2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#1261
i believe your idle issue is due to a bad MAP sensor. i had a similar problem when i had a gm map sensor. I used the front o2 sensor and have had no problems or cels. i saw your using 550's. you should have a fuel controller to take out a little fuel with the aristo ecu but i doubt that would cause you to run so super rich at idle.
-try a new MAP
-to solve code 21 try just running new wires straight from the ECU to the sensor that way you know 100% its right
-get a fuel controller (AEM FIC, SAFC, etc.)
-try a new MAP
-to solve code 21 try just running new wires straight from the ECU to the sensor that way you know 100% its right
-get a fuel controller (AEM FIC, SAFC, etc.)
I just ordered another oem MAP sensor and should be able to test it on the car this weekend. I'll also run a new wire from the ecu's OX pin to the O2 sensor. I will report back.
~Stan
#1262
Yes, it should be as simple as that and you do not even need an IAT, the maf takes care of that it has a built in IAT, so just add the map sensor, injectors, and other non ecu stuff. ignition system is already wired up properly on a vvti 2jzge. hopefully the connectors are the same I haven't had them to verify but I think they are. if they are it should be that easy to get it running.
2. To help save time in step one... Does a diagram of sensor locations on the engine exist? I need to identify everything before I can even think of starting. A bunch are easily identifiable- injectors, 3 coils, etc- but there are just a **** ton more than I expected- and I don't have/own a 2J vehicle. :laugh:
3. Eliminating sensors- What can be removed without throwing CEL?
I know things like EGR and VSV delete can be done...
What else is non-essential to the stock ECU?
I'm not concerned with sensors that only communicate data for gauges.
4. also, what's the rage on output on the MAF? I'd like to know if there is a cheaper alternative that will put out the same readings on both ends. I'm doing a custom harness anyway, so that's the easy part.
Last edited by jbell; 11-26-13 at 01:31 PM.
#1263
1.I havent looked up vvti GE pinouts yet so I would just do a search for some.
for the aristo vvti use this one
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring
2 you don;t have to identify everything on the engine harness at all, you will be reusing your GE harness and only adding a map sensor to it, everything else stays put because you aren't changing the motor, just the ecu. anything that is there on a GTE vvti that is not on your harness already will be related to twin turbo wiring and vsv's which with a single turbo people remove anyways. If the connectors on both ecu's are the same, the pins you need will already be in the right spots. Toyota always does that, the only reason why the mod on page 1 takes so long is that we didn't have coilpacks stock, but vvti GE got upgraded to same coils a vvti gte uses so its plug and play.
3. nothing can be eliminated without throwing a cel on a odb2 vvti. you will get a cel just by using the aristo ecu cause its not odb2. If you just mean things you can remove without going into limp mode, well that would be like all the emissions stuff. there is not alot of extra stuff other than emissions on a 2jz you would want to get rid of, but you could do something to delete the drive by wire throttle body and revert back to simple wire style, hear it can let more air in and increased throttle response. I do not know the details of doing this but it would be the same for any vvti check the IS300 boards and gs300 vvti boards.
The maf you can use your stock maf. the vvti uses a newer hotwire maf that is just the middle part of the old maf and it plugs into the airbox. you can also get or make a pipe that it can plug into like a 3" pipe to suit your turbo motor. the maf itself is the same maf, just the piping its in is different from what I understand. I have heard you can run it with the ge vvti maf for sure so there is a way. The maf is a standard 0-5v, you may even be able to use an older gte maf that is all built in but I have never tried it. If you can get the vvti GTe intake pipe and put your maf into it that would probably work just as well as buying the whole vvti GTE maf setup, but I would probably just fab up a pipe to stick it into and seal it.
for the aristo vvti use this one
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring
2 you don;t have to identify everything on the engine harness at all, you will be reusing your GE harness and only adding a map sensor to it, everything else stays put because you aren't changing the motor, just the ecu. anything that is there on a GTE vvti that is not on your harness already will be related to twin turbo wiring and vsv's which with a single turbo people remove anyways. If the connectors on both ecu's are the same, the pins you need will already be in the right spots. Toyota always does that, the only reason why the mod on page 1 takes so long is that we didn't have coilpacks stock, but vvti GE got upgraded to same coils a vvti gte uses so its plug and play.
3. nothing can be eliminated without throwing a cel on a odb2 vvti. you will get a cel just by using the aristo ecu cause its not odb2. If you just mean things you can remove without going into limp mode, well that would be like all the emissions stuff. there is not alot of extra stuff other than emissions on a 2jz you would want to get rid of, but you could do something to delete the drive by wire throttle body and revert back to simple wire style, hear it can let more air in and increased throttle response. I do not know the details of doing this but it would be the same for any vvti check the IS300 boards and gs300 vvti boards.
