2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
08-20-13, 04:57 AM
#1096
Ali - I hope this question of mine is not out of place on this thread of yours. Though it is about the TT ECU , 2.3 map sensor and AIT sensor. I have always been wondering why when I connect my jdm ecu to my red sc with minor wiring changes , the damn car fires right up and runs actually good and the AFRs on the gauge are around 12 -14 in spite of the fact that I have 2433cc injectors and 5 bar map. Though I have never ran it more than 10 minutes on the road since I was afraid either the ECU drivers or the injectors will burn up since they are low impedance injectors.
Though at this point , my car always fires up quick anytime and runs good with the AEM v2 , I am about to embark on an ECU change to proEFI but it may take time for me to learn the ins and outs of it to get it running like the way it runs now on the AEM v2 and be able to implement all its features. So I need a way to be able to use the car while I am learning on the proEFI since I will sell the AEM.
If I slap a set of 440cc on my rail and bolt in the JDM ECU with the manual boost controller , do you think I can get away with using the AEM 5 bar map and GM AIT sensors ? Or , do I really need to use the JZ sensors ? If I have to put a plug in parallel the AEM plug and GM plug and use the 2jz map .and AIT sensors I would do it but if I don't have to, then I won't. What do you think ?
And another thing , for a long drive , will it ran crappy with those 272 cams in there with the stock ECU ? Just wondering ....
Though at this point , my car always fires up quick anytime and runs good with the AEM v2 , I am about to embark on an ECU change to proEFI but it may take time for me to learn the ins and outs of it to get it running like the way it runs now on the AEM v2 and be able to implement all its features. So I need a way to be able to use the car while I am learning on the proEFI since I will sell the AEM.
If I slap a set of 440cc on my rail and bolt in the JDM ECU with the manual boost controller , do you think I can get away with using the AEM 5 bar map and GM AIT sensors ? Or , do I really need to use the JZ sensors ? If I have to put a plug in parallel the AEM plug and GM plug and use the 2jz map .and AIT sensors I would do it but if I don't have to, then I won't. What do you think ?
And another thing , for a long drive , will it ran crappy with those 272 cams in there with the stock ECU ? Just wondering ....
Last edited by gerrb; 08-20-13 at 05:01 AM.
08-20-13, 08:02 AM
#1097
Definitely not out of place, interesting to hear you even got it started up but my guess is with the 5 bar and the 2433cc injectors you scaled the load down a bunch and the fuel up just right from the injectors for start and idle. I am guessing also you have toyota coilpacks installed of some sort.
what is odd is that you said they are low impedance, are you sure you don't have a resistor pack those injectors should have fried the injector drivers pretty much right away. if they are and they didn't fry this could be part of why its running the injectors is probably not injecting the amount the ecu is telling it if there is an impedance mismatch.
Real question is how does it rev and drive, I would guess that if you rev it up or put any load on it that it will fall on its face and the afr's will go out of range very quickly, it may be worth a quick test since you have the wideband and can monitor it but I doubt it will work well even if you can drive it around your timing will be very advanced because of your low load readings and when you boost it, it will think you are in vac still and you will have timing numbers potentially 30+ range, so in short I would not boost like that cause of the timing. you may be able to limp it around though for regular driving.
If you put 440's on there or even 550's, you can reuse the GM IAT, but you need a JZ map sensor.
I have tried a 3 bar on mine it wont even start, probably needs more injector but its hard to get the scaling right without the oem map sensor. If you have a bunch of different size injectors maybe you could find something that works but its a big maybe.
your best bet is to drop in injectors and run another map sensor plug in parralel to your current one, its just splicing 3 wires but make sure you only plug in one map at a time.
On the cam's front I am not sure, stock cams over here but I always hear the 26x run fine at idle still, and the 272 you may just want to bump your idle up a little bit. I think the stock ecu will be fine for the most part it learns as it goes along and I have found it to run better all around than any other ecu combination, except for boost it tends to run really rich without a controller, not a big deal if you crank the boost up to get your ideal afr though.
what is odd is that you said they are low impedance, are you sure you don't have a resistor pack those injectors should have fried the injector drivers pretty much right away. if they are and they didn't fry this could be part of why its running the injectors is probably not injecting the amount the ecu is telling it if there is an impedance mismatch.
