who all has this running with the automatic right now? you guys getting lights on your cluster?

 

My timing is still OFF, I don't get it. Can the ECU advance timing?

When I was running the dizzy, I set it at 8*BTDC, checked it several times. When I did this mod, I am checking it with my other gun. It is off the timing scale, If I had to say where its at, it reads around 25*. That's with the distributor clocked all the way counter clockwise.

Should I adjust it or leave it? Adjusting this is no walk in the park. it was a PITA last time I had the distributor off

 

when you have the jumper in the diagnostic connector the ecu does not advance timing, as soon as you remove the jumper the ecu will advance the timing. if you are pulling airflow via the safc that will also increase the timing, but only when the jumper is not in place on the diagnostic connector.

you must let the car fully warm up, hot operating temperature, it needs to be there settled for a bit, then you put in the jumper, and then you set the timing to 8. if you cannot get it down to 8 with the jumper in and you have the right light, then you are a tooth or more advanced.

it is normal for it to jump up to 14-18 as soon as you remove the jumper, depending on the various sensors. 25 is a bit much for idle, and it could be due to you picking up some advance from safc adjustments.
If that is your timing with the jumper in somehow, then you are off a tooth on the distributor most likely.
you have to use a normal on/off timing light and read off the crank. you cannot use a dial back timing light on vvti coils or any wasted spark coils in general.

It is generally pretty easy to set the timing on this so there could be some other issue going on.

 

I had an issue with timing when I went NA-T, I removed the complete distributor and couldn't get the car running. After removing it, turning the crank and stabbing the dizzy a few times I got it set correctly. I had it set at 8*BTDC with the terminals jumped and had some room to advance and retard it if I wanted to.

After the VVT-i coils, TT ECU upgrade it hasn't been the same. So your saying my APEXi NEO is advancing timing?

I should reset all parameters on the NEO and check the timing again? Or should leave the NEO parameters and adjust my timing by pulling out the dizzy and turning the crank until I get it right?

I am using a digital timing light, it has 2cycle and 4 cycle options so its coil friendly. when I have it on 4 cycle it reads double, I read my RPMs at 1400-1600 but when I turned it to 2 cycle it was reading normal 700-800 rpms

 

if you are pulling out fuel in your idle cells it advances the timing, but that is only when the jumper is not in.

with the jumper in it needs to read 8-10, that is all you need to worry about for now. what is yours reading right now with the jumper in?

 

I resetted the Neo to all zeros, now Im measuring 6*.

When I hit high boost Im pinging pretty hard, I want to keep boosting but it doesn't sound safe so I would have to back off. I think the ECU/NEO is advancing way too much timing when Im pulling fuel out. So I bought a set of 500cc's hope this fixes it all

 

its hard to tell its pinging from just hearing it but if it goes from 6 to 26 that is quite a difference.
I can say that when the ecu detects pining or knock it should pull back the timing, but I have not ran 660's to tell you for sure it can do it fast enough. you could try turning the distributor back even more to help balance out the boost timing. are you on the stock headgasket maybe that is part of the issue with the added timing?

The 500's should help alot with the problem, I literally have 0 fueling issues ever with the 440's and the 500's are between that and 550's which people run all the time with a safc.

you could try pulling out even more timing but

 

It pings pretty aggressively where to a point I don't want to take it up there that hard.I am still running my stock HG. I am prolly going to wait for my 500s to arrive to tests them out first.

At the moment my car is smoking on acceleration, eliminating the smoke is my first priority. I don't want to get pulled over and get sent to a BAR referee or with my dumb luck I may run into one of those roadside inspection points and get nailed for mods. All that hard work and money would be for nothing.

I cant go any lower, 6* is where the distributor stops. It retarded all the way and it still pings

 

For me the entire process is vice versa. Easy as heck collecting everything thanks to Jwin. I have no clue how to install it haha

 

I guess with the extra timing from the injectors/neo with stock compression is causing some pinging. Running less injector should fix it. You can go lower on the distributor, you would need to pull it out and go back a tooth though. Are you pulling fuel across the whole range, then you should go lower than 6, or remove the jumper when it's warm idling and move it till it's in the 14 area, then put the jumper in and you will get a rough idea of where it should be if you want to keep the 660s, but if all you need is 500 I would just use those.

