evileagle

So it's finally getting hot enough here to the point where I need to get my AC fixed. When I did my 1J swap, I used the AC compressor that came with the 1J motor. I had to open up the lines and attach the lines to the newer compressor. So here are my questions:

I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere that you have to remove the oxygen in the lines before adding the freon. Is this correct?

What type of freon should I use?

I was reading something about the condensor needing replacement?

Also something about oil in the compressor?



If someone could shed some light on what I should do, I would be very appreciative.

Thanks guys!

RED95sc

iTrader: (1)

yea you want to get the system dried out professionally, and refilled so there is no air, or moisture. either air, or moisture will cause your A/C not to be as cold as possible. Some folx might think adding a lotta freon will solve it, but that can cause them to buy another compressor. use 134a freon i suggest one with dye in it.
IF your condensor is not leaking, no need to replace it, the freon in the compressor acts like oil to your motor, thats why without it, the compressor wont engage, or else the pistons in there will lock up

evileagle

awesome....great info!

So nothing else really has to be done unless there are leaks of some kind, correct?

Also I was wondering is there some safety control that doesnt allow the compressor to turn on if there is no pressure in teh system? Mine doesnt turn on when i tested it and I want to make sure everything is in good working order before I get my AC filled.

Final thing, is there any other type of freon I can use? I remember OLT saying he used some different kind that was a lot colder than 134a, but it was more pricey. Is that different freon compatible with my current stock system?

Thanks again!

RED95sc

iTrader: (1)

,

if you want, you can get a refill kit from advanced auto, pep boys etc. like i said get one with dye so if there is a leak, you can see where its leaking from. something is telling me its leaking from the same place all the other SCs are leaking from that i'ved seen so far. when you get some freon in there, check the front of your under the radiator.

keskipper

iTrader: (4)

Just replaced the compressor on my 93 SC400 myself and learned some valuable info...the compressor will not operate at 0 pressure; in fact, you should not even turn it on until up to par.

If you had the system open for any amount of time, you must replace the drier. Cost ~$20 and takes 15 mins to do. If not comfortable doing it, have the shop do it--shouldn't be more than 30 mins labor, and they will know to replace the o-rings and put a small amount of oil on the prior to tightening down. Also, some things I read said to put 1/2 the compressor oil required for the system in the drier, then add the other 1/2 through the low pressure side...the place I went to just put it in prior to the R134a after passing the leak test. So, yes, you do need oil.

Mine said ~5oz., not sure if yours is the same, they put in 3oz in case there was any left in the system as it's better to under fill a little than overfill at all on oil. If you have a R134a system, I read you can not use R12 (the "colder" freon) as the chlorine in it breaks down the oil and will ruin the compressor or other system components (or so I read). Plus, it's very expensive comparatively (something like 3x-4x more) for the few degrees of extra cooling.

Take it to an a/c shop and have them vacuum/leak test (should be about $70 depending on how much they charge there, some places here in FL were cheaper...and ask if a system flush is included with the service, if so - all the better). IF it passes, they should add the proper amounts of oil, then R134a, then stick a thermometer in the center air vent and check how cold the air is...

Some a/c techs said do not use the stuff in the can from auto parts stores unless you know what you are doing. Too much R134a = bad news. If the system was open for any time, vacuum it down first - this is why I say take it to a shop. Less than $100 now, or $700 - $1,000 later...

Again, this is all what I have read over the last week. If anyone knows different, please correct me.

Hope this helps...

willhickey

iTrader: (1)

yeah the vacuum is important but i had my lines unhooked for almost a year while i rebuilt my engine and the compressor out and i didnt replace the drier i just vacuumed it for 2 hours instead of 15minutes which is what the normal place does it for...., the txv ac is cool because it has the sight - glass you can look through to see if its low on freon .. way better than fixed-orifice (well at least cooler haha)

willhickey

iTrader: (1)

and also what year 1j compressor is it r-12 fitting etc? if so do the retrofit for the high and low side lines and take off the compressor and drain the oil ( after you vacuum out the system) its mineral oil r-12 and pag oil r-134 and also manufacturers have different viscocity rating for the pag oil so make sure you get the right one. good luck man

evileagle

Thanks a lot guys for the info. I ended up taking it to a ac shop. They vacuuumed and added 134a since that's what my system is. It works fine but the guys there were worried cause there is no ac fan and pressure was running around 260 at idle. Maybe because I have a front mount its restricting airflow? I Have a coumple spal fans that I'm probably going to mount to help airflow and hopefully bring down pressure a bit.

Akito san

how much did they charge you total? were you able to bring that pressure lower??

I need to do mine i have sc300 the owner i got it from had the compressor disconnected for some reason.

evileagle

85 total including 1.9 lbs of freon.

i haven't had a chance to install the fan yet but as soon as i do, i will post an update...