Real question is how does it rev and drive, I would guess that if you rev it up or put any load on it that it will fall on its face and the afr's will go out of range very quickly, it may be worth a quick test since you have the wideband and can monitor it but I doubt it will work well even if you can drive it around your timing will be very advanced because of your low load readings and when you boost it, it will think you are in vac still and you will have timing numbers potentially 30+ range, so in short I would not boost like that cause of the timing. you may be able to limp it around though for regular driving.
If you put 440's on there or even 550's, you can reuse the GM IAT, but you need a JZ map sensor.
I have tried a 3 bar on mine it wont even start, probably needs more injector but its hard to get the scaling right without the oem map sensor. If you have a bunch of different size injectors maybe you could find something that works but its a big maybe.
your best bet is to drop in injectors and run another map sensor plug in parralel to your current one, its just splicing 3 wires but make sure you only plug in one map at a time.
On the cam's front I am not sure, stock cams over here but I always hear the 26x run fine at idle still, and the 272 you may just want to bump your idle up a little bit. I think the stock ecu will be fine for the most part it learns as it goes along and I have found it to run better all around than any other ecu combination, except for boost it tends to run really rich without a controller, not a big deal if you crank the boost up to get your ideal afr though.
08-20-13, 09:37 AM
#1098
Check my thread posts #1480 , 1481 and 1482 , you will see the vidoes there of the Aristo ECU connected and the car running. I tried it cause at the beginning I couldn't freaking get my car started with the AEM. So I thought I did a bad job on the engine ..lmaol...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...-mkivs-99.html
what is odd is that you said they are low impedance, are you sure you don't have a resistor pack those injectors should have fried the injector drivers pretty much right away. if they are and they didn't fry this could be part of why its running the injectors is probably not injecting the amount the ecu is telling it if there is an impedance mismatch.
. Oh shoot , I would have been crying if those more than $1k injectors got fried because of my ignorance and stupidity.Real question is how does it rev and drive, I would guess that if you rev it up or put any load on it that it will fall on its face and the afr's will go out of range very quickly, it may be worth a quick test since you have the wideband and can monitor it but I doubt it will work well even if you can drive it around your timing will be very advanced because of your low load readings and when you boost it, it will think you are in vac still and you will have timing numbers potentially 30+ range, so in short I would not boost like that cause of the timing. you may be able to limp it around though for regular driving.
If you put 440's on there or even 550's, you can reuse the GM IAT, but you need a JZ map sensor.
I have tried a 3 bar on mine it wont even start, probably needs more injector but its hard to get the scaling right without the oem map sensor. If you have a bunch of different size injectors maybe you could find something that works but its a big maybe.
your best bet is to drop in injectors and run another map sensor plug in parralel to your current one, its just splicing 3 wires but make sure you only plug in one map at a time.
On the cam's front I am not sure, stock cams over here but I always hear the 26x run fine at idle still, and the 272 you may just want to bump your idle up a little bit. I think the stock ecu will be fine for the most part it learns as it goes along and I have found it to run better all around than any other ecu combination, except for boost it tends to run really rich without a controller, not a big deal if you crank the boost up to get your ideal afr though.
If you put 440's on there or even 550's, you can reuse the GM IAT, but you need a JZ map sensor.
I have tried a 3 bar on mine it wont even start, probably needs more injector but its hard to get the scaling right without the oem map sensor. If you have a bunch of different size injectors maybe you could find something that works but its a big maybe.
your best bet is to drop in injectors and run another map sensor plug in parralel to your current one, its just splicing 3 wires but make sure you only plug in one map at a time.
On the cam's front I am not sure, stock cams over here but I always hear the 26x run fine at idle still, and the 272 you may just want to bump your idle up a little bit. I think the stock ecu will be fine for the most part it learns as it goes along and I have found it to run better all around than any other ecu combination, except for boost it tends to run really rich without a controller, not a big deal if you crank the boost up to get your ideal afr though.
