go, it does the same thing, it also does the same thing when the sensor is completely, disconnected. I checked to make sure the signal was getting all the way back to the ecu and it is.
Could it be possible that the voltage range i am getting (.9v-4.5v) is incorrect?
what should be my next course of action?
So i have tested it with the signal reversed and still no go, it does the same thing, it also does the same thing when the sensor is completely, disconnected. I checked to make sure the signal was getting all the way back to the ecu and it is.
Could it be possible that the voltage range i am getting (.9v-4.5v) is incorrect?
what should be my next course of action?
10-01-12, 06:53 AM
#506
well it has to do with the voltage range, and also the IDL pin, has to be just right. I would recommend using the toyota tps with the q45 throttle body, it simplifies it, or you can try the wiring for q45 > 2jzgte if you can find it for the q45 tps.
10-01-12, 08:21 PM
#508
Driver
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: tx
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey so another update
I have a USDM TT ECU and i ran the one wire for the maf signal to pin 66, and it runs!!!!
the issue now is that when i give it a small amount of partial throttle, the revs go up then down in quick succession.
What could resolve this? since thats all thats keeping me from driving it! oh that and me needing 550cc injectors
I have a USDM TT ECU and i ran the one wire for the maf signal to pin 66, and it runs!!!!
the issue now is that when i give it a small amount of partial throttle, the revs go up then down in quick succession.
What could resolve this? since thats all thats keeping me from driving it! oh that and me needing 550cc injectors
10-01-12, 08:35 PM
#509
nice, guess its a usdm ecu, if you are running the odb1 sc maf, you will need to get a tt maf its hotwire type.
also 440cc injectors will probably be lean enough to cause revving issues with the usdm gte ecu, you are gonna need those 550's.
also 440cc injectors will probably be lean enough to cause revving issues with the usdm gte ecu, you are gonna need those 550's.