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Snapped 2 studs off!!!

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Old 04-23-10 | 09:52 PM
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Angry Snapped 2 studs off!!!

I went to remove the stock wheels and put on my TT's. I got to the last wheel, drivers rear, and snapped 2 studs off, breaking them in half, so i'm rolling on 3 as of right now. Napa is half a mile away

Can i just go to napa and pick up these studs and are they easy to replace? The size?

Thanks
Old 04-23-10 | 10:02 PM
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size is 12x1.5 i believe, knock out your old studs, put new ones in then tighten with torque wrench
Old 04-23-10 | 10:09 PM
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dont roll on 3 studs is not worth it catch the bus had the same problem happen to me o rielys was 3 blocks away i made it back home on a tow truck
Old 04-23-10 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Vincent123
size is 12x1.5 i believe, knock out your old studs, put new ones in then tighten with torque wrench
is it easy to knock the old ones out? I assume they screw in from the back? Do i have to remove anything to get to them?
Old 04-23-10 | 10:16 PM
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use a c clamp to press them out, knocking them out with a hammer will mess up the wheel bearing.
Old 04-23-10 | 10:17 PM
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Very easy to change. Especially if you have an air gun. Call first to make sure they have it in stock. Just order ones for the sc rear. I would also order the oem style lug nuts. And get a couple extra open end lug nuts for when you pull the new studs through.

Pretty simple procedure.
Jack up.
Release emergency brakes.
Remove complete caliper.
Remove rotor.
Hammer out the broken studs.
Pull new studs through using the open ended lug nuts and some washers or spacer in between.
And reinstall everything.

P.s. You might have to hit the rotor with a hammer or mallet to get it loose. Just don't hit the contact surface.

Last edited by SH_JZZ30; 04-23-10 at 10:21 PM.
Old 04-23-10 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LiCelsior
use a c clamp to press them out, knocking them out with a hammer will mess up the wheel bearing.
you got a point there. I've always knock them out with the hammer as I usually get it off in one shot. I've done quite a bit of this in the past and haven't tought about damaging the bearing. Thats a pretty big oversite on my part i guess. hhhmmmm I know I tried with a c-clamp in the past but there is just no room other than if you remove the whole hub apart from the knuckle.
Old 04-24-10 | 01:16 AM
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bike to napa?
Old 04-24-10 | 02:33 AM
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buy a torque wrench after you replace them.torque to spec and itll never happen again.
Old 04-24-10 | 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SH_JZZ30
Very easy to change. Especially if you have an air gun. Call first to make sure they have it in stock. Just order ones for the sc rear. I would also order the oem style lug nuts. And get a couple extra open end lug nuts for when you pull the new studs through.

Pretty simple procedure.
Jack up.
Release emergency brakes.
Remove complete caliper.
Remove rotor.
Hammer out the broken studs.
Pull new studs through using the open ended lug nuts and some washers or spacer in between.
And reinstall everything.

P.s. You might have to hit the rotor with a hammer or mallet to get it loose. Just don't hit the contact surface.
You're missing the most important part, the brake shoe needs to be partially released to allow room for inserting the new studs.
And when it comes to brake shoe, it's a pain in the butt.
I hate doing the rears.
Old 04-24-10 | 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by soulific
buy a torque wrench after you replace them.torque to spec and itll never happen again.
Seriously, people always put all this money into parts and other tools and always forget about the Torque wrench. Ballin *** wheels are no good if they fly off when you are driving
Old 04-24-10 | 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by vinh
Seriously, people always put all this money into parts and other tools and always forget about the Torque wrench. Ballin *** wheels are no good if they fly off when you are driving
and what's a good price range for a good torque wrench? 1st time removing the wheels here, since i just got her not too long ago.
Old 04-24-10 | 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jintei
You're missing the most important part, the brake shoe needs to be partially released to allow room for inserting the new studs.
And when it comes to brake shoe, it's a pain in the butt.
I hate doing the rears.


I've changed many studs in the rear of my sc and I never had to partially release the brake shoes. All I ever did was pull the ebrake down. There is enough room in there to get the stud in.

It has taken me about 15-20 minutes to change a stud and most of the time is waiting for my crappy compressor to fill up.

A torque wrench is a great investment.
Old 04-24-10 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SH_JZZ30
I've changed many studs in the rear of my sc and I never had to partially release the brake shoes. All I ever did was pull the ebrake down. There is enough room in there to get the stud in.

It has taken me about 15-20 minutes to change a stud and most of the time is waiting for my crappy compressor to fill up.

A torque wrench is a great investment.
and what's a good price range for a good torque wrench? Will any torque wrench do? 1st time removing the wheels here, since i just got her not too long ago.
Old 04-24-10 | 09:09 AM
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Any torque wrench will do as long as it works. I bought a 1/2" generic from the tool truck for $140 and these are the exact same torque wrenches as the snap on ones but doesnt have the Snap ON on it.
Check out Sears for Craftsman tools, they have decent tools with lifetime warranty.


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