[QUOTE=SixSense;7548319]I have a tial already with a 7psi spring but i dnt think its seated correctly i think i hear it crack open around 14-15ish psi

but im gonna make it my mission to do what ive been trying not to do and take the damn mani off and reseat the wg gonna be a long weekend lol i think its mostly because i was using a hand held alan wrench and it did not squish down enough on the new gasket not sure but im gonna check it all out

 

quick question..

i have
1992 Sc300 5spd

MAP ecu 3

GTE patch harness

Na-t setup

ALL PARTS HAVE NOT BEEN INSTALLED YET

i can buy a aristo ecu locally(jdm gte a/t)

Question is how would i rewire the GTE patch harness to connect to the sc300 harness?

basically i want to run the car with stock dizzy,GTE/Aristo ecu w/ patch harness, and mapecu3

David

 

Nobody has had any success with running the dizzy in its stock form it just doesn't run right make your life a little easier and just go waste spark 😋

 

the patch harness may be for a GTE, but you will need to make the changes on page 1 if they arent done, it really doesnt matter if you do it on your patch harness or your main harness, those changes must be made.

I would recommend going coil on plug. there is a theory on how to get the stock distributor to work if you want to test it out, you still need a ds62 ignitor, you just tie the three outputs together and run it to the stock coil, instead of running it to 3 seperate coils. supossedly this can work but it has not been tested yet.

 

What's required to run e85 with the tt ecu if possible just noticed a station about 3 miles from home

 

Bigger injectors, bigger pump, SS fuel filters,Map ecu or EMS if you want a realiable setup.

Before anyone says safc, i have never seen anyone use it on E85 with success, and i think replacing the HG to a tt one will be your cheaspest option.

Because Daily Driving an E85 powered SC is not cheap i spent alittle over $7XX a month on gas on my car, This is why I am going with an Ecu that can do flex fuel / Or buy another dalily

GL

 

lol woow and i was bi****** about the 200 bi weekly im really gonna be pissed with e85 man screw it ive been trying to find every way around that hg to keep my compression but it seems the only way to make this thing reliable at 500 whp is to spend a $1000 bucks on either a hg and map ecu setup or a full standalone which is just a million lightyears away from my budget

 

will the first gen map ecu do us with the TT ecu mod any justice??

 

Unless it has seperate injector and timing control like the emanage ultimate, or AEM FIC, I wouldn't say so.

The JDM ECU is already Speed-density, so there is no need to convert it to , well speed-density!

 

I get what your saying but there is no way to adjust timing/fuel maps (not including the dizzy) with the tt ecu alone now the fi/c and e-Ultimate and map ecu 2-3 do have timing control to allow you to create your own fuel/timing maps according to well knock readings, detonation etc which in conjunction with dialing back timing on the dizzy might be pretty successful getting a na-t running 14-15psi safely!

IMO i believe its possible i dialed back my timing to 6 degrees and finally fixed my tial wg after feeling like a dumba** having the top banjo fitting in i really didnt know it would effect it working properly lol hey you live and you learn!

 

On 93 oct and 512whp on stock ge with tt HG,single walbro, stock rail, stock fuel lines feed and return, stock fpr, 1000cc, aem v1, r154, 3.26 rear end I was getting between 25- 27mpg.

I wasn't at the gas station every morning like i do now.

What trans are you running? That na auto will not make 500whp and be reliable ..

If you car is running properly , don't mess with it , just starts saving for a Trans first before you do the HG . It won't matter because you can't put the power down..

 

with stock compression, you can maybe get away with 14 psi depending on turbo of course if you dial back the base timing some to maybe 6 degrees, really depends on your specific motor and turbo. Im not saying 18 psi can't be done a few times, but for reliability concerns I would never push it past 1 bar with stock compression (i would probably not even go past 12psi) as the chance for detonation will increase faster with more boost, so for reliability i would recommend running less boost or doing the TT headgasket for up to like 1.5 bar reliably.

quicksc4 is right, you will blow an auto trans in the 400's so there is no need to worry about making more than that until you get that sorted. 10-12 psi on high compression is pretty fun, and is sort of a point where you could squeeze a bit more out, but if you really want more power you gotta switch fuel or drop the compression.

dialing back timing is not the recommended way for running more boost, I recommend that just to get the TT ecu tune a little closer to the n/a one in the lower load areas. The more you pull timing, the more inefficient the combustion stroke is, so that extra boost you maybe can get away with, is just hotter air thats taking longer to make basically the same power.

like at 10 degrees base timing on my car with the TT headgasket, when I first start it cold and I immediately blip the throttle, the rpm's will actually fall because it is too advanced = not good. If I wait a minute for it to warm up without any revving, it will rev clean and you would never notice the issue but clearly the timing is too advanced upon initial start and this causes the ecu to pull timing as it warms up.
setting it at 7-8 degrees I can cold start it and there is not 1 bit of stumble even if you immediately rev it a bit. The issues it the GTE ecu runs more timing down low to make up for the lower compression before turbo 1 gets going, and its only because its lower compression that it can do that. to make it work on our cars we dial back the base timing till it runs smooth.
Like if you ran tt headgasket and tt pistons to make it very close to true gte compression, you would want to do full 10 degrees base timing.
My car runs perfect at 8 degrees base timing, but I would think for stock ge compression pulling a little more may be needed.

 

I have a factory 5spd even tho i know its not likely it will hold 500whp safely for long... im not trying to go out and run 500whp tomorrow its just in the plans so im trying to figure out if i have to drop my compression really low to get in the 500+ range or will this be possible with only the TT hg i know there are many things to upgrade when going this way and i know you guys have had a little more experience so its why i came here lol

 

Here is what's gonna happen :

You gonna replace the HG and you will be like ok , my car is still running rich so i can turn the boost up 2 more psi and get away with it!
Once you have the setup that can hold more power/will make more power you will want more and you will break that transmission,People say they made 500+whp on W58 and drag race it , I don't believe that not in a 3700lbs car it will not work.
Start saving for an R154 and You will thank me later.

I told you what you need to make 500whp, I am not understanding what you are asking.

 

I think the answer you are looking for is that the TT headgasket is what you need for that on pump gas.
with the TT headgasket your compression will allow you to reliably run 5-600hp with the right supporting mods which sounds like your goals. if you could live with 400 or less you can manage with the w58 and stock compression.