2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
07-12-13, 07:04 AM
#1051
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What's the best way to eliminate boost cut n speed cut on the jdm ecu. Reading on it, its sayin the hks fcd, greedy bcc is not good for the jdm ecu. Am really enjoying boost life again was missing it since I sold my Honda. But am way more happy with this boost than that boost. I got a couple of local cars to give some bus lengths with my 4 door supra.. there not going to like the sleeper in my area. O well. 
07-12-13, 07:56 AM
#1052
haven't put one on yet, but I thought all the boost cut controllers will work. I like the one that holds the signal at 14 psi and doesn't skew it. you can either make one, there is a DIY somewhere, or you can get one of the new ones I think the online supra stores sell one but its expensive to buy new. what did you hear is wrong with the greddy bcc, i though alot of people use that?
*edit* I just read online for the newer ones and it does have a note about the JDM ecu that you need a piggyback also, basically they are saying when it clamps the voltage it will always think its at 14 psi even if you are at 20 psi, so you need to make sure there is enough fuel for your boost, its not like the US version where it clamps the map sensor and the maf can still read how much air is coming in. This just seems like a general warning though, and is pretty normal we all know the ecu thinks its at 14 psi on the JDM ecu when you install one of these, thats why we use piggybacks and larger injectors to make more power with the same tune.
*edit* I just read online for the newer ones and it does have a note about the JDM ecu that you need a piggyback also, basically they are saying when it clamps the voltage it will always think its at 14 psi even if you are at 20 psi, so you need to make sure there is enough fuel for your boost, its not like the US version where it clamps the map sensor and the maf can still read how much air is coming in. This just seems like a general warning though, and is pretty normal we all know the ecu thinks its at 14 psi on the JDM ecu when you install one of these, thats why we use piggybacks and larger injectors to make more power with the same tune.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-12-13 at 08:03 AM.
07-12-13, 08:31 AM
#1053
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Ok Ali, with that said. What piggyback system r u using...... N how much boost.
Can't I just use a boost controller n set it for 14-16 psi for now til I get some coin. What the highest?
Also I installed the 3 wire o2 into my downpipe n did some driving sputter is gone. Boost cut sucks *****.
Can't I just use a boost controller n set it for 14-16 psi for now til I get some coin. What the highest?
Also I installed the 3 wire o2 into my downpipe n did some driving sputter is gone. Boost cut sucks *****.
Last edited by gssleeping; 07-12-13 at 08:32 AM. Reason: mis spelling
07-12-13, 09:43 AM
#1054
I have an safc in right now but its completely zero'd out just using it to monitor some stuff its actually coming off tonight. I basically just have the aristo ecu, no BCC or speed cut controller.
I use a manual boost controller and set it to 14 psi, and it pulls hard and I have never hit boost cut, but I have a feeling a few more psi and I would. it just takes like 30 min of slowly turning the boost up till you get to around 13-14 and if you go over and hit boost cut, just back it off a little bit until its all good. you only need the BCC if you go past 14 psi or if your car spikes past 14, mine holds 14 perfectly with the ball and spring MBC.
past 14 psi with the 440cc injectors, you should use a wideband to make sure the fuel is still good, as there is no safety left but generally it runs very rich even at 14 psi.
I have hit speed cut before it was around 110-115 and was not fun at all, but I rarely go that fast so I haven't bothered about deleting it but if you have a manual trans you can probably mess with the speed wire to the ecu, its on the JDM supra pages somewhere how to get past it or simply just get a speed cut controller.
I use a manual boost controller and set it to 14 psi, and it pulls hard and I have never hit boost cut, but I have a feeling a few more psi and I would. it just takes like 30 min of slowly turning the boost up till you get to around 13-14 and if you go over and hit boost cut, just back it off a little bit until its all good. you only need the BCC if you go past 14 psi or if your car spikes past 14, mine holds 14 perfectly with the ball and spring MBC.
past 14 psi with the 440cc injectors, you should use a wideband to make sure the fuel is still good, as there is no safety left but generally it runs very rich even at 14 psi.
I have hit speed cut before it was around 110-115 and was not fun at all, but I rarely go that fast so I haven't bothered about deleting it but if you have a manual trans you can probably mess with the speed wire to the ecu, its on the JDM supra pages somewhere how to get past it or simply just get a speed cut controller.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-12-13 at 09:48 AM.
07-24-13, 09:00 AM
#1056
Thing is I only have access to:
-91 octane for $3.80/gal, sometimes 90 or 89 since people where I live only buy 87 and it goes bad.
