2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#873
Maintenance Moderator
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if you are just wanting to start it and run, just hook the AIT up and leave it loose somewhere, and the map sensor is easy enough - just a vacuum hose somewhere... air temp only changes fuel trims a couple percent and thats only with big swings in temperature, you could actually run it zeroed out just for testing...
just build a harness, its only 6 wires...
just build a harness, its only 6 wires...
#874
Pole Position
iTrader: (24)
the reason why i wanted to use the premade harness was that I dont have the plugs yet, so I figure after buying new plugs, it would equal to or be more expensive.
leaving it hanging also crossed my mind, thus why I was wondering if it was required in the first place. i remember my rb25 with aem ems 2 enabled me to run maf at first, thats why I was wondering in this situation.
leaving it hanging also crossed my mind, thus why I was wondering if it was required in the first place. i remember my rb25 with aem ems 2 enabled me to run maf at first, thats why I was wondering in this situation.
#875
Maintenance Moderator
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never tried it without it at least being wired...
the AEM will run off the maf, but its a whole different calibration file, so any work you do to make it start and run will be completely wasted when you change to map...
understand about the plugs... they can get pricey...
the AEM will run off the maf, but its a whole different calibration file, so any work you do to make it start and run will be completely wasted when you change to map...
understand about the plugs... they can get pricey...
#876
Pole Position
iTrader: (24)
ok, i just thought the 1101 cal file came with maf, so was just tossing up the ideas right now. im just laying everything out before putting it under the knife a week or two later.
btw, the grounds for ignitor and map sensor, are you guys using a switched ground or body ground?
btw, the grounds for ignitor and map sensor, are you guys using a switched ground or body ground?
#877
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
ok, i just thought the 1101 cal file came with maf, so was just tossing up the ideas right now. im just laying everything out before putting it under the knife a week or two later.
btw, the grounds for ignitor and map sensor, are you guys using a switched ground or body ground?
btw, the grounds for ignitor and map sensor, are you guys using a switched ground or body ground?
it is so much of a pain to change between the two, most people just start with the different base cal if they do change, negating any work done to make it start and run on the first map...
#878
Hey guys just thought Id update with my progress, I got my NA started up today on the TT ecu with the VVti coils, ignitor and also using the whole TT fuel, intake, TB and sensors. After a few quick checks on connections I had a bad ground to the ignitor, sorted that out, and she fired straight up like a stock NA, everything else is pretty much spot on so far, idle seems good, got no CEL's and im very happy with how it fires up, seems completely stock!
I haven't driven it yet, so not sure how the autobox will respond to the TT Ecu, but I did put it in to drive and reverse and seemed to select them fine and move.
As expected the tach isn't working yet, as isn't the air-con, but everything else seems spot on so far, im impressed!
Ive used 440c injectors from a JDM TT along with the fuel rail and FPR and all the following also from a TT, lower runners (modified), intake, throttle body, IAC valve, IAT valve, Map sensor, heated oxygen sensor, PAS pump and reservior, I also did reverse the wiring for the TPS sensor.
Just a quick question regarding the VVTi coils, what sort of brackets r u guys using to hold them in place?....Also Ive not adjusted the timing yet Ive left everything stock to begin with.
Also just wanna thank Ali for this fantastic thread and ecu mod!
Here is a vid I made, this is starting from a warm engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy_ilQyLz4Y
I haven't driven it yet, so not sure how the autobox will respond to the TT Ecu, but I did put it in to drive and reverse and seemed to select them fine and move.
As expected the tach isn't working yet, as isn't the air-con, but everything else seems spot on so far, im impressed!
Ive used 440c injectors from a JDM TT along with the fuel rail and FPR and all the following also from a TT, lower runners (modified), intake, throttle body, IAC valve, IAT valve, Map sensor, heated oxygen sensor, PAS pump and reservior, I also did reverse the wiring for the TPS sensor.
Just a quick question regarding the VVTi coils, what sort of brackets r u guys using to hold them in place?....Also Ive not adjusted the timing yet Ive left everything stock to begin with.
Also just wanna thank Ali for this fantastic thread and ecu mod!
