2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
02-04-14, 01:32 PM
#1381
Lexus Test Driver
Thank you, thank you
According to my mechanic, we have checked the map that's fine and we are running all the o2 sensors. two in the manifold and one after the cat. no vacuum leaks at all i smoke tested the whole system
pcv is hooked up the other valve cover is blocked for now
to prevent all vacume leaks
and it is running below 10.0 it makes the gauge out and i also checked the pinning for the vsv for fuel pressure and it works and is going to the correct pin on the ecu
it only runs rich in open loop so it has nothing to do with o2 feedback
According to my mechanic, we have checked the map that's fine and we are running all the o2 sensors. two in the manifold and one after the cat. no vacuum leaks at all i smoke tested the whole system
pcv is hooked up the other valve cover is blocked for now
to prevent all vacume leaks
and it is running below 10.0 it makes the gauge out and i also checked the pinning for the vsv for fuel pressure and it works and is going to the correct pin on the ecu
it only runs rich in open loop so it has nothing to do with o2 feedback
02-04-14, 02:02 PM
#1382
Thank you, thank you
According to my mechanic, we have checked the map that's fine and we are running all the o2 sensors. two in the manifold and one after the cat. no vacuum leaks at all i smoke tested the whole system
pcv is hooked up the other valve cover is blocked for now
to prevent all vacume leaks
and it is running below 10.0 it makes the gauge out and i also checked the pinning for the vsv for fuel pressure and it works and is going to the correct pin on the ecu
it only runs rich in open loop so it has nothing to do with o2 feedback
According to my mechanic, we have checked the map that's fine and we are running all the o2 sensors. two in the manifold and one after the cat. no vacuum leaks at all i smoke tested the whole system
pcv is hooked up the other valve cover is blocked for now
to prevent all vacume leaks
and it is running below 10.0 it makes the gauge out and i also checked the pinning for the vsv for fuel pressure and it works and is going to the correct pin on the ecu
it only runs rich in open loop so it has nothing to do with o2 feedback
did you switch plugs yet maybe you are just having ignition issues.
I am assuming you went with 550's of some type or different size?
I want to say the gte ecu does reference the o2 even in boost it knows the o2 should be reading rich but the degree I dont think it fine adjusts you are right.
Never block the passenger side valve cover. leave that side open and disconnect and cap the line going to the pcv from the intake on the drivers side. I wouldn't even boost with the passenger side blocked that means all pressure past the rings has no place to escape whatsoever from the crank case = bad things for your seals.
Can't believe its still not running correctly. you can also try disconnecting your extra crank sensor in case that has some sort of effect on the shared grounds but I doubt it. anything else that seems out of place. you did verify the timing?
It is also possible you are getting enough knock that the ecu is flooding with more fuel in boost.
maybe try reducing the timing to 8 degrees, reset the ecu, and see if its any better.
It also tends to do wierd fueling if there is a bad tps, but I dont think you would have passed emission with a bad tps you would have had high HC.
did you just barely pass on HC or was it by a large margin. if you have the readout I wouldn't mind seeing it I can tell a few things from those.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-04-14 at 02:06 PM.
02-07-14, 10:14 AM
#1383
Pole Position
Join Date: May 2012
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Ali, have you had your car on the track since installing your tt ecu? Just curious as to what times people are running while having a reliable DD ecu. Dyno numbers are nice, but track times and traps speeds are where it's at. 
02-07-14, 12:06 PM
#1384
Nope, haven't had it at a track or dyno yet. both are planned for when it gets warmer, I don't even like to start it up when its this cold outside. It does scoot around just as good on the rear end dyno as it did with the aem, but with much less hassle. I do miss being able to control the aem outputs for extra fans, acis, and other stuff, but you can always use a regular relay for most of those and acis works just connected straight to the intake so not a huge loss.
this spring I do plan to do a dyno and I am going to do the 1/4 mile hopefully along with a 6spd TT Supra that is BPU for comparison which is on the stock US gte ecu still.
this spring I do plan to do a dyno and I am going to do the 1/4 mile hopefully along with a 6spd TT Supra that is BPU for comparison which is on the stock US gte ecu still.