Well , I don't have any 440 injectors anymore. Besides I would have to get the special Bosch Giant (Long) 440cc Injectors to fit on my current fuel rail and will clear my nitrous pipings and have the same EV1 pigtails as the Siemens 2433cc that I have so I don't have to do more work on that aspect. All I want to do is slap in the injectors , change ECU , unplug the AEM 5 bar map and plug the JZ map sensor .. then I am good to go . Probably less than 30 minutes of work. It's just a backup setup to be able to run the car while I am figuring out all the ins and outs of the proEFI once my AEM v2 is sold. It is currently my daily driver now trying to rack up on miles so I get more and more confident that I have a very healthy engine. Just did compression test yesterday after 1000 miles and all cylinders are basically all around 158-160psi and leakdown were around 3-5% in all cylinders. I think I am ready to get this car in high boost with nitrous eventually with the proEFI. But it will be a very long learning curve for me . Not even on the AEM v2 I was able to learn how to tune with nitrous. That's the reason I need to have a backup way of running the car.
Ok .. I guess that confirms my thought that I would have to use the 2JZ map sensor and can get away with the GM AIT sensor. Ok .. I will make sure the other AEM map sensor is not plugged in..
Got you on the 272s and see how they will run... thanks
Last edited by gerrb; 08-20-13 at 10:26 AM.
08-20-13, 10:25 AM
#1099
Yeap me too , a lot of well known supra builders where also wondering that the car fired up and stayed running . I have ran the car around my place for less than 10 minutes up to 50mph . I had to ran it cause I also thought that the BL auto tranny I had was shot so I tried it with the stock ECU but it turned out I had to modify some AEM settings for it to work smoothly. Yes on the AEM v2 I have to change breakpoints , setup and tune some maps to get the car to start , idle and run good with those big *** injectors. One of them is almost equivalent to 6 of those 440cc .And yes I have OEM coil packs.
Check my thread posts #1480 , 1481 and 1482 , you will see the vidoes there of the Aristo ECU connected and the car running. I tried it cause at the beginning I couldn't freaking get my car started with the AEM. So I thought I did a bad job on the engine ..lmaol...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...-mkivs-99.html
Yeap , they are the Siemens Deka 2433cc / 220lbs injectors which are 2.7 ohms. No I don't have a resistor pack anymore on the harness I did. I was planning to install my AEM Peak and Hold Injector Driver near the ecu plugs but after some research , I found out that the AEM v2 30-6100 did have saturated and peak/hold drivers so I didn't need the resistor pack or AEM Peak and Hold driver. The injectors are not yet fried cause I am still using them on the AEM now .. . Oh shoot , I would have been crying if those more than $1k injectors got fried because of my ignorance and stupidity.
I wouldn't say it ran perfectly but it never stalled even when I ran up to 50mph testing the BL auto tranny with the Aristo ECU. At that time , I wasn't really attentive with the AFR since my concern was whether my BL auto tranny was good.. since I was having problem with it on the AEM in the beginning. Was it in limp mode , you are probably right , since my attention was more on the tranny functionality at that time.
Well , I don't have any 440 injectors anymore. Besides I would have to get the special Bosch Giant (Long) 440cc Injectors to fit on my current fuel rail and will clear my nitrous pipings and have the same EV1 pigtails as the Siemens 2433cc that I have so I don't have to do more work on that aspect. All I want to do is slap in the injectors , change ECU , unplug the AEM 5 bar map and plug the JZ map sensor .. thenn I am good to go . Probably less than 30 minutes of work.
Ok .. I guess that confirms my thought that I would have to use the 2JZ map sensor and can get away with the GM AIT sensor. Ok .. I will make sure the other AEM map sensor is not plugged in..
Got you on the 272s and see how they will run... thanks
Check my thread posts #1480 , 1481 and 1482 , you will see the vidoes there of the Aristo ECU connected and the car running. I tried it cause at the beginning I couldn't freaking get my car started with the AEM. So I thought I did a bad job on the engine ..lmaol...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...-mkivs-99.html
Yeap , they are the Siemens Deka 2433cc / 220lbs injectors which are 2.7 ohms. No I don't have a resistor pack anymore on the harness I did. I was planning to install my AEM Peak and Hold Injector Driver near the ecu plugs but after some research , I found out that the AEM v2 30-6100 did have saturated and peak/hold drivers so I didn't need the resistor pack or AEM Peak and Hold driver. The injectors are not yet fried cause I am still using them on the AEM now ..
