PERRYinLA

Mistical, as someone who shares your curiosity on how it could be done without some sort of compromise, and who finally gave up on trying to do the same thing after several hours of staring at that rear deck/gas tank area, all I've got to say is:
"Now THIS I gotta see......"

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

I'm thinking the only way to do it is to cut the back deck and go with (2) 10's instead. I think an enclosure can be built that would straddle the fuel pump pickup. I've also spent many long hours staring at that gap. I think under the factory deck cover you can come up about 1 1/2 inches. That and cutting the deck should give a person about 5 1/2 inches of depth on each side of the pickup. Enclosure space is going to be small though. A couple of JL Audio 10W3's will probably work. If not, I'm replacing my Pioneer free-air with a Dynaudio 10. SOMEBODY out there has got to have done this!!!!!! Come on guys POST!!!! Oh, I'm running the JL 500/5. Great amp on the Utopias up front and back. Selling My Nak CD-45z if anyone is interested.

Shane

pcmw

Okay,

So I am getting ready to play this stereo in a shoebox game.

Front Door speakers
QM 215.61Q 5.25" 2-Way Q Series Separate Components

However, the subs are another issue.

I may try the dual 10" subs. I want to cut from the 4" hole to the amplifier hole on each side. Round those out to 8-9" and then create an ulphostered board across the entire back deck to sandwich some dynamat underneath to the metal shelf. Finally.I plan on using some type of windsong cloth that is audio permeable to flush out the subwoofer frames.

Then, underneath the subs.... I will reinforce the factory gas tank/trunk wall with 1/2 mdf and dynamat. Sealing off as much area as possible from air leaks. Finally stuffing the entire area with polyfill or foam shreads to firm up the cone response.



So....anyone have any input on this project? I want to hear why this may not work? Thanks

MW

mjames08

not that you could fit this sub in the factory hole but.. has anyone heard the JL w7 series? It is seriously like 3 w6's in ONE sub. Looking to save a little space, but want the sound of 3 JL 10w6's? Get one 10w7... They're a little pricey, but definately worth it for the bass enthusiast.. I put a 10ib4 in the stock position and I love how it sounds.. Replaced the whole car with stock size JL xr's also.. I was looking for sound quality not big bass, and I am amazed how clean the system sounds..

mjames08

1" fit.. but I didn't install them, a shop did so I don't know if they had to wrestle them in or what..

Lex Luthor

pcmw, sounds like a good plan, but you'll still be shy on airspace I think, but there's a couple of options. Like SSmith said, you could try a couple of W3's, or Blaupunkt just came out with a flat panel woofer, or DEI makes a sub with very very small airspace requirements, but either way I don't think you'll have enough room to be using polyfill, as that would reduce the effective airspace available to the subs, and it'll be real tight as it is. Shane, i'm not sure you could get the magnet structures on the Dyn's to clear the tank, have you taken any measurements to see if you'd need to mount the subs at some point above the oe rear deck to get the subs to fit depth-wise? Building an enclosure in there is gonna be a ******, I think it may be easier to just leave the sub out as a port, and build a 'glass enclosure that didn't eat up too much space, like in the corner(s), a la marcman18. I'd love to see you get it to work though, that would leave the entire trunk area unmolested, gotta have room for those golf clubs (or bodies in manaray's case)......
- Jon

pcmw

Jon,

I would thinks that the area left behind and around the tank is near 2cuft in total. The polyfill would be aid the subwoofer in control because of the lack of a truly sealed enclosure. It also helps to deaden the ambiant noise of the metal shell of the trunk.

If I do this, I will try using a high-end subwoofer for the result I want. JL's are great, the kicker solobaric is nice, or maybe even the trusty Boston Pro.

Friends of mine suggested we take out the rear glass before starting. Hmm...

MW

Lex Luthor

pcmw, just want to clarify for you, when you refer to 'the lack of a truly sealed enclosure,' which design do you intend to build? If it's not sealed anyway, stick with an infinite baffle configuration, since you'll still have some issues with controlling the cone/overexcursion, but i'm no more of a fan of ported enclosures than of free-air. If it were me, i'd be looking to build a sealed enclosure, but airspace will still be tight, but go nuts with the polyfill if you think it'll help more than the lost airspace would have. Oh, and the rear shelf doesn't produce ambient noise, you're thinking of resonant noise. Yanking the rear window is definitely where I draw the line when doing a multimedia install....
- LL

pcmw

Hmm,

If I mount the 10's to the rear deck, I would need to use the cavity in and around the gas tank for the 'enclosure'. However, I can only really seal that area off about 85% complete. The trunk supports and sides are impossible to truly seal.