02-07-14, 12:24 PM
#1385
Lexus Test Driver
Here is Illinois we don't get reading from emissions. it's just an obd2 scan for the monitors to be ready. here is what we get
my mechanic can pull timing and see if that helps. I will look into it more this week. He says he blocked the valve cover because it could have been a vacume leak through the pvc when he was working through the idle. i am just going to open vent it. As always, thanks for all the help. This project is unfortunately still a confusing work in progress.
my mechanic can pull timing and see if that helps. I will look into it more this week. He says he blocked the valve cover because it could have been a vacume leak through the pvc when he was working through the idle. i am just going to open vent it. As always, thanks for all the help. This project is unfortunately still a confusing work in progress.
02-07-14, 12:25 PM
#1386
Lexus Test Driver
did you get your car running yet? which direction did you go?
02-07-14, 02:59 PM
#1387
nice, no codes at all is pretty impressive. you maybe could have a tps issue then if they didn't smog it you wouldn't actually know how badly you are polluting or aren't polluting. if you have a scanner you can read what the sensor is saying or measure voltage off the signal wire, but a crude test is if you move tps counter clockwise from the most clockwise position while the car is idling it should want to stall out as soon as you touch it. when you turn it clockwise it wont want to stall out. if turning all the way in both directions or even unplugging it doesnt change it then you may have a tps or wiring issue. if it tries to stall for a second then its working right.
you did run 5v to the map sensor and not 12v right? you can use the blue/red wire from the tps as the 5v power wire or get from ecu.
your maf sensor should have been wired right already but there was that ground wire difference between 96 and 97 harnesses so maybe you need to move the ground wire for your maf to the right spot.
I cant remember maybe one year was pin 28 and one year was pin 3x something..
you did run 5v to the map sensor and not 12v right? you can use the blue/red wire from the tps as the 5v power wire or get from ecu.
your maf sensor should have been wired right already but there was that ground wire difference between 96 and 97 harnesses so maybe you need to move the ground wire for your maf to the right spot.
I cant remember maybe one year was pin 28 and one year was pin 3x something..
02-07-14, 08:36 PM
#1388
Pole Position
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No, my car is still at the shop. The shop is doing the tt ecu conversion for me. It's been at the shop since mid-November. They haven't started it up yet because they haven't finished the wiring yet. Having a shop do this conversion is a pain because they haven't done this conversion before, and they don't really have a reference or instructions to go off of. In fact, basically no one knows this conversion works. Back when I was searching for my TT ecu, I found one at the Suprastore.com and the guy I talked to on the phone was adamant that this conversion would not work, and was even outright arguing with me about it. ANYWAY, right now they are waiting for 6 extra pins to arrive for the ECU, and a reducer for the larger tt MAF to fit in the intake. Hopefully they have those things on overnight shipping. I need this thing done like.. yesterday. 
Last edited by BuffNStuff; 02-07-14 at 08:41 PM.
02-07-14, 09:00 PM
#1389
Lexus Test Driver
No, my car is still at the shop. The shop is doing the tt ecu conversion for me. It's been at the shop since mid-November. They haven't started it up yet because they haven't finished the wiring yet. Having a shop do this conversion is a pain because they haven't done this conversion before, and they don't really have a reference or instructions to go off of. In fact, basically no one knows this conversion works. Back when I was searching for my TT ecu, I found one at the Suprastore.com and the guy I talked to on the phone was adamant that this conversion would not work, and was even outright arguing with me about it. ANYWAY, right now they are waiting for 6 extra pins to arrive for the ECU, and a reducer for the larger tt MAF to fit in the intake. Hopefully they have those things on overnight shipping. I need this thing done like.. yesterday.