. Oh shoot , I would have been crying if those more than $1k injectors got fried because of my ignorance and stupidity.I wouldn't say it ran perfectly but it never stalled even when I ran up to 50mph testing the BL auto tranny with the Aristo ECU. At that time , I wasn't really attentive with the AFR since my concern was whether my BL auto tranny was good.. since I was having problem with it on the AEM in the beginning. Was it in limp mode , you are probably right , since my attention was more on the tranny functionality at that time.
Well , I don't have any 440 injectors anymore. Besides I would have to get the special Bosch Giant (Long) 440cc Injectors to fit on my current fuel rail and will clear my nitrous pipings and have the same EV1 pigtails as the Siemens 2433cc that I have so I don't have to do more work on that aspect. All I want to do is slap in the injectors , change ECU , unplug the AEM 5 bar map and plug the JZ map sensor .. thenn I am good to go . Probably less than 30 minutes of work.
Ok .. I guess that confirms my thought that I would have to use the 2JZ map sensor and can get away with the GM AIT sensor. Ok .. I will make sure the other AEM map sensor is not plugged in..
Got you on the 272s and see how they will run... thanks
From the vids you are right it is surprising it is running that well even, but it really doesn't sound very healthy there is some kind of hiccup it is possible not all of the injectors are getting fired reliably due to the resistance difference. you could be running rich in a few cylinders and getting no combustion on the others and the air fuel gauge just picks up on unburnt oxygen and that is an average and you wouldn't know whats really going on. the sound gives it away there is a misfire or something going on in there.
its not so much your injectors are at risk as the drivers on the ecu board itself. they would eventually short out if some of them haven't already, then it becomes a paperweight.
same can happen if you let the 5v and the ground wires touch on a map sensor connector, if they touch like if the pins are out of the socket or you short them, you can fry the 5v driver on the board and you loose all 5v operation which includes a handful of sensors.
Not sure about the long injectors, but you can also get adapter clips to go from ev1 to denso.
Also if you have seen the newer ev14 bosch injectors, they have a top hat adapter on them that changes the length of them and can also convert from 11mm to 14mm or just extends 11mm depending on your rail. I don't know where to get them but those top hats may be an easy way to extend normal injectors. there should also be a set from some car that are a bit longer just a matter of figuring it out.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-20-13 at 10:33 AM.
08-20-13, 11:34 AM
#1100
You probably are right ! Errol of TPS said same thing , it was strange to even get the car started and running with that AEM 5 bar map sensor and 2433cc injectors in there. The ECU probably just couldn't figure out things and just went on like safety / limp mode ... started the car and kept it running.
Once I have a set of 440cc long style EV1 injectors , I will plug them and see if I can still start the car with the AEM 5 bar map using the stock ECU before I plug in a 2jz map sensor . Will let you know my observations.
Once again thank you and this thread of yours for me is the best thread to read if one just needs a daily driver that can deliver some blows or punches.....a car that would run day in day out , regardless of the temperature or weather or altitude of the place you are in. Expenses won't be that much and yet one can have a 400rwhp reliable car. How many cars on the road with that power will you meet everyday ? Not much .. so you can still be king of the road most of the time without going through the problems of high powered car which are high in maintenance when used daily.
Honestly , I am afraid to try what I am about to try .. 440-550cc injectors with stock ECU on the red mamba. I might like it so much that I will stick with it ...
It is a daily warrior car anyway , so I will never have the problems associated with aftermarket ECUs. Then , when I want more power which is seldom on a day to day driving anyway , I will fire up those nitrous switches .
Once I have a set of 440cc long style EV1 injectors , I will plug them and see if I can still start the car with the AEM 5 bar map using the stock ECU before I plug in a 2jz map sensor . Will let you know my observations.
Once again thank you and this thread of yours for me is the best thread to read if one just needs a daily driver that can deliver some blows or punches.....a car that would run day in day out , regardless of the temperature or weather or altitude of the place you are in. Expenses won't be that much and yet one can have a 400rwhp reliable car. How many cars on the road with that power will you meet everyday ? Not much .. so you can still be king of the road most of the time without going through the problems of high powered car which are high in maintenance when used daily.