Here is a vid I made, this is starting from a warm engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy_ilQyLz4Y
You can build brackets off of the valve cover bolts, or just wedge them in the valley with something there is only like a 1/4" on each side of the coil it can move side to side.
I have a couple of questions concerning fuel injectors.
I bought 6 RC440cc injectors used and sent them off to be cleaned. they came back with
2 @ 439cc
2 @ 440cc
2 @ 441cc
I've read that the back cylinders run hotter but thought that was due to the EGR system which will be deleted. I'll be blocking at the port on exhaust side to delete the vacum port on the back of the head.
I was thinking of running them like this. Is there a better way or am I over thinking this?
Cyl 1+2 - 439cc
Cyl 3+4 - 440cc
Cyl 5+6 - 441cc
Now do these injectors just drop in or do they need different seals and o-rings? Below is why I'm asking the question.
I talked to RC and they said to run the stock injectors seals. So i went to swap the seal that goes into the manifold (bottom of the injector) and the stock seal started to tear, granted it's an old seal. The diameter on the RC injector nozzle is larger than stock. Measured both seals on their respective injectors and the RC seal is just a tad bit bigger (couple hundredths of an inch).
The stock top o-ring seems too loose on the RC injector but the one that came on them after being cleaned seem to have the same outside diameter and fit the injector better.
I bought 6 RC440cc injectors used and sent them off to be cleaned. they came back with
2 @ 439cc
2 @ 440cc
2 @ 441cc
I've read that the back cylinders run hotter but thought that was due to the EGR system which will be deleted. I'll be blocking at the port on exhaust side to delete the vacum port on the back of the head.
I was thinking of running them like this. Is there a better way or am I over thinking this?
Cyl 1+2 - 439cc
Cyl 3+4 - 440cc
Cyl 5+6 - 441cc
Now do these injectors just drop in or do they need different seals and o-rings? Below is why I'm asking the question.
I talked to RC and they said to run the stock injectors seals. So i went to swap the seal that goes into the manifold (bottom of the injector) and the stock seal started to tear, granted it's an old seal. The diameter on the RC injector nozzle is larger than stock. Measured both seals on their respective injectors and the RC seal is just a tad bit bigger (couple hundredths of an inch).
The stock top o-ring seems too loose on the RC injector but the one that came on them after being cleaned seem to have the same outside diameter and fit the injector better.
I know this answer can be checked out with a multimeter, but just wondering if you guys have the answer to this before I check it. The power signal from the ecu to stock maf, is that a 5v or 12v? I know map signal needs 5 volt signal, and dont want to send a 12 volt signal to it.
Also, If i was to use the AEM EMS 1100 with 1101 cal file, can start it off with factory maf, do I need to switch the maf signal from 66B to 62B? Or map and AIT is required?
Also, If i was to use the AEM EMS 1100 with 1101 cal file, can start it off with factory maf, do I need to switch the maf signal from 66B to 62B? Or map and AIT is required?
you do realize this is a factory gte ecu thread right.. lol
I made my own harness, but on the mk3 harness, if it attaches to your coils fine, extend the ignitor side. if it can't reach some of the coils, extend that side, but I think it should and you will most likely be doing the ignitor side.
never tried it without it at least being wired...
the AEM will run off the maf, but its a whole different calibration file, so any work you do to make it start and run will be completely wasted when you change to map...
understand about the plugs... they can get pricey...
the AEM will run off the maf, but its a whole different calibration file, so any work you do to make it start and run will be completely wasted when you change to map...
understand about the plugs... they can get pricey...
you would be better off temporarily connecting your map sensor and IAT and using the stock cal.
ok, i just thought the 1101 cal file came with maf, so was just tossing up the ideas right now. im just laying everything out before putting it under the knife a week or two later.
btw, the grounds for ignitor and map sensor, are you guys using a switched ground or body ground?
btw, the grounds for ignitor and map sensor, are you guys using a switched ground or body ground?