The maf you can use your stock maf. the vvti uses a newer hotwire maf that is just the middle part of the old maf and it plugs into the airbox. you can also get or make a pipe that it can plug into like a 3" pipe to suit your turbo motor. the maf itself is the same maf, just the piping its in is different from what I understand. I have heard you can run it with the ge vvti maf for sure so there is a way. The maf is a standard 0-5v, you may even be able to use an older gte maf that is all built in but I have never tried it. If you can get the vvti GTe intake pipe and put your maf into it that would probably work just as well as buying the whole vvti GTE maf setup, but I would probably just fab up a pipe to stick it into and seal it.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 11-26-13 at 01:52 PM.
#1264
1.I havent looked up vvti GE pinouts yet so I would just do a search for some.
for the aristo vvti use this one
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring
2 you don;t have to identify everything on the engine harness at all, you will be reusing your GE harness and only adding a map sensor to it, everything else stays put because you aren't changing the motor, just the ecu. anything that is there on a GTE vvti that is not on your harness already will be related to twin turbo wiring and vsv's which with a single turbo people remove anyways. If the connectors on both ecu's are the same, the pins you need will already be in the right spots. Toyota always does that, the only reason why the mod on page 1 takes so long is that we didn't have coilpacks stock, but vvti GE got upgraded to same coils a vvti gte uses so its plug and play.
3. nothing can be eliminated without throwing a cel on a odb2 vvti. you will get a cel just by using the aristo ecu cause its not odb2. If you just mean things you can remove without going into limp mode, well that would be like all the emissions stuff. there is not alot of extra stuff other than emissions on a 2jz you would want to get rid of, but you could do something to delete the drive by wire throttle body and revert back to simple wire style, hear it can let more air in and increased throttle response. I do not know the details of doing this but it would be the same for any vvti check the IS300 boards and gs300 vvti boards.
The maf you can use your stock maf. the vvti uses a newer hotwire maf that is just the middle part of the old maf and it plugs into the airbox. you can also get or make a pipe that it can plug into like a 3" pipe to suit your turbo motor. the maf itself is the same maf, just the piping its in is different from what I understand. I have heard you can run it with the ge vvti maf for sure so there is a way. The maf is a standard 0-5v, you may even be able to use an older gte maf that is all built in but I have never tried it. If you can get the vvti GTe intake pipe and put your maf into it that would probably work just as well as buying the whole vvti GTE maf setup, but I would probably just fab up a pipe to stick it into and seal it.
for the aristo vvti use this one
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring
2 you don;t have to identify everything on the engine harness at all, you will be reusing your GE harness and only adding a map sensor to it, everything else stays put because you aren't changing the motor, just the ecu. anything that is there on a GTE vvti that is not on your harness already will be related to twin turbo wiring and vsv's which with a single turbo people remove anyways. If the connectors on both ecu's are the same, the pins you need will already be in the right spots. Toyota always does that, the only reason why the mod on page 1 takes so long is that we didn't have coilpacks stock, but vvti GE got upgraded to same coils a vvti gte uses so its plug and play.
3. nothing can be eliminated without throwing a cel on a odb2 vvti. you will get a cel just by using the aristo ecu cause its not odb2. If you just mean things you can remove without going into limp mode, well that would be like all the emissions stuff. there is not alot of extra stuff other than emissions on a 2jz you would want to get rid of, but you could do something to delete the drive by wire throttle body and revert back to simple wire style, hear it can let more air in and increased throttle response. I do not know the details of doing this but it would be the same for any vvti check the IS300 boards and gs300 vvti boards.
The maf you can use your stock maf. the vvti uses a newer hotwire maf that is just the middle part of the old maf and it plugs into the airbox. you can also get or make a pipe that it can plug into like a 3" pipe to suit your turbo motor. the maf itself is the same maf, just the piping its in is different from what I understand. I have heard you can run it with the ge vvti maf for sure so there is a way. The maf is a standard 0-5v, you may even be able to use an older gte maf that is all built in but I have never tried it. If you can get the vvti GTe intake pipe and put your maf into it that would probably work just as well as buying the whole vvti GTE maf setup, but I would probably just fab up a pipe to stick it into and seal it.
If everything is plugged in right, there should be no fault code?
I know obd doesnt work, but the cel should function properly, right?
#1266
#1269
if your odb2 doesn't work doesn't the light come on? honestly I don't know you will have to experiment some, it won't work 100% right most likely.
odb1 aristo = 1 o2 sensor, but the vvti may have more, I imagine most of your sensors are in the same spots already.
I looked in that diagram of yours, it does show a pin 5 on the maf as B30 EVG, but its colored L-R which is the same as the 5V wire which seems a little odd. all the diagrams I have seen show that as going to b28, unless the 96 is special. I think someone with a 96 is going to have to take a picture of the wire colors on their maf connector so we can figure it out, and also see if that same color pin is in 28 or 30 at the ecu. I just don't see why it would be different every toyota maf is practically wired the same way. I suspect it is a ground that goes to b28 but lets get to the bottom of it.
Yours is a 98 though and already has a maf sensor wired, I would not switch the wiring around based on that diagram cause I have seen 3 others that show it on B28, this is the only one that says 30 EVG and I don't even know what an EVG is or would be for. Yours doesn't have the same ecu plug as a 96, so that diagram won't work for you.
odb1 aristo = 1 o2 sensor, but the vvti may have more, I imagine most of your sensors are in the same spots already.