02-09-14, 12:22 PM
#1390
so it drives around fine if you stay out of boost, and then it breaks up from being rich as soon as you wot?
the 1100 rpm is concerning because if the tps and idle are set right, then it should idle down to 700 rpm's when warmed up. If its not doing that then its not doing all the learning it needs to, and I do think the gte ecu does adjust in boost from the o2, it just knows to adjust to a rich value so everyone assumes it doesn't do any adjusting but I personally don't buy it. If you are getting 1100 when warm you either have a faulty coolant temp sensor, faulty tps, or your throttle plate screw isn't set properly.
adjust the throttle plate screw to lower the idle down some, and reset the ecu. if engine is warm still it will be around 1200rpm's when it starts up, and then after a few minutes it should learn and idle down to 700-800 rpm's. If it cannot idle down far enough that means the throttle is cracked open too much, and this could be confusing the ecu. close the throttle plate some more, reset the ecu and try again until you get the full range of good startup and normal 700-800rpm idle. If you are over 1000rpm's the ecu thinks you are on the gas because IDL is not engaged on the tps so it thinks you are not idling but you really are which can make it act weird also.
what plugs are you running and what gap. also make sure the coils and leads all are in the right places.
you should be around a .032 gap but you can even run a .043 gap at 10 psi. I like the bkr6eix or bkr7eix
the 1100 rpm is concerning because if the tps and idle are set right, then it should idle down to 700 rpm's when warmed up. If its not doing that then its not doing all the learning it needs to, and I do think the gte ecu does adjust in boost from the o2, it just knows to adjust to a rich value so everyone assumes it doesn't do any adjusting but I personally don't buy it. If you are getting 1100 when warm you either have a faulty coolant temp sensor, faulty tps, or your throttle plate screw isn't set properly.
adjust the throttle plate screw to lower the idle down some, and reset the ecu. if engine is warm still it will be around 1200rpm's when it starts up, and then after a few minutes it should learn and idle down to 700-800 rpm's. If it cannot idle down far enough that means the throttle is cracked open too much, and this could be confusing the ecu. close the throttle plate some more, reset the ecu and try again until you get the full range of good startup and normal 700-800rpm idle. If you are over 1000rpm's the ecu thinks you are on the gas because IDL is not engaged on the tps so it thinks you are not idling but you really are which can make it act weird also.
what plugs are you running and what gap. also make sure the coils and leads all are in the right places.
you should be around a .032 gap but you can even run a .043 gap at 10 psi. I like the bkr6eix or bkr7eix
02-10-14, 08:31 AM
#1391
Some of you may know I been having problems boosting at around 5-8psi. I was running 660cc injectors, I was told that was too large for the TT ecu so I got some 500s. The car runs the same but less smoke coming out of the tailpipe, I still get that stutter at 5-8psi. I installed a generic manual boost controller that I ordered off Ebay to see if I can bump up that boost.
My CEL isn't ON but I did pull a code 34, its pending. This came up as abnormal Turbo pressure. Reading other posts on other forums people are saying its either a boost leak, fuel cut or map sensor. I changed out the MAP sensor, the problem is still there. I had a HUGE boost leak, fixed that and noticed it immediately but that surge is still there.
I am thinking that my spring in my wastegate is too small, may be its a 5lbs spring? I don't know what size spring it is, I bought that whole kit from a forum member and he doesn't know. Can this cause my surging problem at 5-8psi when I have it at WOT?
I do have to mention again that it does pull hard after I start it after 2-3mins, not fully warmed up. I could do 2-3 pulls without it stuttering when its in open loop. When its fully warmed up(closed loop) the problem occurs.
My CEL isn't ON but I did pull a code 34, its pending. This came up as abnormal Turbo pressure. Reading other posts on other forums people are saying its either a boost leak, fuel cut or map sensor. I changed out the MAP sensor, the problem is still there. I had a HUGE boost leak, fixed that and noticed it immediately but that surge is still there.
I am thinking that my spring in my wastegate is too small, may be its a 5lbs spring? I don't know what size spring it is, I bought that whole kit from a forum member and he doesn't know. Can this cause my surging problem at 5-8psi when I have it at WOT?
I do have to mention again that it does pull hard after I start it after 2-3mins, not fully warmed up. I could do 2-3 pulls without it stuttering when its in open loop. When its fully warmed up(closed loop) the problem occurs.
