ashtray

iTrader: (12)

@buffNstuff

and youre OBDII if I'm not mistaken Let us know how this all goes and exactly what parts you used : ) Best of luck sir!

BuffNStuff

Yes I am OBDII. Once I am sure everything works, I will post what parts I have. That way people don't read this and buy parts that might not work for them.

myLEXsc400

dude, respect! that's awesome to hear. I'm still having nothing but problems with my car, and now my oil pan is leaking from the rtv seal.

BuffNStuff

Well, I am not out of the woods yet. It only ran for 20 seconds at idle.

Any updates on your issues?

myLEXsc400

ok, keep us posted. I'm crossing my fingers for you, because it gives me hope for my car. the car has no check engine light, but it bogs down mid range because the fueling is way to rich when its open loop. also goes for when it dies coming back to idle. when in closed loop it runs good but when open it is way too rich. also, my oil pan is leaking, and apparently you have to pull the motor out and flip it upside-down in order to seal it properly.

BuffNStuff

Did you make any changes to your O2 sensors? Are your MAF and MAP new or used?

myLEXsc400

i did not change the O2 sensors, since the OBDII scan says they are functional. Maybe that is the problem though. And the MAF and MAP were both bought used

BuffNStuff

Well I have not changed mine either, and my parts are used as well. I'll let you know if my car runs rich too

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

What afr is it in open loop when you have the problem, Do you have a video maybe you need to open up the throttle plate a little more. When it's warm and in closed loop what is the idle and afr then?

Could even be bad plug wires or a cracked coil connector or something like that can cause a miss. Sounds like something simple just gotta keep poking around till you find it.

BuffNStuff

Are the pins for the auto transmission the same for a 1997 tt and a 1997 sc300?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

its possible there are a few minor differences in the wiring, see if you get any codes or if the O/D light is blinking.

BuffNStuff

Okay....UPDATE*****

In case you dont want to go back and read through the numerous pages, I am running a USDM tt auto ecu out of a 1997 Supra, and it is wired into a 1997 auto sc300. I have a DS62 igniter, is300 coilpacks, 550cc injectors that are topfeed high impedence from Oside Tiger (supposed to be a drop in fit for sc300s), a mk4 tt MAP sensor, a supra tt MAF, and the distributor is still there and plugged in.

Well, not exactly the update I wanted to have, but here it goes. The cars runs. Seems to run smooth, however it idles at about 1100rpm, it is SUPER rich at idle at about 10.0. I can bring the RPMS up slowly, but if you give it any quick throttle, it goes super lean instantly and wants to die. He said that the cars CEL light was lit up with all kinds of codes, (I dont have a list of the codes yet, and yes I know it is important information that you need to give a good response)

3 things I noticed when I was at the shop today:

1. I think the technician at the shop moved pin 66 to 62, and I think I remember on the first page it says to not move the pin, but to run a new wire.

2. The MAP sensor was placed right next to the MAF sensor in the engine bay, with wires going into the same loom. (I am not sure if any of these wires are jumpered from the MAF to the MAP) I remember you saying to not get the power from the MAF because it is 12v and the MAP needs 5v. Correct?

3. The MAF is not plumbed into the intake properly because the shop was still waiting for the reducer. (they made use of duct tape and the current silicon hose that was there prior. Could be leaking air after the MAF sensor measures the intake air?

My Question is this; Do these symptoms line up with the POSSIBLE errors that I listed?

In my head (and I could be totally wrong) I would assume the wiring for the coilpacks, injectors, and igniter are all correct because it does actually run, and run smooth. Do you think so too?


I can not afford for them to tinker with my car anymore, so come Monday, I unfortunately have to have it towed back to my house so that I can figure it out.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

I'll do my best until Ali or Omar comes along and sets the record straight.

I have a 97 too so I've paid more attention to the 97 specific stuff even tho I'll be ditching OBD2 for a JDM ecu and not running a MAF.

1) That said, Our MAFs are the correct type already and you don't move the pin, you run a new wire to the MAP sensor.

2) MAF I think is best to go BEFORE the turbo and MAP definitely goes AFTER so it can see positive pressure so one of those is wrong.

3) I wouldn't trust a wonky setup. unmetered air can do all kinds of weird things.

in short, yeah I think with all these issues its amazing it runs.

BuffNStuff

Well, I didnt take too close of a look at the plumbing of the MAP, but I am pretty sure they didnt plumb it before the turbo. That would make absolutely no sense. haha I just noticed that the wiring went into the same loom. I called them and asked and he said that he definitely did move the pin 66 to 62, but he said that there is 5v going to the map, and not 12. So I guess that is ruled out as far as wiring?

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I'd get it in your hands and go over EVERYTHING with a voltmeter and just tidy up his work. Make sure there are no air leaks.