Honestly , I am afraid to try what I am about to try .. 440-550cc injectors with stock ECU on the red mamba. I might like it so much that I will stick with it ...
It is a daily warrior car anyway , so I will never have the problems associated with aftermarket ECUs. Then , when I want more power which is seldom on a day to day driving anyway , I will fire up those nitrous switches .
Last edited by gerrb; 08-20-13 at 11:42 AM.
08-20-13, 04:02 PM
#1101
yeah its amazing what that ecu will try and do on the fly to keep the car running. with the 3.5 bar and 750cc injectors I could get it started but I couldn't keep it running unless my foot was on the gas.
lol no way its gonna start with the 5 bar and the 550's even. or if it starts it will stall out right after, def let us know how it goes though.
have you heard of weatherpack connectors? one thing I did on mine because I was experimenting so much was I put the 4 wires for the distributor on a weatherpack connector, so swapping between that and the 7m cps takes just unplugging and plugging it in, with no extra connectors hanging out to short out =).
I also have a 2 pin weatherpack on my IAT so I can change that out or remove it on the fly, and also a 3 pin on my map sensor, so i can just change them out with whatever I want on the fly, like I had an AEM3.5 bar, a motorolla 2.5 bar, and a tt 2.3 bar all on their own 3 pin connectors.
sounds like alot of work but once you get one of those crimpers and use it a few times its easy and actually kind of fun to do, and then I hit the base of the pin with solder for extra insurance. after that its a simple unplug and replug job.
I have a feeling you will really like it, especially since you have a gte it will run better than ever. I used to hate driving through parking garages on the aem the decel fuel cut among may other things would just do whatever it randomly felt like and that one is especially horrible because you set it at a static psi in the software, but at elevations it just goes nuts because the ecu is referenced to absolute pressure. when I had my car sent over from virginia to colorado, it would start and you could move it a bit with a bunch of misfiring going on, it was running perfect before that. I did figure out how to make it work in the end, but when you daily drive something you notice all the problems.
none of those issues are present with the factory ecu, its built in the software to calculate the pressure difference on startup, and just know how things are supposed to be and it corrects. It almost brought tears to my eyes the first time I drove it I couldn't believe it actually worked after all the experimentation.
In fact last month I installed an safc and realized I had been driving for a month on a non working tps it was telling the ecu I was at 25% throttle the whole time, I didn't even have a check engine light until I jumpered the pins, apparently the ecu didn't think it was that big of a deal because it drove really well and boosted just like normal. fixing it though made the idle a little smoother lol..
apparently I put my spare tps on my intake which was no good but still amazing the ecu was able to just handle it.
nitrous will definitely give you that extra boost, but the JDM ecu has been known to work with injectors up to 1000cc with the right setup on it, I think 660 is also pretty common size that can be done with a simple afc and that gives more room for turbo power without wrecking how it will drive day to day.
Now I want to hear those 272's on the JDM ecu after you are done. in the other video they sound kinda nice
lol no way its gonna start with the 5 bar and the 550's even. or if it starts it will stall out right after, def let us know how it goes though.
have you heard of weatherpack connectors? one thing I did on mine because I was experimenting so much was I put the 4 wires for the distributor on a weatherpack connector, so swapping between that and the 7m cps takes just unplugging and plugging it in, with no extra connectors hanging out to short out =).
I also have a 2 pin weatherpack on my IAT so I can change that out or remove it on the fly, and also a 3 pin on my map sensor, so i can just change them out with whatever I want on the fly, like I had an AEM3.5 bar, a motorolla 2.5 bar, and a tt 2.3 bar all on their own 3 pin connectors.
sounds like alot of work but once you get one of those crimpers and use it a few times its easy and actually kind of fun to do, and then I hit the base of the pin with solder for extra insurance. after that its a simple unplug and replug job.
