hey so im getting code 31 from my jdm aristo ecu, which is weird since thats for the maf, even weirder is when i plug in the usdm supra maf, the code goes away....

 

thats weird, code 31 on the aristo ecu is map signal check your map voltage.

on another note went and got my car dynoed for the sole purpose of using their wideband to track my a/f ratio and at wot im at 10.0 which made me comfortable enough to run a 2010 or so bmw z3 on the way home.

At 10 psi me and the 2010ish z4 were damn near even on the high way and in the light to light 1/4 with him about a half a car ahead each time.

 

I used to have an XSPower turbo. 68 on the hot side and 70 on the compressor.

 

FYI, I passed smog in AZ. My cat is gutted (only because I melted it) so I BARELY passed. 211 out of 220 allowable.

I love the crowd my car draws when the pop the hood

In other news, I'm guessing my issue is boost cut. It runs fine on the 10 PSI spring. It's worth it just for the consistency of an ECU that understands boost.

 

Can you use a auto tt ecu to run a manual 97 sc300. The ecu has to be obd2 as well am I correct?

 

nice good to hear peoples cars are running well and passing things.
at 14 psi I am showing 10.00 afr which means solid rich, SJ408 sounds like its running how its supposed to, you probably have fuel for at least a few more psi but maybe just enjoy it and break it in for a while.
yes code 31 on aristo ecu actually the map sensor. pretty much either the wiring or the map sensor itself.

yeah boost cut is one of those things we have to deal with, but with an afc you can sort of tune around it especially if you have larger injectors or there is always the boost cut controller.
I still say its worth it the ecu does everything else perfect. even started my car off an almost dead battery.

Jwin you can use an aristo ecu since you are non-vvti, but odb2 wont work right unless you get a similar odb2 non vvti supra ecu.
you may have to use a usdm one not really sure maybe the 97 supra TT ecu might do the trick.

 

ok, what voltage should it be outputting and also what resistance is within spec?

 

Ali just wanted to thank you for continuing to update this thread, I haven't read threw it yet but I just picked up a 1993 gs300 and a soarer R154 transmission, mk3 clutch pedal and ebrake and after winter going to do an NA-T and had plans already to run a JDM 2jzgte ecu with 7m CPS. Would all the jdm obd1 2jzgte ecu's work (wanting to go map sensor not maf).. ? Edit:: Just bought a ECU on ebay part number 89661-30560 for 65 bucks!

I had a question about the coil pack options and the valve covers for the 2jzge motor. I would like to switch to a twin turbo valve cover with oem spark plug cover, will either the VVTI or TT coils bolt on? (going FFIM) And I notice they would use separate igniters, so thank you for that information!

 

voltage output on signal line of map should be around 2.3 volts give or take a few tenths.

I tried out the 7m CPS on the 2jzgte ecu, and it wouldn't fire up for me.
I don't think the signals output are compatible, because even with the aem you have to change the sensitivity settings for it to work, and we can't change the settings here so the 7m CPS is not going to work unless you want to try modifying the signals, and that is not the main focus of this thread, and IMO unlikely to work reliably. the stock distributor works perfectly, so just fashion a shorter cap for it is your best bet.

aristo ecu should work fine, you can change the valve covers to twin turbo if you have a FFIM (it is a requirement) and the spark plug cover will attach to those valve covers.
The coils however, are held into place by spots drilled into the top of the head, not the valve covers at all, so short of swapping heads you wont have a factory way to mount the coils.
I just have my vvti coils wedged in the valley (pretty tight fit not alot of place for them to go, and no problems at all here even sliding the car around.
I have heard of people drilling and tapping the head for these holes, but IMO its not worth taking a drill to the head to mount some coils.
what you can do and lots of members do frequently is make a bracket to mount the coils, and use the valve cover bolt holes to attach the bracket. you can do this with any valve covers.

The TT valve covers is mainly an aesthetics upgrade. Doesn't help with installing coils at all.

 

Ive read that a 7m cps will work with a tt ecu if you rewire the grounds and flip g1 and g2 (tt ecu should be 180 out). Theres a video on youtube of one actually... I am curious if there are more people that say this does not work.

 

I bet that person is running an aem ems. I know about flipping g1 and g2, I already tried that, did not help.
I don't see how rewiring the grounds is going to help much, its wired the exact same as the distributor.
I have never seen it done with a stock gte ecu, and an aem ems gte ecu does not count, so post the link if you have seen it.

There aren't that many people who will tell you about whether it will work or not because there aren't that many people with this mod.
I only know of a handful of people outside of this thread running gte ecu's on na-t setups, and all of them are using the distributor.

 

I keep wondering why everyone is trying to re invent the wheel here... If weve already established the current method works perfectly why go the extra mile to test something in hopes of it performing like that requiring lesser work?

 

must be everyone's inner experimenter coming out. Seriously though I spent so long choosing every piece I used I must have had enough parts to make 3 different coil on plug setups, what I have posted on page 1 is the single best combo I believe you can run. sure you can also run bigger injectors and stuff, but thats all bpu info stuff is already out there

 

Whether its real or not.. I am not sure.


Dave H mentions running the 7m cps with the AEM and it being the more sensitive system. As far as the grounds go, the tt ecu requires 6 grounds that you need to send from the cps, I will try it when I decide to turbo my setup but it wont be for a while, Still getting parts for my manual swap. The reason i'd like to do it is because of the bulky distributor in comparison to a 7m CPS which I already have as well, and they send out the same signal but only one has posted he can't get his setup to run, while others never complete their project or update posts..

 

I have not tried the 7M CPS - nor do I plan to do so. What I can say from experience on my turbo motorcycle (will explain in a bit) is that those pickups in the 7M CPS are polarity sensitive.

I have a 1982 Honda CX500 Turbo. It's a bike way ahead of its time for 1982. It's a fuel injected, water cooled, shaft driven, transverse mount turbo charged V-Twin. For the electronic fuel injection, the computer reads a signal off the camshaft from a part Honda calls the speed sensor. It uses the same little pickup coils that the 7M CPS uses. In fact, my CX is currently running with pickups I took out of the 7M CPS I got when I started this project. Anyway, the bike will not run properly - or without DTC's unless the polarity is correct on both of the speed sensors. The really weird part is that getting the polariy correct is hit and miss. The wire colors on the pickups are useless. I have done this 3 times and even matching wire colors, its not consistent.

Anyway, my point to all this is that all the grounds in the 7M CPS are shared, so it may me necessary to separate them and swap stuff around to make stuff work.

This is the Honda "speed sensor"