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which subwoofer would you choose?

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Old 05-15-10, 11:45 PM
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schef300
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Default which subwoofer would you choose?

I am goin for a 10in to replace the one in the stock location.

right now its between thehttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_21254_Pioneer_Premier_TS-SW1001S4.aspx

or the kickerhttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19490_Kicker_07CVT102.aspx

Please help me chose. I love good sharp punchy base. and if you know a good brand that is in the price range of 200 give me some ideas.

No offense but im looking for opinions from audiophiles.
Old 05-16-10, 12:01 AM
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the3rd
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Kicker is the better brand out of the two. For sub $200 take a look at Rockford also.
Old 05-16-10, 02:48 AM
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BIGCTY
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Originally Posted by schef300
I am goin for a 10in to replace the one in the stock location.

right now its between thehttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_21254_Pioneer_Premier_TS-SW1001S4.aspx

or the kickerhttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19490_Kicker_07CVT102.aspx

Please help me chose. I love good sharp punchy base. and if you know a good brand that is in the price range of 200 give me some ideas.

No offense but im looking for opinions from audiophiles.
Here are your links, I'm too lazy to do all that copy/pasting.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...-SW1001S4.aspx

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._07CVT102.aspx

I'd get a JL audio W3, but I guess that isnt shallow mount so of those two I'd get the kicker. Not impressed by either though.
Old 05-16-10, 06:59 AM
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evileagle
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Originally Posted by schef300
I am goin for a 10in to replace the one in the stock location.

right now its between thehttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_21254_Pioneer_Premier_TS-SW1001S4.aspx

or the kickerhttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19490_Kicker_07CVT102.aspx

Please help me chose. I love good sharp punchy base. and if you know a good brand that is in the price range of 200 give me some ideas.

No offense but im looking for opinions from audiophiles.

To use a sub in the stock location it must be an infinite baffle design, which allows for a huge box (your trunk) or a lot of airspace. When I was shopping for a sub a while back i remember 3 companies is what it came down to for me......image dynamics (http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/), elemental designs (http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_21) and JL audio with their marine sub woofer. Most marine woofers are IB and work for our deck lid applications. What problem you will be running into is any decent sub woofer you will find is going to have a larger magnet and have clearance issues with the gas tank. You can fix this by spacing it up with a MDF ring or something, but that takes custom work and I don't know your level of expertise..

I got tired of trying to find something decent that would fit in the stock location so I ended up saying screw it and went with a JL 12w7 and made my own fiberglass enclosure in the trunk...














Hope this helps...
Old 05-16-10, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by evileagle
I got tired of trying to find something decent that would fit in the stock location so I ended up saying screw it and went with a JL 12w7 and made my own fiberglass enclosure in the trunk...
Hope this helps...
It would help a WHOLE lot more if you'd make and market a few of them
Old 05-16-10, 08:41 AM
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JL 10W1v2-4

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15

fits and sounds great.
Old 05-16-10, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGCTY
It would help a WHOLE lot more if you'd make and market a few of them
I agree. That looks sweet!
Old 05-16-10, 01:40 PM
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Vincent123
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Originally Posted by keskipper
it clears your tank without using a mdf spacer or what not?
Old 05-16-10, 01:45 PM
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I swapped it with the factory sub, used same ring, and it clears the gas tank by about .25" - hooked up an aftermarket 300w two channel amp (bridged) with pioneer head unit. Sounds really nice.
Old 05-16-10, 03:40 PM
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evileagle
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Originally Posted by keskipper
I swapped it with the factory sub, used same ring, and it clears the gas tank by about .25" - hooked up an aftermarket 300w two channel amp (bridged) with pioneer head unit. Sounds really nice.
Don't be surprised if that doesn't blow in the near future. That series sub is not designed for such a huge enclosure as the suspension is no where near stiff enough. IB subs generally have a stiffer suspension to compensate for such large volume enclosures which tend to make your sub move too much/excess excursion.

Like i said, you can go with JL's 10" Marine line sub woofers if you want the JL product. Its designed exactly for what we have....
Old 05-16-10, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by evileagle
To use a sub in the stock location it must be an infinite baffle design, which allows for a huge box (your trunk) or a lot of airspace. When I was shopping for a sub a while back i remember 3 companies is what it came down to for me......image dynamics (http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/), elemental designs (http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_21) and JL audio with their marine sub woofer. Most marine woofers are IB and work for our deck lid applications. What problem you will be running into is any decent sub woofer you will find is going to have a larger magnet and have clearance issues with the gas tank. You can fix this by spacing it up with a MDF ring or something, but that takes custom work and I don't know your level of expertise..

I got tired of trying to find something decent that would fit in the stock location so I ended up saying screw it and went with a JL 12w7 and made my own fiberglass enclosure in the trunk...


Hope this helps...
is the issue the physical connection to the deck for reason going with a ib subwoofer ? I've been out the audio game for a while so correct me if I'm wrong . I'm not getting the connection here. A subwoofer suspension is only going to move so many mm given it's xmax. For a low budget sub I don't see it blowing out like many have suggested here.
Old 05-16-10, 07:34 PM
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I'm going to try the DLS OA10. Heard some good things about it.

I bought the Pioneer Sub you mentioned in your first post TC and it does not fit. The weird shape of the magnet makes it impossible to fit in the stock enclosure unless you enlarge the metal sub hole in the rear deck. I was thinking of enlarging the sub hole and building a bracket for the sub but it would have been a lot of work for nothing. Don't buy it, it doesn't fit the magnet stays fat all the way down unlike traditional subs that taper in.

Get a Kicker or you can try the DLS OA10 like me. I'll let you know how it goes.
Old 05-16-10, 09:50 PM
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miraluna
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+1 Pioneer Premier
Old 05-16-10, 10:19 PM
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You obviously didn't read Clean400's post.

Originally Posted by miraluna
+1 Pioneer Premier
Old 05-17-10, 12:21 AM
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evileagle
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Originally Posted by the3rd
is the issue the physical connection to the deck for reason going with a ib subwoofer ? I've been out the audio game for a while so correct me if I'm wrong . I'm not getting the connection here. A subwoofer suspension is only going to move so many mm given it's xmax. For a low budget sub I don't see it blowing out like many have suggested here.
The reason for the IB has nothing to do with the physical connection. By looking at an IB sub and a standard sub, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. You get an IB sub because normal subs aren't meant to have sealed enclosures that are like 30^ft (wild guess as to what size the trunk really is). Our trunk since its sealed from the inside compartment is acting as en enclosure. Regular subs need airspace of anywhere from 0.6 ft^ to 2.0ft^. Our trunks are like 25ft^ - 30 ft^. This is why you get an IB sub which is meant to work with super large enclosures like the size of our trunk.

Hope this helps...


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