I have a feeling you will really like it, especially since you have a gte it will run better than ever. I used to hate driving through parking garages on the aem the decel fuel cut among may other things would just do whatever it randomly felt like and that one is especially horrible because you set it at a static psi in the software, but at elevations it just goes nuts because the ecu is referenced to absolute pressure. when I had my car sent over from virginia to colorado, it would start and you could move it a bit with a bunch of misfiring going on, it was running perfect before that. I did figure out how to make it work in the end, but when you daily drive something you notice all the problems.
none of those issues are present with the factory ecu, its built in the software to calculate the pressure difference on startup, and just know how things are supposed to be and it corrects. It almost brought tears to my eyes the first time I drove it I couldn't believe it actually worked after all the experimentation.
In fact last month I installed an safc and realized I had been driving for a month on a non working tps it was telling the ecu I was at 25% throttle the whole time, I didn't even have a check engine light until I jumpered the pins, apparently the ecu didn't think it was that big of a deal because it drove really well and boosted just like normal. fixing it though made the idle a little smoother lol..
apparently I put my spare tps on my intake which was no good but still amazing the ecu was able to just handle it.
nitrous will definitely give you that extra boost, but the JDM ecu has been known to work with injectors up to 1000cc with the right setup on it, I think 660 is also pretty common size that can be done with a simple afc and that gives more room for turbo power without wrecking how it will drive day to day.
Now I want to hear those 272's on the JDM ecu after you are done. in the other video they sound kinda nice
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-20-13 at 04:08 PM.
08-20-13, 06:05 PM
#1102
I know it would be cool having 272s with JDM ecu.
08-22-13, 02:04 PM
#1103
SPLICE
-52 to 57
-53 to 56
-54 to 55
But, we need to run 2 new wires #55 and 56 from the ECU to Igniter?
And run the rest of the old GE igniter wires to VVTi igniter wires?
It looks like we may need to run the wires straight from the ECU to
08-22-13, 04:51 PM
#1104
the only wires that are on the ecu plug for the ignition already are 57 and 58, the rest are blank stock.
you will need to get 5 spare ecu pins/wires to do that wiring for the ignitor, and also where its shown jumping pins 5-7, you will need 2 ecu pins/wires for that also there is only 1 wire there the other 2 pins are blank stock.
so you need to add pins and wires to 52-56, then connect the pairs as shown, and run 2 new wires to the coil.
there are 3 pairs for the 3 coils but we reuse the stock wire so we only need to add 2 new wires for the 2 other pairs.
then you transfer the old ignitors wires to the new ignitor plug as shown, and then you have to add the 4 pins and wires to the new ignitor plug that run to the coils and a ground. that's why its helpfull to get the ds62 plug with some wiring left on it, so you have extra pins to use they are not the same as the ecu pins but are the same as most of the larger pins all over the engine bay.
you will need to get 5 spare ecu pins/wires to do that wiring for the ignitor, and also where its shown jumping pins 5-7, you will need 2 ecu pins/wires for that also there is only 1 wire there the other 2 pins are blank stock.
so you need to add pins and wires to 52-56, then connect the pairs as shown, and run 2 new wires to the coil.
there are 3 pairs for the 3 coils but we reuse the stock wire so we only need to add 2 new wires for the 2 other pairs.
then you transfer the old ignitors wires to the new ignitor plug as shown, and then you have to add the 4 pins and wires to the new ignitor plug that run to the coils and a ground. that's why its helpfull to get the ds62 plug with some wiring left on it, so you have extra pins to use they are not the same as the ecu pins but are the same as most of the larger pins all over the engine bay.
08-22-13, 04:54 PM
#1105
Everyone with the TT ecu mod should disconnect the vacuum tank to the canister and do the bypass shown below. It makes my car get into boost so much faster it doesn't even feel like I am driving the same car, seems like 500rpm's quicker to me I know it sounds crazy someone else try it and let me know.
**Edit** I officially added it as a step to page 1 its like having a quick spool valve on the turbo except its on your intake and its there stock =)
**Edit** I officially added it as a step to page 1 its like having a quick spool valve on the turbo except its on your intake and its there stock =)
Found a quick way to bypass the Acis vsv and connect the actuator straight to the intake without having to remove the Y pipe and throttle body.
