Din

What sizes and brand do you have in the front and rear?

mjames08

I went with the same stock size but used JL Audios for every speaker. I have the comp xr series compnents up front and vr's in the back. For the sub I am using a 10IB4. All of this is running off of an Alpine V12 and Eclipse Av5101 + their in-dash 6 disk changer. Sounds amazing!

Din

your sub how big is the box?

I plan on putting a 6.5 in the front and a 5.25 in the rear this should fit right?

In the factory tweeter location is it possible to mount an after market tweeter in there?

lex400sc

I'm using Boston Acoustics Proseries 6.5s front and rear and the stock Pioneer sub. The Bostons are components, the only way to go. I used to have dual JL W-3 12"s in a 6cu/ft box, but I was sick of not having any trunk space so I just ran the stock sub off a 500-watt mono amp (JL 500/1).




The 10IB4 is an infinite baffle woofer, there is no box. It's the same design as the stock woofer. It mounts directly onto the rear deck and uses the entire trunk space. 6.5"s will fit in the front with some modification. 5.25"s will fit the rear no problem. Why not just use four 6.5"s all around? You know 6-6.5-inches is the optimal midrange cone size? You can fit 1-inch tweeters in the stock tweeter grilles and punch holes in the rear dash for the rears. Here's a pic of what I did...

Din

Well I already have the 6.5 set and need to get another set, I guess Ill get another 6.5 set. I wasnt thinking about putting and tweeters in the rear untill I saw your pic. I was thinking of jsut getting a 2way speaker in the rear. I want to make it look as stock as possible.

About the sub how does it sound? I already have to 2 12in JLs and really dont want to get rid of them, but may have to since the trunk space is so small.

Manaray

Hey, is the 10IB4 still available?

lex400sc

In truth the 10-inch Pioneer free-air----with a 2.5-inch tear in the surround----sounds better than my JL 12"s. This goes against all logic since a sealed enclosure, a larger cone, and a long-throw woofer are all supposed to sound better than a free-air. But my feeling is that there is insufficient air space for my 12"s to operate normally. Thus they just rattle the hell out of everything and create all sorts of acoustic anomolies and cancellations. The 12"s of course hit waaaay harder and have incredible power handling, but the 10 is much cleaner sounding at lower volumes (even with the tear).

The Boston components come with multiple mounting options. One of which includes a bridge piece where you can mount the tweeter right over the midrange cone in a parallel or angled position (all are flush). The black grilles on the tweeters are removeable and paintable to match the off-white factory grilles. I didn't bother because my windows got tinted to 5% limo like the next week so you can't even see the drivers. There's always the picture below too...


(sorry i couldn't find the damn picture )

lex400sc

I believe so. Our Electronics Vendor (his name escapes me at the moment) carries them for a pretty good price. I'm going to get a 12IB4 which will probably hit lower frequencies (at least 20Hz), but I need to get off my lazy *** and compare dimensions on the car and the woofer.

Lex Luthor

manny, the IB4 is still available, lex400sc, good luck fitting a twelve in that rear deck. My system was designed to preserve the trunk space, unfortunately it took about a month of install time to lay everything out in a way that wouldn't kill storage, but it was worth it.

mjames08

my sub is mounted in the factory 10" position.. no boxs, its an infinite baffle sub

Manaray

Thanks for the info on the IB4's everyone!

Lex Luthor, I'm looking to do a setup like yours (how it's layed out)...do you have any photos during the install of the amp rack? I am debating on where to mount it to since I do want some access to that area (for the shocks and STB) but I also want a STURDY amp rack...no mickey mouse *****!

I think I'm going to use the JL Audio 500/1 amp...or the Precision Power one (5800 I think)...dunno...

Lex400SC - Hey, I finally got around to removing my door panel (to get my wood piece back in!) and boy, it's friggin' easy! But I noticed a lot of my plastic in there is broken (the tabs and such)...at any rate, I was looking at the "box" that the 4" speaker is attached too, how would I go about putting a set of 5.25" in there? Do I need so build something else to replace that thing or do I just take it out and let it use the entire door as the baffle? I'm dazed and confused...

Lex Luthor

You can enlarge the opening to fit a larger spkr, or do it the right way (which I know for you is the only way) and replace the outer section of the baffle with an MDF baffle, 'SSmith' can give you specific instructions if you need, you can go to 5.25" or 6.5". I do have photos of my install, i'll scan them in and post them later today for you bro, everything is very sturdy, yet lightweight, each component was carefully designed and weighed, and everything is completely press-fit, not a single screw in there, took an ungodly amount of time to get it just right, but it's all easily removeable for track use, the amps, PS2, changer, distribution, everything, plus I recently stealth-mounted a digital signal processor in the glovebox, upholstered to match. I'm still in the middle of doing the spkrs, i'll never finish, gotta fly to Chicago in a couple days for business.

1BomexLex

alpine 5 1/4 in the front
and 6 1/2 in the rear

Manaray

Lex Luthor - Thanks for the info...any scans would be helpful...I'm going to hit up my stereo shop again and see what they can do...I'll take your post with me....

Lex Luthor

Glad to oblige brother, i'll post as many as I can before my girl has dinner ready, not sure which ones you wanted but i'll try to give an assortment. Here's the basic layout for the front and rear pieces of the amp rack, I made an oval opening and fitted it with clear Plexi and Purple neon from behind, the front and rear pieces press-fit together, to keep weight down I made the rear piece as small as possible, just big enough for the amps and the neon tubes, wheras the front piece runs the entire width of the trunk and press-fits against the two flush-mount side panels with the CD chgr, PS2, and RF Connecting Punch distribution. The two amps, both bridged into a 4-ohm mono load, tested to produce exactly 1579 watts, but they are configured to run at a less-taxing impedance. Flush mounting the side panels, so as to preserve all the trunk space, was a ******, there really isn't room in there, so unless you want the punishment, i'd build them out just a little, but it obviously depends on what equipment you're putting back there. I'll be looking to build Luthor v2.0 soon, wait 'till you see what I do with that one, can you say high tech composite quick-disconnect amp and sub enclosures? Anyway, here's your pics big Mike....

- JonJon