I looked in that diagram of yours, it does show a pin 5 on the maf as B30 EVG, but its colored L-R which is the same as the 5V wire which seems a little odd. all the diagrams I have seen show that as going to b28, unless the 96 is special. I think someone with a 96 is going to have to take a picture of the wire colors on their maf connector so we can figure it out, and also see if that same color pin is in 28 or 30 at the ecu. I just don't see why it would be different every toyota maf is practically wired the same way. I suspect it is a ground that goes to b28 but lets get to the bottom of it.
Yours is a 98 though and already has a maf sensor wired, I would not switch the wiring around based on that diagram cause I have seen 3 others that show it on B28, this is the only one that says 30 EVG and I don't even know what an EVG is or would be for. Yours doesn't have the same ecu plug as a 96, so that diagram won't work for you.
#1270
i have a 96 sc300, so thats why i asked my buddy to get me a diagram for my car, i'll have to take a look at my maf wiring when i get home and check it out who knows maybe the 96 is a little different it was the first year for obd2 i'll let you know thanks
#1271
whoops sorry about that one I confused your setup with jbell's in that last post.
so you do have the 96. I looked it up some more and from what I can tell EVG is just a fancy term for ground for the maf which is normally chassis ground on maf's that use 12V and normall pin B28 but for 96 who knows it could be 30. the other ground used by the maf is a sensor ground for the IAT and the IAT and other sensors use 5V and require their own ground which is called sensor ground on pin B65.
Just check what color that pin is on your maf connector for pin 5 and see if that same color wire is in B28 or B30 and you will know which diagram to use and let us know and we can figure out how to fix it. It really should be the same spot on all the ecu's though as the 97 diagram I had showed b28 so a little confused.
also if pin 5 is really giving that much trouble one could just remove that pin form the connector add a new wire and ground it to the chassis.
you are the one with the 96 so you will have to help us out with the see what is actually where part. I know where it should be generally and it should be on whatever pin is your chassis ground for the ecu.
so you do have the 96. I looked it up some more and from what I can tell EVG is just a fancy term for ground for the maf which is normally chassis ground on maf's that use 12V and normall pin B28 but for 96 who knows it could be 30. the other ground used by the maf is a sensor ground for the IAT and the IAT and other sensors use 5V and require their own ground which is called sensor ground on pin B65.
Just check what color that pin is on your maf connector for pin 5 and see if that same color wire is in B28 or B30 and you will know which diagram to use and let us know and we can figure out how to fix it. It really should be the same spot on all the ecu's though as the 97 diagram I had showed b28 so a little confused.
also if pin 5 is really giving that much trouble one could just remove that pin form the connector add a new wire and ground it to the chassis.
you are the one with the 96 so you will have to help us out with the see what is actually where part. I know where it should be generally and it should be on whatever pin is your chassis ground for the ecu.
#1272
So you have working odb, just not something US scanners communicate with.
You shouldn't toss any lights because of that.
I'm putting this all into a race wired shell anyways, so my case is special.
#1273
obd2 works, but it's not the same standard that we use. technically is JOBD.
So you have working odb, just not something US scanners communicate with.
You shouldn't toss any lights because of that.
I'm putting this all into a race wired shell anyways, so my case is special.
So you have working odb, just not something US scanners communicate with.
You shouldn't toss any lights because of that.
I'm putting this all into a race wired shell anyways, so my case is special.
#1274
#1275
I am seriously looking into this now, as my tuner is having serious trouble with dealing with the AEM FI/C I bought for my turbo obdII auto sc300. Basically I am going to give him one last chance on Monday to get it working, and then I am ditching the FI/C. What I want to do is get a part list going so that I can show him EXACTLY what he needs to get my 1997 auto sc300 running properly. My car has been at his shop for 3 weeks while he fiddled with the FI/C to no avail and I am out of patience. I want to drive my finally turbo'd car.
I know I need:
USDM TT auto obdII ecu- I have been searching for weeks and I only found 1 at $450!!
TT MAF sensor
3 is300 coils
TT MAP sensor
550cc top feed high impedence injectors
DS62 ignitor
NOW, my questions is; are there certain versions of the sensors that I need? For example; is there a difference in USDM tt MAF and a Aristo and JDM MAF?
Same question for the MAP sensor.
Is there a specific injector that works best?
I am sorry if these questions have already been answered, but after the first 4 pages, it seems like there wasnt enough relevant info for me to continue haha.
I know I need:
USDM TT auto obdII ecu- I have been searching for weeks and I only found 1 at $450!!
TT MAF sensor
3 is300 coils
TT MAP sensor
550cc top feed high impedence injectors
DS62 ignitor
NOW, my questions is; are there certain versions of the sensors that I need? For example; is there a difference in USDM tt MAF and a Aristo and JDM MAF?
Same question for the MAP sensor.
Is there a specific injector that works best?
I am sorry if these questions have already been answered, but after the first 4 pages, it seems like there wasnt enough relevant info for me to continue haha.