I am not sure if the aristo ecu is controlling it right on the pin its normally on, so for now I am going to do this as it feels like it works better. your results may vary.
on the back of the intake near the brake booster, you disconnect the 2 stock vacuum hoses which are shown hanging out on the left side of the picture, and then use a new piece of vacuum hose to connect the 2 metal lines that the stock hoses were connected to. this bypasses the vacuum canister and the vsv and connects the ACIS actuator directly to the intake manifold so you get long runners when in vacuum, and you get short runners in boost. about the only thing that doesn't work like factory this way is you get long runners in cruise and low throttle conditions instead of the factory short runner, but it doesn't seem to be that important the car actually feels faster this way.
I am not sure if the aristo ecu is controlling it right on the pin its normally on, so for now I am going to do this as it feels like it works better. your results may vary.
on the back of the intake near the brake booster, you disconnect the 2 stock vacuum hoses which are shown hanging out on the left side of the picture, and then use a new piece of vacuum hose to connect the 2 metal lines that the stock hoses were connected to. this bypasses the vacuum canister and the vsv and connects the ACIS actuator directly to the intake manifold so you get long runners when in vacuum, and you get short runners in boost. about the only thing that doesn't work like factory this way is you get long runners in cruise and low throttle conditions instead of the factory short runner, but it doesn't seem to be that important the car actually feels faster this way.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-22-13 at 05:11 PM.
08-22-13, 08:11 PM
#1106
the only wires that are on the ecu plug for the ignition already are 57 and 58, the rest are blank stock.
you will need to get 5 spare ecu pins/wires to do that wiring for the ignitor, and also where its shown jumping pins 5-7, you will need 2 ecu pins/wires for that also there is only 1 wire there the other 2 pins are blank stock.
so you need to add pins and wires to 52-56, then connect the pairs as shown, and run 2 new wires to the coil.
there are 3 pairs for the 3 coils but we reuse the stock wire so we only need to add 2 new wires for the 2 other pairs.
then you transfer the old ignitors wires to the new ignitor plug as shown, and then you have to add the 4 pins and wires to the new ignitor plug that run to the coils and a ground. that's why its helpfull to get the ds62 plug with some wiring left on it, so you have extra pins to use they are not the same as the ecu pins but are the same as most of the larger pins all over the engine bay.
you will need to get 5 spare ecu pins/wires to do that wiring for the ignitor, and also where its shown jumping pins 5-7, you will need 2 ecu pins/wires for that also there is only 1 wire there the other 2 pins are blank stock.
so you need to add pins and wires to 52-56, then connect the pairs as shown, and run 2 new wires to the coil.
there are 3 pairs for the 3 coils but we reuse the stock wire so we only need to add 2 new wires for the 2 other pairs.
then you transfer the old ignitors wires to the new ignitor plug as shown, and then you have to add the 4 pins and wires to the new ignitor plug that run to the coils and a ground. that's why its helpfull to get the ds62 plug with some wiring left on it, so you have extra pins to use they are not the same as the ecu pins but are the same as most of the larger pins all over the engine bay.
Thanks Ali, that cleared things up. I am going to tackle this sometime next month when it cools down. I have most of my parts gathered, I scored a 02 IS300 wire harness with igniter included so I don't have to worry about the connectors to the components. I am a little anxious cause currently the SC is running LEAN so I cant push it as hard. Cant wait, I'll let ya'll know how it turns out.
Everyone with the TT ecu mod should disconnect the vacuum tank to the canister and do the bypass shown below. It makes my car get into boost so much faster it doesn't even feel like I am driving the same car, seems like 500rpm's quicker to me I know it sounds crazy someone else try it and let me know.
**Edit** I officially added it as a step to page 1 its like having a quick spool valve on the turbo except its on your intake and its there stock =)
**Edit** I officially added it as a step to page 1 its like having a quick spool valve on the turbo except its on your intake and its there stock =)
08-23-13, 01:46 PM
#1108
ok got my idle up to 12.0 afr. now my car breaks up at around 3500 rpm for like 2-3 seconds and then hits boost. when it breaks up, my wideband goes to about 15 and comes back to 13. and this is at wot. my boost gauge is showing 0 bar when I get into boost.