Ashtray, I didn't either before I just did it one day. Once you get good at removing pins you will feel better about it, the rest is all installation injectors coils require some elbow grease. Most else is wiring.

 

I do not want to mess with the distributor if I don't have to. I don't know about you but it was a pain for me to correct when I had it out.

I should be receiving the 500s next week. I am getting some smoke on acceleration no matter how much fuel I have pulled. Right not I have -8 all across on Low Throttle 1000-7000rpm and -32 on High Thr. I tried adding more fuel at high thr but it still pings and it starts to break up more when Im full throttle



Yeah, I had know idea how to remove the pins from the connector. When I added the new pins, I just shoved them in there, it was the wrong way to do it and some connectors I would get good contact, The most difficult part for me was removing the 2 bolts holding the EGR line. Those were hard to get to for me, everything else went pretty smooth considering I must've took apart and assembled everything about 3 times.

 

another option is to run a usdm ecu and also run the maf. it will probably cope with the 660's better, and if you get a hks vpc they have 660 and higher cc chips you can run and convert it to map at the same time.
Its usually easier to just run the injector amount you need, If you are on the stock headgaket you probably won't be making much more power than the 440's can support on pump gas. the 500-550 should work fine though.

 

i hope i dont have timing issues with mine since im using stock HG and 550s/safc2. I'm working on my ffim now along with my tt ecu mod, I've got the basic fabrication of the ffim down and working on throttle body now. Do I want a q45 tb or could I use one of the universal tb off eBay that are 80 or 90mm?

And then my next question would be what tps to use...can a q45 tps be wired to work or do I need to use the ge tps? The up side to the ge tps is I already have it but it has coolant lines as I understand which seems weird. I see a few q45 tps around for $35-55.

I don't even know what Iacv is so I'll read up on that next.

Lastly would 80 or 90 mm be best? Assuming the cheapo universal tb is an option. I like the slim profile of those universal eBay tbs and the polished appearance. I think to take advantage of the TT ecu mod its a good idea to do FFIM as well. I searched and posted on a couple other threads regarding FFIM but if theres some links with this stuff being discussed send me the link.

 

Hey guys!

Just giving an update, I have been daily driving my car for more than a year now with

60-1 bb garrett
440cc
aristo ecu
is300 coilpacks
camry igniter

and i have to say my car runs GREAT, next is some aftermarket tuning to fine tune everything but i have to say I have no complaints after more than a year of daily driving!

 

For you guys on the stock headgasket you may want to try and use 440's because you won't need a piggyback. you shuld be able to run over a bar of boost on that and make close to 400 which is a good limit on pump gas and stock compression. 550'cc you may think is more headroom but if you don't need that extra injectors its just advancing your timing some and putting an extra device in the loop. 660cc there is really no need for on the stock headgasket and pump gas, you will not be using that much injector at that compression unless its e-85 or a crazy tune on it.

it should work with the 550's lots of people run that combo but they usually have lower compression. The jdm timing may be a little more aggressive, but I am not even sure if that is a myth or not. one could always run the usdm ecu with something like a vpc or map ecu and get larger injectors sizes to work if necessary.

It depends on which throttle flange is welded on there or if you are making your own then its choice really.
the q45 throttle body is physically larger on the outside, but smaller diameter than a mustang 5.0 throttle body.
RMR sells the flanges for both types and alot use the 5.0 one these days its more compact on the outside and has a larger throttle blade on the inside. The tps though will not work right with the toyota ecu, but there is a way to get the q45 one to work with the toyota ecu and the wiring is in a thread here somewhere and I think gerb talked about it a few pages back.
you can also get an adapter for both throttle bodies online to use a toyota tps on them , so you could still go the 5.0 route if you wanted.
The q45 one does have a nice cold idle up valve on the side of it (it someone hasn't taken it off already), which is handy if you are not installing a IACV (Idle air control valve). It will help with cold starts once you set it right. If you don't install an idle valve (stock one is on stock throttle body which is long gone), you will have to raise your idle up some and keep your foot on the gas for cold starts especially in the winter.

I wouldn't use the ebay universal, and not just because its an ebay part but from what I read online they tend to leak boost out the throttle shaft more than the oem types. RMR makes a better one but its very expensive.