-VP Leaded 110 race fuel for $9.95/gal
-To hell with meth, it's dumb. When you run out on a static tune, you will kill the engine. Might as well install a nitrous system :rolleyes
So that leaves me with my current target goal of:
-Aristo ECU
-550cc hi-imp inj
-Motorola 2.5 bar MAP /Or as I'm typing this with the next mod, a GM 3 Bar.
-AEM FIC. Fuel and timing control/ OEM Idle, IACV, A/C, etc with the power of 16 x 16 AFR and timing control.
-91 octane for $3.80/gal, sometimes 90 or 89 since people where I live only buy 87 and it goes bad.
-VP Leaded 110 race fuel for $9.95/gal
-To hell with meth, it's dumb. When you run out on a static tune, you will kill the engine. Might as well install a nitrous system :rolleyes
So that leaves me with my current target goal of:
-Aristo ECU
-550cc hi-imp inj
-Motorola 2.5 bar MAP /Or as I'm typing this with the next mod, a GM 3 Bar.
-AEM FIC. Fuel and timing control/ OEM Idle, IACV, A/C, etc with the power of 16 x 16 AFR and timing control.
07-24-13, 09:21 AM
#1057
yeah alot of na-t guys used to do it instead of the headgasket. It works you just have to watch it or get one of those warning systems. I always prefer to just do the headgasket, but I have been itching to have an e-85 setup eventually.
07-24-13, 02:06 PM
#1058
I actually saw a 50hp drop in power when tuning a 04' STi at 5200rpm when we though there was knock, we took out 1 degree of timing a lost 50hp on the Meth tune!
True it works, but the thing is, like nitrous it runs out eventually.
Nothing a little timing adjustment can't fix.
Unlike most people who do builds for "Peak" dyno numbers, I am shooting for a safe tune with a good torque ramp down low on a T3 frame turbo alone.
07-26-13, 11:08 AM
#1059
Going to do this either tonight or next weekend. Just want to be sure I have everything!
1997 OBDII Supra TT ecu
MAP sensor
TT MAF
550cc injectors with resistor box and pigtails
IS300 coils
DS62 ignitor
Am I forgetting anything? I've also got that harness that Jwin was going to use be ended up selling to me.
edit: Also how do I know if my map sensor is USDM or JDM? or does this not matter either?
1997 OBDII Supra TT ecu
MAP sensor
TT MAF
550cc injectors with resistor box and pigtails
IS300 coils
DS62 ignitor
Am I forgetting anything? I've also got that harness that Jwin was going to use be ended up selling to me.
edit: Also how do I know if my map sensor is USDM or JDM? or does this not matter either?
Last edited by ashtray; 07-26-13 at 11:14 AM.
07-26-13, 12:20 PM
#1060
list sounds good, hopefully the injectors you got are the top feed kind. top feed low impedance 550's are less common so just double checking with you to make sure you even need the resistor pack. not getting the right resistance on injectors will short out your ecu's injector drivers in a short time.
Map sensor does not matter if it is USDM/JDM/2JZ/1JZ and even some MR2's had the same sensor but not like its easier to find or anything. If you run into any issues post it up, I know the odb2 is a bit different but still should work out well.
Map sensor does not matter if it is USDM/JDM/2JZ/1JZ and even some MR2's had the same sensor but not like its easier to find or anything. If you run into any issues post it up, I know the odb2 is a bit different but still should work out well.
07-26-13, 01:50 PM
#1062
lol, what I was getting at is if the injectors are high impedance, you do not want to use a resistor pack, that would be bad. you only use the resistor pack on low impedance injectors (the resistorpack makes the lows into high impedance).
07-26-13, 03:23 PM
#1064
sounds good just wanted to make sure I know those ecu's are harder to come by.
for the map sensor on the stock intake manifold, what I like to do is T into the fuel pressure vac line. I know they say it should have its own, but I found the 2 sharing the same vac line to work well, as you know no matter what happens your fuel pressure regulator and your map sensor are seeing the same thing and my afr's are surprisingly stable.
for the map sensor on the stock intake manifold, what I like to do is T into the fuel pressure vac line. I know they say it should have its own, but I found the 2 sharing the same vac line to work well, as you know no matter what happens your fuel pressure regulator and your map sensor are seeing the same thing and my afr's are surprisingly stable.
07-27-13, 12:05 PM
#1065
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ALI- what o2 sensors are you runing with you tt ecu? stock ones or ones from a supra? i know the ones from a supra are heated, i'm obd2 so thats fine, but the sc had 2 at the manifold an the tt only has one after the turbos which plug works for the tt ecu