On the speaker, I will stick with a non-Infinite Baffle design for already stated reasons. They sound horrible. I want a competition grade sound when it is done. Pulling the rear window is not that big of a deal. I can put it back like stock.

The goal of this system is to end up with 6 speakers that fit well, sound excellent and cannot be seen at all. I will try to stay under 400watts but not sure yet.

I appreciate your input.

MW

London Bill

The depth issue under the rear deck prevents fitting "big" bass drivers, the shape of the rear deck and fittings makes it hard (impossible - almost) to seal any enclosure under the sub.

So how about this for a small sealed enclosure;



This would be made up of 10" or possibly 12" thick wall plastic pipe, the sub is mounted in the top of the tube and the sub chamber hangs underneath, the sub magnet would almost touch the bottom of the chamber so fibre-fill would be required to prevent standing waves.

I could not use this design as my amps are mounted in the space above the fuel tank

pcmw

Okay,

Nice drawing LondonBill!!

I just took apart the rear end of the car.

After working in car audio for 7 years in the past, I invited 3 custom install guys over to take a look. We agreed that the back deck is pretty tough. The issue one brought up was that the subwoofer mounted behind a passangers head will probably hurt. LOL. Another one pointed out that using the stock location would not provide a tight and substantial sound. None of them wanted to use an infinite baffle.

My needs were simple.
Need the spare.
Need tight solid bass.
Need room for two golf bags.
Want a stock look.
Want as little drama as possible. (no heavy construction)

So we decided to do this....

Remove rear speakers.
Relocate Spare to standing position against gas tank.
Fiberglass a box to fill the remaining trunk space flush with the existing trunk bottom.
Mount a single 12" Solobaric in the box.
Make a custom cover for the spare.

Now I have a spare (which will be pulled out most of the time)leaving the stock cover over the gap. They all agree that this will be more than enough bass. Both golf bags will fit with or without the spare. With the spare out it will look stock. With the spare in, it will look factory with the cover.

I will try to document the build.

MW

Dew23

iTrader: (1)

I have a kicker 10 in the stock location and like the idea of using thr spare are one problem with that is if you have tt brake sthe stock spare does not fit ,and it does barley fits lay flatso i await your pics so i can do more stuff to my car.

Dave

BLK13X

I've got a few audio system parts I'm getting between next week to the end of the month, namely being:
- New head unit (Pioneer DEH-P9350) as my head unit is really ****ing up hard
- Weconic amplifier (75WRMSx4ch)
- Pioneer TS-W304C 12" subwoofer, planning to install it like PERRYinLA's subwoofer install.

What I'm really worried about is getting the box to sit flush in the trunk over on the RIGHT side of the boot/trunk, as the tools etc. in the JDM Soarer are on the left (dunno about the SC4's).

PERRYinLA, was it hard to work with the fibreglass? I was thinking about it but trying to get the whole area masked off and f'glassed seems doomy...

PERRYinLA

JoRuLE, fiberglassing was uncharted territory for me until I tackled my woofer box, so I did learn a lot as I was doing it. But almost everything you need to know is on my sounddomain web page (http://members.sounddomain.com/perryinla), and the rest you can pick up from the instructions on the fiberglass kit, or from the other web pages that my page links to. There's even a few videos you can buy for $15 showing you the entire process. And of course, both CL and sounddomain members are very helpful with answering any questions you may have during your project.

It is messy and time-consuming, but fiberglassing is the only way to get the results you need- a strong enclosure that curves and conforms to the inner fender, maximizing your woof enclosure space while minimizing its intrusion into the trunk compartment. Also, once my box is covered with matching carpet, it is about as stealth as you can get.

Speaking of the trunk, here's a pic of my golf clubs in the SC trunk, MW, so I kept the stock look, the spare, and the only "drama" is when I crank up the volume!

pcmw

HAHAH,

Nice Perry....very nice...

However, I have longer clubs than you do. I need every inch of trunk that is there now.

Also, I think the spare area is a better deal because of all the wasted foam space that is down there. I will rarely have the spare in the car. I only need it on long trips.