02-10-14, 09:46 AM
#1392
Some of you may know I been having problems boosting at around 5-8psi. I was running 660cc injectors, I was told that was too large for the TT ecu so I got some 500s. The car runs the same but less smoke coming out of the tailpipe, I still get that stutter at 5-8psi. I installed a generic manual boost controller that I ordered off Ebay to see if I can bump up that boost.
My CEL isn't ON but I did pull a code 34, its pending. This came up as abnormal Turbo pressure. Reading other posts on other forums people are saying its either a boost leak, fuel cut or map sensor. I changed out the MAP sensor, the problem is still there. I had a HUGE boost leak, fixed that and noticed it immediately but that surge is still there.
I am thinking that my spring in my wastegate is too small, may be its a 5lbs spring? I don't know what size spring it is, I bought that whole kit from a forum member and he doesn't know. Can this cause my surging problem at 5-8psi when I have it at WOT?
I do have to mention again that it does pull hard after I start it after 2-3mins, not fully warmed up. I could do 2-3 pulls without it stuttering when its in open loop. When its fully warmed up(closed loop) the problem occurs.
My CEL isn't ON but I did pull a code 34, its pending. This came up as abnormal Turbo pressure. Reading other posts on other forums people are saying its either a boost leak, fuel cut or map sensor. I changed out the MAP sensor, the problem is still there. I had a HUGE boost leak, fixed that and noticed it immediately but that surge is still there.
I am thinking that my spring in my wastegate is too small, may be its a 5lbs spring? I don't know what size spring it is, I bought that whole kit from a forum member and he doesn't know. Can this cause my surging problem at 5-8psi when I have it at WOT?
I do have to mention again that it does pull hard after I start it after 2-3mins, not fully warmed up. I could do 2-3 pulls without it stuttering when its in open loop. When its fully warmed up(closed loop) the problem occurs.
It's not your wastegate spring, What is your boost gauge showing when WOT??? Generally the abnormal turbo pressure is a code that will kick the CEL on right around the moment your overboosting.
It's not cause you need a boost controller either. So you say theres a stumble 5-8 psi and then what?? it surges hard and boosts to what psi???
02-10-14, 10:03 AM
#1393
It's not your wastegate spring, What is your boost gauge showing when WOT??? Generally the abnormal turbo pressure is a code that will kick the CEL on right around the moment your overboosting.
It's not cause you need a boost controller either. So you say theres a stumble 5-8 psi and then what?? it surges hard and boosts to what psi???
It's not cause you need a boost controller either. So you say theres a stumble 5-8 psi and then what?? it surges hard and boosts to what psi???
02-10-14, 10:30 AM
#1395
Actually you don't have to switch the pins at the tps when using the stock throttle body the n/a tps is wired to the right spots on the ecu connector already, only have to rewire on the n/a harness if you use a gte throttle body setup.
code 34 I am not sure what that even is map sensor is a code 31 normally on aristo ecu and GE harness codes are a little different.
maybe the 500's are still running rich at 5-8 psi. what size is your turbo again?
I know I run pretty rich in transition into boost with the 440's even, but it still pulls smoothly.
hows your boost controller connected, that could have something to do with it if its plumbed wrong.
could also be if your Acis is hooked up wrong, the butterfly in the intake, you should disconnect it or bypass it like I showed on the first page or else the output on the gte ecu is for the turbo wastegate and will tell the canister to try and open the butterfly somewhere in the middle of boost, and could be what you are feeling.
code 34 I am not sure what that even is map sensor is a code 31 normally on aristo ecu and GE harness codes are a little different.
maybe the 500's are still running rich at 5-8 psi. what size is your turbo again?
I know I run pretty rich in transition into boost with the 440's even, but it still pulls smoothly.
hows your boost controller connected, that could have something to do with it if its plumbed wrong.
could also be if your Acis is hooked up wrong, the butterfly in the intake, you should disconnect it or bypass it like I showed on the first page or else the output on the gte ecu is for the turbo wastegate and will tell the canister to try and open the butterfly somewhere in the middle of boost, and could be what you are feeling.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-10-14 at 10:52 AM.