The map sensor has a ground wire already it is the ground wire for the maf plug as you can see on the wiring on page 1, this is a regular engine/chassis ground as well for all the sensors that I think ends up grounded on the intake manifold somewhere, but thats not important whats important is that you use the ground wire on the maf plug for the map sensor as shown. good luck.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-23-13 at 08:27 AM.
#879
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does a '92 2JZ-GE have EGR? someone at the Lexus dealer told me no but im wondering otherwise. great thread btw, thanks for posting all the research. I have a set of 550s and US auto TT ECU/maf for my lexus sc300 na-t. sounds like i need to do the coil on plug conversion and get the map sensor.
will a set of vvti is300 coils/ignitor do the trick? i dont see why not. ide like to use newer parts and stay away from any mkIII conversion stuff. ive read through about 10 pages of this thread so far ill keep reading as i may find answers scattered throughout. aside from the map sensor and the c.o.p. conversion it doesnt sound like i need to do anything else. Do i have that right?
just leave the old distributor in place and make a cover for it? pull the cap and guts out anyways... or do i have to mess with that some...its my only point of confusion. if theres a good post # maybe point me there or ill just get to it as i read.
will a set of vvti is300 coils/ignitor do the trick? i dont see why not. ide like to use newer parts and stay away from any mkIII conversion stuff. ive read through about 10 pages of this thread so far ill keep reading as i may find answers scattered throughout. aside from the map sensor and the c.o.p. conversion it doesnt sound like i need to do anything else. Do i have that right?
just leave the old distributor in place and make a cover for it? pull the cap and guts out anyways... or do i have to mess with that some...its my only point of confusion. if theres a good post # maybe point me there or ill just get to it as i read.
#881
all non vvti USDM 2JZGE 's have egr, so yes a 92 2jzge from a US car would have egr.
is300 coils will do the trick, thats what I am running right now, in fact its written like a dozen times on the first page, and not 1 mk3 part listed on the first post
you leave the distirbutor in, you simply remove the rotor, thats it. so take off the cap, remove rotor, reinstall cap.
you can only tell by part numbers if its odb1 or odb2, or you would have to know the car and year range it came off of and I could tell you.
is300 coils will do the trick, thats what I am running right now, in fact its written like a dozen times on the first page, and not 1 mk3 part listed on the first post
you leave the distirbutor in, you simply remove the rotor, thats it. so take off the cap, remove rotor, reinstall cap.
you can only tell by part numbers if its odb1 or odb2, or you would have to know the car and year range it came off of and I could tell you.
#882
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ya at some point people were talking about using older parts i dunno where, wsnt the first page. and i wasnt sure if vvti stuff would be compatible with an older ge motor. but thanks for the info! ill post an update when its done
#884
Its just that clearly the 2jzge vvti coils are the best wastespark coils toyota makes, and they are made to fit our engine, so I recomend that to everyone its a very straight forward install especially if you have ever seen the stock setup on an IS300.
you can also use some from the mk3 supra, and the 4 cylinder camry's and all of these use plug leads for each cylinder, It wont look the cleanest but if you have the parts laying around it can be done.
there are coil on plug camry coils with an extra lead coming off for wastspark like the vvti ones, but these are the wrong length and not as big as the vvti coils or as good really.
you can use 1ZZ coils (which is becoming really popular on a lot of engines due to their good spark and reliability), and wire up all 6 as true coil on plug like the gte coils, these have built in ignitors and all you need to do is wire them normally except you tie all 6 IGF's from the coils to 1 wire going back to the ecu, cause the TT ignitor has 1 IGF wire normally. the IGT's go straight to each coil along with a power and ground. spooxexo is running this setup check out his build for more info, I would choose these over TT coils any day of the week.
Nice, that shouldn't be hard to fix now that you got it all worked out. how is the driving at lower speeds with the 850 map ecu setup? I have read good things. a vid or picture would be great.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-03-13 at 12:22 PM.
#885
Lead Lap
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... you can even use Ford modular V8/V10 coils, but it requires custom plug wires and a custom bracket. It's silly to do so unless you have a stack of them laying around and a harness for the connectors. The one nice benefit of them is that they are cheap. I think I once paid $110 for a new set of 8 when I was running a V8 in my truck.